Thanks I appreciate it. I used a dremel with conned stone. If you look into the ejection port you'll see the cast overspill on the upper right corner and along the right side. Basically work the metal down to mimic the shape of the outer opening. Be sure to clean thoroughly after as metal shavings will find their way into all the small nooks and crannies. Do a test fire. If same problem, shave more. Continue until you get clean ejections. Make sure your ejector rod isn't bent also! Good luck!
Love my brand new 10/22 take-down. Ran 300 rounds no problem put in about $50 worth of Kidd parts for preventive maintenance. Extractor / auto bolt release/ recoil rod & spring /SS mag plunger/ receiver pins/ bolt buffer. Ran about 600 more rounds no problems and also installed front and rear sights from William sights model # ace in the hole sight
There may be more to this. I checked my failing rifle that I bought used and that upper rail guide is chewed up by the previous owner. It looks like they used a knife to pry out the empty cases making the situation even worse. I'm going to eliminate that part of the guide like you showed, straighten out the rest of the guide and buy another ejector. The ejectors don't cost that much and I want a level of dependability. It's unfortunate that the 10/22 has the same problem the 1911 has. Too many off market parts leading to all kinds of problems and then people who don't understand the basics making things worse. Thank you for the advice and your knowledge.
Great Video! verified I had the same flashing issue, grabbed my dremel from work and in less than 5 minutes cleaned it up. Not one stovepipe jam today in 200 rounds whereas I was getting one to two per 10 round mag, or 5-6 with a 25 Butler Creek. I also adjusted the mag release plunger per some other videos regarding feed issues (especially on Butler Creek) and only had 5-6 miss feeds during my entire day of shooting today instead of that many per 25rd mag!! Thanks Again and ... GO RIDERS!!
The issue I had with mine was the extractor slot cut in the barrel wasn't deep enough. Upon firing, the gasses would blow the shell out of the chamber, cycling the bolt, completely missing the extractor. The extractor and ejector have to work in conjunction for a proper spent casing ejection. If the extractor doesn't engage the shell, it never leverages against the ejector, simply bouncing off the bolt face causing a stove pipe. Cheap ammo will not cause a stove pipe unless it's out of tolerance causing the extractor to slip off.
I bought a Ruger 10/22 take down in 2019, out of the box I had stove pipe jamming problems, I called Ruger and they picked it up and did something what I don't know and sent it back stating I should use CCI ammo, good luck with that, NONE to be had. I had the same problem, but fewer jams the ammunitions used made no difference I called up and spoke to a customer service lady and she told me that Ruger had changed vendors that were making their 10 round magazines she sent me two replacements and they had a slightly different geometry in the red feeder part and also the ramp was slightly different as well, the stovepipe problem was solved using the same ammunition made in Malaysia as well as some American ammo, next the trigger pull is really hard I would say over 6lbs. I found a great kit on eBay from VOLQUARTSEN Hammer and springs kit #VC10th for less than $40.00 sales tax was extra and free shipping that had a beautifully made and appears to be polished hammer and a number of replacement springs, shims and spacers, since I am not a gun smith it took me many hours to remove the trigger and all associated parts and reinstall everything. Now the trigger pull is a nice smooth 2-1/2 lbs. trigger pull and NO jams the same as my Ruger 10/22 I bought in the early 1960's also shoots nice tight groups that blow out the 5/8" circle at 25 yards, not bad for an 80 years old man that has not shot anything in many years.
I have two 10/22's produced in the last 6 months and they both have these problems. I sent one back to Ruger and got it back. With BX-25 i notice that it ejects shells to the 3 oclock position. There was only 1 failure in 120 and it was a failure to feed not eject (I think I bent the round with the butler creek loader). With steel lips and HC3R magazines,which like to eject between the 12 and 1 oclock position I still have the problem. Are you 100% this fixed yours? How many rounds since?
I will look into this, thanks. My rifle is a carbine deluxe, stupid accurate, but with a BX mag, at least one every mag a stovepipe. It is not a stovepipe jam like my NAA 380 can be, easy to clear, and I have ruled out the ammo after 250 rounds. I do love this gun I have!
sorry but I fail to see how this would help ejection? the empty casing doesn't eject till way further back. the ejector is on the magazine itself. even ejecting a live round the bullet is far enough back this area would have no problem at all when ejecting a round with no magazine in the gun, there is a second ejector further back. the bolt has to be all the way back so this mod would do nothing at all in both cases
the ejector is not on the magazine.. the ejector on a 10/22 is part of the trigger group, and as the bolt comes back far enough it rides over the ejector and pushes the spent casing outward.
I stand corrected(no shame). The original design of the 1022 was meant to use the ejector in the trigger group, but due to having issues with this setup they added the ejector to the feed lips on the magazines(you wont find this on first production magazines). Therefore you were correct that the spent casing is caused to eject by the left side lip on the magazine. But when you go to order an ejector you will only see the trigger group ejector offered for sale.
Tempted to just buy a non-Ruger receiver. Time to go get the Dremel tool I guess. Thanks for the video! I've been struggling to understand why I stovepipe every other round even after a new extractor.
Did you use a Dremel or a file? Can you describe how you went about it working on the burr? I have the exact same model and problem. Thanks - and I really appreciate the video. Well done.
considering I bought This brand new out of the box I shouldn't have to do a damn thing to this gun fuck Ruger for making this cheap piece of shit very inconsistent my brother has one he claims he never had a problem I shot mine brand new outta box and that shit happened very disappointed
Just bought a brand new 10/22 take-down ran 300 rounds no problem. Bought and installed few Kidd parts for prevented maintenance Extractor / auto bolt release/ receiver pins/ guide rod & springs/ SS mag latch plunger/ bolt buffer.. I think everything was $50, Ruger 10/22 need a little TLC your 100% correct you buy something brand new you shouldn't have to invest money into it but can't expect perfection out of a $360 rifle.. I have put in 600 more rounds not one problem . Hope this helps best of luck and be safe.
Chase Duncan 1022's are the best 22 fire arms on the market,what you must understand is that 22 bulk ammo ranges from garbage to ok,and the only way you will avoid malfuntions is to shoot cci minimags all the time.
