Thanks for the recommendation, I've had mine done like this for over 9 months now and covered about 7000 miles with no problems and the panels are held on as strong as ever.
@@hearttug I've got the same question. I tried emailing will and asking to clarify. In the video he says to use VHB tape on the front panels but you can use the PL max in the back. I just installed mine and used PL max and mine are mounted towards the front of my RV. I did use the eternabond strips on the leading edge though. I also wanted clarification on where to install the anchor safety chain.
Good to caution about doing this right. I didn't, adhesive started failing after freezing. Combined with hurricane force wind gusts at Big Bend, two panels started coming off (didn't fully detach). Long story short, I repurposed the mounts with large screws into the roof, waterproofed properly. No leaks, no loose panels. Great videos, cheers.
For anyone that's wondering if adhesive is strong enough.... I just had the displeasure of removing a flat panel off the roof of my camper and it took me 4 hours with a hammer and a kitchen knife to break through all the contact patches. No amount of my strength could break off a single contact spot with the panel and the roof. So that's how strong it was.
Great installation tips! Great timing, too. I ordered these mounts last week, should be arriving soon. Thanks for all your helpful and interesting videos.
The roof on our teardrop is Filon. I imported these mounts from the manufacturer in China 12 years ago, they were not available in the US. I then called 3M and talked with one of their engineers who did the calculations on wind load etc. He told me which VHB tape to use and how to prep the surface. Wind load is in excess of 120 mph at times. The set I have has a longer center section. Using VHB tape every square inch of the mounting needed to be covered The consequence of not doing it right is a missile coming off your roof.
I installed 2-100w panels on my fiberglass top close to 2 years ago using this method. Just had to drill 2 holes for the cables. They ain't goin' no where. I used 1/4" self tappers with a rubber washer for stress relief and drilled pilot holes. I check it all periodically and they have always been tight. I pull up on a panel and the roof flexes up with it. Bazinga!
I have a video installing these on my newer TT, I cleaned, prepped and taped, but ended up drilling/caulking a single screw in to each bracket to the roof. 5500 miles and still very solid.
Nice job Will, no messing around, all good info. I watched a video where someones solar panel blew off their van (luckily no one got hurt) and he made a video on how well the panel was constructed. Made lemonade from lemons ;)
I’ve ordered these mounts as well. I won’t be using tape in conjunction with a screw. My option is that screws are sufficient. Adhesive makes future mods difficult and messy. Just my opinion
hey great video. have you looked at the price of 320 watt or smaller panels for their cost per watt. the 72 cell panels for houses are much cheaper than 12v panels. throw a couple at an mppt controller or two you can use them on an rv. just have to make sure you have space to mount a couple. 12v panels can be on their own seperate mppt controller.
Hey there RV's, Which is stronger this Loctite glue or the 3M VHB tape btw, I just love watching this young mans videos as I find myself doing things to my RV when in the past I wouldnt have done :) Thanks.
Of course, you mean NOT drilling on top of the roof, but the title could considered as a "click bait", right? :) Just teasing dude and thanks for sharing. IMHO, I would install a piece of aluminum in front a row of solar to reflect the force of wind, to reduce the chance of the solar panel being lift off (and "take off"), which you already mentioned is could be deadly result.
Oh man, you made that look soo easy!!! Going to have to use this method to install our 300 watt solar panels. Will those mounts hold a heavier 40 pound 300 watt panel? I'll upload a video of my install as well!! Thanks for the help Will.
Are there mount systems like these but little bit higher? I would like to use them to mount solar panels, but little bit more separation from the surface will help heat disipation.
I have a 86 Toyota withe the thin metal roof sheeting and I've been thinking about using aluminum extension ladders for a mount, a ladder can span from side to side using the frame of the rv for a mounting point for strength, the frame could be built as to tilt, the panels could be easily removed for maintenance or used somewhere else. There really is a void in frame mounts for rvs besides the basic light weight single or two panel stuff.
Can you list the Adhesives you used? The Tapes, and the "goop". I will be mounting ,my 100w Renogy to the front on my Majestic 28A and will get cable channels to stick to the drivers side. Put my (Dual) controller near or around the House Battery Compartment and make a run to both the House battery and he Motor Battery to keep charged when not using the RV. Not sure what type rook the Four Winds Majestic has, but can I use the same Adhesive on a Rubber Roof. If not, what should I use in place? Thoughts?
