Awesome tech video , I was in service business for 42 years , I can tell an awesome tech from a fake !! This guy Josh is the real deal !! No ums and ahhs from this guy. He explained everything to a tea !very knowledgeable tech ,keep it up!!
I’ve been searching for a good part of the day for this explanation. This is the most definitive, understandable explanation that I have found. Awesome thank you.
This is by far the best video i've seen on RU-vid about RV wiring. He was very clear, and no wasted time on BS. i'd LOOOVE to see an install with duel 50amp !
You are my hero! On a cross country road trip and no DC power when connected to shore power, converter works (fan runs when first turned on) Your explanation of the 2 x 40 fuses was the answer! And I just picked up spare fuses for this trip. You saved us hundreds of $$$ and days in repair service! Thank you, Catherine
Thanks for this video. I bought a trailer with no battery, and it wasn't even wired for a battery. I was able to wire up the battery and check all circuits, plug 7 pin connector into truck and start truck, and verify the battery was charging when the vehicle was running. I had no idea how to do all this until watching this! Thanks!
I have stray AC voltage on my 2021 aspentrail travel trailer my wife got a bad shock just leaning up against it I checked it with a little voltage tester and it definitely has AC voltage on the bumper and structure of the camper while plugged in I'm making a appointment with dutchmen dealer tomorrow to bring it in Thank you for that video very well explained video for us newbies to the camping world 🌎
I really like how in depth you go into explaining how things operate... BUT i didnt see anything that can help me with the issue that i currently am struggling with. First time RV owner so i am so lost. Heres the issue. of course i am hooked up to shore power and been this way for 1 and a half years now and only last night the problem happened and have not found a simple answer. I have a '95 Leprechaun Motorcoach that is a type C and is 28 ft long and no tip-outs. The RV is a 30 amp system. BUT the distribution panel started to cut power and switching over to 12v works just fine as this issue is still persisting 24hrs later, BUT when i went to check the fuses which were all good but none were actually tripped. (and for the sake of argument, lets just say its called a soft trip) so i started to research more this morning as what may cause it but nothing. All 3 of my GFI are good as 2 are brand new this year. So as i watched clips hoping to find the right clip to help guide me i shut off all 5 house fuses and tested each circuit individually and really the only 2 circuts that really made the D.panel spaz out was the 15 amp convertor (which has not been plugged in at all since i took possession of my new home and i charge the battery by using a fairly decent battery charger that also performs a "reverse charging" if it is slected.) but when the convertor is plugged in, it sounds like im living next to a power plant (the loud and ominous humming sounds) ... and the portable appliance circuit. I unplugged any and all appliances and retested the circuit, and both circuits would stay on for about 20 seconds before it started to freak out and couldnt make up its mind if it was running on 12 or 110v. i removed the circuit boards from the W.H. and reefer and seen nothing blackened. Common sense tells me that the convertor is dying a slow and very painful death, but common sense also tells me that i should go out and hold an aluminum pole during a lightning storm too, Both of these mentioned appliances do run off 110 and 12v. when there is no load on these circuits , the P.D.P. is fine and no soft trips or the need to reset the tripped breakers. I know im doing something wrong, i just refuse to remove my glove and put my fingers on it for fear of getting shocked. Any pointers that you can give? any help would be so very greatly appreciated.
@austinwagner7507 I'm a bit confused about your explination about the problem...it sounds like you have a 120 volt circuit breaker tripping that is labeled " converter". If that is the case many times a converter will share a circuit with another appliance, that being said, converter fans will be very loud under a heavy load as the fan(s) are trying to cool it down. This usually occurs when your " house" or " coach" batteries need to be replaced. This is because the converter is baring the entire 12 volt DC load with no help from a good battery. That would be my first check.....verify the "coach" battery is good under load. Hope that helps, if not hit me up again.
Just fixed my inverter problem first time out with my new to me 2009 keystone passport 300bh! Thank you saved my family’s weekend! The 2 40amp fuses for battery reversal were bad. So was draining my battery even though I was hooked up to the pole.
