Rotor dynamically Perfect Wheels: Hambini Reams MAGENE EXAR DB508 Ultra 

I have a giant revolt advance 0. Has hookless rims. They ride great but im always waiting for them to fail. Just having this in my mind messes up my rides. For that reason alone, i do NOT recommend hookless, evan on gravel.

It's also the fucking bike shops that need a reaming for pushing it

It's about as sane as a parachute manufacturer removing the reserve release because you'd hardly use it.

I've got a Giant tcr disc pro, with hookless rims, I crap myself when I take these wheels out, cornering etc. In case they pop off rim! Swooped with a pristine set of Fulcrum hooked lower rim depth with tpu tubes! I feel much more confident again!

Yep. Hookless means safety is not a major concern for companies who pushes it.

Good to hear. Aborted tubeless

Sure does big boy

waiting for ur comparison and review on the wheel

Show me your beaver!@@Hambini

RideNow 19g are way too fragile. On paper it’s WOW, but in reality 3/4 died before/after 1st ride for me. 24g bit more reliable but there are hit & miss. 1/2 didn’t work. I have ordered dozens of them over the last few months from different sellers.

@@SamuelBlackMetalRider I didn't even know they did a 19g tube. That is far too light for rim brake. The 36g tubes I use are rim brake rated and no issues or punctures even in 2 years regular use, on wonderful Welsh roads!

@@DP-PhD lucky you. I guess yeah the 36g are stronger. I even use 50g Gravel / MTB TPU tubes on my Gravel bike and they’re great. 24g are RideNow but some other cheaper brands are offering 28g a tiny bit stronger, but some hit & miss. But these cost like $4 basically the same price as a 100g butyl tube now!!

@@SamuelBlackMetalRider Been usin 36g ones for months. Absolutely no issues. I should add i use GP5000 tires

You're surely not putting your lack of punctures down to tpu inner tubes

my ride on tube leaked from the value join after about 500 miles shit for 16gbp

Butyl tubes for me. Havn't had a flat for at least three thousand miles ...I might try tpu when they're no.longer the price of a decent tyre.

I was almost ready to e-mail LTT that Hambini and LTT need to do a collab and hook Hambini up with the slickest solidworks machine ever. Considering the kind of relationship they already have with - for example - D-brand, it would be right up their alley. 😃

Linus would auction Hambini bottom bracket without Hambini even knowing it.

@@tweed0929 Savage! 🤣

@@tweed0929 😆😆😆

He is the epitome of commercialized youtube clips. Both he and Mr. Beast are business. I avoid both. If the clip is not organic in nature i dont bother. If the clip starts out with a 1 min intro, i dont bother. If the clip starts out with begging for clicks, likes and subs then money, i dont bother. If the clip has baked in ads to avoid the ad blockers i dont bother.

OMG yes, please. Loud hubs/wheels are just as annoying as loud motorcycles! :)

My vibration prefers a hairdresser.

🤣

I've had a leaky TPU tube too, but 2 out of 5 really is bad luck.

Had a heart rate monitor from magene which didn't work properly...

Pro was using the pawl system instead of star rachet.

No. One is viscous and adherent, the other dry and able to seek new positioning and compliance to balance.

Fortunately the air you're pushing your way through isn't snobby, it couldn't give a shit what stickers are on your bike or its components, if it works, it works.

Same in the golf club lol

You're in the wrong cycling club

@@davidsteel4139 I definitely second that, you don't need people like that in your life, they're no good to anyone but themselves.

The way to respond and take action against clubs like these are to form a large group of your own and crash their ride events. That will piss them off.

It's bad. The number wants to be as small as possible

I'm using 28c at the moment and I'm liking the ride have to say After years on 25c. I do have 23c tubulars on my classic and it rides very nice too. As I've gone for wider rims recently(28mm Od).

so, what are the downsides to 28-32 mm wheels other than the fact that YOU dont like them? every time i hear some old fart spew this nonsense, it is never back by facts, just the usual "25mm is good enough for me so why isnt it good enough for everyone else?" garbage.

You probably don't live in the uk. 23s is not a good idea with the roads we have in most of the country.

