I start a smooth and easy dive into the tuning software on the Royal flush #acesefi #aftermarket #chevy #engine #fuelinjection #howto #maths #royalflush #tuning
People that have something to complain about usually want more views. The hard thing to do is to see a person straight disrespecting a product that you spent years on. I have been ramping up more informational videos to help that out.
Can you make a vid on Acceleration Correction vs TPS? Also i have a BAP error, what is that? Vehicle runs fantastic just a small bog transitioning to WOT
The bap error is a voltage related thing. The system uses the map sensor for elevation the bap was designed as a backup in a way. I have made a video on the acc vs TPs I just have to post it.
Is there a way to do this tuning on just handheld ?? All my numbers seem good but still having hard acceleration issues. Bumped up my displacement from 454 to 525. Seem to help then started same issue bogging @ heavy throttle driving and just sitting still.??? Did Acc vs tps as u did but didn’t really change.???? Confused and frustrated !! Eddie
@@actionvulture5251 man I’ve tried everything !! It will run good then I’ll stop take off under heavy throttle and goes rich. I’ve change VE table starting from the 60’s topping out low 80’s and still does same. Cruise is good just won’t take heavy acceleration. Ones I hit throttle hard then it starts running bad. ??? Was running lean doing same until I updated firmware. Now it’s rich. Change cam settings no chance. Talked to Willie said acceleration enrichment maybe off. Where is that on laptop or handheld ?? Don’t know what else to try.????
This has me worried that I might be fighting mine when I put in on. I bought my motor from a guy that builds them in his machine shop on the side. It's supposed to be a "355" with a mild cam is all I know. How hard is that going to be to dial in?
I do not mean to worry people by any means. The basic adjusts to get one running I usually do in the hand held then I use the tuning software to fine tunes stuff. Not really hard
Hey Tim, what should I adjust to get rid of popping on deceleration? Royal Flush 383 stroker, decent cam, 3" pipes with super 10 mufflers. Sounds like shotguns on decel lol
i have a royal flush i also bought the fuel pressure kit but i cannot find where to add the fuel pressure to my 7 inch dash i can get to the screen where i can change what sensors are shown on the dash but see no fuel pressure option
@@actionvulture5251 if i switch from royal flush to wildcard on the handheld i can find the option for fuel pressure but it is not avaliable when i have the handheld in royal flush mode
If I made a log could you check it? I followed your video as best as I could and once it seemed like everything evened out and was running good the AFR went up to 22 and it was trying to die, better than it flooding itself like before. Thinking maybe I need to move the acc vs tps from the 80 to 130 like you said in the aces video. Also when given throttle it revs then acts like it's cut off or starved which would be the lean part I sappose.
If it is not going into closed loop make sure the system voltage is good. I see this a lot with remote mount batteries using the wrong gauge wire to the system causing a slight voltage drop not allowing the o2 heater circuit to get hot enough to tell the system it has enough resistance to operate.
@actionvulture5251 I am building a 454 with all new everything except crank and block. I have the royal flush kit with your distributor and fuel system. My concern is on startup I need the system to be relatively stable so I can break in the cam and set the rings safely. Is there someone I can send my engine specs and components to who can write a safe base tune so I can break in the engine properly?
Start it up on a HEI with no timing control and make sure the o2 sensor is in a good spot and call my office. I can see if I can give some better advice.
Thinking about this with my 302 build. On the fence as my truck doesn’t have a tach. I have a good carb and could just do break in then swap to efi after.
Pretty cool my question is why so Rich 13.5 seems rich to me at idle my friends mustang runs 15- 16 at idle thats were his tuner set it, when i put my killshot on simple table and go for those afrs after i get on it it wants to stall i have wot at 12.4
I like 14.4 at idle , 15 at cruise and 12.4 at wot problem is on 2d it seems to keep the target afr at 13.5 on simple fuel settings if I go wot to hard break it stalls , I really wanna set up the 2d table can i do this thru the hand held , im also still having that idle surge problem but not as bad now that i locked the timing, it's intermittent and when it does it it's only on starts once it stops im good for that ride
So typically a good starting point is 12.5 to 13.5 afr for idle helps get a stable idle. You can definitely lean it out to 14.7 or what ever if you get a smooth idle that is great. I don't see an issue idling mid 13s if it makes it run smoother and stronger. Nothing wrong with a lean idle unless it is weak or surges. Too lean it will be weak and stall. Too rich it will fowl plugs and run rough. Also it can smell rich either rich or lean as the burn isn't complete . I'd start out targeting about 13 afr idle. Then if it likes it move towards 15 to save a tiny amount of fuel. But find a nice spot where your idle is smooth and strong idle so it drives nice. Every engine is built different and tuning for that is great. Typically mid 12s to mid 13s is the strongest idle mixture. Why I say that is absolutely fine.
@@actionvulture5251 Awesome, thanks! I'll be starting my install this weekend. I've watched the Aces tech channel and yours over the past week, learning what I can prior to starting.
@@actionvulture5251 Tim, right? Ok, so I am planning to run an HEI with mechanical advance, do you believe Aces distributor/coil & controlling timing is better than a 400 Pontiac mechanical advance? I realize as a product developer/tech support you're potentially biased, but wanna hear your two cents. Also, any recommendations for getting creative on making the car harder to steal? I know that's an odd question.
@@actionvulture5251 69 GTO - 400/400, Killshot, in tank E85 capable pump, 10 micron filter, 3/8 steel fuel line, PFTE where slight movement or ease of maint necessitates placement. Dual or single plane? 42-48 PSI, what do you recommend?
Any idea why my system wants to be super lean on deceleration? While my foot is working the petal it's fine and even for a sec or two after but then my afr reads upwards of 20 and I'll get some popping.
Deceleration fuel cut off. Throttle closed it goes lean to help prevent The excess fuel from reigniting when it comes in contact with the atmosphere. Also known as DEFCO
That’s wild. I wonder if the distributor pickup is messed up. I had one that was bad once and it would only have two injectors. I got it swapped out and it was good to go. Make sure when you ran the wizard it is set to magnetic.
@@actionvulture5251 it is set to magnetic. It is locked out and installed at 15° BTDC. Fuel pressure is at 58.5 psi Is there anything I can test before blaming the distributor? I've installed a few Sniper units so I'm fairly experienced with these types of efi systems. Ide really hate to start sending stuff back already.
@@actionvulture5251 Happy Thanksgiving! I did an update on the ECU and handheld with no success. Even on initial start when the fuel pump primes only one injector shoots fuel. Is this normal on startup or should all four inject? If all four are supposed to fire on prime that would eliminate the distributor for being at fault, correct?
Happy you seen that. The temp was not all the way up yet. Also I decreased the idle timing to add a bit to the cam noise so it takes more through the iac as a side effect. If I increased the timing it would lower the iac value. If you get a chance play with that some to see. Set your iac to 20 then take away idle timing and see what it does.
