Just changed the bushings on my 95 1.9 manual diesel( edition) , I didn't realise how much a worn rod decreases performance and steering and handling until I changed to the power flex manual specific red Bush and normal purple one, what an improvement, very happy and thanks for the video 😁
All I can say is WOW! These polyurethane bushings made a huge difference. I knew my bushings were bad but not that bad. Thanks for the video! Liked and Subbed.
Hey, I'm watching your videos for years now and today I also did change the engine mount of my 2002 Aero. Again it was very simple and straight forward following your way of working! Best regards from Germany!
Thank you so much for this video, found out why my car judders when pulling away thanks to you! Just ordered the parts. Got a 9-5 Aero Wagon 2002, following your channel very closely. Takk!
+bartendersweden The comparison is in the flexiness of the old and new bushing. The engine still moves, of course, but there is no knocking noise anymore.
Really? They looked pretty decent from what I saw maybe I'm just being dum here. Also, did you have a hard time putting back the three small bolts back and torquing them? I have a long torque wrench and I don't think I can get it to those bolts.
Well, I agree with you that the shape of the rims fits the 9-5 quite well. The three small bolts were slightly tricky to get to and I couldn't fit my big torque wrench, but my normal ratchet wrench (the orange one you see in the video) fit without an issue.
+Trionic Seven: For Saab Enthusiasts If I were to use my normal ratchet wrench, how can I know for sure that I tightened the bolts to the correct torque?
+Ali Measure the torque on the big bolts, get a feel for it, then use the ratchet. The bolts are so big that some over-tightening won't cause any trouble (IMHO)
I cannot for the life of me get the bolt holes aligned after replacing the larger square bushing. I see you recommend loosening the plate above but I don’t think I can reasonably access those bolt heads. Are there any other tips or tricks you recommend?
The square bushing, even stock and new, has a certain amount of play in it. I have replaced all of the mounts for my automatic 9-5 except for the transmission mount, and I just ordered the rear (square) poly bushing only. I think that just replacing that one because of all the slop in it will stop the transmission from giving a slight kick when it's shifting at certain engine load/gears.
Hi, Did you have any trouble getting the front bolt out? I'm about to start on this job. The clearance between the bolt head and the catalytic converter looks tight. Thanks for the video, Peter
6:10 Bussningen sitter 90 grader fel. The bushing is 90 degrees wrong way. 7:00 Är det samma siffror på alla årsmodeller och både automat och manuell? Jag får fram olika när jag söker, finner inte vad som gäller på min 9-5 från - 06. Is it the same touque spec for all engine and transmission and years? I find different numera but i can't find whats vorrect for '06 9-5
Hi. Also have the 2.3L and the idle is a little rough inside for this car class, new CPS, new TB, new DIC, no air leaks, took it to a Saab specialist, he said all B235 engines are like that at idle. I have 222.000 km. Is it possible to check all motor mounts by pressing the brake and clutch pedal like you did? The B205 from your wife seems quieter at idle and most other RU-vid B205 seem also quieter than the B235. Do you also notice the 2.0t quieter at idle than the 2.3t or is it just me? I´m even considering the GM 3.0t V6 because of the 2.3L rough idle. May sound snob, but its sad to notice the idle vibrations in a petrol Saab as much as in a W210 320 cdi diesel car :( Do you know where can I find decibel (dB) data from a test (even if its in swedish) where they compare 9-5 petrol different versions?
+Agv G V Hey! I would def. check all the motor mounts. There are four, including the torque rod. I don't have any experience with changing them out, however, nor do I know what difference it will make. Something I would also try is to change the idle rpm slightly (done with tech2), you might have resonance at the idle frequency and then that will help. Good luck! Don't even think of the 3.0L V6, that's a crap engine.
Hej! Jag har ett problem med min SAAB 9-5 2,0t, när jag släpper gasen för att sedan gasa till "klonkar" det till. Kan det vara samma fel som ovan? Grym kanal förövrigt!
+jokernnilsson Öppna motorhuven, dra åt handbromsen och släpp upp kopplingen lite grand. Låt någon titta ned försiktigt när du gör detta, det är enkelt att se om momentstagets bussning är sliten!
fråga till dig om du vet nån eller om du har byggt egen baslåda till en Saab 95 från -00. Jag har monterat in en eftermarknads stereo vid namnet Kenwood KMM-101GY till ett slutsteg vid namnet Bass Face DB2.1 och ska driva en bas vid namnet JBL CS-1214. Allt ska vara korrekt kopplat och allting är helt så är ingen fråga om det! Det jag inte förstår är varför inte basen spelar? Det är fortfarande original systemet som spelar fullt ut.... har testat flertal kablar och slutsteg och testat basen i kompisens bil som fungera där. Kan tillägga att jag har nå form av "pilot paket" på min 95:a alltså typ hardan kardon eller vad det heter, vilket jag förmodrar är AS3. Vad har jag gjort för fel? Börjar bli tröttsamt att sitta på original ljud.... Kan tillägga att jag testat med RCA-3,5mm in till steget med mobilen utan resultat. får signal ut men spelar endå inte. basen är hel då vi testade den i polarens bil....
+Robin “PaXx” Calén Hej! Jag har tyvärr inte mixtrat något med billjud alls, så tyvärr kan jag nog inte hjälpa dig. Hoppa in på stcs forum och ställ frågan där, de är kunniga.
I just replaced it on my 2003 2.2 TiD Auto, and it was no hassle. I didn't have to loosen any brackets, as the access to the bolts was easy. The biggest job was removing the engine shield underneath :-) All of the spooky noises are gone. Again: Thanx for posting the brilliant video!!
You know how to clean these pieces hitachi boost sensor PS6105 it's very hard to find for buying y have many problems with this boost sensor Thx for your time
Hi mate I have a problem with my Saab 9-5 vector when I turn the key it doesn't crank over takes a several turns of the key to get it to crank overvI've changed the starter motor battery is ok I removed ignition and cleaned it but still happens do you have any idea what is causing your help would be appreciated thanks
Hi I know this video went out a few years ago- but I am hoping you keep reading comments anyway. Are there any advantages to change ALL the mounts with poly? Why wouldn’t I? 2001 9-5 wagon
Good Day Sir, I just did this mod with the predicted results so thanks for the education. Question - why, on the original bush, is the hole oval-shaped? My bush was mounted centrally within the bracket-to-gearbox, as seen by the circular clean marks on the metal insert, but surely it would be possible to mount the original with the bolt off-centre? Regards - Doug
I just looked up pics of new ones - there’s a metal centre in the large (rear) bush, with an oval hole in it. Replacements, certainly Powerflex, have round holes.
I test drove a Saab 9-5 recently, it had a bad shake from the front that came through the floor. Could the shake be because of these bushings? I did not buy the car.
I went to check my torque rod after watching this video... it is gone ! My torque rod has fallen off !! It is a 2001 auto Aero.. Lots of new rods on amazon and ebay but no fitting kits ... Do you have part number for bolts etc ? Many thanks
Wow...gone?! How is that even possible? I'd ask in our community forum, I don't have part numbers with me right now. facebook.com/groups/733705113501723/
Observation, after watching many of your videos, GM really went cheap with parts compared to Saabs built by SAAB in Trollhattan. mine 1996NG 900 SE Turbo has none of these ailments 200 000 km , Cheers
