Sailboat Engine Maintenance. Part 1 Cleaning the Heat Exchanger.

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Sailboat Engine maintenance. Part 1 Heat exchanger. In this video we look at cleaning the heat exchanger and changing the coolant. A few tips and tricks we show you on the way.
Welcome to our channel.
Please visit our website. www.svimpavidus.com/
In 2018 we left the UK to sail around the world slowly. After Brexit, a "Pandemic" and major heart surgery we are still sailing, documenting our travels and showing you what we have learned so far.
We are hoping to complete our journey, and travel right around the world even if we have had a few setbacks along the way. We will continue at our own pace and that may be fast or slow. We want to be sure not to miss anything and have stories to tell our grandchildren when we are old and grey.
Sail Safe Guys, Ant & Cid.
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Опубликовано:

30 май 2020

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Комментарии : 104

@drabsinwa180 2 года назад

Excellent video very informative - thank you.

@SVImpavidus 2 года назад

Thank you! Lots of other vıdeos to watch. Enjoy the channel.

@spyglassfreowestaus2733 4 года назад

Good vid Ant.! I love your lessons from maintenance to mooring Luv you guys

@SVImpavidus 4 года назад

Thanks for watching! We love getting comments and feedback. Sail Safe, Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.

@kevinbond3858 2 года назад

Loving your videos, so glad I found your channel. You’re giving me the confidence to do so many more jobs myself. Thank you 👍👍

@SVImpavidus 2 года назад

Thank you Kevin. We try to be different. It does not necessarily make us popular 🤣However, we keep growing sustainably at 150 -250 subs a month. We get some great feedback in the comments that put a smile on our faces. We have a "pay it forward" philosophy that means folks that watch us gain knowledge and we hope they pass it forward to others. Most of all, when people comment, such as yourself.... It just makes our day. Thank you. Enjoy our other videos. Next Sunday there is a video from Kas, Turkey that took a lot of effort to put together, We think its our best yet in the travel guide videos.Meanwhile check out the playlists.Oh yea, we also respond to every comment. Good or bad. 😊 Sail Safe mate. Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.

@philgray1023 3 года назад

Top tips in that one.

@SVImpavidus 3 года назад

Always like to pass them on. Sail Safe mate. Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.

@capitainehaddock5109 2 года назад

Super video bien expliqué et bien filmé Merci à tous les deux.bonnes navigations.

@SVImpavidus 2 года назад

Merci Beaucoup! 👍

@joeltatham5673 3 года назад

Exactly what I need to do in October - thanks very much!

@SVImpavidus 3 года назад

Hi Joel. Be sure not to trap the O rings when you put the end caps on. We have heard from a lot of people that have nicked them, especially on the rear and water has got past damaging the heat exchanger. Thanks for watching. Sail Safe mate. Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.

@joeltatham5673 3 года назад

SV Impavidus wow, THAT was a quick reply! All of your videos so far (I’m on a bit of a binge) are really relevant so thanks - just watched the raw water pump disassembly which we had to do ourselves last year but will have to do again due to a weep from the shaft access. I’ll watch the O-Rings carefully, thanks for the tip. I saw that VP says to throw them away and just replace but they love that idea don’t they ;). Also loved the small 5 micron diesel fuel pre-pre filter. Awesome idea as I’ve changed the fuel filter while wallowing at sea FAR too many times. Mind you, I’m now qualified for a pit crew position. My Dufour 365GL doesn’t had a raw water strainer as the engine compartment is very tight but I’m going to fit one. One of my biggest worries, sucking something into the raw water system. If you want to see my boat we are Sail Kalypso on youtube. Only really watched by family and friends so nothing special. Cheers again.

@SVImpavidus 3 года назад

@@joeltatham5673 Hi mate we are on line as we are uploading our Patreon video that you will see next week. If you fit a strainer be sure to have the anti syphon bend higher by a good 300mm +. We have to prime ours after any inspection as well. But that said we can see your concern over not having a filter/strainer. Take care and sail safe. Ant.

@chrisdavidson2340 3 года назад

Just came across your videos and am extremely impressed. Subscribed right away and enjoying the additional know how I’m acquiring. Thank you :)

@SVImpavidus 3 года назад

Chris. Glad to have you aboard. New video will be out Sunday PM. Sail Safe Guys, Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.

