Rotor Removal with a Puller HD 

Clown Fish Good stuff man. Glad to help

why?

@@struggle29 because the rotor in most cases is stuck to the hub. It would snap free and literally fly off. It happened to me and the rotor missed my knee by a couple of inches.

Thanks for the tip I have a jetta. Stud bolts all around. I'll make sure I stand to the side

A 5lbs sledge an a few shots of whiskey would of save you 14hrs.. blaster is snake oil with out 500 degree heat

Ravi Bolneni That's awesome! Glad to help out. Cheers

Thank you. Appreciate the feedback.

+Riza Khan not sure i would risk wallowing out the socket hole or the end of the extension. i use a large wrench, slip the closed end over the end of the ratchet and push down. or just keep a scrap pipe around.

cutzwithrazzor Awesome man! Glad it worked.

Tell me about it same on my yukon

me too....pulley alone wasnt enough👍👍

Good tip!

All pullers like this you can use an impact wrench on, now the ones that are not specifically impact rated if you don't use them lightly they will mess up the threads and shorten the life span of the tool. Ideally use some grease or other lubrication on the threads and use the impact wrench sparingly a little here and there. The trick is not letting the threads get too warm/hot. Also using this kind of puller you don't really want to just impact on it until it "pops". That's a serious hazard depending on what you are working with. A rotor isn't that bad but other uses can be. What you really want to do is to get it tight, get some decent tension on it either with a wrench, socket, or impact just don't keep going until it pops, go until it's fairly tight and hit the end with a hammer a few times. It will loosen up some then tighten it down a little more and continue the process. Or if you don't mind a trip to the hospital just keep going at it and roll the dice.

Jarrod Martin lol Sounds good to me man. Cheers

It's the same one.

lol it really does look different

@@CarsNToys looks different because you put heat on it huh?

hmmm....

The wheel bearing is fine because there is no stress on the cup or race. The stress is in the same direction of axle shaft, unless you bend the axle, which is impossible compared to bending the steering knuckle. People bend steering knuckles using the steering knuckle with the bolt method

Rotor wont break they dont even break from impact in a car crash or very rarely. Worse case scenario a small dent or scratches.

At some point, you just have to give up and cut them with a torch, though.

lol mind as well junk the car at that point

Not at all, they torch the things all the time at the shops

+Brian McNichols Awesome man!

Alex Ag Awesome man!

Someone mentioned to screw in a couple lug nuts beforehand, maybe this will help

That's awesome man. Glad it worked out

Glad you got the sucker off!

Awesome! Glad to help.

Glad to help.

da skipper Sweet man

I put a pipe over the wrench.

Steel has a nearly isotropic modulus of elasticity meaning it is equally strong is tension/compression no matter the orientation of the applied stress. The stress from bending that he applied is nowhere near the limit of the shear stress from torque that this socket is rated for.

I just use a hammer and I worked in many a dealers as a licenced mechanic! Or air hammer

+Safe Line Fleet Very true indeed!

+Safe Line Fleet I'd say maybe most, certainly not ALL. I'm here because my 2012 Ram 2500 doesn't have the threaded holes. The one in the video does, but that doesn't help me. I've used "Powerful PB Blast" and a 3lb steel mallet, so far without success. I don't have a torch. Any ideas?

I have had two rotors that were so rusted, that when the 8mm bolts were threaded in, the rotor merely cracked as the area around the threaded holes was lifted and the rest of the rotor stayed put. Only heating with a MAP/O2 torch and a 3 jaw puller were able to get the rotor off. Operating a vehicle in a cold climate where salt is used to De-ice roads really sucks when it comes to maintenance and rust.

+Stepclimb There are always exceptional situations, as yours. They probably add up to like in 1 in 1000, 100000 maybe. And the best part is that you count as that one ! Sure, as you say , de-icing salts can wreck havoc on the undercarriage and other components that it makes contact with. I live by the sea, here in Chennai, India, where the temperature is a min 30 deg C during winter, and 44-45 deg C in summer, with a humidity level of 92-99% most of the time. And the humidity comes from salt laden sea water. This stuff corrodes and spoils every part of the car - body rust, door hinges, wheel bolts when you have a flat..... So, you can cheer in the knowledge that you have to deal with man made salt conditions, down here, God and Nature does it for us.... ha ha !

Mine doesn't have the holes...sooooo.

Wouldn't be a great way to demonstrate the claw puller though, would it?

@@dexkmetz3102 lol

+Santhanam Venugopalan Good tip

Don't take the nut off your center CV Axle or you have no firm point to pull from if you are using the puller method shown in this video. I am sure you have figured it out by now.

Good luck.

@@CarsNToys this didnt work. the puller tool was to small for my rotors. but i got them off any way. my dad told me to just use some liquid wrench and a 3lb hammer.

Yeah he mentioned it was a 6

I don't believe so. Sorry. Those captive rotors are not fun.

frankenstrat25 That definitely works as well.

No rotor screws on this rotor. (Nissan rotor in this case) And a three pound hammer definitely works as well. Cheers

+Santhanam Venugopalan Sorry My bad. Missed that part of the video where it says 6inch. Buying a puller now.

whats your rotor size thanks

Cheapest bet, Harbor Freight.

8" - if I remember correctly. This was a number of years ago. I have a set - amzn.to/2UY2um2

@@CarsNToys ok thanks. I have a disc brake thats 12 inch in diameter and aren't sure if an 8 would work

@@CarsNToys thank you. Do you remember the disc size? I have a 12 inch disc and I'm just making sure its the right size

You get that this puller has three legs right?

@@dg8620 I can see them and count so yes. The three legs are spread way to wide. All you had to do is remove the large spindle nut, remove the hub with the rotor and use a press or a large hammer and block of wood to separate the two pieces. Showing novices how to do things wrong and dangerously is not a good thing to be doing. Make videos about something you know how to do right.

+GAR A Agreed

Yeah, my rear discs have parking brake shoes built into them. Makes it much harder to remove than a normal disc. Yes, I released the parking brake. :-)

Good tip!

sylvain beausoleil What a bummer! Go to your local auto part store and rent a puller specifically made for rotors. It will latch on where the lug nuts are and you'll be able to pull off the rotor. You can also get a 3lb hammer and hammer the back of the rotor; or what's left of it. I use this technique in my wheel bearing replacement video. It works but takes a lot of muscle.