Hi, I come here to learn and whilst I may not fully understand everything I get a pretty solid gist of what is going on. The only thing I am completely sure of is that I do not know everything and that generally there is more than one way to achieve a goal. Healthy debate on the best way to achieve something is, for me, fantastic. I learn a lot from this. Thanks for all you effort with this Kriss and keep up the good work 👍.
Ahh, many thanks for the explanation! I was definitely under the mistaken impression that the static converter was outputting three phase. Now I understand why the motor is there. For the record you could run everything off a VFD (just set it to a fixed 50Hz output) but to be honest, I'd prefer the motor for two reasons. One is that those motors are pretty forgiving, and will handle quite substantial overloads for brief moments without much complaint. But a VFD will trip or limit the output current as soon as you go near its peak rating. Also, the motor will allow you to add a flywheel to better handle peaks, whereas a VFD is limited to whatever the peak rating is on the label when you bought it. So although the motor might be old school, it's still probably the most flexible option and best value for money.
Hi Kris, as with all of your videos this is well explained and instuctional. As an electrical and electronics engineer of 40 years I agree completely. Sometimes the old way are the most reliable and best. You have a hard environment and need things that will keep on working. This set up will. Looking the extension lead will help but the replacement cost money and time. Well done and Happy Christmas to you all.
Kris, get a 16mm cable to the workshop asap, overkill, but way safer than 40A over a 1.5mm. Don't risk fire or shock, electric is dangerous, you can't see or smell it. Retired sparky here, be safe, dig a tench, bury an armoured 16mm and cut some of the worry out. 10mm would do it but limit the volt drop, go way bigger than you need ;)
I’m no sparky, but doesn’t the voltage make a difference!? Just an idea,if you could crank up the voltage on the cable and maybe you can get away whit a thinner cable.. like put some of your “electrical monster” (what ever it is :) )parts in your ched am drag one or too extra wire (too or three phase to the workshop. Perhaps that is something that can work? Sorry for my English is not that good.. have followed you senses you lay down the tires for the round house! Love your work!
A bit of a noob here, but why not move the converter to the source, i.e. your shed next to the batteries, and get the 3 phases from there to the workshop through the trench? Same power, bit higher voltage, 3 lines. And less noise in the shop.
This explanation was far more elegant than the first go round. Generally speaking and to my understanding , three-phase power is designed to assure consistently higher voltages over the beginning of a work cycle. You've done well to recognize what's necessary to get the job done! By the way...with the addition of a small Crooke ' s tube you might have the means to develop a side hustle taking X rays! Cheers to your ingenuity!
When I saw yesterdays video I didnt have a clue what you was doing (plumber not an electrician) but now I have more of an understanding it's quite a clever way of getting three-phase. I keep that idea in mind when I'm doing my off grid workshop. Thanks for the update much appreciated.
Nice Job ! Been running one for 20 years here in the states. 3 phase equipment is so much better and less money. Good on you for showing it to more people. Can't wait to see what you build !
Kris - as usual - "out of the box" problem solving... I don't fully understand some of this stuff but I'm smart enough to shut up and follow your explanations. I love the way you "work around" the problems and end up with a solution - you never disappoint me!
Not hard to understand people. We had a rotary phase converter in our stage lighting workshop in Denver. Those guys told me that by spinning it, it created a "phantom phase" somehow making two into three. I won't even begin to speculate how it works but I've used it many many times to run our three phases lighting distro boxes so I could test entire lighting rigs right in the shop socapex cables and all. I love your videos and I am gonna attempt to watch them all!!! Very cool man!
Well I did a bit of electrical engineering I high school and all you rings a little bell. Seems to me you know exactly what you are doing. Keep up the great work.
We had a rotary phase converter to run the majority of our wine equipment. It was about 20 years old and one leg started to fail. We ended up swapping it out for a larger digital unit and it works just as nice, but the start up time on the digital units takes forever. Looking good though!
