RWW203 Panel Clamps 

What size wood dowels you used? If they are wood do they are able to withstand the pressure from the sides? I want to make that setup too but that hardware here is pretty expensive.

I have 15 sets of the Veritas panel clamps, there great.

www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=31181&cat=1,43838

Wood By Wright I like watching your videos too.

The The and I ooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo

Definitely not the only one. You can find reference to this technique in very old texts. Its the best way to get a precise hole

Interesting! It certainly seemed to work well, so I'm glad I stumbled on it.

Update: I milled the boards for this clamp last night and glued up my first panel with it. It's amazingly easy to do and QUICK! No finagling with leveling the boards, no worry about excess pressure causing the panel to bow as it's clamped. This morning, before work, I removed the now dry panel and tossed in the boards to make a matching panel in under five minutes, and that was working slowly. Anybody gluing up panels should build this!

this is covered in the comments below a few time. Consider a rubber band

@@RenaissanceWW I wasn't able to find where the vertical pressure question was covered in the prior comments. In the video you explained that vertical pressure occurred, but not how. I tried making a mini "practice" version of this before taking the dive, and no vertical biting happened at all. Not sure what I did wrong! I hope you can answer b/c I want this system to work. It looks great and will save me mega $$. Thank you for your time!

@@greggentry2009: He is vastly overstating the case for vertical pressure being applied by the clamp. The way these clamps work is that the friction between the posts and the caul holes -- as the clamp is tightened -- prevents the cauls from sliding away from the work (the threads in the posts increase the hold, but these clamps can be made with smooth dowels and work almost as well). But it is important that you apply pressure yourself to press the cauls together while you are tightening the clamp (the Lee Valley instructions emphasize that point). Whatever pressure you apply while tightening should be held once the clamp is tightened (by friction between the posts and the caul holes). But there is no magical force applied vertically from a horizontal clamp. He seems to think the cauls are somehow stretched into pressing together by the clamping force, but that is nonsense. At best, if you started with thin, bowed cauls, then the clamping force could stretch them straight, but even then you would need to be pressing down at both ends of the cauls while you tighten the clamp, otherwise there would be minimal vertical pressure. But since his cauls are thick and not bowed, even that is not a factor.

I use the Veritas panel clamps all the time. And very rarely is downward pressure needed, if so add a couple C clamps. It's not rocket science.

Flip de boer see my rubber band analogy below in the comments.

I have 15 sets and use all the time. Very rarely have I need to add downward pressure. When needed I add a couple C clamps.

Yes I think that would work. In fact it might prevent you from over torquing the clamp which we can do easily with the leverage of a socket wrench. If you have to apply that much pressure to close up a joint, then you probably need to make a better fitting joint.

RenaissanceWW I agree! Again, thanks for the awesome video. There was a New Yankee vibe to it. Very well thought out, making the project approachable, just like Norm.

RenaissanceWW www.woodpeck.com/multiknob.html - just in case you are interested.

its less about clamping and more about restraining. The cauls provide a flat surface on top and bottom that prevents the individual boards from slipping up and down.

@@RenaissanceWW thanks :)

yeah that's a whole lot simpler. Leave it to me to overcomplicate things

Magnet ?

neistridlar an auger but feeds itself via the lead screw. So unless the feed rate of the post drill matches the lead screw it wont work. Not to mention the trouble of chucking the pyramidal shank.

yeah but then I don't get the cool "I'm getting things done" clickety clack of the socket wrench. It's essential for any high energy musical montage.

this is true

I use those all the time and downward pressure is very rarely needed. When it is add a couple C clamps. Its not rocket science.

@@Take-Me-To- like I stated earlier, downward pressure is very rarely needed. And when it is needed a couple C clamps is all that's needed..... l have 15 sets of the Veritas panel clamps and really like them and use them steady.

Absolutely, you are describing clamps often found in 18th century shops. Don't overestimate how much pressure you need for a panel joint. If you can't close the joint with hand pressure alone, you need to tweak the joint until it does.

@@RenaissanceWW I thought I was being really cleaver by this wedge idea, but turns out is a method that's been around for centuries (lol). I will plane the boards the best I can before trying to joint them with the wedges (I'm building my first workbench).

@@OrangeGeemer ha ha not a lot new in this craft but most of us have forgotten more than we know so keep asking questions and finding other ways to do things. Its all options for the quiver.

There are 2 clamping blocks. One has the magnet flush and it just sticks to the static post. The other one slides onto the threaded rod and does the actual clamping. I suppose a magnet inside that isn't necessary since the rode slides into the block, but I like having the magnet in there to keep the block from falling off.

@@RenaissanceWW Thanks very much for answering! I think the magnet is a great idea, on both sides

@@RenaissanceWW I'm now thinking that the magnet also can stop the wood block from marring, but to much pressure sometimes breaks magnets. I'll give it a go and see!

the posts in the bars shift back causing the bars to squeeze together. Imagine a rubber band. Put two fingers in it and spread your fingers. The rubber band goes taut and the gap in the middle decreases.

That would work.

Ty Moser just a belt and suspenders prevention for potential blow out with pressure so near the end of the wooden bar.

RenaissanceWW kind of funny that you say that. I heard you say belt and suspenders literally ten minutes ago while I was doing yard work.

no damage from the threads, but its still early days. However with a good hard wood in the cauls I think any wear will only increase the vertical clamping pressure as the posts will be able to slide and cam better. As far as the threads on the Lee Valley hardware, I don't think so, but I'm not sure. The look pretty fine for Acme threads, but then again I'm not the best judge of what is Acme and what isn't.

The roadrunner will know!

Just use steel

Jimbo L nope shouldn't matter. Just a hardwood. The thickness gives you plenty of stiffness

' I've never seen this before. I guess I'm not understanding why more people don't use this simple, easy, method. It seems like the ultimate problem solver for panel glue ups. Guess I've been subbed to the wrong channels all these years.

Thanks for your response. It's laminated pallet stringers for me then! Yep, off to Home Depot for the hardware.

sorry I just don't have the free time for that. Its a simple design and with a free day in the shop I'm sure you could make some for yourself

A square for making.

"Atheist"