Over time your RV window glazing bead gets cracked and brittle, which could lead to leaks. Watch the short video to learn some tip and tricks to help with the installation.
I ordered a total of 47 feet of two sizes of Hehr Glaze rubber. I never found out what to buy to repair the inner T sections of the upper and divided windows. I have one window where these are damaged and missing pieces. So I decided to just repair the glaze around all of my RV windows. That's the outside pieces. And then due to the damaged inner seals on the one window that goes over the kitchen sink we are going to water proof with clear caulking and possible clear water proof tape too. This will seal the sliding window shut but we need to be sure this window is water tight during rain storms. We keep a brand new canvas cover over the entire RV come winter and she's been fully winterized then too. Unfortunately another larger window leaked and signs all three windows could leak or started to show minor leaking. So that means removing all windows. Cleaning off all past sealants either butyl caulking of any kind or silicone products. Both cleaning the window itself and also the RV window contacts. I bought 2 caulking and adhesive removers. One happened to end up having silicone in it leaving a slick residue behind. YOU DO NOT WANT ANY silicone product that might leave any residue behind. So the GooGone product has no silicone and it leaves no residue behind. HOWEVER to help make sure of that having to use the removal products I am going wash with hot soapy water and rinse well and dry with a dry microfiber cloth and or cotton terry rags making sure no particles from the dry clothes are left behind too. Then and only then am I ready to apply the new buytl tape. I'm using 1" and two layers around each window. I'll have applied the glazing materials first so all that I need do is install the window seating it well into the RV opening. And then screwing in the screws all around the inside frame/gasket like metal ring. Now I don't know the actual name of that. I had to repair one entire wall under a large leaking window so I had to strip wall paper and with that damged thin wood paneling and to fix all of this I used wood hardener then wood filler then smoothed all of that out and sanded when dried to apply new water proof heavy duty wall covering across and up to and under the lower part of this inside ring for the window to the opening. To insure even if there ever was another leak in all windows I've applied a water proof tape over the lower opening on the RV which is less than 2" on my RV probably more like 1.5". I bend the excess over the edges to insure the wall laminated wood can't have water run down them. In my case I needed to clip the round curves for the tape to make the corner bend but I only went up the window sides about 3" and across the entire bottom opening. That should protect this from future misery and undoing all the hard work to make the initial repair. Two layers of buytl tape should water proof the windows. The reason for 2 is butyl tape can vary in thickness due to heat conditions. I'm keeping my tape in the freezer and fridge when temps are above 80 F. Butyl tape also tends to squish out when warm to help fill in it's own gaps if they happen. So again the double layering should help with that. And what ever you do...do not apply silicone beads around the exterior seams around the outside of inside of the window that will not prevent leaking. And just in the end be another level to remove and clean off. If you find a windows leaking by all means remove the window asap. Clean off the RV and Windows and inspect window for damage and frame too. Then apply two layers of butyl to the window and replace. Give it a 24 to 48 hours in the ambient hotter summer temps to seal itself and check with a garden hose to make sure it's sealed and that is the problem. Don't forget the roof seams could be the cause of water leaks into an RV wall too. And there are vents that might leak on roof and walls alike. Lots of things to stay on top of. Dicor makes horizontal and vertical caulkings that are basically butyl materials too and you want to use the right one. Side vents you'll want the horizontal sealant and the top of the RV vertical labeled one for flat areas is the ideal one. Don't be skimpy with the tape or the caulking sealants but do stay away from silicone.
I think I've identified one of the window gaskets for my RV but two of the windows actually use 3 total different rubber gaskets. Dang this is not for the lazy or weak of mind. Tracking down window gaskets for 2002 R-Vision Trail-lite 211 has some big challenges. I think Hehr is the one for sure which is found on this videos home page. But haven't figured out the other two. Making matters worse is our rubber has hardened up and the gap shrinkage is beyond half an inch sometimes more like 2. Sometimes more than one gap around the windows. So our work is cut out for us. If you can identify your gaskets this site has some of the better prices. Make sure you look at a few videos to see how sealant via butyl tape is used today to get good weather proof seal. Often gaskets really on help support the window safely in it's opening. Of course it offers some weather proofing but not as much as you really need. Do not use silicone caulking of any kind. I wish they offered a larger pack of different glazing rubber like about a dozen. Or better yet you insert your make and model and year for your RV and voila there's a table that leads you to the exact gaskets needed.
I'm off to check a few Videos doing this that use black glazing. I find it difficult to grasp the white on white window surface. So if you too find that a problem there are other videos showing the use of black and yes it's the same but for me I have a unique vision issue and so my depth vision is not great and also one eye distorts edges so I find it helpful to have the contrast. I'm certain I do have the concept just want to see it a few more time. (I'm 73 never owned an RV before but been camping for over 50 years as a solo female much of the time. Hubby of 51 years turns out not to like camping and yes he knew how much I loved it before we married as we met through a caving club as in spelunking 52 years ago. But there are a lot of us ladies out there that love camping and our significant fellas or partners if you will aren't into that. But mine supports my going and trusts me to do so. That also means my independent nature has to step up and do a lot of the dirty work myself. I'm all for that too.) Happy camping everyone.
Thank you Christine Sparks from the Pelland Support team. Problem is I believe my 22 year old windows need 2 inner rubber glaze material that is NOT in the 4 samples of sample kit. Two are. My windows clearly require 3 maybe 4 different seals all different. I have 3 windows called I believe a T split window by Hehr. The one around the moving slide part is larger sized than the rubber around the outside non moving windows including the longer still window. But to make matters more difficult there are the interior rubbers that are narrower that have become a problem that defines the slider part plus the full length of the divided T between the divided windows with slide and the solid non moving window. I do have a label on the smaller window over the kitchen and will contact Hehr in hopes they can clearly ID the rubbers originally used by name and size. Otherwise I'm not sure what we can do but hate to put the windows back in place with the middle narrow rubber seals missing or damaged. Yes the Butyl tape is what seals the windows from leaking overall. BUT if there's gaps in the rubber that holds the 3 window pieces together and aides in sliding there is potential for leaks there too. And might weaken the window overall. So if you think you can ask Pelland for help by sending in the samples of rubber from your window they claim they can't due to variability in shrinkage. Fingers crossed as I contact Hehr directly.
I need a couple hundred feet of the bead you used in this video. I can't get anything to go into the cart on your website. Is there bulk pricing available?
I've had trouble with the black glazing seal shrinking and leaving large gaps, especially at the sharp lower corners of my Hehr windows on an early 60s Airstream. Is there any way to eliminate or reduce this problem? The gaps get big - 1/4" or more. Thanks.
I just talked to our window installer about that problem. First off if you use new gasket like this demonstrates applying cut it 1/8" larger then work it in. But the window installer said he adds a drop of special glue to the gasket ends and ends only where they meet and that stops the shrinkage and pulling apart of years. He did not share what the glue was however. So can't share that or I would. My gaskets on a 2001 R-Vision Trail-lite is too hardened up and like yours an inch even more gaps now. Only one way to do it right is to remove all gasket and any caulking and sealant from old from both window and RV where window attaches. Then apply the new gasket as shown here on this video and to that Butyl tape one to two layers all around to give a solid good water proof seal. Glazing windows with the rubber does not insure total water proofing. Do not use silicone caulk ever. Good luck.