I just watch because you are adorable in that bobble hat too..😄😄🤟🏽actually your passion and attempts to make the project work thru all the difficulties has inspired. First watch each day.
An excellent explanation on how a rotary 3 phase works. At least it makes sense to me now why you have a motor being used for what appeared to be nothing. Now I know it’s a phase generator. Be careful though using your DeWalt to spin the cutter head up to break the static inertia. You are turning it by a bolt that could loosen a bit each time you start it that way. Although with the actual rotation direction I wouldn’t be surprised that that bolt is a left hand thread in the first place.
I'm the ultimate authority on this stuff. I did two years of electrical engineering at varsity before I dropped out. Clearly, what you need is a chocolate milkshake maker providing both the startup momentum AND the tea break refreshments. You KNOW I'm right.
Strawberry shakes are better unless it’s St. Patrick’s Day then you have to go with a green shake. No wonder people are cornfewsed with cawmints about chocolate, fudge and caramel shakes. At least no one said vanilla. They won’t work at all. 😉😉
Good explanation on how the 2nd and the 3rd phase are generated. Really interesting and clever way to achieve 3 phase. The star delta seems a good way to go for off grid use, perhaps with a fly wheel as well.
I don't understand this. But, you have come so far in learning patience with the ignorant and the opinionated that you are a joy to listen to. Love you man, take it handy!
Fantastic setup. I agree with you the converter with the motor to get true clean 3x120' phase is the way to go. Amazing pieces of machinery, I remember working with these type of tool amazingly powerful, amazingly dangerous you have to have a lot of respect for these machines! I get it you get a "proof of concept" and then you improve performance and safety, I did a comment with some 'suggestions' a few days ago and seeing how you go about things I would remove that particular comment (if I could find it!). Cheers, a
I was watching that drill winding up the machine and thought, I hope that is spinning the right way or this is going to be painful. 😆 Keep up the good work Kris 👍
I have full confidence that you know what you're doing ... just look at your accomplishments. When others said it wouldn't work ... It did, you proved them wrong.
Wow, hope you don’t regret opening this can of worms.... it seems some of the RU-vid community know better without even watching or listening. Keep it up man, don’t sweat the difficult ones
I’m not any sort of scientist but if you had come to me and said you could get a machine of that size and power requirement running in an off-grid situation, I would have bet you $100 that it was not possible. Now I’ve seen it in action and I must say, “well done”. 😎👍👏
Hi Kris thanks for clearing that up I didn't comment on the last video because I didn't really understand what you were talking about but now you have filled in the blanks.
Maybe some people don't know at all what a phase is. You could have mentioned that the 2th phase ( from the capacity device ) is 90° in time off from the feeding phase. And that with (real) 3 phase each phase is 120° off from the other.
Are you sure it's 90° out of phase? Those two phases end up as part of the three phase on the output (the motor only generates the third phase) so it'd have to be 120° out of phase otherwise the motor wouldn't spin properly. Unless I'm missing something?
@@Berkeloid0 Capacitors can't make another phasing other than 90°. It al depends on what the motor does. I suppose the final 3 phases has nothing to see with the initial 2 and are generated by 3 different windings within the motor. The initial 2 are only needed to let the motor turn. We should ask for a detailed view on the motor connections to be sure
@@bartdepauw1156 I think we'd need a detailed view of the motor connections because the way I understood it, the PC60, the motor, and the output are all effectively in parallel. So the output is directly connected to both the motor and the PC60. I didn't realise a capacitor always phase shifted by 90°, so now I am curious how this ends up as the required 120° for the three phase output. Obviously there's something I'm missing and I'm curious to find out what it might be.
@@bartdepauw1156 He'll probably start wishing he never mentioned the three phase stuff with all the questions it has generated! Kris if you're reading this, we're all just really interested in how you've done it, we're not trying to nitpick, honestly! :-)
I know you get annoyed by the dumb/ill informed comments sometimes, but having to explain things in lay terms like the start of this video is a massive help! I'm not electronically savvy and was looking for exactly that explanation. Keep addressing the doubters please!
old school is the easiest to maintain. The flywheel ideal and a larger power cord will likely do it. I like the way you think. You are a very skilled craftsman by the way.
