Absolutely the best video I have seen yet. We are new to camping and your video gave me the confidence to work on our water heater so thanks for helping us, Ken
Hello, I have a SW6 DE and I turn the switch on inside the camper, but no longer hear the clicking or see the small red light indicating the igniter is trying to light. Everything is like brand new in this camper, but this was the first few times using LP with the hot water heater always use electric heard about spiders because I had black soot on the outside of my camper. Took an air hose and blew everything out and now the igniter doesn’t work maybe something came loose or is it the whole circuit board. What is your guess lol thank you so much. I found your video more helpful than anything. I found a live full-time and a wolf pup 16 FQ and everything as I mention is like brand new in it but neither of my refrigerator will ignite with LP that’s another story and the hot water heater now will no longer light or click.
This is great and there appear to be more similar on the channel. You got my subscribe. If you could post a link to flexible drill bit attachment I'd be grateful never seen anything like it.
Thank you for this great video. When the unit is not in use for a few months... is it best to remove the water or is it better to leave the water filled? I am asking because if you empty it, there will be a small amount of residual water at the bottom of the tank, below the anode rod, not allowing it to be sacrificed and hence possibly burning a hole through the bottom of the tank? Thank you!
So, I'm cruising around every video on Suburban units that I can find. I'm starting to think my issue is an oddball: I can't turn the electric element off from inside, only with the switch on the unit, itself. The 12v switch definitely works. The only other options I can think of is that it's wired right up to 12v and not through the switch or a bad control board.... maybe? I don't know how much access I have to the back of the unit, and I REALLY don't want to pull the whole thing out.
@davevoecks6264 Many RV manufacturers do not provide interior 120v switches for the suburban heating element....( probly saves them $5) Most people just use the water heater circuit breaker as an interior switch in this case.
I'm not getting 12 volt to my gas solenoids and it's not a blown fuse. I get spark 3 times when I turn on but no 12 volt. does the control board also control the 12 volt to the gas solenoids as well as spark? It's the only think that makes sense to me.
No unfortunately unless you understand and no the pin outs and have a good background in controls there isn't. However a company called FENWAL makes an excellent control board tester.
I just bought the SW10DE to replace my very old Atwood 10 gallon. I'm confused about the wire connections because the new suburban has 6 wires plus the normal AC wires. My old Atwood only has 3 wires blue, green and white for the 12 volt. Plus the normal AC black, white and green for electric. I have a circuit breaker for the electric on and off. I have a 12 volt rocker switch with a light for gas use. Can someone tell me how to connect 6 wires 12volt from the new suburban unit where there's only 3 wires to the RV that the old 1994ish Atwood used? I haven't had hot water for a week now due to only a small leak in the tank and need to get this new one installed asap.
It sounds like you bought the new gas electric DSI model, since you don't have an interior electric switch, just omit those wires. Wire the gas wires to your switch based off the schematic just inside the door.
I have a problem with my water system getting air into it and noticed my pressure relief valve on my hws hissing. So i think its sucking air over the couple of months untill our next journey. Do i need to replace the pressure relief valve?
How do you wire up the control board to the rv? Is there a swit c h i should buy? My old water heater was gas only the new one is electric/gas and im unsure what i need for this.
My sw6de sits in a cabinet. Heard a hissing noise to open the cabinet and find moisture, mold, and some puddles water from the water heater. I assume the noise im hearing is steam escaping from under the Styrofoam thats around the tank. I think if it was leaking there would be more water. Turned off water it still makes the noise. Cut the breaker to it and the noise stopped. Would my tank be cracked at the top possibly? Why would i feel steam coming from the top of the tank around the Styrofoam?
HELP. PLEASE !...I HAVE A SUBURBAN 6 GAL RV *GAS WATERHEATER I WANT TO REPLACE IT WITH A SUBURBAN RV GAS/ ELECTRIC COMBO ....CAN IT BE DONE ?...WHERE DO I GET THE ELECTRIC FROM TO CONNECTICUT TO WATERHEATER ?
Yes it can be done provided you have an available breaker slot in your breaker box. A new 15 amp breaker will need to be installed along with 12/2 romex wiring from the breaker box to the water heater. The new one should come with a switch kit as well for interior gas/electric switches.
electric ignition on gas water heater does not come to light gas, is it the valve or the module that could be bad? Electric side of heater works fine. Thanks
My dad has this unit and it calls for heat, then cycles 3 times and cuts out...and you have to turn it off from inside the trailer. I think the electronic spark, flame sensor is bad. What do you think?
Thank you for sharing your expertise. MUCH appreciated - I had no idea re: anode rod - i have called my RV dealer to NOT thank them for NOT mentioning this vital piece of information.
