@@cocoloco7295 its all about the adventure to come. One stage in the process will be replaced by a new and maybe even better process. And Mads being Mads, im sure he'll keep the channel going 🥰 it'll be cool.
Hi Mads. The cable mounting blocks are different because your gearbox and sail drive are electrically isolated from the engine. You need to ensure that the centre core of the gearbox shift cable (and the outer) are isolated from the shift lever and outer retaining bracket on the gearbox. It's in the exploded drawing for the lever assembly. FAILURE TO DO THIS GIVES AN ELECTRICAL PATH between the engine negative and the saildrive via the control cables!!!!!!! Basically; Ooops no anode or saildrive very quickly. The coolant header tank is better off the engine for two reasons. 1. The vibration from the engine shakes the tank until the tapered mounting falls apart. But, more importantly: 2. The heat exchanger is quite high on your engine and the header tank low. This can cause air or lack of coolant in the heat exchanger when the boat is healed. Commercial installations of this engine have the coolant header 300mm+ above the heat exchanger and remote to the engine to avoid both these issues. We (I) carried out this mod from new on our engine, and of course you can then use a standard hose and carry spare of it without the very, very expensive VP shaped hose. Hope this has helped, if so how about a plug for our little chanel where we cover many of the issues above and many more. Sail Safe Guys, Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.
I'm a Rigger that works specifically with Dyneema. I rigged SV Lady Africa, made some parts and consulted for Tula's Endless Summer, and also helped S/V Zingaro sort out his rigging with some better solutions and Deadeyes. I recently rigged a 54 ft John Alden Ketch that had 22 Shrouds and Stays. Firstly, I noticed that the mast terminations on some of the bundled shrouds are T-fittings. There is only one piece of hardware currently made that I am aware of that adapts a T-fitting, its called a T-Bail. It only comes in one size and does not have any published strength data so I am hesitant to use them if I can't be sure that the hardware rated strength matches or exceeds the rated strength of the rigging. Otherwise, you'd have to replace the mast hardware and that adds to cost and labor. Besides that, you want to stick to wire for the forestay, Dyneema is not compatible with headsail furling foils. Otherwise, Dyneema saves a ton of weight aloft over wire and it will never corrode. On the price side it isn't significantly cheaper than wire and hardware changes can drive up that cost. Based on the quote you got for wire replacement (which is pretty outstanding compared to any US based Rigger) I would stick with wire if cost is a primary factor. If you are interested in Dyneema's performance attributes, at least for a cost comparison, I'd be glad to build you a quote. Shoot me a message here or via Facebook, just search for my Kraken Structures page.
I saw your work on Sailing Lady Africa. It looked amazing but isn't Dyneema sensitive to temperature changes? As in retensioning the rig a few times a year?
@@bobadam7021 That factor has been exaggerated, but it is partially true. It takes very extreme temperature swings, like an early summer morning in Maine that is below 60 but it gets to over 90 by 3pm. The tensioning in the first year, if done right, isn't repeated in subsequent years.
I saw your work on SLA, and had looked at synthetic rigging myself, but the sheer size/bulk of it (since it's sized for creep) plus a protective uv cover (I'm in the tropics now), seemed prohibitive, considering my rigging is already 8mm anyway. My cost was actually similar to what Mads was quoted. I had mine mad up and replaced by Almerimar Marine in Spain. The boat is Prout Snowgoose 35.
Luke Just a hint buddy, if you want to draw attention to a reply you’ve made don’t use the @ symbol as it does NOT create a link in RU-vid. Do what I did to draw your attention, to create a link via the three little dots, one of which says “reply”. Failing that you can also click the tiny “page” at the bottom of each comment, one of them should work.
Mads that expansion tank looks a bit crazed. Plastic may be more brittle than when new. Engine vibration may cause fractures or failure of the mounting and that would be a problem you dont want! See other comment about bad placement and using a bulkhead mount which solves the likelihood of vibration fatigue in the old plastic.