Great video. Thank you. I have one 15 amp fuse that blows every time I turn the switch for the LED awning lighting and then red light next to the fuse would light up. Now the red light does not come on but the fuse still trips. I need to do some troubleshooting and your video is a great resource. Fairly new to travel trailers.
Sounds like a short in the wiring to the LED or a shorted LED strip.. I would cut the wires to the LED strip to isolate the issue. If it persists after it's cut.... it's the RV, if it stops it's the LED strip
Josh THANK YOU for your explaining thoroughly on your videos. We are new camper owners and you have alot of great information for newbies like me. THANK YOU THANK YOU.!!!!!!
oh.. so when you plug in to shore power youre not powering your breaker box, youre powering the "battery charger" which has an output to 110v for the AC side and an output for 12v for the DC side.. and the "battery charger" is just an inverter that has a circuit to step the 110v down to 12v to be used for both AC and DC? and what happens when shore power is disconnected, the 12v battery now powers the inverter circuit of the "battery charger" and everything works like normal until the battery dies? or is an inverter a separate thing? do all campers not have an inverter? This video answered some questions and gave me a bunch more questions. lol
First of all Thank you! Lots of good feedback here and wonderful compliments. I have a 1973 Chinook and I’ve seen one in its original “city” wiring. It explained how mine used to work. It has been updated and when I bought it, I didn’t get a good look at the box, and thought when I upgraded it lithium batteries, I’d get the legend updated. I have to figure out what powers what from the AC and DC sides. Slowly, I have made some progress. Your video has help how to look at it from a sensible perspective. The one question I have is about the Busbar that you mentioned that is inside, which I must have as well, but I do have an external Busbar against the wall feeding other things. How is this Busbar different from the one inside the box? There’s a tool for testing unknown breaker to receptacles or switches, is there anything for testing a camper? Again, thanks.
Well,done.. I’m wiring up my tiny home using this same panel from my Forrest River travel trailer that Seattle interstates killed this summer. I’m sure I’ll have a lot of questions come up. I’m trying to figure out the most ideal place to mount all this stuff. I understand the AC side from doing remodels but dc is new to me. This video helped a lot.
I’m greatful for such a video since I’m new to this and my trailer is a used Koala! I don’t have any kind of owners manual! This gives me a place to start to solve the problem. I had it plugged into house current to help prevent freezing up then checked on it yesterday morning and discovered it had actually caused my house breaker to trip! So at least I have a direction to start investigating!
@@phillipjones3342 disconnect the RVs shore cable from the pole. Pull down on the top of the breaker you want to change, then disconnect the wire. Then do the same in reverse with the new one. Best of luck!
Thank you so much for your video. A Harvest Host had just had an electrician install a post which fit my RV plug . I plugged in my surge protector and didn’t check the lights on the protector, this of course was my fault. I found out a little while later it was 220 . I blew the converter and fried the microwave when I turned it on . My question to you is at the time I was connected wrong why didn’t it blow my two TV’s or my outlets in the coach. Thanks again for taking time to post .
It depends on how the appliance is wired, it always kills microwaves, converter and older TVS, but new tvs seem to survive. Sorry that happened to you bud!
I have the same distribution box on my Wolfpup. Do you know if these will be ok to charge a LifePO4 battery with an on board BMS? The 13.6V charge output seems a little high, but maybe the LifePO4 BMS can regulate that ok?
Thanks for sharing your experience and expertise - much appreciated - new subscriber here. Used to be professional furniture maker who shared my knowledge and glad to see you doing that here. Congrats on your family business
Best explanation video on this. I have a panel light on in the fuse box for the slide that's been on for months. It blows new fuses instantly. Neverminded it but with the west coast fires... might have needed to slide in quick and leave. I'm looking for videos on slide outs to fix this
Excellent video. I have a Holiday Rambler Motor Home and am interested in finding out more about the chassis and coach disconnect. Do you have a video showing how these switches function?
