Can u help me get that manual Decompressor u are using on youre bullet.. I cant find one anymore. 😩 And i am planning to get it installed on the right side Spark Plug Point And gonna remove the Auto decomp Thats all i have to do na ?
Hey man, as I'm not aware of the thread pitch etc of the second spark plug hole for the twin spark versions, I'm not sure which one will be the correct unit. So make sure you check the thread pitch and get the appropriate one. The one I got was www.ebay.com.au/itm/HARLEY-COMPRESSION-RELEASE-VALVE-10MM-X-1-0-X-360-THREAD-LENGTH-RELIEF-/271789524131?hash=item3f47eb04a3:g:l-oAAOxy-WxTA50w And yes, you have to remove the auto decomp. I'm hoping it's the same thread pitch as the main spark plug hole. If it is, then you can use the one shown above.
bEaSt656 and is it okay to ride without Any Decomp ? I had a question though.. How would the pressure of engine that releases while Decomp. Get out without any decomp.. In my bullet This thing makes me think again. Needed help
Hi bro, Thanks. The exhaust shown in the video is the Sans Classic Parts short-bottle glasswool silencer. However, recently I've heard that a good combo to have is the free-flowing C/U shape bend pipe and a short-bottle silencer with baffles (3 baffles / jaalis). They are also sold by Silman, or any other 'Indore' brand with baffles. At the moment I have free-flowing bend and silencer - which is too loud for longer rides and the sound is 'blatty' at higher revs. So I might also get the silencer with 'jaali' in the near future.
Hello brother, sorry for the late reply. I believe some people have done this, or at least one who has a video here. If you get the hole thread pitch correct for drilling in to the cylinder head, and the decomp body can fit in-between the inlet/exhaust rocker covers, then I don't see why it can't work. I'm not sure if you'll have clearance issues to the chassis down-tube / tank with the old style de-compressor. Obviously, try to do a dummy fit check / measurements before doing anything. The drilling / tapping of the cylinder head will obviously need to be done with extreme care if the above is possible.
hey i noticed that your bike idle rpm is set low so you get the thump can you make a video on how set efi bikes rpm ????? want to get the same sort of thump mine is very fast could not get that slow strokes..
Hi bro, the EFI idle RPM needs to be set a bit higher. It needs to be enough to so that the battery is being charged. And too low of an idle RPM on EFI tends to shut down the bike. But you can try. You have to adjust the idle RPM by adjusting the large brass screw on the throttle body. No other screw should be touched. Turn clockwise to lower RPM. Set your idle RPM after the bike has warmed up. You can see a couple of videos here on how to adjust it: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-w51XKoubABI.html & ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0mOBkO0vsJc.html
Hows it working now ? Did u face Any issues in ur engine till now or Gearbox ? I m plannig to do the same done in my Std bullet 350 uce indian Please suggest.
Hi brother. It's working as it should. No issues at all till now. It's a standard drill and tap job if yours doesn't have the second spark plug hole there already =D
+bEaSt656 mine is Twinspark and m fighting for Engine noise from past week n getting parts changed tmrw. After that i will get the auto decom removed n manual decom installed ! But my mechanic doesnt suggest me this because he says it may result in breakage of Kick Spring that costs 50-60rs but 3-4k labour because whole engine box has to be opened thts why m waiting if its okay to do so..
Not sure what the manual decomp has to do directly with the "kick spring"? Unless he thinks it will put unnecessary stress on the kick lever pawl/spring, I'm not sure. It's the same with cast iron Bullets. The spring can fail with or without any decompressor. It's just bad luck if you end up in that situation. To change the spring, you need to remove the right side engine cover and the kick start shaft cover to replace the spring. This can be done by us newbies in two-three hours on the first time (Maybe even less). Don't worry, your kick start return spring should be fine.
+bEaSt656 buddy removing Decompressor puts alot stress on Kick as there is no Decompressor (manual nor auto) Piston can slip or harden the kick and it results in Broken kick Spring that is present near Piston area Not the Right side Timming box bro Thats why fixing this costs all engine opening with 3-4000 labour. 😑😔😩
@@arshakmohammed7028 If you wish to have a stable low idle and not have the 'clacking' of the auto-decomp at low revs (< 850 RPM)/cold mornings, then you can remove it. Have a look at my previous comments/replies to others about it being removed, and make your decision accordingly. You can still keep the auto, whilst the manual decomp will make your kick-starting much easier, but it might be a bit odd to have both. You can try and see how it goes.
@@bEaSt656 thanks a lot for replying man means a lot to me. I get it now. I really need to keep my bike at low rpm so now I know that I've to get the auto decompressor out! Thanks so much ❤️
Hello brother. The tank badge/monogram itself is stock, however the "Enfield" gold/yellow plate was from another pair of tank badges I got from E-bay (via Delhi). Then I just replaced the stock "Royal Enfield" gold plate with the Enfield one in the monogram. I believe the tanks these days have the sticker type badges instead of the actual monograms that were attached with two screws. Not sure if there are aftermarket "Enfield" badges that can stick on the standard Bullet tanks now unfortunately.