Hi Mads, I want to tell you that Aircraft wire bought on a full roll is great value for money. Ok having said that, aircraft standard wire is copper, silver tinned and covered in a Teflon sheath. Its very strong, light but most of all the voltage drop is minimal and perfect for modern yachts with LED's, the wire lasts forever and takes up very little space in the ducting. Unfortunately it only come in white, that's okay, just colour code the ends and label them, easy. I don't know why more people are using it. My boat is a very wet boat and I don't have any problems anymore.
Contacting B&G or Garmin to get new electronics or a MASSIVE discount on the end of last year's line is pretty much what ALL the other RU-vidrs are getting as a deal. Please look into it to save money as I love Athena and your channel. Also, have you decided on the prop yet? Even the prop can get a massive discount as you will pretty much not only dedicate an episode to it with the install but you'll be getting footage on it throughout and in cleaning barnies so that's another big win for you. Keep up the great work and I'm sharing your channel with a LOT of other people because I'm positive you should have more than 200 Subscribers! My new mission :") Cheers from Canada
Hi Mads. Can't help but think a 33kg Rocna is somewhat overkill. We have four 45' boats that we charter out here on the west coast of Scotland and all have the 25kg Rocnas fitted. So far as we are aware none of them have ever dragged once properly set - in fact we also had a 42' boat which had the windlass and anchor locker pullet out during one blow! The 33kg unit will just put greater strain on your windlass and deck gear (one of our 45'boats is an Amel, ie a 'proper' displacement cruising boat) I'd also recommend staying with relatively standard standing rigging. Synthetic has its place but, for ease of getting it repaired around the world, conventional is much simpler.
@iBiana Doubt Ya I hear him saying it a LOT over the years and it always makes me laugh as I watch because this is like a class to me. I'm leaving for Mexico to settle in for a bit and search for the boat down there so... acquisition of some parts will be considered both those words LOL. I'll check out AvE and never forgive you for it.
I think what we like most is when you get new parts - especially because we're not paying for them, ha ha ha. Nothing like lots of sparkling new parts.
Madds. I agree with Luke he is the best plus he will show you how do repairs an more.Plus his Hardware is awesome and tuff. Don’t be afraid he Dam Good what he Does and please read over what he said to you!. I like to throw in something that make cost a little more but try Kevlar rope and maybe DuPont could help you a little on Price. Hope you add a stripe too the Hull. Well take Care . Greg of USA.
I'm doing my own standing rigging on my 37' O'Day! DIY for sure!!! Use Sta-lok fittings and buy the cable in bulk with one extra length for mistakes. It's not hard at all and you'll save a freaking ton
At first I thought your channel was kind of uninteresting but after watching you since you started working on Athena, well it’s been a joy. I really like you. I think you are going to have the time of your life when you get to sailing.
Mads, as a final sanity check, do an online instant quotation at “Ratseys Yacht Rigging” they sell the raw materials, fittings or completed turn-key, quality materials, cheap if you do a DIY like for like replacement, cheers John
I know you are a Comp Sci/ IT guy but having worked in engineering departments for 40 years I can assure you that you have the "nomenclature" down pat!
Instead of paying for that $80 hose consider mounting that expansion tank on the bulkhead, my engine cut a hole in the tank via the bracket. I resolved it by mounting the new tank on a near bulkhead and it’s been faithfully chugging along ever since
Dyneema Rigging. Mega strong, no more corrosion, diy able. Feels nice soft and cuddly on the hands compared to steel. Easy to carry extra rigging material to make changes or repairs while at sea. It’s something like 15x stronger than steel by weight. High abrasive, uv and cut resistance, I had it on my boat for 10 years before selling and it stayed beautiful.
I couldn't help thinking Mads was happy to nick the core so there was another DIY task to add to the list! Looking great, can't wait to see her splashed in 2023 :)
SOrry Sorry Sorry, You are such a precise working guy, so it will not go in my mind that you mounted a very dirty expansiontank on the Volvo. For the rest I appreciate your video's. I love it. Let me guess about the leaking chain plate I think it is the double one I think its leaking between the plates maybe you should weld them together.
