10-2 wire is only rated for 30 amps. You need #6 wire to meet code. You don’t need check valves on the tank outlets. It will work just fine without them.
From what I've read this compressor is only running at 15 amps and around 28 on start up. I did go back and run another 10/2 wire for each compressor running off 2 separate 30 amp breakers. And I did put check valves in just to be on the safe side so one isn't pumping into the other and vice versa.
So why are you running them as essentially parallel? The lines can only “take” so much pressure, so it’s not like any line needs both going at once, ever, kinda. I didn’t see a description of your intent in your description. But I assume it’s to get more CFM without going to a bigger horsepower compressor motors. It certainly wasn’t because of price or space, cause you obviously just spent at least $1500 on that pair, at least. And space wise, your setup is easily taking up MORE space than an average commercial shop set-up. I’m doing a garage setup, and I don’t like to disturb my neighbors or my family too much. Especially since I prefer to get deep into the work late at night when people are least likely to interrupt my Zenned out paint and body evolutionary experience. Sometimes dotted with cursing and throwing the odd tool, but that’s very rare. And when I say Zen, I mean seriously absorbing this thing to beat the odds and gain the ability to take care of my friends and family’s vehicles when they get cosmetic issues. And I thought I knew a lot about auto body and paint a year ago. I know plenty about repair, and I’ve done tons of “touch-ups”, and have realized that the ones which turned out well were straight up luck. This is defiantly a skill set where cutting corners and “work-around” dint really exist. Besides the obvious need for meticulous cleaning of the space, and full- tilt decontamination of all potential sources of petroleum or silicon based materials, even old previously opened oil containers or a bottle of polish, unopened, can be risky. That’s what the veteran at my local paint supply said. They said that residue left on the bottle or anywhere in the space can become airborne at any given time, mostly because of the new temp variations and airflow. Since we would never be able to trace these particles in real time, we can only see the evidence of contamination in the form of fisheyes, on what was the cleanest panel you’ve ever seen just before paint. And that’s the problem. There are so many variables that you really have to push hard to deal with every issue if you are gonna have any real chance of getting the results you want from yourself. For example, I’ve painted the hood of my mom’s ML320 with Mercedes 040 Black………so many times I truly lost count. Maybe twenty times, with the fifth time being the LAST TIME, I guaranteed my self. Anyway, I’ve learned a lot. To mitigate orange peel, airflow and mix has got to be dead-on, and also consistent. Even though it SEEMS like the air gun is getting 25psi for twenty minutes straight, it is not, when you have a 2 hp, 5 gallon compressor. So I decided to use my original smaller comp to keep the new bigger one “topped off”, and I still can’t tell how effective the result has been. I have the big one as the one for the paint gun, it’s 26 gallons, and the little one is like 7 gallons and 1.5 hp. I have the regulators on the pumps set so that when the big one falls below a certain pressure, the other one kicks in, “thinking” that the bigger one is a “tool” in need of more air. But the variables of compressed air are too much to really figure my resist.