@fergusferguson8536 3 года назад

great you make it look easy.

@SVImpavidus 3 года назад

Thanks Fergus. We have been helping out a fellow boater with his Yanmar engine to clean the heat exchanger and refurbish the water pump. It will take a week or two to edit all the video as there are over 4 hours. But stay tuned to see how It is done on a Yanmar. Sail Safe mate. Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.

@raybelcher Год назад

Thank you from Meerbusch in Germany.

@SVImpavidus Год назад

Our pleasure!

@spelunkerd 4 года назад

Gotta love how clean your engine is, that takes more work than people realize. I like the way you filled your water strainer with water, and your extra effort with the shop vac. Inspiring.

@SVImpavidus 4 года назад

As they say in the adverts "Every little helps." Thanks for watching. Sail Safe mate. Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.

@OverlandSea 4 года назад

Love it, very informative and well presented, probs your best tut to date :)

@SVImpavidus 4 года назад

Thanks guys. Setting sail in a few days so more sailing vids coming up! Sail Safe Guys, Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.

@davidscott851 4 года назад

Nice job Ant 👍

@SVImpavidus 4 года назад

Thank you! Cheers! Sail Safe Guys, Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.

@kevinbaxter1571 Год назад

nice job!

@SVImpavidus Год назад

Thanks!

@BernieTseTung 4 года назад

Excellent, just what I needed :0)

@SVImpavidus 4 года назад

Thanks for watching Bernie. Sail Safe mate. Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.

@marcellefresne9591 4 года назад

Great Video. Thanks for sharing. One comment which respect to the end cap weep hole. You noted that if it dripped it would mean that the o-ring was damaged and you would loose glycol. True but if the outside o-ring leaked (the one in the end cap) you would get raw water coming out of the hole. Worse than that is if the salt plugged the weep hole then the salt/calcium would build up and corrode the aluminum casting between the two o-rings. This happened to my D1-30 at around 1400 hrs. It has been known to corrode enough to allow salt water to pass the inside o-ring and enter the engine. Known issue on this engine and other VP engines with this o-ring set-up on the exchanger core.

@SVImpavidus 4 года назад

Marcel Hi. If the outer O ring goes raw water should come out the hole as it cannot get past the inner O ring. While the hole is small the raw water is a a lot of pressure. As it has to overcome the exhaust back pressure to exit. A lot of water can get out this hole in a short time. If the inner ring were to also fail the Raw water will pressurise the cooling system and blow the expansion tank. (This was a big issue with the 2020 and the 2030 engines and the design was changed) Hence the hole provides protection in both cases. There is no aluminium casting between the O rings as the Cap is plastic, the inner O ring seals from it to the exchanger core which is bronze and the same at the outer O ring. We would be most interested to see some photos of the damage as would our viewers. Sail Safe mate. Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.

@marcellefresne9591 4 года назад

@@SVImpavidus Hi Ant,Cid and the pooch crew. I can provide photos for you to see what happens when raw water seeps past the outside o-ring and plugs the weep hole but I don't know how to do it here. If you can help in how to do that I would post them. I will attempt to attach some to the email notice I received or you can reply to me at marcelis@telus.net and I'll send them off to you directly and you can post them.

@marcellefresne9591 4 года назад

Hi, me again. Couldn't figure out how to share my photos. (Not much of a computer guy) I agree with your comment on water will or should come out of the weep hole if the outer o-ring fails. What happens if the weep hole plugs off??? The scenario with mine and it's my opinion only:::: Salt water seeped past the outer o-ring and into the gap between the two o-rings. Over time with the water just sitting there, the salt/calcium started to built up, hardened and eventually blocked off the weep hole. I never did see water coming out of the hole so this would have been a very minor seepage that built up over time. My first sign of an issue was at around 13-1400 hrs. I noticed a greyish goop squeezing out around the mating surface between the plastic end cap and the heat exchanger casting. Upon removal of the end cap, the gap between the two o-rings were completely filled with this salt/calcium build-up so again my opinion it that the seepage and build-up on mine occurred over a very long time before it started to squeeze past the plastic cover. After clean-up I found the casting to be corroded up to the edge of the inner o-ring. Fortunately it did not corrode past the o-ring and I was able to perform a repair to the casting with marine epoxy. I have read on other forums where guys weren't as lucky as me and the corrosion went under and past the inner o-ring. Sorry for the long explanation. Hopefully I get to share photos with you as it would give your followers something to watch for.