Thank you for this video, much appreciated. I just bought two 100 AH lithium batteries to go in my Airstream. My question is : can I just connect those two batteries and go or not? And also, do you have a video on how to install an inverter and how to connect the whole thing to the power distribution panel ? Thank you for your comments. Sellig
Excellent explanation, thus is takes me to ask the following question: I have in the RV a Solar Panel System, composed of 400Watts, MPPT Charger Controller 40Amp/12V/24V, the system is connected in parallel / series obtaining 24V, an Inverter 3000/7000 watts, DC to DC charger, 4 Gel Batteries 200Amp/h. My question is, can I add a circuit braker to the exiting electrical control panel to select/chose which source of power to use? Generator, Solar or Output Power (from an external outlet).
No you would need to add a transfer switch, run both sources to it with one output to breaker box. If you add a breaker to the buss bar there is a potential to power all breakers with shore and inverter simultaneously causing 220 vac and damaging everything.
One question, on the main panel of an RV, on the AC side, there's two breakers and had a label, a sticker that say " lightning", so it means that is for all the lights inside the RV, because here you tell us that the lights supply comes from the 12 Volt side, how is that?
I bought a 35' terry camper. Im trying to trace the wire that feedsvthe receptical I found that I've got power to them in the back half in my gfi in the bathroom there's the wire that feeds it and one that continues to the next one but they next one its an exterior one its only has 1wire in it they next one that's interior same thing 1wire in took the paneling off and there's a metal tube where a wire should have been but no wire what I would like to find is a diagrams showing me where they ran the wires origanaly
My friend has a 5th wheel and they hooked it up to a double 30amp breaker in their house panel. The line only runs 15ft to the plug in. Every time they try flipping that Double 30 breaker it flips a 15amp breaker in the RV panel and then there's no power at all. I can't even have the power on long enough to check for power input. I'm at a loss please help
Thorough overview! I'm in the process of replacing my converter with an inverter/charger connected to solar. It gets confusing because right now, the DC on my RV can work even without a battery because (as I understand from this video) the AC side is powering the DC side through the converter and does not need a battery. Essentially, the converter acts like a battery. When I switch to an inverter/charger, my suspicion is that I won't be able to power the DC without a battery because inverter/chargers use the AC input to the converter and the DC panel is only powered by the batteries -- which is fine because when plugged into shore power, the inverter/charger will be providing power to the batteries to keep them charged as they provide DC direct to the loads. Please correct me if I'm wrong. It would be awesome if you did a video about replacing a converter with an inverter/charger!
Hello Mark, thank you for watching my video! So depending on the "inverter/charger" that you have purchased most of them are converter/inverters so they will do both; Convert 120 vAC TO DC and invert 12 v DC to 120 vAC, basically you will still have what you have now but you are gaining the option of the inverter. Hope that helps!
Wonderful video. So many helpful bits of information, yet presented so well it's all easy to comprehend.. As a first time owner of a travel trailer I just subscribed and look forward to learning more from you through your other videos. Thank you kindly for taking the time to make this video!
Thank you for your video is very informative. Helped me a lot. I have a quick question during the voltage meter test. I tested from ground to the breaker. And I did not get the 113 voltage. I do get the 113v from the neutral. Any thoughts on that, please
At the last minute of your video you saved me. I had two LED lights on. Had no clue and didnt notice. I went to a campsite and had no power coming inside. I think my microwave worked and that was it. Even with the main power switch off. My RV would somewhat be powered with my generator running but only half the RV worked. Once you turned off the generator my battery would die fast. It was two blow 15 amp and two 40amp fuses blown. Thank you for showing how to check the battery. Mine may need to be replaced. Also is that voltage device your using the one I will need?
Mr. RV. This video has been very useful to me. As I have been searching to find out how the Converter connects to the DC Distribution side and then if only the RED + goes to the battery or both RED + Black. I see how it is. Questions.... The Red 10 AWG or 8 AWG wire does it connect to the Battery Disconnect switch (Kill Switch)? or connects to the Battery directly?
