S2E11 Plywood goes on the Hull || Breaking a plywood scarf joint || Building a Wave Rover 650 

@@jodyssey9921 Love the clap!

I borrowed those from another boat building friend.

Thanks and great advice!

A big Texas sized thank you.

Very true! If I had more clamps I would have used them. No use leaving them unused.

I suspect that you are British?

@@RoversAdventure I did live there for a while, but I'm actually an antipodean. 🇦🇺

Good question. Plywood on the hull has a frame every 18". It has a curve which greatly improves its deflective ability. It has a layer or more of FG to strengthen it. And finally, the test piece was only 2" wide.

@@RoversAdventure All right, thanks, sounds good to me. Happy sailing !

Yes, I had to burn a few brain cells on that one but am happy to say I have a plan.

How long is she?

@@danoyes1 21' 4" LOA

You're the best!

Welcome aboard!

Yeah!

A fairly moot point when you consider for this build like the vast majority of boats the hull skin construction is such a minor part of the whole project. Having built a few boats myself to either method I do like an internal stringer on chines if not for strength then maybe for impact resistance. Also I have built a stich and tape dinghy and its a struggle to line the whole thing up in a larger vessel like this that could turn into quite a mission without the temp frames.

I have made a 26' stitch and glue Wharrem Cat in the past. It was an appropriate technique for that design. In my judgement, the technique I am using here is going to be simpler, and quicker than a stitch and glue for this design. The frames were knocked off in 2 days and are made out of inexpensive material. Apart from the sheer stringer, there are no more stringers below it (this is done to prevent water traps, instead I am making use of biaxial tape both sides of the chine for strength). You could make this with stitch and glue. The building technique is not the boat.

I don't know of any maximum. The 650 could be built using the Stitch and Glue method.

Thanks for that, may use it in the future.

Each side is about 80lbs. Awkward rather than heavy. After the hull stage, it's very much a single handed job. BTW, if you build a boat, it's hard to stop your friends pitching in. Boat builds have a way of bringing folks together.

@@RoversAdventure Haha. If I hear of a boat build nearby I will bring beer. 😍

I am also thinking about of this. A singlehanded builder might scarf the sheets on the frame after gluing instead of the other way around.

@@sailoutofagarage6212 Too much curve to scarf whist on the frames but you could apply a butt block. But really all you need is one other person for 10 minutes to help lift it up. After the hull, everything gets small again.

You are correct. Either a bulkhead or frame every 18"(approximately)

The stringer is not fixed to the frames. It is glued to the stem and temporarily screwed just behind the transom frame (Outside the plywood) It just stays in place in the notches on the temp frames

No chine logs, just biaxial glass on the inside and outside of the chine. The reason is to avoid water traps.

Absolutely. For me it was a cost issue and the plywood was readily available

No reinforcing in the trusses. I will be relying on some hearty souls. It will only weigh about 3-400lbs when we go to turn it over.

You are preaching to the converted here. The chines on my design are basically a fiberglass boat with plywood connecting them.

@@RoversAdventure Apologies for the silly joke. I was just stirring up the fundamentalist Followers of the Wooden Boat. You’re obviously not one of those. My last boat was of a similar style construction wise. Wood and epoxy love each other and combine the best properties of both materials. I too tell people you’ll break the wood before you break the joint - an epoxy joint, particularly in ply, strengthens it rather than weakens it! Keep up the good work. I put a video of that build on YT if you or anyone is interested - search my name. Cheers

@@robinhodgkinson You sir are a real craftsman. I just watched your video. Excellent! I'm glad that you told me about it as I'm glassing tomorrow and I'm more sailor than boat builder so your video has been a timely tutorial.

@@robinhodgkinson Question: How did you apply the epoxy to the glass initially? FG dry on the boat and roll the epoxy into it?

@@RoversAdventure Yes, I applied the fg dry on the boat, poured on the epoxy and worked it along with a squeegee. The apply dry method means you’ll have to keep adding some epoxy as you go since the ply will suck the weave dry to a degree - what was too much epoxy, looks starved 5 mins later. But that’s no big deal, it soon saturates the ply. You just need to work back a few feet as you go along adding a little more epoxy. Handling dry means you can easily roll it on and position it. Pre-wet is good for small areas and difficult to get at situations but a mission to handle if you’re doing large areas, and there’s the danger of it setting off which it can quickly do if you are dealing with a whole roll of it pre wet! Another way, and perhaps my preferred, is to roll on a fairly liberal (but controllable) application of epoxy resin onto the ply then lay the pre-cut fg dry over the top. That way you're pre soaking the ply, which means less working the layup, but are still handling dry and easy to manage fg. Then of course you apply further resin over the top. Its a bit quicker than the dry method I find, and the added bonus is the fg will usually sit in the correct position held fast by the wet resin, which quickly soaks into the glass as well. So you're kinda "pre-wetting" to a degree both the fg and the ply! I recommend using peel ply over the fg - less fairing and sanding. I’ve since made a simple roller dispenser for the peel ply so I can follow along behind the wetting out - epoxy a section, then follow up with the peel ply, etc. Leave enough resin so that you are just squeegeeing out a small quantity from under the Pp as you go, and you’ll have a silky smooth finish instead of the course weave texture. Not essential, but I’m addicted to that perfect shine! : )

Mrs. Rover got a good chuckle, thanks for that!

Had a good laugh over that one!

The best boat-building drinking game on the net is "Thickened epoxy." Every time a boat builder say's "thickened epoxy", you take a slug. You're off your head within 5 minutes!

@@philipritson8821 Crack on !

I try to include as much as possible but sometimes the video doesn't turn out or I forget to set up the camera. I do however try to improve each video over the last.

Good question Treavor, It should wallow less than my Contessa off the wind. As for going to windward, I will let you know after some sea trails. I am not anticipating any real issues. At the end of the day it is only a 21' boat. It' going to get tossed about in seas that you may not feel in a 36' boat.

It's largely an unconscious thing. You may have to wait until I'm on the high seas again, at that point I'm usually using my hands for hanging on.