Rv Roof Replacement and rear wall rebuild on 2013 Heartland Gateway 

TPO is great on building flat roofs; here not sure.

I don't own either friend...kind of like a landscaper who had his yard paved...lol. Thanks for watching!

I am old...HAHA....brought the truck to the shop because it was not sounding right, squeaking and popping....mechanic says....sir....it's not the truck!

I prefer plywood but sometimes I'm forced to use OSB. If the coach is wider than 8 ft. Thanks for watching!

Appreciate you watching my friend. We try to educate folks on the problems we find and how bad they can fester in a camper. Just a meat and potatoes video...no frills, no fancy fancy intro... lol.

Buying a new one.... See you soon... Lol Thanks for watching!

USC code allows you to return it and get your money back. Here's the link. www.helpforlemoncars.com/blog/2019/08/jury-verdict-for-rv-owners-for-500000-against-winnebago-for-breach-of-warranty/

They work and function like a commercial curb. That's the proper way to install a low slope or flat roof. Thanks for watching!

I'm curious about how much this new roof costs. Is is more than the worth of a 2013 RV? Great video. Buyer beware.

They got a different motto...Get em built, Get em out, Get em sold. Thanks for watching!

I know I'm a sexy man....thanks for the props!

We wish we could open another shop but the fact of the matter is these rebuilds are harder and take longer than just a roof. Many of men have come and gone because they just have the skill set to rebuild a camper. Framers want to build it like a house. There is so much detail to consider and factor for long term results. Working on a class C now that had a tree go through and literally jacked the roof up and sailed the wall down 1.5 inches. What good is a roof if the structure under it is not done proper? Thanks for watching!

We use TPO, not rubber. This is commercial grade TPO. The same as you'd find on a commercial building. Thank you for watching!

We got to design a really cool super cape!

Thanks for watching. Maybe you'll pick up a trick or 2. I'm more of a restore than buy new. I got an old 91 YJ Jeep I'm messing with....or should I say mechanics messing with...lol. I don't have time to fix it. I work here too much. Maybe I'll build a camper, since I don't own one...lol.

Thank you. Our goal is to stop these problems from coming back. Some are poor design, others are just plain shoddy work and still yet they continue to use low quality products. Thank you for watching!

Yes, we have done solar prep for folks. We fabricate the mounts, drop wires and secure panels. However we do not actually do the electrical hook up. We did a 4x4 class C, several class As as well. Thanks for watching!

Thank you. We try hard to address all the elements and conditions these coaches go through to make them water tight and long lasting. Thanks for watching!

Mr. Jimmy, we do not quote on social media. Please call us during business hour 8-5 M-F 423.475.7663 Thank you for watching!

Trade every season. Is what you have to do.

@@soillife1 uhhhh. No. Learn to do minor repairs, big deal. Save tens of thousands. I live full time in a 20 year dutchman and almost everything works.

Most are aluminum skeleton frames. The aluminum isn't worth anything...cheap...low alloy, and they ain't tack weld...what I call snot weld...which has no strength and usually breaks due to the racking and flexing these coaches do. I would much rather a wood frame. At least you can glue and screw the frame together. Also the wood will be a bit more flexible with compromise compared the the rigid aluminum. If there is no allowance for flex the energy generated from the flexing has to go somewhere and usually will compromise the joints...welds...or the fasteners. Adhesive acts a buffer allowance for the flex. That absorbs the flexing energy without taxing fasteners and joints. Thanks for watching. Thanks for

Adhesive acts as a buffer. Fasteners can not handle all the flex and vibration.

Some flex is necessary.