Thanks! I'm not familiar with 3-phase, having read about it a little but not a lot, and your explanation here made your work in the previous video all make sense to me.
A star delta would be a good idea and won't cost you as much as buying an aditional starter motor. Plus are you wiring the contactor correctly so it locks in and stays locked and you're wiring the "stop" (N/C) momentry button through the contactor loopback?
I'd probably start with the flywheel approach myself as it would work for every tool. Machining a small radius one out of plate steel shouldn't be too difficult? These videos are interesting!
I think im going to do that as it cant hurt and will defiantly help a bit, just have to make sure it isnt to big otherwise that will be a pain to get going.
@@KrisHarbour If you can figure out the approximate moment of inertia of the lathe that would be a good guide. The static converter was able to get that going, so it should be able to spin the same inertia as a flywheel. Weigh the rotating part of the lathe, multiply by its radius squared, then work out your flywheel mass and dimensions to match.
@@KrisHarbour Hello Kris. Can you add in your next video on this some details on the wiring from feed to 3phase. We would also like to know the type of the red device ( as we are wondering if this is only capacitance or also active electronic phase shifting.) PS : nice setup !
If you can find a good sized 3ph pedestal grinder they work good for adding inertia to your system. Remember the rotary phase converter does not need to be a single motor. Edit: You just want somthing with a low free spinning current draw.
I think it was more misunderstanding rather than not understanding. I now get what you are doing, a small diagram along with your first explanation may well of helped. The planer looks a useful piece of kit.
Both solutions should be workable Kris. Your battery drill is essentially a pony motor which pre-date star delta starters. But for sure put in a decent feed cable. Good luck!
Hey Stuart, Hope you are well, I took the motor out and check the data plate. its a duel voltage 240 -400 and is wired in star for the 400. Am i right in thinking that the star delta switch wont work as it is already in star.?
@@KrisHarbour Hi Kris, very well thanks looking forward to Christmas! - your right if it is already wired in Star then a star-delta starter will have little effect you have two options as I see it: 1. Get a good supply to the workshop to reduce voltage drop - this might be the only thing required! 2. Explore the pony motor option - If I was doing it I would use a capacitor start single phase motor - you could strip the capacitor out and run it on two of your three phases, mechanically connect it to the planer drum - when it reaches critical speed the centrifugugal switch will operate which you could use to switch a set of contactors to change over from pony motor to the three-phase supply. I'm guessing you would need to employ some sort of clutch to disengage the pony motor once the planer is running. Hope that makes sense.
@@KrisHarbour re set the motor to run on 240 votes . & the switch will start the system less load my lath is 240 , & it runs of it original switching .
old school way to go this has put the light bulb on for me thanks been messing about with static and VFD what a pain as got a old bridgeport coolant pump and table feed this is perfect, thanks even this wiring is at my limits love the life style
Kris. With making you a cord with a proper 240or 260 volt house power receptacle/plug in ,& with running your supply power from your off grid with a 10/2 residential house wire it should help your load loss a lot . Then with a flywheel on your generator it should run that . It would still chug down your planner . But it should work . You’re losing so much load on that small supply wire /yellow wire . I know they are difference in wire gages in UK than in America. I think your residential stuff is smaller than our as far as what’s standard. But you gotta have a solid core copper wire. Not the braided that’s in the yellow extension cord I bet your load resistants in startup is more than 20.% in that smaller & braided wire running it as far as you are . You’re losing that much still after startup and constantly. A Solid core copper 10/2 house wire can carry 40 amp well at 300 feet around/100 meters
What's the difference between solid core and flexible regarding current carrying capacity? I do a bit of welding and car audio and use flexible obviously, what losses am I experiencing? It's a shame the US got tricked in to using 110v, pretty sneaky move to keep the dollars rolling in for copper mining.