I have a question. my heater works on gas then when i turn on electric, the igniter fires and turns on the propane. When I pull a wire off of the DC thermostat switch, the igniter will not fire and the electric coil heats the tank. How does it know not to use the gas when the electric is on? Is that a control board issue?
Hey partner I just found your channel and want to thank you. You are obviously very mechanical and full of great knowledge that you are willing to share with those of us that are lacking in that category. Thanks again and I will for sure subscribe and watch everything you put out
Great video! I have the same one in six gallon. I’m trying to fix the “DSI Fault” alert right now. That’s why I’m here. Hope this helps! Electric still works fine.
Same. Mine will light but the flame goes out. Works fine on 120v. Sounds like I'm going to order an anoide rod too. And check my burner tube for spider webs.
The three wires that come from the control board area are they just powered by a switch? I do not have a switch on my rv other than the one on the water heater how would I install those wires
So I contacted my water heater, but for some reason, it's not working, 😢let me tell you, it turns on (pilot & flame ), but it turns off again. Please help me 😊
I have 10 gallon suburban, my electric side is not working. I've replaced the element, thermostat, and on/off switch. The gas side works as it should. I am at my end with this thing. Does the circuit board have anything to with the 120v side? So far nobody can point me in a direction to fix this. Any help would be so much appreciated.
Yes the circuit board recieves a request from the electric switch and allows the 120 vac power to pass through a relay, then the exterior on/off switch, then the thermostat/ECO, Then to the element. Hope that helps!
Thanks for taking the time to make this video. I'm completely new to owning an RV; we just bought a 1998 model Gulf Stream Yellowstone. I got it home and found that the water heater was leaking. I know that mine is an SW6 something, but the data sticker is too faded to see the actual model. I've been trying to compare it to what I'm seeing on the new models, but I'm just not sure which to replace it with. It has the DC junction box on the right side (from the front), but no AC box on the right side. It has a power cord, but it connects to it's own little control/thermostat box, then two white wires run to what I assume is an element that screws in where you show the anode rod to go. Any answers on which model I should replace it with?
@firemanjd2002 yeah so someone has added a "hotrod" kit. It's a kit that replaces the anode withan electric element completely eliminating the required benefits of the anode rod, terrible idea! It originally was a gas only and the previous owner ( or 1 of the previous owners was duped into the electric solution) while a hot rod does work it leaves the glass lined tank defenseless to the hard water deposits and ruins the tank. My suggestion would be to upgrade to a SW6DE, or replace it with an instantaneous water heater. Girard offers a direct replacement with correct dimensions for an easy swap
@@MRRVTECH Thanks for that info. I went ahead and ordered a SW6DE. I just went to all of our local hardware/plumbing stores looking for replacement brass fittings for the back though, and none of them have the ones with the check valves. How important is that?
Hi thanks for the great video. I need some help with a question and would like to ask you if you could be so kind to help if you can. I bought a forest river 5th wheel and about a year ago and didn't know anything about the anode rod and it rotted thru the bottom of the tank .so I bought a replacement on eBay it's the 5243A SW10DE. I bought an open box water heater thinking I could save some money . I really don't want to return it if I don't have too. So it arrived yesterday and I gave it a good look over and I noticed on the pressure relief side of the fire box that the metal around the top of the pressure relief valve had a dent . Then I looked down between the tank and the fire box and on the back side of the fire box where the pressure relief sticks thru there appears to be a rubber gasket up against the fire box . Is that a seal or does the pressure relief actually screw into a fitting that is part of the tank and I don't need to worry about that rubber gasket? Because they tightened it and the rubber gasket is only about 1/2 under the shoulder it was meant to be in contact with .the bad news is they tightened the brown wire between the two surfaces mate instead of on the gasket . Looking at it I don't think removing the pressure relief will loosen the surface I am talking about it appears to be some type of flange that holds the fire box to the tank and the relief valve screws into it. I realize I need to get the wire out from in-between the two surfaces or maybe cut it and replace it all together but is that gasket sealing the water or just a nicety? Thank you for taking a look at my problem.
The pressure relief valve screws directly into a welded fitting in the tank, the gasket you see does not retain any water it is a barrier between the combustion pan and tank. I would just cut the wire off and run a new one. Best of luck!
Great Video! I do have a question. If I put my water heater out the side of the couch will the water lines come out too so I can disconnect them or do I have to go inside and take the wall panels off to disconnect the water line.