@@kyleblackburn1918 Thanks but already purchased a rigid panel. I ended up not mounting on the roof and just set it up on the ground. I added legs to it with PVC pipe and it works very well.
Hi I'm about to fit solar panels to our van, your vid is two years old now I thought I'd ask are they still secure using the bonding method you used ? 😷
Would you trust these on a promaster hightop driving across country full time or would you go with drilling for a full time on the road kind of situation 🤔
glue only mounts are only as good as your paint, ask your dealer what the breakaway strain of the paintwork is, and they will look at you like a madman, i wonder why....
Thank you for the great video, i glue my solar on the van roof witu sikaflex glue it works great even for 4000 km journey at 100km/hour but now i need to move it to put one more on , how do i do it , to get it out of the sikaflex glue . Thank you
I was not familiar with either VHB Tape or Externabond Tape. I wasn't sure what he was calling the different tapes at first and had to play back a few times and do web to see the products he was talking about. I'm a little skeptical about any plastic fastener that will be exposed to the sun for a long time. Will these solar brackets hold up through several years in the Southwest sun?
If your RV has a EPDM or TPO roof (which most RVs do), the roof is a big rubber mat. It's just laying on plywood and only secured at the edges of the roof. Fiberglass is the same way and is very thin. If you use these types of mounts your solar panels are only held on with the strength of the rubber and in strong winds or driving down the road your panels could flap on the roof after a period of time. Also as the rubber roof ages, the bond between the rubber roof and the adhesive used on these mounts weakens. Not worth the risk if you ask me. I used rubber well nuts and after trying many other mounting methods, found these to be the best.
I'm thinking of attaching flexible solar panels to my EPDM roof using tape. They only weigh 4 lbs. Do you still recommend not doing it this way? I really don't want to drill any holes. Thanks
In saskatchewan canada it's hard to get the loctite pl,would Lepage pl work the same,ok to install and glue to that rubber membrane roof ,that's what mine is,thanks
All of your videos are great, but you shouldn't tell people to glue on their solar panels it just isn't safe ;) The contact area of the plastic mounts is just not enough, they will come off at speed, or pull the paint (or the dirt) will come off eventually.
Hi, bought the panels, bought the brackets, have now found the VHB tape. It is 3/4” wide, the bracket surface is 1 1/4”. Is my tape wise enough? Also, why self taping screws? Is it ok to just use SS screws with pilot holes?
If I understand your video correctly, you used the VHB tape to hold down the corners to the RV where the panels were more exposed to wind. And where they were more protected, you used the PL Max premium. Does that mean you feel that the VHB tape is more secure than the PL Max premium? Thanks
You forgot to mention that for non-porous surfaces like your RV roof and that plastic you are supposed to spray a little water on it to help it cure. I learned this the hard way...
@talesjones Thats h Good it's an expensive piece of equipment :P (I bought a few not too long ago and they're alot cheaper than I would've thought tbh)
You could use a preexisting electrical hole underneath the vehicle or through the firewall I guess.This likely wouldn't be worth the hassle and amount of extra wire you'd have to run, nevermind the half-asked look.
I used my fridge vent hole and ran the wires down along the other existing wires. They ended up below my cabinet behind the wood paneling. It worked super slick.
I've had these corner holders mounted about one season...Disaster they are,since solar panels (Monocrystal) get so hot,there's low airfolw under the cells and this year they're gone for good...
Anyone use this construction adhesive in areas that eventually are below 0 F in the winter? I want to be sure it won't get brittle later. (I'm applying in 70F + but want to be sure for later).
And that is why I use pop rivets on my solar panels to attach to the fiberglass roof, it will never come off with the number of rivets I use (can probably lift the van with them lol)... Also if I have to change panel it will be possible to get them loose again unlike if you use glue where it is very hard to get of and leave residue.
WARNING: Put the Gorilla Glue on the roof mount and NOT in your hair. I know that seems silly, but....oh never mind. And be careful not to over torque the screws lest you strip them. Some Gorilla did that mounting my wife’s ski and her binding fell off at 40 mph. A good ski tech would have tightened those screws by hand.
@@fabiangomez357 the best would be aluminum fasteners but it looks like zinc coated has little risk of galvanic corrosion. I use Sikaflex 252 adhesive because any hole could become a leak and you generally don’t notice until it’s a disaster.