Hi Mads! Watching your channel is a wonderful Zen-like experience! Great work. Funny after a lifetime of cruising including 18 Crossings in and out of New Zealand, Southern Ocean Etc and countless refits on super yachts, that I'm watching someone else work on their boat! The 65 pound anchor and necessary chain is a storm set up for your boat, you may want to reconsider putting it at the pointy end! You can save money and do all the rigging yourself with wire and mechanical fittings even with the Mast up!. Keep up the great work!
@@billfromgermany hj bill, i have the dux rigging but havent stepped the mast or launched yet. hope happens this winter . btw the weight difference is amazing. the dux has been around long enough now that there is lots of data available.
Mads, today is Tuesday and I am hoping you were able to paint. You certainly have drier weather than us right now as I sit here waiting for a hurricane to come ashore and move on. We set two anchors on our tub and shes still riding fine even though the windage has her sailing on her anchor a bit. We pulled the jib down so as long as she doesn't drag and the cover stays on the main I think shell be fine. We cant wait for Athena to be splashed again!
I would suggest going for the Rocna 25, it will be plenty! I am certain you have checked rocna recommendations (for50kts and poor holding) already but...just wanted to say :) You will notice the extra weight when the bow starts digging going downwind :)
As far as stainless wire rope standing rigging is concerned I wouldn't think of anything else. Rod is a major PITA when you have to remove the mast and carry it with you like when you need to go through the erie canal to get to the great lakes. It has a performance benefit, but isn't worth it if you aren't a performance sailor and racing. Dyneema is strong but fragile. Chafe is an issue. Make an error and your genoa sheets are rubbing on it all night in a storm somewhere in the middle if the Atlantic and didnt realize it and you are up the brown creek without a paddle really damn fast. I've seen boats drag down into other boats in an anchorage and get their shrouds tangled, have seen shrouds caught/snagged on overhangs and pilings in marinas too. It doesn't take much to damage fiber compared to steel. The last thing I want to worry about in the middle of a storm when some bozo with too small of an anchor or not enough scope is dragging into me is getting dismasted on top of everything else as our anchors, chains, lifelines, and shrouds are all tangling and we are getting blown into only god knows what to leward. Nope, I'll take good strong heavy-aloft wire rope. This is a cruising boat, we don't pretend to be a racer. We have Hayne swageless fittings. They aren't hard to redo with new cones inside. We have enough extra wire stored down below to completely redo the standing rigging when that time comes.
Hi Mads, It would be great if you had a video on Rigging inspection... from a boat owner’s perspective, of course... I hate paying tons of $$$ to rigging inspectors to do a basic inspection. Anyway, you do such a great job on all your videos An I think the boat community, myself included, would appreciate something like that. Cheers and keep up the great work.
Also, its much lighter. The less weight on the masts, the smoother the ride. Not to mention, you can carry enough dyneema on board to completely re-rig Athena two times over and barely add any significant weight. You can’t carry spare steel rigging. Just my two cents and two comments;)
You know, I don't generally like most DIY videos. Even boat refit videos tend to bore me and I scroll through them and lose interest. But when I found this channel several years ago, I've followed along closely and have seen every video up to the present. Mads, keep doing what you're doing. You have a very entertaining, real, and down to Earth way of presenting. Even "boring" stuff like sanding becomes entertaining to watch. And I can't wait to see your sailing videos. I figure they will be even more fun to watch. Now, back to the video with the cussing in Danish. I'm determined to learn how to do that.
Bow roller dohicky = Roller Stemhead. Engine control do-dad = Morse control (although "Morse" is like "Hoover", a trade name that has become generic). Fine example of a dohicky = R-clip.
I’m going to rig my Moody 36S with Dyneema SK78, already acquired, and reusing the T-fittings by welding a 3/8 stainless loop to them. The splicing will be done in the winter. Rigging Doctor has all Dyneema and can answer to the the challenges.