@SVImpavidus 4 года назад

@@marcellefresne9591 Brilliant! Can you point us in the direction of the forums? Or just email us at; impavidussailing@gmail.com. You can send any photos there too. We are building up our web site and we have lots of photos to upload and stories like yours to add to the technical pages so others can benefit from the hive mind. It would be great to include you too. Ant. (website is; svimpavidus.com)

@sailinggambit768 3 года назад

Great vid Ant, drained down my coolant today, very slow to come out, perhaps a gentle rodding was required. and cleaning the heat exchanger tomorrow. Do you know is there a spot under the heat exchanger drain tap for a zinc pencil anode?

@SVImpavidus 3 года назад

Hi.The drain plug is kind of hidden on the Port side of the engine behind the wiring loom.When draining remove the header tank cap. Use a shop vac to suck all the coolant out. The drain plug can get clogged with sediment. When drained take it right out and clean the plug and the engine block. There are no anodes on the Volvo. Be sure that you check the exhaust elbow every year by removing it. This is the big issue with these engines. Flush the coolant two or three times with distilled water. Before re-filling with coolant if you have sediment in the system. Any problems give us a shout. Sail Safe mate. Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.

@marcobaldan8153 4 года назад

Nice videos Ant, I am learning a lot from you! In this video, I am puzzled by what you mention about O-rings lubrication. You recommend not to use vaseline and instead use silicon spray. Why not to use vaseline or engine oil? Really many thanks for your videos, keep doing them, you are training scores of sailors!

@SVImpavidus 4 года назад

Great point! Unless you absolutely sure what type of material you O rings, seals or gaskets are made of silicone is always safe. Vaseline is a petroleum product. (Petroleum jelly) It can cause some rubber type materials like EPDM, Neoprene or synthetic rubber to degrade. A prime example of this is Lewmar hatch gaskets. Petroleum products like vaseline or oil actually dry them out and cause them to break up. Silicone does not and keeps them supple. Another good example is toilet O rings and gaskets like those fitted to Jabsco toilets. These are EPDM, again oil or vaseline will cause them to deform an lose shape. Silicone grease or spray is inert and does not affect them. Hope this helps Marco. Thanks for watching and taking the time to ask a good question. Sail Safe mate, Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.

@marcobaldan8153 4 года назад

@@SVImpavidus Many thanks for the answer, Ant! Good to know about Vaseline and EPDM rubber material interactions. Fair winds and following seas, Ant and Cid :-)

@kivamiesi 5 месяцев назад

I was searching experience to remove heat exhanger - as mine is not moving. Of course that is missing from the video! But there was another practical tips, needs to check them later.

@SVImpavidus 5 месяцев назад

That's the point. You do not need to remove the heat exchanger to clean it. Sail Safe mate. Ant & Cid

@Jurathepuppy 4 года назад

Excellent stuff Ant. Can you please do a little bit on your additional fuel filter setup? Did you get the extra filter on eBay? Thanks 👍

@SVImpavidus 4 года назад

Will do Julian, We will PM you. With a link. Sail Safe mate. Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.

@yvindlund968 2 года назад

Hi! Thank for all your inspiring videos, and for sharing all your experience! I have the same engine in the same boat (Bav 37 Cruiser 2014). I have noticed your modification of the placement of the coolant expansion tank and was considering the same modification. Did you make any video of this? I assume I have to get some new longer hoses, but not sure where to get them and what specifications to look for. Could you point me in the right direction? Thank you!

@SVImpavidus 2 года назад

Hi mate it was an easy job. The smaller hose is long enough to just redirect. The larger hose is a standard automotive hose available from any auto supply shop. After draining the coolant down to a level you can remove the hoses remove the header tank from the engine and fix it back to the bulkhead. You may find it best to epoxy and screw a block of ply first to fix it to. Once the header tank is in place measure the length of the bigger hose you will need. Add 75mm or so to the measurement so you can get a nice sweeping bend. Take the existing hose and the measurement to an auto shop. This is a standard hose used in cars for the heater matrix. It should no be more than a few euros to buy. Then fit it and top up the coolant. Leave the engine to run for an hour or so with the cap off the header tank so any air can escape. Let us know how you get on Sail Safe mate. Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.

