I simply Lanoguard my P6 every year which seems to keep the rust at bay.. It's easy enough to do and only takes about an hour each time.. A great video again.. Thank you.. (Phil)
Thanks for this very helpful series. I'm doing some inner sill welding on my Rover P6 and your videos are really clear with lots of tips that will prevent me making so many mistakes. My P6 came with freshly overhauled suspension and a set of spring retaining hooks - good to see how they work if I ever need to take a spring out. Looking forward to it the rest of the journey with your lovely V8. On colours, take a look at Rüdiger Wicke's website which has photos of P6s in every factory colour. I really like Richileu Red which was used on very late cars. Or there are some lovely bright shades used on Australian and New Zealand cars.
Thanks for taking the time to comment. Glad the vids are of some use. I found Rudiger Wicke's website very useful, and promptly bookmarked it. Thanks again. Mike.
Mike, another nice video, such lovely neat work, and you take your time to do it really well. For colours, I think Zircon blue is lovely or Brigade red is I think another nice P6 colour. Ps I'm looking forward to receiving my medal in the post!
Wonderfull work......Colour wise, I'd stick with original every time. In this case Scarab Blue. would be correct, unless it's had a colour change. Rover undersealed these in the factory originally. I'd raptor it with a coat of satin Black. Likewise Outer sills should be Satin black paint and the underbonnet and Boot surround areas ditto.. Well worth picking up one 0f James Taylor's excellent P6 books too. Lots of info in there. Look forward to seeing it progress. All the best!
you are right about underseal. It can look a bit amateurish slapped all over the place, which you are not! I saw a nice P6 2200 on a RU-vid clip from Bangers and Cash, which was lunar grey. Up to you of course. The blue always reminds me of the police car colour from that era. Looking forward to your next video - thank you.
Regarding the colour, providing you go with an original shade from the year, use that. Zircon blue is nice but go with what you like the look of. On my own 1968 P6B restoration project, I've left a lot of the original underseal in place as the process to remove is not something I want to get into. Patches that have got surface rust I've treated with Hammerite Kurust and painted with Corroless chassis paint as I have a lot left over from my Defender chassis rust renovation exercise! On top of this I've used Dinitrol 3125HS which is a brown Waxoly type solution but doesn't dry out. This process wants checking every couple of years or so to monitor for any return of ferrous oxide! On the suspension components, I've used Hammerite paint, in my case dark green. A couple of coats will outlast the car, not standard finish but I'm happy with the results.
Lovely job, I like the way you removed the spring, that was well thought out. How about British Racing Green. My P4 Rover 95 is that colour and it looks amazing.
