Saab 9-3 Coolant Tee Aluminium Replacement | Saab 9-3 Common problems 

There's always a list with a Saab! lol

Ouch❗ So, your car was unusable for a week❓ I've had my car 10 years now and only known about this issue for 18-24 months, but I decided to do this 'mod' for exactly that reason - it could leave you stranded and car out of use while you wait for a part. Not to mention the posibility of damage to the ECU, alternator and compressor from that hot coolant❗ Would you believe that when I raised this on one of the Saab Facebook groups recently, I actually had some ass from the US start arguing with me about it! I blocked him, the ingrate❗

@@CycloneCyd Well he's an idiot because what u showed in the vid is a fact, it snapped in the same spot that you showed so I couldn't even rig it with another piece of hose in the mean time. I was driving with my son and we had the top down on a Saturday night and the coolant low warning started going off, and then I started noticing the coolant smell and the smoke from under the hood. Pulled over and there was coolant everywhere. Thank God I was only a few blocks from home when it did

@@hcic8738 "you can't please all of the people all of the time" someone once said. There's plenty more people in the world who appreciate what I do. I just block ingrates like him so they'll never get the benefit of my 'wisdom'.

Let us know how you get on with that, please

That was a lucky find 👍, nice work.

This is defo one of those things *all* 9-3 owners should do❗ (like with the cabin filter holder too) Not everyone knows about it though.

Thank you

Unless you have xray vision and can see those polymer chains, how is a used one any better than your old one? Get the ally one and fit it. It's not worth being stranded miles from home for a poxy bit of plastic. Links in description.

Sort out a tee in the line ASAP. That small hose is the return coolant from the turbo. Without this cooling you could cook your turbo in no time flat.

Any 9-3SS with a B207 engine (I4 petrol turbo)

No idea of the OE part numbers. The tee ODs are 32-12-32.

Sorry I didn't see your question sooner. See this video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-rqOilw1q_Ag.html

product link?

@@CycloneCyd check on do88 site there's a kit with all cooling pipes it's a cost but it include all pipes. www.do88.fr/fr/artiklar/saab-9-3-20t-2003-durites-de-refroidissement.html

on aliexpress it's available too for quite same price you have included cooler pipes + charge air pipes fr.aliexpress.com/item/4001313343900.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.6cfc3e8dDjs36h&algo_pvid=8cc52192-e874-4f76-b056-1750e7acbf62&algo_exp_id=8cc52192-e874-4f76-b056-1750e7acbf62-10

Yeah it is. It suffers the valve problem (for the last 60+ 000 miles) but the time has come for a head change, so it'll get fixed then.

@@CycloneCyd would love to see video on both replacing the head and the balance chain tensioner! How soon you think those videos would be made?

Won't make any difference, it'll come out from the head anyway. As it's the top of the engine, you only loose about a litre anyway.

@@CycloneCyd The return hose is too big to use pinch pliers also. Mine is 2010 110k miles already

Rough idle is almost certainly an air leak, but the first thing is to read the codes for the EML. Where in the world are you?

@@CycloneCyd Hi we are in Victoria Australia

@@Farmer2492 first thing is to read the codes. This should give some clue where to look. Get one of these s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_AEir79 and download Torque pro to your phone or tablet (android). This will allow you to read the codes and you'll have the kit for life. OR get one of these s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_A06Br5 more advanced than Torque and does live data and freeze frame (which you will find useful in the future when you get used to using it). OR just get a garage to read the codes for you ****** In the meantime check this ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-bgLn14dZL3Q.html it's an often missed intake leak. Also check all the small vacuum hoses for splits. Also check the intake piping and the IC for splits. The ICs on these bow at the bottom and you end up with leaks. A smoke test would be good but if you can't, get the IC out and fill it with parafin to see if there are any leaks (esp near the bottom)

I'm not very familiar with the OG9-3, but I have seen many people saying to only use OEM DI cassette. Also make sure to use the specified NGK plugs. Not sure what you mean by "turbo presure release" - do you mean it's got a boost leak? A boost leak will be a vacuum leak at low power.

Yep, bang on the halfway mark is 'normal'. the gauge is 'managed' by the ECU.

@@CycloneCyd Thanks alot, I thought there might've been an issue

No, this is specifically for the B207

What issues are you having? What are the symptoms? Any EML codes?

If it's the right size, just cut the hose and insert the tee. Fill with a cold engine via the reservoir. Run it without the cap till at least the stat opens. Keep an eye on the level. Stop the engine, return the cap and check the level again when cold.

ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-z09MX1ov8OU.html

When you say "high speed" can you be more specific? Motorway cruising? Or high rpm under WOT? Have you cleaned the MAP? I would suspect a vacuum leak.

@@CycloneCyd Hi Cyd. When it went origially I'd just come off a duel carriageway up to a roundabout. Then had no power or turbo as I went to pull away. I checked codes although no management light came up, but noticed a pending p0101. I reset the car at work and drove along a 30-50mph "A road" then after a quick blap down 3/4 mile duel carriageway again it went into limp next time I came to a stop, and then pulled away. As the junction I was approaching is really busy I pulled over in a layby and reset the computer again. I then got on the duel carriageway for 7 or 8 miles and exited onto another duel carriageway that has an average speed check. so I dropped the car into cruise at 60mph after about 3 miles the car dropped out of cruise and then when I went to accelerate after exiting there was no power again. I looked at my maf and it was pretty grungy so I got some MAf sensor cleaner. That did no good at all and the maf didn't look any better afterwards. I bought a second hand one the seller sent the whole thing with the tube too. the condition looked very good the inside of the tube and the sensor was spotless the outside didn't show anysigns of cleaning so the part looked genuinely good! I fitted that and the car drove for about 20 miles without the fault returning so I assumed that was the issue, until this morning. when on the way to work after exiting the duel carrigeway it was back in limp and, it went in exactly the same places on the way home as before. I'd say from that that the likelyhood of both maf sensors being faulty and manifesting in exactly the same way unlikely. I did have a quick look at the hoses in and out of the maf and could see or hear any air leaks. As I'm writing this it also occured to me that due to lockdown my air filter hasn't been changed recently so I'll be checking that next.The other reason I'm leaning towards the throttle body is that about 18 months ago the car went into limp with a management light and it was saying TPS. I reset it expecting it to return but it didn't. As I've been at home up until a month ago I'd forgotton about it. As I have the other og 93 Aero to use for work I can afford to take the thing appart without worrying about getting it back together for work. I think the cabin fan is coincidence It was working at the weekend when I tried the car but suddenly stopped working going up the road this morning. That's not the major concern at present. Is going to be either a fuse or the fan unit itself had one go lke that several years ago.

@@Lamster66 "both maf sensors"?? There is only one MAF sensor. Are you sure you are not confusing MAF and MAP sensors??? Have you checked the cleanliness of your MAP sensor? ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-pgPCrioK-6A.html I'm still suspecting a vacuum leak. Check your cobra ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-bgLn14dZL3Q.html and all your vacuum hoses for splits etc. Also check the IC, they have a tendency to sag at the bottom and this causes them to split.

@@CycloneCyd No "both" as in the old and the replacement one The fact that the failure mode was the exactly same indicates its not the maf.

@@CycloneCyd Ha just to update The p0101 was caused by a crack in the intercooler It got missed as you needed to have the car up in the air to see it. Basicaly it wasn't oblong anymore and was leaking

Have a look in the video description. I sell them through my 'coffee' link. Make sure to pick the link for your territory.

@@CycloneCyd thank you

@@CycloneCyd Hi found it ! great - guess ok with silicone hoses and clamps ?

@@guitarlover302 perfecto 👍

I'd bet the boiling you here is in the turbo. Fix this ASAP

Mine? Mine is a 2.0T, B207R, UK spec Aero Anniversary from 2007. These tees fit all B207 variants though (1.8t, 2.0t, 2.0T, 2003 on)

You'd be much better off with this: www.buymeacoffee.com/CycloneCyd/e/52994 and how to fit: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Rkdbdg4ilRk.html

Did you watch the video? I did mention it when talking about OE lifetime requirements.

@@CycloneCyd got it... 150k miles

Really? I mean REALLY❓ Just how short of smarts do you think I am❓

See in the description. Where in the world are you?

@@CycloneCyd Muskegon Michigan

@@vjamie69 www.buymeacoffee.com/CycloneCyd/e/24849 One I sent to Ohio arrives today. See in the video description for details of 3x stainless hose clips

There's a link in the description for the tees, however, I have since brought out a better and cheaper solution with a silicone hose. See this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Rkdbdg4ilRk.html again link in description

Thank you for your quick response. I just purchased a silicone tee assembly From a local supplier DO88 Again thanks for your time Rgds Gregory

My car has 'it' where 'it' counts! I'm not a 'polisher'.