Good update. Thanks for modifying the planer by using a battery drill. You said this planer would suffice when run at 2/3 power. At the end of the day I think you are in love with that big steel planer bed.
When i left school i worked in a boat yard. this big old heave tools were what i learnt on so i was spoiled. Now im excited to be back working with them again and if i can get it run at full power all the better :)
@@KrisHarbour yep, it will be interesting & I mean genuinely interesting to see how the off grid setup copes when the workshop is fully up and running. You will need to well organised so these big machines are running for the least amount of time. Start up once are get those big jobs done. All very interesting.👍
I don't understand a thing you said. I've been by passing this video but I'm so tired of the quarantine and I've missed hearing you , so I watched it. Lol. Enjoyed it, whatever it was.
You can use more than one motor of different type of power after a VFD. You have to add the currents or watts from the motors to define what type of VFD you would need. This is commonly done in industrial equipment, at least we have done it in many projects. You would need a single VFD for every motor if you would change the speed of them separately for example. Then one little tip, you should install a thermal protection after your relais to protect the motor and with the type of thermal protection for that relais you can't use a VFD. The contacts wil heat up by the carriage frequency of the VFD and trigger the protection..
What is the HP of the grey motor you’re using in the converter? I think most of your starting issues are down to that motor being too small relative to the 2.2kw load motor. Its unclear whether adding inertia (flywheel) to the idler improves performance, as the rotor needs to slip to accommodate a load and adding inertia to it inhibits slip (deceleration of the rotor). Increasing the idler size (or connecting multiple idlers together in parallel) is however a sure way to improve the starting capabilities of a phase converter (3 times or larger than your load motor is a good rule). If you have access to an additional 3 phase motor, wire it together with your current one, starting your current idler using your Clarke, and then the second motor, and then attempt to start your jointer. I think you will see a marked improvement. If you can find a cheap 10 hp 3 phase motor that would be great too, although you will need to mechanically spin it up to speed before energising it as starting a 10 HP motor on single phase is a job in itself. The transformer inside the Clarke could also be hampering things by being undersized, and unable to deliver the starting currents required and causing voltage drop on start-up. Replacing the Clarke altogether with a 5kVA or larger (or multiple identical 3 kVA/2 kVA ones in parallel) 230V to 400V transformer might be a good idea. Right now I’m trying to build a phase converter by using a step up transformer and an idler motor to get 400V 3 phase. I’ve got a 1.5 kVA single phase 400V to 230V transformer that I basically got for free to build a small experimental one and see if I can have a converter that runs something like a 1 HP 400V motor successfully. If I’m satisfied I will scale up using a larger transformer, or possibly putting a 3 phase transformer on the output of the idler. The guys in the US don’t have to mess with any of this. They have 240V 3 phase there and most motors are dual voltage, so they can use simple phase converters without any transformers.
Instead of using a Hand Drill to spin the motor, set up a Squirrel Cage and get a large Rat. Have the Rat run on the wheel for bits of cheese, then you can flip the switch, easy peasy, japaneasy.
Our 3 phase is 415 volts so we need to feed our rat peanut butter or he can only give us 380 volts ,we tried a real squirrel but he caught his tail in the cage and sprained his ankle.
I run similar equipment with single phase and have been through a few of the options. I have run digital inverters with two motor planers and it works fine but you need so much spare capacity it gets very expensive. The secondary motor will switch ok as long as the primary is running - it prevents the shock loading the digitals are so bad at. Ideally 4kw minimum for a 2.2kw main drive. The cheap chinese units have made this more economic and they are very efficient with lovely features like auto brake etc. I prefer to run separate inverters and it works out cheaper, also giving you fully variable roller speeds. I use one main 4kw inverter and have it on a backing plate so it gets picked up and plugged in to whichever machine I am using, saves buying one for each machine. They just need to be plugged direct to the relevant motor, any switch gear between inverter and motor will fry the inverter. I also use a static inverter for full shop flexibility and this is much better than expected. They usually have two decent phases at 240 to earth/neutral (if you run neutral)but the third phase is about 180v and although weak is essential - a 3 phase has no power at all on two phases. It must have a weak third phase to have any functionality at all. I like your set-up with the smoothing motor acting as a buffer to put the weak third phase into correct ac switching. The voltage is only weak because the phasing is out of sync so the smoothing motor takes care of that. It should smooth it out enough to run a decent welder which is a really cheap way to AC/DC tigs. Many thanks for posting, I am inspired to improve my ststic set-up.