I’ve been out in my Travel trailer this week and heard a high pitch tone coming from the water heater when it was running on electric. The noise would stop when I would turn the water heater electric switch off and would come back on when the switch was turned back on. A few days later after coming back to the trailer after an hour walk and noticed the fan by the service panel, I assume it was the inverter cooling fan, was coming on and going off. This was every few seconds, on off on off. It stopped fluctuating on off when I turned the water switch to off and immediately started doing it when the switch was turned back on. I’m still away from home and am using the propane for the hot water heater, which that part is working just fine. In both instances the water coming out was hot. Any ideas what should look for when I get home.
Good one! Sounds like a strain on the 12 volt side of the converter while the water heater is on electric, possibly a relay in the control board. I would test the amperage on the DC white wire at the water heater control board while electric is on.
@@MRRVTECH I’ll give that a check when we get back home tomorrow. An amp clamp is the one tool I don’t have with me on the road. Where might this control board be located at. When running on electric is it running on DC or AC current?
This video was totally awesome... now I understand this thing and how to approach fixing it. Thank you Thank you! Like the comment below, I didn't recall the dealer warning me about the anode rod. I can't help but editorialize here on the Suburban product. I don't know why Suburban doesn't put a huge warning label when you open up the screen saying that the anode rod must be regular checked...there certainly is room for it. Instead the only favor they do for me is tell me to check the temperature pressure relief valve every three years and there are warnings for models that I don't even have! They were too cheap to make a special label for individual models.
Pretty sure you're wrong about the tstats. The bottom tstat is temperature activated and set to 130F. That's the one regulating the operation of the water heater. Its spring loaded and continuously opens the circuit (at temp) and resets when the WH cools below set temp. Should it fail, the top tstat (also called the ECO) will break the circuit at 180F and that one needs to to be reset manually. There is no one-shot tstat on the Suburban WH as far as I'm aware. You're probably confusing this with the ECO fuse on the Atwood/Dometic which would melt in the event of a backfire from the burn chamber.
Good video but in all the one i have watched , include this one , no one shows where is the main gas connection ..Under ? left side ? Right side ? Behind ? Top ? Thanks !!
@@MRRVTECH Thank you , would be good to show it on video as quiet essential the gas connection and no one shows it in any video i have watch so far about this product ... 🤔
My igniter engages but burner does not light. If I light stove then hw tank lights. Then works fine until it doesn’t. I have had this unit for 12 years It was new when bought and this year is the first time there has been a problem. Great video. Thank you.
Thank you. My water heater propane stopped running. Shuts off after a few seconds. My anode was really bad about 6 months ago and I do have a water leak coming from the top combustion chamber. I'm sure we damaged ours not servicing it. I plan to use this as a good learning experience and upgrade from a 10 to a 12 gallon. We have plenty of depth in our RV. Your video was great and I appreciate your time
@@MRRVTECH Wiring in a new installation from a sw6p to sw6del, wasn't really hard but what's the point in making a how to video that only shows how to on the simplest things where all anyone needs is a bit of common sense and leave out any technical information.
I have a old Atwood water heater and I'm trying to figure out how to wire it to the old Atwood. Is that a problem wiring it? The suburban I bought is a 6 gal. SW 6 DE and I'm hoping it can be installed properly with the Atwood switch? Just a girl and hope you can help me, thanks both water heaters are electric and gas the Atwood is the gc 6 EE 10 AA sure could use some advice? Thanks 🙏
Excellent video. I need to replace one of the wires and it's connection to the electric thermostat. How can I gain purchase on the wire to replace it? Where does it terminate? Thank you.
Thank you for the video it helped clarify a whole lot! I do have a question: is there a relay switch of sorts? I'm having issues with my water heater and the problem before the switch by the heating element. I cant get any volt reading going to that switch. Any tips would be appreciated. Thank you!
Thank you for your time making this video. Excellent. We had a question on our Suburban SW12DELC. The Gas will not spark, unless the water in the tank is cool. So if I leave the electric and gas off at night, the next morning when I turn on the gas, it will spark and start heating. If I don't let the water cool all the way down, the gas will never spark. Do you think it's the board or the 12v thermostat? All the best.
Replacing my SW12DEL with a tankless. The Suburban is rusting out after 4 years, gives me nothing but smelly water. Replaced heating elements, thermostats, multiple anodes...now it is a leaky, rusty mess.
I’m having issues with a propane only water heater model SW6D. I’m only getting about 1.89 volts to the thermostat switch. Would that be that I have a faulty negative? I checked all the fuses on the fuse box and they all reading 13volts to ground. Any hints
Yes you can run both at the same time. It may last a little longer but the main advantage of running both gas and electric is a much quicker recovery time.
Hi sir my rv takes a SW10PE and we ordered that exact part water heater but they sent us an SW10DE. Our old one only has the white, black and ground wires I guess that'd be the 120 vac junction box but we don't have anymore wires in the rv to hook up to the red, blue and green wired for that other junction box.... we've called rv service men but nobody has come out and I'm frustrated!!! Do I just leave that other junction box alone unhooked?
