This is the EXACT video we were looking for! Thank you for having such clear instructions and video work! We're trying to install a backup camera on our vintage RV and we kept finding videos on RV with old ones already installed, so it was so helpful to see it done on a camper without one on it! We're super confident with installing it now! And thanks for all the little tips/hacks throughout the video!
Thank you for your informative video! I appreciate your expertise and calm manner in your video. I plan on putting the camera on the middle running light. I also have an old class c, Tioga as a matter of fact. She's a good rig.
THIS WAS SOOOO HELPFUL!!! I feel so much more confident doing it myself after watching this. The silicone in the screw holes is something I wouldn't have even thought about until I saw this video!!
Excellent Work Guys. My Rear View Safety $300.00 camera came with very little in the way of instructions. This video gave me the steps so I could install it with confidence.
Hi. Here's an update. I finished the installation by myself with help of this video. It took me about 6 hours. I'm only medium-handy, took lots of short breaks, and only have a cordless power drill along with hand tools. (a power screwdriver like the one in the video would have been nice). Click below to see details of my installation. I really appreciate the video. I wouldn't have applied the sealant correctly unless you showed me. Also, you helped me with knowing where to drill the holes in relation to the running lights on my 5th wheel. I learned in other videos about the confusing color coding of wires. The RV had black and white wires. The camera has black and red. Counter intuitively, you connect camera black to RV white. And Camera Red to RV black. DO NOT CONNECT BLACK WIRE TO BLACK WIRE! Trust me, read about it on Google. Electronics wires are different color-codes than RV wires. I didn't drill the dashboard in my truck like the video, but you make it clear that's only one option and presumably what your customer wanted. Camera Details: Rear View Safety Wireless Backup Camera & Dual Screen System. Camping world part #85908
I would get rid of the marker light and put the camera there instead one less hole to make. You have 2 other marker lights then seal with calk.the power is from the marker lights anyway. I did that to my coleman. It looks like i tapped into a already wired connection like the furion pre wired factory install. No one knows the difference that i have one less marker light. But what ever floats your boat.
Good video very thorough and easy to understand. 1. but why such a big hole for 2 little wires? 2. Why so far down when it could have been right by the lip? 3. How does the backup camera work off of your clearance lights, seems like it would run all the time and only at night with the lights on.
The power point should be from a wire from one of the lights inside of the trailer....so it would have power all the time without turning on the clearance lights!
Yea I would have been PISSED if that were my vehicle... I would rather see the display double stick taped flat in that same spot or something similar. Not to mention you always need your marker lights on to use it lol.
@@freethegeek4403 That's you. Most people don't mind. That being said, I usually check with the client before making visible modifications that may be outside the obvious scope of work.
There's always some issue with wireless cameras, but the alternative to run a wired camera is much more of a pain in the ass for an RV. Routing the cable takes a ton of cable length and is very difficult to route through preexisting wiring harnesses, grommets, etc without extensive disassembly of the vehicle. It all depends. Not to mention the time it would take. Of course, having a wired connection would be more reliable so long as all the connections were made competently and there's no ground interference from another circuit.
The best way to do it. Otherwise, the unit will be on continuously draining power. Turn on parking lights while traveling, camera on. Turn vehicle off, lights off, camera off...no power drain.
@@robertflores477 I've seen you say this twice now. That would only be true if they were tapped into a 12V constant, but it's true enough. The real reason is because that's the closest location to grab power for the camera and it is SWITCHED power.
these guys need to work on the wiring that butt connection was terrible why not just go to the point before the other already existing butt on each camera wire and they just drill into the dash with NO regard for any wiring that could be behind the dash....
As a mechanic, there's nothing I loathe more then butt connectors, not just butt connectors, but butt connectors on top of butt connectors. learn to solder and seal
On a bouncing RV solder eventually fails and then you usually have to clip back the wire and redo it. With butt connections, if it fails, you just slip a new on one. What you're saying is correct for a regular passenger vehicle. An RV needs quick and easy repair.
Funny, I have to redo mechanics' electrical work all the time and those guys love to use T-taps and scotch locks --- those are what's trash; butt connectors are fine if they're not cheap and are crimped correctly. Most people don't know how to solder properly or don't have a butane soldering iron that's worth a damn that can be used in that situation.
That's the only power connection they have back there in that immediate area. There's nothing wrong with tapping into the running lights circuit. The monitor mounting location is something I would've double-checked with the client first.
The best way to do it. Otherwise, the unit will be on continuously draining power. Turn on parking lights while traveling, camera on. Turn vehicle off, lights off, camera off...no power drain. Driving with the lights on makes you more visible and safer on the road.
The way you wired the backup camera itself was stupid you never want to have two connections 3 inch apart on the same wire. Drilling the dash was not the smartest thing ever. There is no way I would allow you guys to install anything on my motorhome
Thanks, Gt7 cupels, for the feedback. And, thanks so much for watching our videos. We certainly appreciate that different folks have varying techniques and I'm sure you have your reasons for your criticisms. We are curious, however, why you would not put connections so close together. Please do share with the class ...
@@CampingWorldTutorials to answer your question every time you install a connector on any wire you create resistance as well as the opportunity for corrosion of the connector itself and an eventual Short Circuit. In addition the connectors that you are using are not waterproof thereby increasing the opportunity for corrosion of the actual connector. Please bear in mind that you are connecting copper wire by a aluminum connector.
@@gt7cuppels418 There's resistance in EVERYTHING -- even the copper wire itself! The fact of the matter is that it's so negligent that it makes no difference whatsoever unless it is heavily oxidized (which, truthfully, protects against corrosion) or has poor contact. As far as your argument toward what I ASSUME is Galvanic Corrosion, there would have to be continuous heavy moisture or water on that copper/aluminum joint, for a period of time, while the circuit is powered, for that to be of any concern. Salt also plays a huge role in kicking-off galvanic corrosion. Heavily humid environments could cause the same issue inside the cab of a vehicle just the same as it would outside at the rear-center parking light. In short, you're being that know-it-all that seemingly has no real experience doing these things daily and simply recites information from the internet, a book, or a hick friend in order to appear superior while criticizing informational videos in a demeaning manner. Every technician does things differently and MOST installs, when done in a reasonable manner, withstand the test of time equally. I, for example, usually do a military splicing method and would have done that on the rear light. I usually solder connections that could possibly be exposed to elements, but don't always have the luxury when away from my bench due to my butane iron's complete uselessness. My splice method is 1) strip 1/2", 2) poke a hole in the exposed copper with a pick tool, 3) insert new wire into hole, 4) pinch shut and wrap wire around, 5) tightly wrap in SUPER 33, 6) zip-tie the joint. Alright alright, I'm done.
@@robp4616 you are one hundred percent incorrect. The resistance offered by the connectors is in the vicinity of hundred percent more then a straight through the wire. Just so you know I have a Ph.D it electrical engineering