I think you are misunderstanding the concept...of course flex is necessary and if course there is expansion and contraction, adhesives come in different forms for this reason. Actual wood adhesive that would be used in wood working has no flex. Other urethane type polymer adhesives have adhesion and and flex. The purpose to it allow for movement without taxing fasteners. Fasteners hold things in place and do have shear strength and tensile strength to some degree but that be is the fasteners. So when the fastener is in place the racking and flexing will wallow out the hole. That could cause a leak or the fastener to loosen. That's why there is subfloor adhesive...to prevent the squeaky floor which is due to nails not maintaining their tightness. All you need to do is read a tech data sheet and it will outline purpose, intent of application, proper installation, clean up and tolerances of movement, adhesion strength...all sorts of stuff. Most guys grab a product and go with it not knowing it intended purpose or compatibility. EI; silicone on rubber....doesn't work. Silicone won't stick to rubber. Now you know what you didn't know.

Folks need to know what to look for so the don't get taken by poor craftsmanship or campers already falling apart. Wouldn't you like to know if a camper had underlying issues before you were about to buy? Thanks for watching!

We are located in Ft. Oglethorpe Ga. our number is 423-475-7663

Thank you sir. Nobody want to do this job twice. Folks count on us to provide long lasting quality repairs and roof systems. We take that seriously. Thanks for watching.

No there is no other shop in Canada, USA or Mexico. We designed the roof system. We have had several folks come down from Canada. Thanks for watching.

Understand we don't quote on social media.

Please understand we don't quote on social media. Thanks for watching.

Depending on what the old stuff is. If it's butyl yes cut it back. If it's loose, no matter what it is, remove the loose or unadhered caulk. If it's silicone try remove as much as you can. Wash with denatured alcohol. Then apply new caulk. You may have a tough time getting anything to stick to old silicone. Not sure what you have on there. Just because it's clear doesn't mean it is silicone.

@@RVROOFINSTALL the factory caulk which looks to be lap seal.2015 rockwood travel trailer that the caulk is cracking on. Just bought needs removed and re caulked or as you put moron it.

I would not recommend using flexseal. Coating don't stop leaks despite what they are marketed as. If it days RV on it...I wouldn't buy it. Thanks for watching.

@@RVROOFINSTALL thanks man so construction adhesive is what I'm looking for?

@@2alawabidingcitzen im not understanding what it us you're doing?

@RV ROOF INSTALL on my travel trailer where the satellite is its sinking so I'm trying to see what I need to fix it.

@@2alawabidingcitzen it's sinking because the decking is rotted under it. Need to replace the decking to fix it proper. It will just keep in sinking and get worse causing water to pool in the sinked area...more leaks will come.

Now that's an interesting idea...

My only issue with this is future repair that may be needed. It would be a bugger to get the decking off with this stuff on it.

Way too rigid and cracks in the sun. Rv roofs need a certain degree of flexibility due to temperature charges and temperature differences.

Some coatings will crunch. It's the acrylic that is fracturing. Or it could be the roof deck delaminating . Not seeing leaks does not mean it is not leaking. When a roof leaks the roof deck will absorb what it can...then the framing, then the insulation and finally the ceiling panel. When you see a leak generally there is much more damage than you think. Leaks are chronic and can funnel in many directions even down walls where you won't see them until you do see them. We have opened up roofs that have surprised us on the extra damage. We do not quote on social media. contactus@rvroofinstall.com Thanks for watching.

We have replaced numerous roofs that had Filon roofs. Filon is no fiberglass. It's plastic reinforced with fiberglass. I'f the roof doesn't have curbs it will leak. You can can pour concrete on top...1/4" steel...no curbs....it will leak. Thanks for watching.

We use GAF glue. Not sure what you mean about duct tape. We do not use duct tape on the seams. Everything is glued on

@@jonhall611 for??

All the materials you need you can get at your local commercial supply house. Just let them know what you got going on.

You are correct. These videos are you help folks wise up to the RV bullshiloney. Hopefully after watching they won't be had a shoddy service center or sales person. They'll know what to recognize as concerns and what to ask. Thanks for watching!

Its all TPO. we custom fabricate everything. Thanks for watching.

@@RVROOFINSTALL i see, ok. I'm new to the rv remodeling world. I bought one that was involved in a fire so I was trying to get some ideas of how to properly replace the roof. Great material. Thanks for posting.