As you approach the end of this humongous project, we hope you have the opportunity to deeply savor the sense of satisfaction you have earned. Your investment of $$$ and time boggles my small mind. Your discipline to consistently maintain superior level of craftsmanship and willingness to try new ideas and master new skills is outstanding. We have limited amount of time on this earth. Hope you soon are in position to begin enjoying what you have masterfully created. Good luck!
Have you considered making your own rigging with Sta-Lok or similar fittings? I know that time is precious but the fix-it-yourself aspect should be right up your alley. There are three excellent videos on the process on the Drake Paragon channel.
Mads, one comment on the bow roller: don't forget to take into consideration that you need room for the anchor to clear the pulpit when being dropped. Based on my experience, such a large anchor might in fact interfere with the pulpit while going down and up. Worth double checking it. In my case, I ended up extending the bow roller forward.
Be sure to check the clutch when you fire up the engine. If the cables aren't adjusted properly, your clutch can slip and it won't be long before you are replacing the clutch plates (which are not cheap). It shouldn't turn the prop at all when in neutral and when the transmission is engaged in forward or reverse it shouldn't slip at all.
The Triton package from B&G (masthead unit, Depth/Speed/Temperature transducer, and Triton display) is a super great deal and the sailsteer display is fantastic for a sailboat. IMHO it's the only nmea-2k equipment that is any good in the B&G lineup. I have a complete setup with a Vulcan 7 plotter and even their crappy "Fancy" NMEA-2K VHF with AIS and remote wireless handheld mic/radio controller. It's all crap except for the Triton Package IMHO. I'd buy something else had I to it again, except for the Triton kit for about $1000 which even includes the Network backbone starter package too.
SV Barry Duckworth Would love to know what you found crappy about the rest of the B&G equipment. I currently have the VHF and the Vulcan seven plotter. Have not installed either yet but I was planning on doing that soon.
@@chadchorniak1407 we have a Vulcan 7 and basically the user interface is just all-around poor. The setup menus are a hot mess with different bits being in different places on different menus and with really no rhyme or reason as to why they are where they are. Finding that specific setting you need can be maddening looking in each drop-down in different screens. I am no stranger to technology, but nothing is intuitive here and every task is made much harder than it should be. We are now cruising for our third year and we are still discovering how to do certain things that we couldn't figure out before during nearly 10k nautical miles of using it. For example, how to turn off a "go to waypoint" once it is set without selecting another one, or how to start a route like a Bob423 track in the middle and not from an end. It shouldn't be this hard, but it really is. Just getting the charts configured the way you like them is a pain. For example the "Ranges" show a blank area totally covering the depth lines which can be a problem because most of the Ranges are old and shoaling can be bad even in the official ranges. It doesn't do this on the Navionics smartphone app. We have Navionics both for the plotter and our smartphones and the phones display the SAME charts much, much better. I've had other cruisers show me stuff on their Garmin plotters and it is like a night and day difference. The menus all make sense and are intuitive to use like a smartphone. Getting data from your laptop to the plotter is nearly impossible via the NMEA-2k network. The only real way to put in waypoints, routes, and tracks is to pull the card out of the back physically and put it into the computer each and every time. If you have the plotter mounted into a panel where the back of the unit is not easily accessible then too bad for you because that is where the card is. :( We also have the V60 VHF and the H60 wireless handset. It is OK but still a bit buggy. We used to have the earlier V50/H50 and that was simply an unusable hot mess. Bugs galore and you couldn't even use the handset anywhere near the base unit because it would feedback and scream when you tried to transmit. They forgot to put an option in to turn off the "intercom" mode in the settings so there was no way to fix it. They abandoned all new updates to the old model and therenwill never be any new fixes for current bugs on this radio that we had only bought two years earlier. After many hours on multipt customer support calls they did finally do an exchange and upgrade us to the newer model. All in all I would advise not buying a VHF radio or AIS from B&G and sticking to a company that knows radios like Icom or Standard Horizon. But the Triton system is awesome though. I'm thinking of buying another one if I see a big sale just to have another display and a spare masthead unit and DST transducer since they cost a lot individually.
