Rusty Rover P6 Restoration. Is this old girl a step too far? Roof corroded, rear chassis legs corroded, both sill panels inner and outer, both hockey sticks and wing gutters corroded, no clutch or brakes.
I’m in my 60’s and recall these brand new in the showroom, always loved them, such a beautiful and innovative design. Hats off to you for preserving one I wish you well and look forward to the finished result.
I take my hat off to you for tackling for what many people would treat as a donor/parts car only. Your a brave man. I used to live in UK and know how cars can rot, especially older classics. I had a few P6Bs in my time there etc. My first was very rotten, but the rot was skilfully hidden, it looked stunning with the interior still looking like new - I learnt a lot how the P6 rots! One aspect is how whilst the cars rot the interiors stay on the whole really good, its the opposite here in Oz, the bodywork stays pretty well spot on depending upon where you live, whilst the interiors and paint are attacked mercifully by the sun.
Simply outstanding. Patience and dedication. Thank you for sharing and for saving those brilliant British engineering. I have a 1969 2000 that need help restoring. last time it ran over 30 yrs ago. Any suggestions!. Thank you very much.
Hi Ibrahim, it would be difficult to say really without knowing more information. Has it corroded during that time, does the engine turn over etc. There is plenty of information on youtube. Maybe join a car club in your area.
G,day mate Geoff here from Adelaide Australia, im just starting a 3500s, luckily my body is mostly ok, just the panels, im lucky to have bought a donor car from the desert here, both cars are very solid as we don't salt the roads, i can change panels and fix the odd hole but what your doing is mind blowing, at least you are saving a classic, well done sir.👍👏
what spot weld drill are you using it seems to be a quality one as it leaves a boss around it to be removed later, i think that's probably the least destructive way i've seen of pulling panels BTW am doing a light restore on a 3500 myself. was lucky enough to drop on an Aussie one with just wing problems and one hole. lol
Lucky you. The spot weld tool is off ebay. It has a round serated saw that does the cutting. A centre spring loaded pin keeping it central. The one used on the Rover is a 3/8", a little big for my liking. A 5/16" one is preferable but needs to be dead centre to cut round the spot. Takes a little practice as the teeth break easily. Go at it gently to start the cut. Thanks for watching.
It's nice to see a car that needs to back on the road again this rover p6 looks sorry for its self a sad to see in poor condition and not just a car to show what a Britain"s classic looks like when restored.
Apologies for the poor video and background music. I've never done this before. There will be more episodes to follow on as I progress. Please like, subscribe and comment below. Thanks for watching 😉
The JRW D-post bottom section I bought did not come close to fitting. The inner sill, outer sill and door tread sections fitted nicely and are of 1.2mm galv'd steel
Well John, It's underway a dozon videos for you to binge watch lol. Aviation is my thing so enjoyed the engine start up on the jet. Liked and subscribed your channel.
I wish you luck sir, but economically this isn't going to add up - too far gone. But, being a P6 fan, no-one will be happier than me if you do it anyway as it's another one saved. Cheers.
That sticker on the old inner sill is for BCP Automotive. BCP stands for Bucks Car Panels and they were for years based in High Wycombe but I think they are defunct now.
