Saddle Hunter's Hitch, Remote Release Variant 

Thanks sincerely. I suppose my gradeschool teachers get the credit. I don't use a script and do my best to present the material based on genuine knowledge of the content. I suppose I rehearse them a bit in my head before the camera is rolling. Cheers.

Appreciate that sir.

Appreciated. And make sure ya check out the other option, the JRB hitch. I am told its more complex to tie, but its my personal preference. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-w8IRYd_J-HA.html

@@jrbtc I checked it out as well, but the Saddle Hunter’s hitch looks to meet all my needs and is simple enough you can do it in most conditions. I’ll certainly be practicing with the saddle hunter’s hitch and the JRB ascending hitch in the off season. That ascending hitch will be nice. I can toss the mechanicals and tenders that are always in the way.

Thank you. Make sure ya check out the JRB Hitch and the JRB Cinch before deciding how to remove your anchor. 3 options. I am using all 3 in different situations.

Thanks brother!

Charlie, the regular SHH is easier to loosen and adjust the vertical position than the remote release variant. Just guessing but are you considering if you can find one hitch that can be used for all of 1. Easy to tie 2. Easy to advance as ya climb 3. Cinches well, stable 4. Remotely retrievable Cuz if that's what you're looking for, I have another option. But first wanted to make sure i have your requirements.

@@jrbtc I would say that is exactly what I am looking for. Curious as to what you have in mind. Appreciate all you do. I'm learning tons by watching your videos.

My thoughts also

​@jrbtc what was final outcome for that checks all of these items?

Absolutely. These are tools in the toolbox. We choose the ones to use based the application and our proficiency. Safety first.

When properly set, and when the load line is loaded with our body weight, the hitch self jams such that a non trivial load must be placed on the release line in order to release it. The exact amount of force will vary depending on multiple factors including the rope and its properties and how well the hitch was set. Anyone considering using this hitch for any purpose is responsible for their own verification of its properties and suitability for the application. If you have not yet tested it but have access to a tree trunk, a saddle, a rope, and a chair, simply tie it, load it with your bodyweight, with your backside two inches above the chair. At this stage, you can get a feel for how much force it takes to move the release line and even more to spill it. For my own climbing exercises, before I start a rappel, I verify that the release line is hanging straight down to the ground, and obviously avoid any load on it during rappel. But don't even try it if you are uncomfortable in any regard.

9.5mm or larger. Pls look on the website for answers: jrbtreeclimbing.com/content/rope/

Sitting here (at work) using a piece of utility cord and my coffee cup, it looks like I could move the rope up the tree the same.

Obviously, you can test it. However i will also soon do a new video on something your going to love: it's easily moved.

@@jrbtc Awesome! I look forward to it.

Yes it is possible, but we would need to replace the Carabiner with something like a pin. As such, it would lack the kind of stability we want when we take into consideration phenomena such as cyclic loading where the load is taken off and placed on. That operation in combination with some movement could cause the pain to not do it job and release prematurely. The JRB hitch is a bit more complex to tie, but is my preference for a manually tied and exploding hitch.

I worry I'm not explaining myself correctly... This would be the hitch in the form of the video where you presented it to us the very first time. The toggle was not tied to the end of the rope and instead both ends of the rope flowed to the bottom of the tree. If you were to tie a release rope to the carabiner in that configuration, would it be possible to have the bite of the rope that is held in place by the toggle slide down both ends of the rope until it reaches the ground? Would the friction of the two ropes against the tree be too much to overcome? I'm new to saddle hunting and will be attempting to use the JRB hitch to start my journey climbing, but I'm trying to understand what's possible with all of the different options you've created or discuss. Thank you for your contributions to saddle hunting and replying to me in kind!

@@Silbar89 I understand what you mean now. In that configuration, there would be too much friction to reliably pull that down.

Andrew, its a good question. The answer is going to depend and ultimately be your decision. Here's some factors to consider: the JRB Cinch is easier to attach and more conservative in its nature, but we need to work harder to pull it off the tree and we need to remove everything from the line. For example, I use friction hitches and prefer not to tie them in the woods and so, the JRB Cinch is not a good match for that application. But if you use a mechanical device and remove it from the line, it's going to work fine. Make sure you watch the video: Six Options for Retrievable Tether and Rappel Anchors. My preference is the JRB Hitch or Running JRB Hitch. But the easiest one to throw up as high as possible on the trunk is the Saddle Hunter's Hitch.