You did an excellent job explaining the 30 amp WFCO distribution panel. I am trying to troubleshoot and issue in my sons Keystone rv trailer. 2 overhead lights do not work. I first checked the bulbs and the all appear to be good. Checked the fuse and it is good, even tried a new fuse. When pulling the fuse the led light does not come on. All other circuits the led lights does come on when fuse is pulled. Checked voltage to circuit on ground lug and power lug and got 13.78. Check the ground wire on ground bar and cut back to fresh wire and reinstalled. Sounded like ground issue to me. I also moved the hot wire to different unused circuit and had same problem. I am wondering could the light fixture be bad?
Check power with a meter at the light socket and if no power check power coming out of the breaker if power is there then u have a broken wire somewhere
Great video! Have had my camper for years and my power supply has never charged the battery ever since I bought it, not sure what to do and not wanting to spend more than $500 on a shop replacing it, resorted to just using a trickle when at the campsite from shore power. Now after watching this I can go back and do some testing, any recommendations I would love! Thanks
Could just be blown fuses for the converter, but the converter may be bad. Also, keep in mind that if there is a battery disconnect switch, some are wired to disconnect the battery and converter. Hope it helps, thanks for watching!
Could you (or have you?) show an older rv with older distribution boxes? They are the ones more likely to need troubleshooting. I certainly would appreciate it. I don't even see a converter. 😮😢 Thank you in advance and for all you do to help.
Nicely done, probably best of these I’ve seen. Fortunately, I know most of this, but you kept it interesting without wasting time. That brand converter seems to be standard, at least in all entry to mid level pull behinds I’ve seen in videos. If functioning, is there really need to upgrade, say, for multistage charging?
Your podcast was very helpful! I'm working on installing an inverter and want to run my power cord off the inverter into the outside 30amp plug in for now. Do I need to install a separate 15amp circuit breaker for the converter in order to shut it off while I'm using the inverter?
Thank you for your informative video. I need to replace the 7-Pin Cable assembly on my 27’ Airstream Globetrotter. Is this something that would need to be done by a professional? Or can a competent handyman type person do this? Do you know if that cable runs from the plug all the way to the distribution panel? That would be a long way. Any guidance you can give me would be much appreciated.
If the door latch mechanism on the entry door is worn out; how would you go about fixing it? No one seem to carry replacement for that era. 1999 Rexhall Aerbus.
Thank you for this great video. My issue is , my converter doesn’t work… sometimes. I have solar so it doesn’t matter most of the time, but if I’m hooked up to shore power in the shade my batteries (lithium-ion )go dead. If I’m not in the shade my converter works. How does the converter turn on & off? Does it run continuously or on remand? Thanks!
Excellent exposition to understand easily, thanks, a question on the hot water bracket and Refer, when this of the cable says current, but I put it on and the cable says no current, the other braket cables are the opposite. Thanks for the reply George.
Hello, excellent video, very clear in its explanation. If possible, I would like to ask you a connection question. I have a pop up camper, nothing very complex. It has a 12v battery. My question is the following. At this time the battery of the camper is charged with the truck, when it is connected and when it is parked it is charged with the energy of the car. What I want to do is charge the battery with a solar panel that I am going to install or with city power, when it is connected. Can this change be automatic, that is, during the day, while there is light, the battery is charged with the panel and at night it is charged with the energy of the city, can it be done? and if possible please guide me how to do it. Thank you very much in advance for your help
@@MRRVTECH Thank you very much for your prompt response. No, my question is do you know how to charge the camper battery using the solar panel that I am going to install or when there is no sun during the day, will the battery automatically begin to charge with energy from the city or at the campsite? where we are. Thanks
very informational. I am installing a inverter/ charger in my 2008 forest river. as long as I disconnect the black load side and white neutral of my existing converter, that will disable it? I am still able to use the 12 volt connections as a distribution panel, correct? Thank you for your help!
I tested my battery and the wires that comes into the trailer and both have power. But there is no DC power coming into the distribution box at all. Where can I test next to see what's wrong? None of the fuses on the distribution panel are blown. If I plugged in the shoreline power then everything in the RV works fine.