If you counted me to the people who talk with absolutely certainty about a topic - I am not. I always try to point out, that I just want to help with some brainstorming, since I think it's a super interesting setup. The language barrier might contribute to some difficulties to convey the right tone, in my case. I'm sorry! To the options you mentioned there's also the option to run a second motor with a one phase to 3 phase motor driver (VFD) add a fly wheel in the middle and run your current motor as a 3 phase generator. This way the frequency on the 3 phase AC side can drop when you turn on the tool without a huge load is being generated on your grid, since the VFD will limit the amount of current the motor can draw from it. With the VFD you can also significantly reduce the inrush current you need for a startup of the 3 phase generator, since you can set up a long start time, like 60 seconds. This way you don't stress your inverter and battery unnecessarily. Since the RPMs are quite low, maybe a flywheel cast in concrete would be an cheap option 🤔
Smart Man... And don't listen to the comments to much... but at the same time when watching you're last video I knew you'd get people asking things.. like people that don't understand...
I assumed that the current out of the static converter had an ugly wave form and the motor cleaned it up making the motors driving the tools perform better. It leaves me wondering why the static converter rather than a motor that could run directly off your battery bank, to drive the 3 phase motor/generator?
Isn't the battery bank a low voltage one? If it's 48 VDC or under then you're going to lose a lot of power in the transmission, which means you'd have to run the motor/generator right next to the batteries. I'm not sure where he's running it in relation to everything else but since he mentioned a 40 metre extension cord I'm guessing it's not that close to the batteries. But if you could set it up next to the batteries (or run your battery bank at over 100 VDC) then it is an option.
Hi Kris hope the projects are coming along Can you please confirm if you disconnected the manufacturerd capacitor leg wire from your idle motor? as I see the motor enclosure is off and it ooks like a wire has been disconnected. So only 2 phases plus earth are coming from the Clarke converter Thanks look forward to your reply Huge fan BTW
I get a 3phase tool is cheaper to get hold of but would it be better (in terms of power consumption) to get the cheaper 3phase tool and retro fit it with a single phase and more modest motor? Now that I have said that I am thinking something: It would be very cool and even more fitting to have an overhead powered shaft in the shop to run all you tools of off... just like back in the 1800's when steam was a thing...
A 1 hp pony motor with a flat pulley on a pivoting mount having an appropriate length handle can be brought to contact the belts flat side to spin up the main motor. It's a much safer way than using your drill.
Definately get a star-delta starter. You can buy them in kits that it will do the startup automatically and use a timer to set the change over. You can then set the timer to whatever you need for that tool (250ms, 1s, 3s etc.) and they arent that expensive
If you do go with a flywheel, maybe see if you have some gearing that you can use. That motor spins fairly slow, and speed goes into the energy equation quadratically, where weight only scales linearly. This is so severe that large scale kinetic energy batteries use super light carbon fibre flywheels because they can spin those even faster, resulting in more net energy.
Another great educational video. I know you have said in the past you are thinking of getting an electric car so in theory could you charge your car with a 3 phase charger using your setup?. Keep up the great content
He mentioned that it's about 1000 Ah of battery at 24V. So 24,000 watt hours. With a 6kw load that's about 4 hours of run time with no charging. With just his hydro running he gets about 450 watts per hour. That's a 5.5kw load on the battery, so about 4.3 hours of runtime with the hydro running. The hydro would take about 53 hours to fully charge that battery. So about 4 hours of use from that machine in a two day period is about the limit and that's not account other loads and losses. Even though that battery is a deep cycle forklift battery, it is going to get worn out very quickly. He needs more than twice the battery power, and twice the hydro power if he is going to work anything close to full time with those machines.