@@jrbtc I will definitely watch that video. As of right now I use a mechanical device to rappel down. However I’m not sure that I’m sold one one stick climbing. I was looking for an alternative way to always be attached to the tree while setting sticks, I’m not a huge of of just the linesman rope, I’d rather be attached to the tree. Do you have any videos showing you climbing with sticks?

@@andrewpica2473 no i don't yet have content on stick climbing but i will add something when i can. Too many priorities!

@@jrbtc Totally understand! I really appreciate all of your content it really helps new guys like myself. Thank you!!

It's acting as a toggle in this application, much like a pin or spike is the toggle in the Toggled Bight, in ABOK as #1867. If you search around on the IGKT website, you'll find a Glossary for Practical Knot Tyers. It's a fantastic reference.

Sam, the amount of rope that goes around the tree is determined by the thickness of the tree. The circumference of a circle is 3.14 x the diameter. So a one foot diameter tree has a circumference of 3.14 feet, but we go around twice, so that's over 6ft and we want a nice long working end of approximately 4ft. My personal preference is the JRB Hitch but it uses about the same amount of rope. The Maverick Hitch is less greedy because it only goes around the trunk once.

@JRB Tree Climbing and Saddle Hunting thank you .watching other videos you put your heart into every one it's good to see someone share what they know to help other people. God Bless You

@@samterravecchia7421 appreciate that brother. I am trying to do exactly that.

The Ghillie is on the stiff side. We can't change the rope. But we can change the hitch. If you're tying it in place, the JRB Hitch is generally preferred. If advancing it as we climb or with a pole, the Maverick hitch is preferred. The JRB Cinch can also be retrieved but requires some effort.

I just watched all three retrievable tether rappel systems. I’m also getting pretty good with the Longhorn Agile Compact Hitch, so I just may have to remove the hitch for retrieval and use the JRB Cinch Or I may buy a more flexible rope. I really appreciate your time.

Additional info. I’ll be climbing with sticks and a lineman’s rope, no need to advance a tether.

@mattvogel5712 I can't agree that's a safe combination. If your stick kicks or you slip off it, you could be seriously hurt. We should never be dependent on our footing. Assume you're gonna lose your footing and make sure you're always safe. I will have a new video soon on how you can use a Maverick Hitch and a new Maverick Pole to do so.

I appreciate that and agree with you, my wife agrees with you too. I’m 61 as of yesterday and recently retired. I’ll be incorporating a tether as well. Thanks for keeping me focused and putting safety at the forefront. I’m enjoying the process of sifting through the videos looking for the method that works best for me. Thanks again.

Hi Jim. This video is dedicated to setting up the SHH as a retrievable anchor. Obviously, there is a load strand and a release strand which exits the hitch and we need to connect ourselves to the correct one. However the way we attach ourselves to that line and exactly how we rappel is a separate conversation. We could rappel 10 different ways and none of that would affect the SHH. If you're asking how i do it. 1. I attach myself to the rope using a JRB Ascender Hitch. I have an entire playlist dedicated to that. 2. I rappel on the Munter Friction Hitch. I show you how here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-KuJNyWTHRvk.html

@@jrbtc thanks I’ll check it out, however my comment was based on the fact that it looks as if you are tied in by that hitch, which released would not be secured to the tree. But I’ll check the video thanks for responding.

@@jimhandrews6933 right, we are tied in via the SHH and it remains locked and not capable of being released until time for rappel. That is the last thing we do before rappel: remove the locking carabiner, then rappel, then remove it remotely by pulling on the release line.

@@jrbtc what I didn’t see was the rappel rope, so I suppose it is the same one, but when released it doesn’t appear to be secured to the tree. I trust you have a video as to how this works.

@@jimhandrews6933 yes, the one single rope is the rappel rope which holds our weight and forms the SHH. The retrieval line could be the same rope, but i recommend the use of a separate cord for that.