Royal Enfield (J Series 350s) D.I.D gold chain upgrade! Realtime fitting of controversial Clip link! 

I've still got my tin of Linklyfe that I used in the 1960's!!

When I had Shane drive motorcycles we had the JC Whitney catalog full of motorcycle parts and the best part was you looked up your motorcycle and they showed you the exact same that you needed for your bike along with sprockets and everything included as a set or individual. Always got good value out of the parts and things I bought from JC Whitney I wish they were still around

Ah, you’ve jogged my memory of a LinkLife chain grease in a round tin, and popping it on the gas hob when my mum was out!

Wow! What a simple way to remember this. Thank you so much. Now, I will remember this for life and pass it on to my boys too.

Exactly right, and exactly as we do it when replacing chains on farm machinery!

Zip pull on my jacket for many years

My 2017 T120 is still running original EK chain and sprockets at 48 000kms (30 000miles). Rarely ridden in rain or on dirt roads, and I mainly lube with Maxima Chain Wax.

@rossdarling5975 Middle of winter here in Sydney 🇦🇺 and 20 degrees C …can’t complain about that. I always have a little laugh when I hear poms talk about ‘riding season’

I had night terrors about the risk of doing that. Never happened, but boy would I have been in trouble 😮

A properly fitted split link is as good as a riveted 'soft link', if not better. I used them on 150mph sprint bikes with no issues (along with non-O ring chain ’cos O rings sap power… and when every BHP counts…)

ill consider it when im confined to a wheelchair!

@@stuartfillingham 😁

@@stuartfillingham When I can no longer lay on the floor to do an oil change I am buying a motorcycle lift table. It will pay for itself in 3 years versus taking the bike to a garage 3 times a year for oil changes. Then when I sell the lift I will likely get back 50% of what I paid for it. Use regular pliers to put on the split link. The jaws wont slip off as easily as needle nose pliers do.

Well I look after my chains and the RE ones are poor

@@MegaGrumpyoldman I assume that the quality of the chains are simply very variable. I certainly don't look after my chains with the same conscientiousness as Stuart (get her in first gear and spray a bit of lube while idling -- end of story) and after more than 6300 miles it is still in pretty good condition. Similar story with Interceptor gear boxes, most are allegedly working great others are pathetic. Only the speedos of the 350 Classic differ. There is great consistency on offer here: They are rubbish.

then how do you thread the new chain on? you have no open link to connect up to!

@@stuartfillingham I see you link to link solution but most of my chain changing has been on dirt bikes so threading the new chain is often easy 😊.

@@nigel-rs6ny it is , simply because the wear and wear in all these components are interrelated. A worn chain would wear the sprockets and vice versa. Which will then began a cycle. If you have some spare cash would absolutely recommend doing both.

They absolutely should be changed as a set. Most people never do.

Good luck!

ive actually got one somewhere that ive been meaning to fit for both classic! thanks for the reminder!

@@stuartfillingham I've only just done it and it's a very easy intstallation on the 500 Stu, once you get the tank off. I cable tied the two sets of 'new' connectors at the front of the bike together, to secure them out of sight under the tank (you can just see this to the left of my third picture) and the rear pair of joined connectors (which I secured next to the Fuel X unit), I neatly bound with black insulation tape to protect and cover up the brightly coloured plugs and wiring. This should make the unit virtually invisible beneath the sprung seat once fitted. I utilised one of the two existing earthing points, which can be seen in my fourth picture ahead of the pillion frame, so as to not have to use the negative battery terminal directly. There was no other place the unit could be fitted on the 500 as far as I could see, except perhaps to where the toolkit is stored but It is as tight as a drum where I've placed it and using minimal cable ties, it isn't going anywhere. It will be completely invisible if placed there on the new 350 I think. The short video shows the unit settled on map 7 when counting the blinking LED's. Map 1 is the leanest, map 3 is stock and map 10 is the richest. The benefits of it for an air cooled Euro 4 bike are obvious. I also only use E5 fuel in my bikes, which burns slightly hotter than E10 and so will help there. I'm not sure what the benefit of it will be in a Euro 5 bike because the bike's main ECU is more restrictive but I imagine they've found a way of working around it.