Hi Kris, What size motor are you running in the converter? I’ve been wanting to make a RPC for a while but this setup makes everything so much more simple and would be a great improvement over the static unit I’ve been using to date. Keep up the great work.
We used to have a shear at work that required a huge amout off power if it was to just start up but the starter had a dial in order to feed the power in and get the heavy flywheel running, you kept turning the dial untill it was fully up and running ..... is it possible for you to make up something similar in order to get your planer going
Kris please don’t leave loose tools on top of your running planner/ thicknesser especially as it is unguarded as it should be it’s only a question of time before the buzzer gets you! I am a x Sawyer / woodcutting machinist with all his pinkies unusual for a Tracey in my line of work. I shudder some time s when I see you bending over your unguarded saw cutting big redwood sleepers especially as the saw has no riving knife fitted on it to stop timber warf in on back cutting edge of saw and coming back towards you,can be dangerous mate otherwise I really like your video s Jeff Connor ex Pom now Australia 🇦🇺 good on yer .
I assume your running the single phase from your hydro turbine set up. And I understand the fundamentals of what your trying t achieve. Would it not be better to produce 3 phase at the hydro turbine and introduce a step up transformer that produces high voltage and low current and then step down to a stabilised 3 phase voltage. Then up to 3 single phases can be taken from the 3 phase supply, as to spread the load. 3 phase is more efficient than single phase. As an idea.
Is there Anyway you could post a wiring diagram. Mostly just a connection diagram. A picture of a crude hand drawn diagram would be helpful. Trying to get my head around what you are doing. Live all of your videos BTW
It's a normal unmodified three phase motor. When you feed them with one phase nothing happens (they just buzz), but when you feed them with two phases they start spinning but they aren't quite so efficient. But because of the design they function as a generator on the third phase (if you don't have a third phase connected) so you can tap off that to get your third phase to feed to the machines. Basically the one motor is used 2/3 as a motor and 1/3 as a generator.
Let me preface this comment by saying I have no idea what I am talking about. Wouldn't it be more efficient to just drive the 3 phase motor with a 240v single phase motor to produce your 3 phases? Presumably the 3 phase motor that is being powered off the 2 phases is consuming power from 2 of your phases to produce the 3rd so wouldn't the phases be out of balance?
I want to build an RPC and I have a phase converter, but wondering about the motor is it a 3 phase motor or single-phase on the RPC? also, you could put a single-phase pony motor of the jointer and then when it gets up to speed disengage the single-phase pony motor.
In rush current is high but whats the running current i didn't see the meter for normal running current after it stabilizes ? Once it gets up to speed the current should be lower. i can see a lot of flattening of boards in your future and a lot of gluing.
Personally with what you’ve got power wise I’d definitely go with the star delta contactor! However with the money you’ve spent on phase conversion wouldn’t it have been viable to convert to single phase motors?
I really think most your problem is in that yellow supply wire and the plug. It’s killing your load peak . It msking breaker kick on your generator output as a result .
Glad it cleared some things up, just because it the lead i have and there is no such thing as a 110v lead, it has 240v going in it so its 240v lead the conductors are no different just the connector but it works.
@@KrisHarbour Coming from industry, having a yellow 240v is kind of weird so i get where he is comeing from but this isnt industry!! In the uk, yellow is 110v and 240v is blue (normally). But like i said, this isnt industry, so who cares...
Part of the reason for the high current draw when starting up is because there's a lot of weight in the moving parts of the machine, which also helps deal with this just like a flywheel does. When you start using the machine the inertia in the moving parts means it won't slow down as much, and yes it will draw a little more current to get back up to speed again but nothing like the major current draw when it has to get going from being completely stopped.