Have you considered a bowsprit for the anchor? You can get the anchor as far as you want from your hull. And you get a perfect mount point for a blister/spinnaker. Love your channel! Really nice job!
I truly understand Mad's concern about the final paint. I did a total exterior rework on my boat some years ago and the only part I wasn't able to paint early enough in the day so that it dried (not cured) before evening was the aft deck hatch. To this day its the most ugly part of the boat as it never had a shine and always looks dirty.
Im guessing its already been said, but i would not be a bad idea to look into Dyneema rigging. Way cheaper, stronger, and easily maintained. Athena is looking great!
Colligo Synthetic Rigging. I redid mine and very happy. I know you have done your chain plates but he also did never corrode Titanium chain plates for me.
Mate, before you order your standing rigging have a good look at Sta Lok fittings. I just did my Catalina and love the system. Next time your rigging needs replacing all you replace is the cables, you keep your fittings. Love your work and wish you more sunshine Cheers Reiner Australia
Hey Mads, just binged your channel (from the start of Athena) and you nail it every time in your videos. Good job with everything so far, and keep the content coming. Real quick thought. I don't recall hearing you say if you plan on keeping the name of Athena or changing it. My thinking is that with all the "oh glorious" work you've done so far, there's not much of Athena even left. My top vote for a new name would be Spiffy for obvious reasons. A close second and third would be Gloria (for glorious) and Sandy (for sanding)..."Oh Glorious sanding." However it is, like you say your boat just thought I'd mention it. Keep up the good work Mads. It's very inspirational watching how you see a problem, and teach yourself through the solution. Gives me hope for my own future project. P.S. Here in the states we throw around the term "widget" to describe an unknown object ;)
The do hickie is necessary because the thing a ma jig requires backup in case the whatcha call it loosens up. Make sure the thing-a-ma-bob is set to righty tighty, not lefty loosey.
I was always told when having standing rigging done, make sure you get fittings that allow you to turn them end-to-end every so often thus extending their life.
my fist comment in 386 episodes. first, thank you for allowing us to come along! second, maybe it was just the camera angle, but does the throttle handle clear the wheel when driving backwards at full chat? i'd never want to do that, but it would a real pain to have them interfere with each other when you are emergency braking :0
Not sure how you're going to test run the engine, but if starting on the hard, consider a water source if you have a rubber impeller. Or if you're able, take off the drive belt to the impeller to prevent it from spinning dry.
Even though you have a fuel polishing system would you consider having two fuel filters in parallel as a backup? That enable you to switch over to a clean filter if the one in use has a problem. Very simple with the flick of the wrist.
I think it is best that you are combining the double chainplate. But I bet you could have gotten away with it as it was with the butyl in there between them. The only caveat would have been to make the butyl section short enough so that if it did fail it wouldn't have much room to trap water up against the metal to contribute to crevice corrosion. Worst case is you get a very few tiny drips down below. I have bedded plexiglass glass portlights in aluminum frames where I could not find the proper rubber gasket (because the plexiglass replacement pane was thinner than the original unobtainium safety glass) and it worked just fine for years with no leaking, and that is with minimal continuing pressure on the butyl from the frame and the plexiglass part only held in by the butyl itself, only floating there in the frame. Butyl has wonderful self-healing properties as a sealant as long as movement is kept to an absolute minimum. The haters can call me names and say all sorts of BS but this is real world long-distance cruising experience, not armchair weekend warrior whatever taking. Credibility is a credibility does. As always, I can't wait for next week's video.
Madds are your halyards external? Since you have your mast down and if you have the space, you may want to consider converting to internal halyards. You guys will sleep better. No Glorious Sanding this week.
