While moose hunting on the Athabasca River in Alberta in 1980 the guide used 20 ft lightweight aluminum boats with 20 hp Mercury motors equipped with an add-on cavitation plate called the "Riffle Runner". It fit sealed at the cavitation plate and the motor was raised and set back 6 or 7 inches to keep the prop above the transom lower edge. The Riffle Runner had a forward lip that sloped down to the transom edge and sidewalls back to behind the prop so solid water fed up into the Riffle Runner and around the prop before discharging out the open back, much like having a tunnel hull boat. We would run up river about 10 miles before light and hunt while drifting down the river. The Athabasca was full of rapids but the Riffle Runner on the 20 hp Merc scooted us over shallow water nicely and only cavitated if turned too sharply. We sheared a couple of pins over a 10 day period but that was impressive performance considering the river conditions. Everything had to be flown in to the hunting camp and the guide had 50 hp engines with jet pumps scattered around under the birch trees, no longer operable because of repeated pump failures. The Riffle Runners solved the shallow water problem and the 20 hp engines burned a whole lot less gas than the larger engines pushing jets. Pretty impressive, overall. The Riffle Runner is no longer made but I managed to scrounge a few pictures before they disappeared off the Internet. I keep thinking I will make one, someday. Maybe. Jess
Great summary! Four blade and cupping is required, IMHO. One point missed is setback. Without a tunnel, the farther back the engine is set back, it will allow the water to rise after releasing from the transom giving a critical inch or more of additional shallow running...
Good information, especially about the Shaw Wing. I have yet to get one because I didn't know who manufactured them. Currently researching best option for my skiff, I'm running a 40 HP Tohatsu and leaning towards a Bob's Machine micro jack plate. Totally agree with the grass burner comments, It tears up habitat for the fish. Looking for a good used one if possible or I'll be looking at around 1K or more.
There's the Bob's and there's the one I see a lot by TH Marine - the Atlas Micro Jacker. I wonder which one is better? I am also wondering if a cav plate like the Shallow Blaster compares to the Shaw Wing? It looks in pictures, like the Blaster is more "flexible" than the Shaw Wing. Next question is - flexibility good, or flexibility bad?
There's another Jack Plate that is coming on like gangbusters! Hull Marine Products - hullmarineproducts.com/ - Bullet PROOF but heavier and cost significant money. HULL MARINE.
I will say I have had allot of experience with the Shaw Wing and shallow running. Kevin Shaw is the owner of Fibertex and designer of the Shaw wing. I’m a regular customer as I buy materials from him to do my own fiberglass work. I have thought about making my own cav plate as they are not hard to make from fiberglass but at the end of they day it’s more cost and time effective to just buy a made plate from Kevin you know works. It’s laid up with biaxial and mat glass thick enough that I’ve even had to stand on mine to untangle line from my prop and it held me at 6’4” 275lb hanging off the engine and standing on my Shaw wing. I ran my Shaw wing on my 225 ocean pro and ran a prop with extreme cup (bravo 1 xc prop) the Shaw wing does a few things. It acts as a ski to help level the boat during hole shot to improve time and distance to plane. And then once on plane it directs water to the prop. This is why it’s important to run a prop with good amount of cup when running a wing as the cup in the prop bites harder to the water being directed to the prop as apposed to the bullet of the gear case being run full submerged below the natural water line. The end goal is to run the engine far above the natural water line allowing for shallower running. The Shaw wing works and it’s made heavy duty. I highly recommend it as well and Kevin is a great source of you have any questions about it.
Texas Fly Caster no problem, I enjoyed your video. I just picked up a ranger banshee to fish shallow waters and I was looking around for videos because I am going to change it’s set up. It’s unfortunately propped wrong and needs a wing. I came across your video while browsing around and it’s great to see someone talking about boat set up for shallow water fishing and running.
Yeah, I am too - once I save up enough box tops! Really though, this video - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-o253yrZ9sFo.html - just goes to show you that even a $70K half carbon fibre build Chittum needs a Shaw Wing - fibertexandsupply.com/product/shaw-wing-cavitation-plate/
Starting to get mixed messages about tunnel, and after taking a little spin on a Chittum Laguna Madre II with no tunnel? I might have to be persuaded again about tunnels. The hole shot counts, but otherwise? I shot some video while being poled, but it's pretty short - and made me dizzy going in circles on a pivot point and backwards just as fast as forwards (in a 15mph wind).
Spent a few days on a BRAND NEW Chittum Laguna Madre II this past week, and let me tell you - I BELIEVE A SHAW WING is integral to performance in true TEXAS habitat. This skiff has a tunnel and is vented as well. It runs a 15" Tohatsu 60 and has a Atlas Micro Jacker and a spacer between those.
There are a ton of regional boatmakers along the Texas Gulf Coast. That doesn't mean they're cheap though! If you fly fish exclusively, then that narrows it down, if you want to go extremely fast, that narrows it down ... you get the idea. Find your priorities and they will begin to narrow down your choices. Generally, I think Florida poling skiffs and technical poling skiffs are still behind on what it takes, and what it means to run SKINNY in Texas. However, if you did narrow it down to a Florida skiff, there is a lot that you can do to get it Texas skinny, and I am still learning about that.
A Jackplate would do you great! “Bobs Jackplate “ action series would allow you to get on plane in super shallow water. I fish the Northwest Florida ( big bend area) We have super shallow grass flats , it’s almost a must here to be efficient. You won’t be disappointed!
I think the “Bobs” are for a heavier weight class motor? But still real good jackplate! That Atlas Micro sometimes gets used on motors that are too heavy IMO.
@@tommyluke6407 Yes, looking at it - bobsmachine.com/product/mini-action-jack-plate-50hp-max-bolt-or-clamp-6-adjustable/ - there is a lot to like about their mini! I especially like the open design so that you can get to the hydraulic ram - and it's placed dead center too.
Absolutely, I run the action because it has a actuator and there is no need for a pump or tank. Also if it goes bad the actuator can be replaced without having to buy an entire harness and seals . I have been running them for a long time. They have excellent customer service and they are 100% made in America . I like being able to get out of the creeks by getting up on plane quickly. I have a 6” action jacker with a 150vmax and when it’s raised all the way up and trim all the way down I can get on plane in 18” of water. Which is great for my heavy barge .I have been thinking about a cavitation plate . My prop sometimes looses water , so it spins out . I think the plate would hold enough water to not allow the prop to loose traction.
@@thepeople4142 Sounds unique to say the least! So no real reflection on the ability of a cavitation plate really, right? I am more convinced than ever after my week in Port O Texas this past week.
@@Texasflycaster they work. I got mine first then added the 4 blade sww prop then the low water pickup then raised the motor stupid high.... Rendering it useless.
@@martingomezjr7943 I have a 18 redfisher jackplated that cavs and has a porposing issue. Mine isnt a tunnel hull but can you run one of those Stiiffy or other Cav plates?
@@stephenmikulec642 Seems like you might need trim tabs? Shoot pix and send to texasflycaster@gmail.com maybe I can circulate them and get some diagnosis. Sorry for such a late response!
The motor was on its max high bolt and still inches too low. Basically setup for Florida shallow. I think it probably needed 12” and now I’d bet on 8” pretty safely with jackplate.