Thanks for your feedback brother. If you observe carefully, I turn the ignition key on just *once* around the 0:54 mark, and it started on the first kick. Maybe one and a half, for your sake. In everyday situation, the bike starts on the first kick all the time.
+Nithin S +Raahul Pednekar Sorry for the late reply brother. It's the 500cc Bullet export model. I got the decompressor from E-bay. You can refer to this link for details on the decomp: forum.classicmotorworks.com/index.php/topic,22947.0.html
Hi, These are straight from the factory, bike was assembled in early 2011. I'm sure you can source the required parts from various suppliers outside the factory. Have a look on E-bay, there are quite a lot of them. Also, you can get original spares by going to your local RE dealer or service centre. Hope this helps.
This tank badge " Enfield " never was put on uce models..... that's why I am curious...the local dealers authorised or unauthorised are jerks to be honest. Btw thanks gor the reply I'll look up the websites you mentioned. Much regards.
Ah, you want the "Enfield" logo =D The whole badge assembly is from factory, it came with the standard "Royal Enfield" written in the gold plate of the whole motif. I myself wanted "Enfield", so I searched for "enfield tank badge" on E-bay and there were tank badges with "Enfield" only. So I bought a few and removed the gold plate from those ones and put them on the factory ones. The gold plate is easy to remove/replace. You'll notice that once you take off/unscrew the whole badge assembly from the tank.
hey there ,wanted to know that i own a classic 500 efi and i i have switched the muffler do i need to re map the ecu or this is just a slip on the as it is fitted post cat con ,so will i need to re map the ecu and do free flow exhaust effect engine in longride ???
Hello. As long as the silencer has some sort of baffles / mesh, it should be fine to an extent. If it's a completely free-flowing silencer, it might still work, but you might lose top-end power/acceleration. This happened to me once. And if you're riding for long periods at high speeds, the additional lean condition might lead to overheating and reduce the life of the exhaust valve. The stock ECU can't be re-mapped. You either need to get the Power Commander V or an EJK fuel controller to compensate for any additional exhaust / air filter mods. However, see how you go - if you've lost top end-power and have a noticeable decrease in acceleration after 60km/h, then the silencer is probably not right to install without any compensation for fuel.
bEaSt656 thanks man currently switched back to stock will search for some good exhaust and one more doubt i have that earlier i have installed the old bullet 3 baffles exhaust it caused bike to mis one fire after leaving throttle and once i get back on it bam one missed fire then it continues can the cause be a small amount of air leaking from joint of silencer to bend pipe ? and are they any good on one uce engine and specially efi ones ?? thanks for your support buddy ! ✌️✌️
All good bro. The 3 baffles Indore/Mini-punjab should've been fine for your bike. When you say misfire, are you referring to deceleration pops - accelerating hard and then letting go off the throttle, causing multiple pops on over-run? Or, are you saying that every now and then it would do a bang, with some loss in power? Deceleration pops generally mean a lean condition at zero throttle / idle. And if you're getting an odd bang or two every now and then, it can be due to an air leak - not so much at your silencer / bend pipe attachment, but instead at the bend pipe and cylinder head attachment. If the bolts at the cylinder head are loose (that hold the bend pipe), or the exhaust gasket is damaged and letting air past it, that can cause the misfiring also. If the mixture is too rich, it can also cause massive bangs when you let go off the throttle sometimes - due to the unburnt fuel being ignited on its way out the exhaust valve. But I don't think your case is "too rich". Have a look at your spark plug.
Hi, this is the decomp unit I bought from E-bay (not the same seller though) www.ebay.com/itm/10mm-x-1-0-Harley-Compression-Release-Valves-for-High-Compression-Engine-/173039845570 It is a 10mm unit with 1mm thread pitch. Hope this helps.
Hey. These are Dunlop K70 3.5'' x 19'' both front and rear. The standard front one is supposed to be 3.25'', but I opted for the 3.5''. At first the steering feels a little heavier, but after one day or so, you get used to it.
On the front, with my current 3.25, it seems like there is barely any clearance, can you confirm that there is no touching with the side walls. It seemed tight on the front mudguard right by the shocks so I am hesitant. I have a 2016 B5 so we have the same bike. Sorry for the late reply, cheers for the help!
Hi mate. I've had these tyres since Jan 2014. Have had no issues, thankfully. The clearance is adequate. But we have to note that all of these bikes are a tad different. A few tweaks to your mudguard stays might be required to gain further clearance if you're not satisfied with your stock clearance to the 3.25.
Hi, mine is the single spark plug. I believe a few people have done this by keeping both spark plugs - they drill/tap the centre of the cylinder head. I believe there are a few videos here which show that.
I turned on the ignition / key at the 0:52 mark. It only took 1 kick. Before that, I was just showing the difference in kick pressure / compression with and without decomp. Thanks.
+Julian Johnstone I got this done just for kick starting. However, you can use it for the e-start as well. I've tried it once and I'm certain it does relieve the pressure on the starter motor on the initial cranks. Apologies for the late response.