Thank you for watching. You are correct maintenance and common sense go a long way. The RV industry takes advantage of folks lack of roof knowledge....and mislead them to think you need to do the Dicor application every 3 to 4 months.they just want to stay in your pocket. People ask me which one I have or like the best... they're all the same and ....I do not own an RV or camper.

Do you mean 2x4 for the roof trusses?

@@RVROOFINSTALL Yes. Is an 1992 Safari Serengeti. The sides are aluminum structure but the roof is plywood. They didn't use 2x4s

@@miguelbecerra4379 class c? Travel trailer? Whatcha got??

RV ROOF INSTALL Class A, diesel pusher.

@@73miguelangelo email us ... rvroofinstall@gmail.com. much easier

You can buy subfloor adhesive in tubes , like Liquid nails.

We don't quote on social media, but my advise is...if you like your coach and it's paid for, if your a person who will camp or own one, if you like the layout and style, then out a roof on it and enjoy it. RVs are not like real estate, they depreciate quicker than a car. If you opt to get a new one you'll be needing a roof sooner than you think. You can see all the newer coaches we do. Why go into debt on a newER one and need a roof? Thanks for watching.

Btw, we had a Holiday Rambler Presidential Suites in here last year. It in our channel.

Please understand we don't quote on social media. 423-475-7663. Thanks for watching.

Well I can tell you this. If you have Dicor, Dicor is made by Carlisle Syntex, the make a commercial grade EPDM self leveling lap sealant. Thanks for watching!

We don't quote on social media. If you give us a call we can get you some pricing. Office is 8-4 MF...424.475.7663

No I am not saying to scrape it off, mainly because you will most likely tear the roofing. It's a bad roof system. You could try to remove it. Be careful. The RV industry exploits people's lack of knowledge of roofs and convinced them to keep slobbering more on...more on. Everything we use is commercial grade. Thanks for watching!

It's not tape. They're remnants from the roofing. Thanks for watching!

Also where are you located

Roofs take a week to 10 days depending on damage. Walls take 2 to 3 days...depending on damage. Thanks for watching!

M1 by Chemlink. All sealants are Chemlink products.

Thank you! You have a very good reputation wish you guys were closer. We had the whole roof and “100% of plywood taken off and replaced” locally 10 moths ago and even had a leak in just a couple weeks after they did it. The plywood has started coming apart in the 2 exact same places on nose and next to AC unit. It was suppose to be guaranteed for 1 year and they do not answer the phone, texts or emails about our problems and others having leaks. I dont think they took the old off and they just put new over it and band aided it. I have seen now they change names every couple months so I think they are scammers that move from place to place.

@@MotoHosedotcom thanks for watching. Folks come from Canada, WI, New York, Miami, Texas.

Which manufacturer Do you recommend to buy? I have a small pull behind camper trailer that has ceiling a wall rot around the skylight I the bath room. Now I'm stuck on what to do next.

@@akdenali you can fix it or buy another ...lol. which ones are best?? They're all the same. I don't own one. One thing is for sure, whatever you buy it'll need a roof. Thanks for watching!

@@akdenali Here's what I suggest to most folks. If you like the camper, like the layout, and style, then put a roof on it. However if this is an old aluminum sided one like the ultra lite we have posted, don't put your money into it. The ultra lite...really Super lite....had a lot of rot and really wasn't worth it, but the owner just bought it and was damned if he didn't. I'm sure if he knew all what was entailed he wouldn't have bought it. So there are the options.

No we don't, just the Fort Oglethorpe GA location. Thanks for watching!

Are you asking a question? Where are we located? Not sure what to make on these sad emoji faces.

I'm not following your question Travis.

on the ac unit with the foam curb wont that absorb the condensation and leak inside the unit ?

like watch how cheaply they are building these things and selling at a premium and then 3 4 5 years later yall are having to repair their screw ups

@@hotrodpegleg The curbs aren't foam. The condensation drains inside the AC and out through the ports to the roof. The part of the AC in the curb is the duct for air supply and return. Does that answer your question?

M1 by Chemlink

@@RVROOFINSTALL thank you very much!