@@aitorbleda8267 I do live in the UK and ride everyday all year round. I’ve been back on 25mm tubulars all year and they feel so good after decades on clinchers. I have used 28’s in the winter but they just feel slow and make he bike feel dead and that’s with 5000’s and latex tubes. When I put 25’s back on the bike feels alive and responsive.

The torque from braking is more than from pedaling so it's dumb to do 2:1 on disc rear wheels.

@@trentvlak You obviously do not understand the dynamics of a spoked wheel. The tension on the spokes about 120 kg is needed so that the varying tension on the spokes due to rolling, pedaling and braking is small compared to constant spoke tension, otherwise spokes fatigue and break. With dished wheels 2:1 spoking allows both sides of the wheel to have similar spoke tensions making the wheel more reliable. With one piece hubs the torque is transferred to all the tangentially laced spokes. Ideally spoked bicycle wheels would not be dished, and for heavy 100 kg plus riders I build frames with the chain stays offset to remove the dish in the rear wheel. Bikes for riders up to 150 kg have no wheel/spoke issues. Twisted cranks, bend pedal spindles, bend seat posts but no wheel problems.

@@dan2304 No, I do understand. Mavic and Zipp tried radial spokes on the drive side and it didn't work out for them. Doing it on the braking side is double the mistake. Try to be more humble in the future.

@@trentvlak As a mechanical engineer and 40 years frame and wheel building I am being humble, trying to increase understanding of something I am passionate about. They were not the only ones and radial lacing on the drive side does not address the problem of spoke tension on a dished rear wheel. 1:1 spoke lacing on a dished 11 speed rear hub produces spokes on the drive side some 2-2.5 times the tension as on the non-drive side. As the rim limits tension for spokes at about 120 kg some go to 140 kg that means the non-drive spokes are too lose and are unreliable due to changes in tension causing fatigue and fracture. With 2:1 lacing with 2 tangential lace drive side spokes and 1 either tangential or radial on the non-drive side produces spokes of roughly even tension on both sides of the wheel. With a 3 mm asymmetric rim and 2:1 lacing as described a dished rear wheel with the same spoke tension on both sides of the wheel can be obtained. The front wheel due to the low fraction of the weight load that it carries and wider flange spacing is much more tolerant but with disc brakes must have at least one side tangential lacing.

Max psi for those wheels is in the 70s though. Now, it should not blow at 10psi over and in fact should be good to almost double in theory but I’m also out on hookless. I don’t see what it gets me and I’m annoyed that makers like zipp and enve have gone exclusively to it.

Max for hookless is 73psi and to be on the safe side better use 28mm width tires. Its pretty dangerous because some manufacturers specced the bike with hookless wheel which many are not aware of the max psi which could result in catastrophic blowout 😢

Zipp max hookless is 73. Envee max hookless is 80. Check the specs if you don't believe me. Still, there should be a safety margin. If it's writen max psi 80, it should have been tested for 90 or 95. Plus, they where sitting in my garage brand new at 21C. This is unacceptable safety margin.

@@patricehenri8172 😲 did you contacted Enve about that?

Yeah. I'm even more of a shill than David Arthur

@@Hambini Sir David, to you.

That’s a straight-pull system, and with those spoke tensions (assuming they’re maintained), they’re not coming out of there, even if it may look mighty strange. Personally, I’ve only built J-bend spoke wheels, but one downside / point of interest that I have for straight-pull systems like these is water retention and corrosion. We’re talking about different brands here, but since some of the spoke heads always rest on the hub ’flanges’ horizontally, they tend to retain water quite well, it sticking between the spoke heads and the flanges. I’ve seen pics of some pretty bad-looking corrosion that’s started to develop on some wheels over time. Those were on the MTB-side of things, though, which means worse riding conditions, more mud and muck, as well as (often) less maintenance. I’d also be interested in real-world user experiences of where that leads to (besides the infirmary 😃) and most of all, how quickly. Compared with the J-bend, the straight-pull is a relatively new system, so I assume there’s not that much consumer-level data out there yet. Realistically, though, if you’re buying this very wheelset, I don’t think you’re going to be riding too much in the rain, at least intentionally, and even if you are, I’d assume (at least) that the flanges get dried with compressed air straight after, so this kind of corrosion damage should be a non-issue. As a side note, outside of competition-level wheelsets like these where weight reduction is a true merit and where you need a system to attach carbon spokes, I’m not a fan of the straight-pull system. It’s often marketed as eliminating the ’weak point’ of J-bend spokes, which is the elbow of the spoke. If you know anything about steel, however, you know to stress-relieve the steel spokes after you build a J-bend wheel, which brings the inherent stress of the elbow well below its yield. This removes the ’weak point’ and you’ll have a happy wheel that will likely outlast you.

