The oops!! are you serious part was Great!! Surely added to the realism of the video (No AI). I will check my charger in a minute and look over that chip. Thank you for sharing.
I received seven broken ones and was able to repair 5 of them - Two were severely water damaged and not repairable. My tips: Check ALL of the through hole diodes with the diode test mode on your multimeter. One had a bad 1N5408 diode at D3. Some models have a SMD resistor at position R71 labeled "R500" which is a .5 ohm resistor and was open on three of the units. I had 1 ohm quarter watt resistors and paralleled two of them to replace them. There is enough room to tack them on the SMD pads. That will restore the 5V and the power light should come on when you plug it in. Another had R8 open which is marked "100" and is a 10 ohm SMD resistor which I replaced with a tacked on 1/4 watt 10 ohm resistor. I had to replace the TOP256ENs on some of the ones with the open resistors. The other secondary produces approx. 36VDC at the common pin on the TO-220 dual diode marked "D20". So if the power light is on and you measure approx. 36V at the common of D20, you should be able to test the charger. Be sure the unit is unplugged and that capacitors E1 and E2 are drained or discharge them before you start working on the board. - There is approx. 350V across both of the capacitors in series and they will bite you.
@@reasonablebeing5392 Then after putting on A/C Power the R71 Resistor read 3.5 Mohms so Ill say it is bad. Is there anyway to test the Voltage controller that is attached to the heatsink? I have seen multiple people saying that this is a common problem as well. Thanks for your help!
@@dirtbikerpro8362 Unless the controller is burned up visually, Try replacing the resistor first. Then you'll know if you have a bad controller - you have to diagnose this sequentially.
Thanks so much!!! This charger is a total POS!!! I’ve had 4 that died with just a few charges!!! Home Depot would NOT replace them! LOVE RYOBI TOOLS, this charger SUCKS!!! Shame on RYOBI!!!!
Mine failed last week, I opened up and suspected this semiconductor was at fault because it has some orange like substance around it, I thought that when it overheated it must have leaked that liquid, Ryobi did a lousy job at engineering this charger. Thanks for the video I will buy this part tomorrow and see if that is the offending culprit
Thank you Professor, I'll try it hopefully it fixes mine. The weird thing is that it stopped working just by being in my truck.....it was working good before
Like to share my experience with my P117. Picked up a nonworking Ryobi P117 battery charger hoping I could fix. I've replaced one component so far TOP256, no dice. The other components I've ohmed out what I could, finding nothing shorted. So far, no luck. Without a schematic / road map it's rather difficult. I've downloaded lots of RU-vid videos but still no dice. Before replacing any components check the windings on the main Transformer. The 'high voltage' on the primary circuit side isn't working. You should hear a bussing sound (the high voltage oscillator) feeding the primary winding. This circuit powers the primary winding of the yellow transformer in the middle. The primary winding has four pins. The resistance within these types of transformers, usually have a low resistance. Two pins have a very low resistance (ohms). The other two on the primary side measure a very high resistance of megaohms. At the time I wasn’t sure why. I would have expected a low reading of around 20 ohms. The secondary winding also had four pins and all four measured a low resistance. I decide to unsolder the transformer because what do I have to lose, it doesn’t work anyhow. I found the wire coming from the winding was broken off at the soldering pin of the transformer. Soldered the broken wire back to the pin. It’s fixed.
What was the failure that you fixed here? Were there no lights? Mine has a solid red light, but only flashes red when battery is installed. Battery is fine.
My electronics skills are poor and soldering small parts is hard for me too. The problem most people have is they don't find out they need the charger until they are in the middle of the job and need it NOW. Off brand chargers are about $20 on ebay but take at least a week to get which other parts will be also. I had two chargers but oddly my old style and new style are both dead. I hate to take the two hour trip to Home Depot and pay their price for a new one but I may have to do that.
I have 4 or 5 regular charges that work find a couple of which have lasted me for 5 years or more, and I had a fast charger that didn't even last a year. I may have already thrown the fast charger out, however if I can find it and this fix works, how long will it last before it breaks again? A few months? This is why I have multiple batteries, I just put one in the charge and get another.
Hi Mark, very nice video, really appreciate it! I did a search as my second Ryobi BCL3620 died today. On the pcb there is just a small piece of glass, where zener zd10 (smd) should be ;-) Is there a source where I could get the schematic? Please go on posting repair howto's, I think repairing is one of the best ways to protect our environment.
I had a Ryobi charger for a year that just died, I only used it for about 6 months. I'm wondering if this is common place for all power tool chargers or just Ryobi. Or maybe I need to stop buying stuff from the "Cheap $hit From China" Store
Ryobi has placed a very unique head on the screws holding this together. Any tips on acquiring a bit for this when Ryobi won't sell you one and Home Depot will not open it/cannot find a bit either?
Well . . . . uh . . . . I'm not sure this is what expected to see and it sure seems like the Professor knows his stuff. While I appreciate knowing that the replacement part costs only $4.00, having to solder something is asking too much for a customer to do when it appears that the real problem is a design failure. Ryobi needs to fix this issue.
Thanks for the video. Used the charger once and now no lights at all. No obvious burns. Fuse is fine. I'll try the suggestions from reasonablebeing next. I have a working unit also, but would rather not open it if I don't have to.