House boats leak...cars don't have a membrane roofs nor do they have a protrusions like an RV. Sun roofs will leak if not done correctly. Thanks for watching.

@@RVROOFINSTALL it seems like there would be an innovative way to keep them leak proof. I’m just now seeking ways to start repairs on an inherited RV that has major damage from years of neglect.

@@explaincauseidontgetit3294 There is a way to keep the leak proof....we designed the innovative way. Thanks for watching.

We use a commercial grade pourable sealer. Thanks for watching.

@@RVROOFINSTALL something like Chem Link 1-Part Pourable?

@@darrellshriver30 sure. There are several types. It's not meant as a self leveling sealant. Designed for pitch pockets.

That is true, but still cheaper than buying another one. Thanks for watching!

Please understand we do not quote on social media. Thanks for watching.

Fort Oglethorpe GA, just a few miles south from Chattanooga TN. Thanks for watching.

We have several glues.... These are not DIY videos my friend..

@@RVROOFINSTALL just wanted to know, thanks any way, liked your video.

@@dave3301 we be use several glue adhesives....I don't know what you are working on. If you are wondering what glues for the roofing....whatever product you are using you can find the adhesive for it at local commercial supply house. Just let them know what you got. Not trying to sound ugly....there is a process for installation and if not followed then you yield poor result and leaks. I don't want someone pointing back at me saying I told them wrong, when it was really the process not followed. Hopefully the commercial supply house lead helped.

@@RVROOFINSTALL No problem, coyote hybrid bunk wall, but it alright I will do more research, I do appreciate to reply, thank you and keep up the great videos.

Me too. I don't own one! Kind of like a landscaper who had his front lawn paved. Thanks for watching.

You can't stop the flexing, you have to account for it. Proper flexible adhesive absorb shock, expansion and contraction. Thanks for watching.

Asking or telling?

RV ROOF INSTALL telling

@@mrpaulgrimm6129 not with these roofs. These are commercial grade. If it's good enough to be in a hospital, restaurant,office building....you don't need to get it under cover. Not bad advise, but not necessary. Everything is commercial...right down to the primers and caulk. Thanks for watching!

RV ROOF INSTALL I’m talking about the factory roof on RVs The sun is hard on them in Texas

@@mrpaulgrimm6129 yes you are correct. Those RV roofs are low budget cheap membranes.

I don't like the aluminum frames. The alloy is cheap and the welds are small...usually just one sided or a simple stitch. I'd rather a wood frame with fiberglass if I wereto own one, but I've never camped.

As far as I can tell, mine aren't welded, but held together with 1" angles and two 3/16" x 1/2" sheet metal screws each leg. Not sure if that's all over, but that's what I found in the lower half of the structure. I thought it was welded! What a lie! I don't know if I'd use wood either. Had one of those in the 60's that I was always fixing. Fun time for a teenager during the summer. I like the idea of aluminum, but has to be done right or not at all.

Lol...I don't have one either! Thanks for watching!

You are correct. I don't own one. Thanks for watching.

Don't be get your hopes up.. they're all the same.....lousy! Thanks for watching!

It's not my exaggeration....it was in an owners manual on one of the coaches we did. There was a chart that stipulated when and what to seal. Dicor isn't shy about telling folks to seal often or frequently as they put it Thanks for watching just the same.

@@RVROOFINSTALL Thanks for the heads up on Dicor, that is nuts that they stipulated that kind of regimine. I guess it shows the quality of there overpriced product. Hey love your vids... I was just messin with you ;)

@@timallbritton3716 Dicor caulk is there cash cow. Any other company that was concerned about quality would have had it reformulated by now. The exploit people's ignorance to roof systems.

People don't research. They listen to the so-called experts who don't research. All anyone has to do is read a tech data sheet, and they'll know if what they are using will work for their application. Getting lazy costs a lot of money. Although, for me, i am not an EPDM fan. Never was, even with all the commercial roofs I installed, I never kicked out one roll of it. But like you said, proper prep is the key. Thanks for watching