@@CodSlap I prefer traditional hubs for J-bend spokes. The reason is: tangential spoke patterns. With J-bend hubs you can do radial, tangential 2-cross, 3-cross, 4-cross, crow foot and so on. You can choose. With straight pull hubs you are limited only by the spoke lacing pattern that was determined by manufacturer and if you lose a spoke, more often than not it is PITA to find the replacement spoke for your particular wheelset. Usually, rim-brake road bike wheelsets come with the front wheel laced radially. I don't like that. Not only you get overly stiff wheel, but also they look just ugly. Overall, J-bend is: user-friendly, corrosion free, choice-friendly, wallet-friendly. Straight pull just adds complications for no real benefit.

I've never seen a j bend Carbon spoke

@@tweed0929 Agreed. 👍 Straight-pull has its use cases, but at least for me personally (and probably for most of the Joe Averages out there), J-bend tends to be the way to go. That being said, I may just be a full luddite too when it comes to my wrenching. 😃 I worked in very IT-heavy fields before I retired, so now when it comes to simple machines like bicycles, I like them tried-and-true and relatively low-tech. It’s simple hardtails, steel frames, hydraulics and cables for me… 🤪

​@@tweed0929problem with a J bend is you have a point of wear as the spoke moves radially ever so slightly under compression. MTB moved to straight pull as spokes were known to break at the bend from stress cycling.

Yeah you gotta take into account the valve weight which is around 5 ior 6 grams more if you've got really deep section rims plus extenders, sounds like fuch all but it doesn't feel like fuch all at 45mph tho.

Tbf if the wheel itself is well balanced its a lot easier to counter weight it with some accuracy. Flexy fridge magnets are you friend for this.

Yeah. When someone recommends Gatorskins to newbies on forums, it's like the worst kind of advice a man can give to someone with no experience. Gatorskins don't grip on wet. The same goes for wallet-friendly Continental Ultra Sport and Ultra Race. Very nice ride quality, but zero grip on wet.

They are called pirelli ditchfinders for a reason. I'll stick with the continental

​@@HambiniTry the Tufo duo comtura 28c it's my tyre of choice now.

Cinturato are very nice tires indeed. Roll beautifully, very supple considering their puncture resistance

@@Hambini whats the problem? t. 8000km on cunturato velos no ditches nor punctures

I'm practical and not a badge snob

@@Hambini will nobody think of the gators

70+ psi is still quite a high pressure, no car tire has a tire pressure that high.

@@supervhschannel4139 I have been using hookless bicycle road tyres on hookless rims for several years now without any issues. I would say that your rumours about the stiffness of my tyres and the bulk of my arms was greatly exaggerated. We could argue benefits but I have not observed any downsides during the last couple of years and couple thousand Kms.

@@supervhschannel4139 Hookless has some benefits (outlined above) and no downsides. The only benefit of hooked is the extra insurance for extra cautious people. But if in practice there are no blow offs, that extra insurance comes at the cost of losing the benefits of hookless. You mentioned limited choice of tyres, but my tyre of choice does work with hookless anyway and I selected it not based on that but just the value and quality. It is extremely popular as well (Schwalbe Pro One).

@supervhschannel4139 I didn't mean to make any personal comments at all, but I guess you'd like to take it personally to find an easy way out of the conversation. That's ok, we need to get used to the unique snowflakes getting depressed and from people looking at them the wrong way. It's all about how you word it isn't it? You are not "being extra cautious" you are "enjoying piece of mind"... word games are very trendy these days as well...

​@@supervhschannel4139I don't know why you keep bringing this subject of me not being able to say it in a face to face conversation. I have no issues with that at all.