Gary Baulch I must apologize, I have never commented of a UTube channel before so so did not realize I should put my name. I just sent a comment asking the best way to remove the heating element from a SW6 DE water heater? Every time the water heater is plugged pin it blows my breaker where it is plugged into the house? Thanks Gary
My Suburban Hot Water tank has 110volt on the white wire going to the element and black wire is ground coming from switch and thermostat. I can't get to the junction box without removing the tank. Have you ever seen this? I believe the wiring was done at factory.
Wow Bud thanks so much i have same unit and think i broke my heater Element thought i had water in tank after a winterization buts thankyou for this now saved Very well done instruction
@11:40 You tell us those wires are going to be wired to the coach for your switches! That's what I need to know how to do! I went from an Atwood to the suburban water heater and I need to know how to wire it to the coach for the switches. Please help!
Thanks for the great video! Im having an issue with my 120v thermostat lower non-resettable pole on my 10 gallon gas/electric suburban hot water heater. My wire going to this poll gets hot enough to melt the insulation off. Voltage is normally around 120v. It usually takes 12-18 months before the wire brakes, usually at the connector. My unit is about 14 years old and still works very good with this one exception. Any thoughts? Thanks for your reply. Dean
@MrRVTech - ABSOLUTELY A GREAT, WELL DONE video! You deserve the rewards from the advertisements. My only Q to you is "Does a BAD" 110v element show open or closed circuit ? I just pulled on with fried wires ... Thinking it shorted? Or maybe they fried from poor connection.... idk. But I am curious as to if the elements will die closed as well as open?
Can you do a step by step trouble shooting on the electronic ignighter, and anything that would prevent it from working...I used to flip a switch inside the rv ahead of taking a shower.
For those having issue with no flame to your water heater. Check your propane regulator. Mine was bad and was not letting the propane flow. I had replaced the gas valve, electric element and was ready to order the circuit board when I decided to check for gas flow trying to turn on the stove and it wouldn’t light
What a great video. Thank you! All the info we needed and an explanation for every component on the heater. I have a water leak and can't find it. Zero water leaking from lines but a deep from under the heater. I suspect the previous owner didn't replace the annod rod like I do and thats my leak
Hi, your video was a big help, I have to change out our hot water tank which is 12 gal. suburban. BtY they deleted the switch that you pointed out at the bottom on left side.
I have a question about the wiring of the 120 volt relay. My water heater stopped working, and I traced the lack of 120 volt power back to the relay, but, I'm not sure it is the relay. The wiring diagram is similar to what you show in your video. The white bypasses the relay and goes straight to the heating element. The black wire goes to the relay, then down to the switch next to the element. There is also a ground wire that comes from the relay to a ground connection and then there is another wire from the relay that does not terminate to anything. Should this wire connect to anything?!?
@javiertorrez4771 the ground wire is a 12 volt chassis ground and the other wire...typically yellow is a 12 volt+ signal wire from the control box. The 12 volt circuit engages the relay from the control allowing the hot 120v black cir uit to close.
@@MRRVTECH then my water heater does not work on electric, that wire, the yellow 12 volt + ends in wire nut and does not terminate to the controller. Could this be a wiring mistake from the previous owner?
Replacing an atwood with a suburban. I have 2 12v powers from the switch in the camper. Also a blue wire going back to switch. On the new heater there is only green to ground. Red and blue. What am i doing wrong?? Missing something? Or need a different controller/switch. Thanks for any help
The blue wire going back to the switch is a " flame indication" or lamp light, if your new switch is not illuminated it can be capped and abandoned. You need 1 ground, 1 electric DC+ and 1 gas DC++
@@MRRVTECH ok. The wiring diagram on the new heater doesn't show a place to hook up both hot wires is my issue. It has a blue to "light" red to "switch" and green to ground? But I have two hots
@@MRRVTECH I'm driving back to the shop right now to check model number it was supposed to be gas/electric... Has 120 hookup. I'll let you know thank you for the quick reply!
Hi. Great video. I am full-time in my rig and would like to know how to clean out the burn tube and the chamber where the flame goes, because I found a bunch of moths in there. Is there some sort of long flexible brush meant to clean out the burn tube? Also what is the name of that socket that you used to take the aluminum panel off that was connected to your drill?
Yes, I have an 8" brush with nylon brush on the end. Not sure what tool you are referring to but I used a phillips bit, a 1/4" hex bit and a 3/8" hex bit to disassemble.
anode was completely rotted out when i was draining the tank to replace the whole heater it after it started leaking on the bottom of the tank--thanks for that info on anode