Regarding riggers to contact, I would recommend getting a quote from Hansen & Hamacher in Vamdrup near Kolding. Very knowledgeable, great service and fair prices.
since you're looking at estimates...check out the dyneema varients...(aka kevlar) it's lighter and stronger than that steel and does not rust....get the covered version and it's protected from UV as well.... Might also look at the Cape Horn autopilot system.....
Hi Mads, just a quick one with the Duralac, while it does seal and prevent galvanic corrosion it is also a jointing compound so it will make removing the screw/bolt harder in the future, great for a locktite like effect but not so great for something temporary. I work on large Navy vessels and Tefgel or a similar teflon based product is what we use to prevent corrosion and also seizing of stainless steel bolts/fittings and it works really well. Love the channel, keep up the great work
I haven’t found the “locking” feature to be a problem, but what really annoys me is how quickly Duralac goes hard once the tin has been opened. For the cheapest Duralac around, google “Elise” in Denmark. A firm specialising in spares for Lotus Elise cars. Tefgel is great but so bloody expensive.
It will probably be a lot easier to get spare-/replacement parts for a traditional wire rigging, in some remote part of the world, should he ever need it.
My boat has sailed across the Atlantic twice and the Pacific once with stainless steel rigging and has had no trouble either. Of course in the case of a rig failure I can't cut the rigging with a hot knife, but would need an angle grinder.
I can only offer a suggestion as to why the throttle cable has a metal washer vs plastic. My guess is that you will move the throttle cable more than change gears. That's my guess
Hi Mads, How did you size that Rocna? I have the 33 on a 42 feet, 20 ton full steel hull and it wouldn’t even budge in a gale in soft sand. So the 33 on Athena feels rather excessive to me. Have you talked to Rocna? They have great customer service and are happy to give advice on sizing and setup. Love your videos! Keep em coming!
I have to agree. I have a 25kg on a 47' boat that weighs 26,000 lbs. It has been flawless in the 8 years we have used it. 33 kgs seems overkill and the size is making it hard to launch/retrieve. Talk to Rocna, they were very helpful in selecting ours. Enjoy your channel!
When making up your provisioning list before setting sail don't forget aluminum polish in order to keep that engine compartment gleaming like a dentists smile.
Hello Mads. The weight of the anchor chain should stop the anchor flipping and hitting the hull when you release it. Appologies if you have had same thoughts from others but I have not read them all. Great project. Thanks.
I would certainly clean or replace the expansion tank. In the automotive world when i clean a coolant reservour i put heavy sand in it and shake the hell out of it with other chemicals and detergents. it helps to knock off some sediment in the tank. Be damm shure to rinse it out good though before putting it back on..( Disclaimer : Your results may vary depending on your comfort level and ability to take on mechanical risk and the expenditure of physical stamina required to yield results. )
Mads, if the weather doesn't give you a window before winter sets in, this might be a good time to bite the bullet and pay for a few days in a shed to get that last coat on, since it can really delay other things you want to finish.
I just replaced my standing rigging with SS wire and Sta-lok fittings. Biggest advantages it's DIY and if you carry spare wire and fittings it can be repaired at sea. Buy the appropriate wire and fittings and assemble yourself. Only tools needed are wire cutters, a couple wrenches and optionally a bench vice. If your turnbuckles were turned in most of the way in before, cut the new wires about 1/2" (12mm) shorter. The fittings look more expensive but by the time you pay to have the cheaper ones swaged on they're a wash or even cheaper. I did have the headstay professionally swaged just to make sure the furler didn't unscrew the fittings even though I've never heard of that happening. My turnbuckles looked fine so I did not replace them. Total cost was about $1500 for a 36' boat with a 41' mast. New turnbuckles would have added about $900. I got the materials from Rigging.com, I don't know if they ship to Denmark.
I agree with all of this, except if you're Mads everything is diy. "Welcome back to good old Athena for another fun DIY weekend - This week we will be performing a little open heart surgery just as long as Jökull can position the mirror."
