Mine starts and runs but as soon as I let go of the trigger it it cuts out, I have a carb wrench coming tomorrow any idea what nut and what way I should be turning it, I feel I have the confidence to try this
Ya, mine has started giving me issues again…I purchased a new attachment for edging and it screwed things up…look like another video is coming soon lol.
Lol, I was at a friends place and he just slammed the butane in and called it good, then was wondering what was going on? I came home and banged out the video. I’m sure there is better methods, but this works for me:)
My CS26 is 11 years old and doing to same thing bogging down and not holding idle. Not wasting time, just going to replace the carburetor and spark plug kit which I purchased on Amazon. Any update on your carburetor replacement.
I recomend turning the engine on it's side at least , before removing the muffler. Andy loose build up in the opening could fall back into the exhaust port when you pull the muff off.
Change your fuel filter. If it's clogged, it will run fine on idle but will bog when you increase the fuel flow. Also, sounds like your clutch is close to needing a replacement
Easy to flood it by priming if the engine is not cold. Also. Just torching the spark arrestor is not gonna get the carbon build up out. Haven't tried it on mine yet (mine won't even start with the muffler on) but the way we used to get carbon build up out of two stroke expansion chambers (dirt bikes) is to super heat the pipe by laying it in a camp fire till it got good and hot, then run cold water in the pipe. The sudden temp change would make the carbon pop loose. Did kinda the same thing on cars back in the carbureted days. We called it the "coke bottle valve job". Warm engine , fast idle, dribble cold water from a pop bottle down the carb. Soon as the cold water hit the carbon on the valves it would pop loose and blow out the exhaust !
Thanks for the game changing tips. I could read your breakdowns all day, plus you help me keep my Weapons Of Mass Production operating right without always having to put my stuff in the shop.
I just went through all this same roybi new coil, new carb new lines, new line stringer wheel head I'm 2 far with this thing then to go back the head wouldn't spin i'm not giving up it will only fire on either i almost got it i need to check that hole in the gasket which sits under the carb okay take it apart and look new filter okay now up 100 bucks and 20 yrs of frustration i think i put the return fuel line to deep in the tank bring that back up a bit it's running not to bad now it was almost dumpster coil 30, carb 35 amazon, fuel filter lines 10 new stringer head 35 Im an expert ryobi man now i looked at those adj screws you need a special tool in which i would probably have to order from amazon and get it in 2 weeks maybe i figured they should be set from wherever they built the carb lol I had the case all split that was a joke for the coil had no spark i should have bought one this thing is probably worth 150 on a good day next the dam recoil is going to snap
The funny this is; I think it was the return fuel line all along perhaps? As soon as I adjusted the line, it started right up! Something so simple and easily overlooked by an average joe homeowner? Granted, all of the steps I took to get it running, didn’t hurt it! I’m not sure how deep the fuel return line was before I started to take it apart or replacing the carb, BUT! This will be the first thing I will look for next time!
Let me know if you can find a better head for the line? I have another head that you simply insert a specific length of cord and the head engages the line and grips onto the line. Instead of pressing that god damn button.
I said from the first few second of the video.. ADJUST THE CARBEURATOR!!! But yet you went through all these additional steps... WHY???? How do you have the courage to produce a video that shows you searching for the solution... without a CLUE!!!... when it is obvious. Congratulations on fixing a problem in an hour that should have taken 5 minutes!!!!
I can see why you would be frustrated watching this video sir Ha! But, if you watch the (part 2 video) all the way to the end, you will see that its not the adjusting of the carburetor that was the problem. The root problem was the fuel return must have been too long and was taking on fuel. Once I shortened the line in the tank, the problem was solved. The purpose of the videos were to go through every conceivable remedy for this particular problem. Yes, I was trouble shooting and figuring out things as I was going, this is life. Yes, the video was long, but why not go through every possible scenario?
I,m on 2x fail on these motors. One failed catastrophic under no stress. Bought a new one . Will not run stable despite having been to two local service ops. Sthil and Husky dealers. Couldn,t get it to run properly Pure junk.
Ya, combustion is a bitch at times. I think the main issue is user error with any 2 stroke. I’m as guilty as anyone when it comes to proper storing and maintenance of these bastards. I hate anything with a cord and I’m not sold on battery as of yet. As a result the only option for me is learning how to fix and maintain these buggers;)
Not the motor, it's the crap carburettors and mufflers they use. I have 5 for spare parts for people that still insist on buying these units 3 are the 30cc and 2 are 25 cc
First of all, I’m sure you are correct! I’m no expert on this particular 2 stroke. When you engage the throttle it automatically closes. I probably forgot to manually close it, I’m sure I started it without engaging the throttle OR I could be semi retarded? The latter is a theory my wife has been exploring….