It is possible to have several motors on a single VFD as long as there is individual overloads for each motor. You would need to power the starter contactors directly off mains and over-size the inverter by 100% to allow starting without the ramp. I used a 22kw 400v Danfoss VFD and a 25Kva 230-400v Step up isolating transformer to power a selection of machines (including a Planer/Thicknesser similar to yours) totalling 15Kva. All the motors can be started and stopped individually (or all at the same time) with no problems
A VFD that big would cost a pretty penny. A cheapy one from ebay would probably work but would probably burn out after 6 months of hard use. I can see his reasoning for not wanting to use a VFD. Kris, if you see this, don't forget that each machine that you add to your 3 phase system acts as an inertial battery as well. If after all of your modifications don't work for starting this beast, just add an extra machine or two that are a little smaller and easier to start. Start the small ones first, then use the inertia from those for starting the big one or just add a couple of three phase motors to your rotary phase converter that you can wheel around separately.
I am pretty sure that a vfd can take single phase input and output 3 phase. Also of your feed motor is on or off, you don't need a vfd for that. You are making it way harder than it needs to be.
Did you watch the video? it has two three phase motors! Why is this so hard? if i had a vfd driving the big motor how do i run the small motor? They are different sized motors that run at different speeds and the feed motor has two speeds.
@@KrisHarbour Interesting. Understand your reason - the large motor start caps in the phase converter are easy to DIY replace and the bits in a VFD are not. I'm not sure what the mechanism for a 3-phase induction motor would be to care about the rotational speed - isn't that just a factor of the number of windings? I really do suspect that with a big enough VFD this will work - apart from the locked rotor torque meaning maaaasive oversizing.
OK so let me make sure I understand. You have 2 three phase motors. Neither one of them need variable speed. But I am pretty sure that both can be run from a vfd from single phase. Or is that way more expensive then what you are doing. Because I can show you the place I buy vfd's from that is pretty inexpensive. @@KrisHarbour
You can definitely run more than one motor off a single VFD, just so long as it can output enough current to satisfy the demands of all the motors connected to it. Of course if you change the speed of the VFD then all motors speed up or slow down together, but like @fl0r1svdk says, if you set it to 50 Hz it'd be no different to grid power. However a large VFD that can do this won't be cheap, and since VFDs output high frequency (PWM) square waves and not sine waves, it will limit you to powering three phase motors only. If you put other things on there (like a power supply for a CNC machine, or a three-phase welder) who knows whether it will work or not, given that power supply transformers are designed to work with low frequency sine waves and not high frequency square waves. So yes the VFD would work for now, but it's not as flexible a solution for the long term.
So 2 phases are effectively passing through the motor and the motor acts as a generator and "fills in" the missing phase to make 3 phase, hence 2 phases at the correct voltage and the filled in phase being at a different ( lower ) voltage. There would be nothing less digital than a starting handle for that planer!
you set the rpm and hz in the vfd- so if you have two motors with different rpm like 3450 and 1750, i think running both from a single vfd would be weird
handdancin No, all motors in 50Hz countries are designed for 50Hz. The rpm is set by the number of poles in the motor. So far as the planer is concerned it just sees a standard 3 phase supply.
I don't understand why not just use new Dewalt machines, I understand old is good solid and heavy but why not new Dewalt tools just asking any reason .... my brother inlaw own a woodwork joining company and they use everything Dewalt onsite and in warehouse 240v so what are you making needs such old equipment? we all know the old tools look cool and heavy duty and don't seem to ever break, but today good tools got such long warranty don't see reason going old no more. love your video anyway ......can not wait to see what your making looks so interesting
You answered your own questions. New equipment doesn't last, has more vibration, costs a LOT more and breaks easier. Warranty on most things is short and mostly pointless as companies design equipment to be obsolete in a very short time. People constantly change their tools these days, not so long ago tools were for life. My dad has a jigsaw that's as good as anything on the market at the moment that he bought before i was born, im 40. Old tools last and are, for the most part, better built.