Thanks for a great video. Is the box the likely cause of no 12v DC if not plugged in to 110v (house lights, hood fan, hood light, water pump do not work) however house lights do work when plugged in to DC (but hood light, fan, watered pump still do not work - although hood indicator lights DO work.). Occurred after shop replaced my house batteries.
Thanks for this video! On the AC side I'm getting 118v for each breaker when pairing with neutral, but only 75v for each breaker when pairing with ground. Any thoughts on the significance of this and if it poses any concern? On the DC side everything checks out with 13.6v, but the last owners put in a 24v marine battery - but that can't charge past the 13.6v being sent to the battery right? I don't understand why they would use a battery with higher voltage than the system, unless I'm not understanding something which is quite possible! Appreciate the tutorial!
Excellent video, i have a question about power, our 2019 wildwood xlite 30ft trailer, It does not have any power while plugged into the truck, while parked.
Hi Josh, great videos. My Grand Design, Imagine 2500RL didn't come with an inverter. I plan to install a 2000 watt model. I am planning to use my 30amp power cord with a dog bone connecting to the inverter. Does this make sense? I would like to see a wiring diagram that you might recommend if possible as to best way to do this. Rich
You need to buy a pass through model and integrate it into your breaker box or sub panel to only power specific circuits, I would not attempt to plug your shore power cable into a 2000 watt inverter, you will be sorely disappointed. Also, you must have a large battery bank in your 5th wheel to support 2000W inverter?
Just for clarity, in the United Sates we use 120 volt power, and not 110 volts. There is variation in power delivery that can result in voltage lower than 120, and there is power drop through resistive wiring within homes and RVs that results in lower voltage a far-off plugs. AC delivery is also a sine wave, so voltage is constantly changing. In my opinion, electricians should do away with describing AC power as 110 volt.
Just for clarification AC voltage in the US has an acceptable range of 108 VAC - 135 VAC. @ 57 - 63 Hz. All appliances and instruments are designed and engineered to work properly within that spectrum. Thanks for watching!
Ok first l would like you to know your video was very very informative. Second l had a problem with a detector constantly beeping so l inquired about it and many people disconnected theirs also, with that when l looked in the WFCO the red light was lit next to the propane label, l do know that is what was on the other side of the butt splice when l cut the CM/propane wires. Now when l go to replace the fuse and reconnect just the 2 wires of the propane will that light stay off or blow again. The CM detector is very annoying it goes off with no exaggeration at least 15 x’s a day. There is no leaks of any sort coming into the RV. We have it checked. This is a brand new RV less then 5 months. Please can you help me if you would like l can call you.
Lp and Co detectors are only good for 5 years. After that they can sound off like yours indicating replacement is needed. The other 2 things that will make it beep is a gas leak, presence of Carbon monoxide, or low voltage. Hope that helps.
MR RV TECH thank you so much l appreciate your reply. I went yesterday when l learned that the reason for the red light inside my panel box was a blown fuse. I replaced the fuse and it called for a 5 amp. It’s fine now but can l reconnect the propane wires alone without the Carbon monoxide wires? You mentioned maybe one of the reasons could be “low voltage”. These are the electronic tools l purchased yesterday, can you tell me which is going to help test my panel box to check for low voltage: GFCI Receptacle tester, AC Line Voltage Meter, AC/DC Voltage tester, it checks 120-480 of ac volts and 160-600 dc volts, l also bought a AC/ DC clamp meter, this seems to test quite a bit like 400 ac/dc, CAT III 600 V, true RMS, NCV. So which one will help me to see if l have any other major problems and resolve them. I do know your You Tube videos have helped immensely, just tell me which ones to watch so l can learn more important problem solving. Thank you so much for your time and help, it has been greatly appreciated.
@gosselinsergegs if your vehicle is equipped with a 7 pin plug and the RV manufacturer wired a charge line to your battery then yes your vehicles alternator will charge your RV battery.