@yvindlund968 2 года назад

@@SVImpavidus Thank you so much for the detailed response. This will be another winter project along with the cleaning of the heat exchanger. I had to replace the exhaust elbow already on our D1-30F at 800 hours (boat/engine is from 2014), so it seems that the cooling system on these engines needs a lot of care. Sail safe, and keep up the great work you are doing. Watching your videos has been a great inspiration!

@hheinsius 4 года назад

Thanks again for the instructive video! May I ask something? In minute 13 you say: "I have to get the back end off also", and then, in the next scene, you have the hole heat exchanger out of the motor. 3 questions: 1: do you HAVE to take the backend loos also to remove the heat exchanger 2: do you HAVE to remove the antifreeze coolant before that ( because otherwise, it will drip out when you remove the heat exchanger)? and 3: the heat exchanger seems to sit rather tight: how did you pull it towards you, once you have removed the O ring? ( putting a screwdriver between the motor and the heat exchanger?) Thanks!

@SVImpavidus 4 года назад

Hans, Thanks for watching. The back end is exactly the same as the front. The hose goes into the exhaust elbow at the back. At the front it comes from the water pump. But escentuly its the same. The O rings at the back grip the matrix so the back has to come off the the matrix simply pulls out from the front. It cannot pull backwards because the front has a big flange on it. Yes the antifreeze comes out through the drain plug on the side of the heat exchanger its the black plastic fitting we show in the video and the drawing. If the heat exchanger matrix is a little tight you can gently tap it with a rubber hammer or mallet. You have to avoid sharp things like a screwdriver as they can damage the surfaces. Once it starts to move forward there is plenty of room and it will slide forward quite easy.... Hope that helps? If you have any other questions we are happy to answer them. Sail Safe mate. Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.

@boardelia 3 года назад

@@SVImpavidus Do you have to empty the antifreeze before in order to take out the heat exchanger or it's not necessary ?

@SVImpavidus 3 года назад

@@boardelia Yes you have to drain down all the coolant using the drain cock on the side of the engine before you take the core out of the heat exchanger. Sail Safe mate. Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.

@i1uvpreppyxo887 Год назад

I missed where the fourth o-ring goes. Did it go over the end of the heat exchanger insert at the exhaust elbow end, once it was inserted?

@SVImpavidus Год назад

There are 4 O rings on the heat exchanger. Two at each end. Sail Safe mate. Ant & Cid

@sebastienbaud103 3 года назад

Very nice videos Anthony, and clear explanations. One question: i own a Dufour335GL with same motor as yours Volvo Penta D1-30F. After wintering, i find the flow rate of raw water coming out with exhaust gas quite low. Do you know what should be the average flow rate of raw water at idling?

@SVImpavidus 3 года назад

Hi. Thanks for watching. There is a data sheet for the pump available from Johnson that tells you the rate of flow at various RPM's. However, this will not give you th e rate at the exhaust as the internal resistance of the pipework would need to be taken into consideration. Woften think there is less or more flow after not running the engine for a while and think it must be a expectation thing. If you compare your engine to the output of our exhaust does it seem more or less? Sail Safe mate. Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.

@sebastienbaud103 3 года назад

@@SVImpavidus flow seems less (is less) than yours

@sebastienbaud103 3 года назад

Here is a video to show you the flow. Estimated 2 liters/min ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-kaFvHNq4PNA.html

@sailing-etanche 4 года назад

At last...sailing! Escape of the marina. Enjoy

@SVImpavidus 4 года назад

Just a few days now. We cant wait. Thanks for watching. Sail Safe Guys, Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.

@lttuang Год назад

I’m doing the job on my D1-30. Got the front cover off ok. But the back has me stumped because of the small L hose connection from the back cover to the exhaust outlet. Did you have to remove the exhaust outlet piece to get the back cover off?

@SVImpavidus Год назад

Yes remove the L shape hose and then remove the 3 socket head bolts that secure the end cap. The cap will then be free to remove with a gentle twist and pull. There is no need to remove the elbow but it’s a good time to remove and inspect it. Sail Safe. Ant

@raymondvandijk7116 10 месяцев назад

thanks for all the brilliant tips - do you have to take the exhange manifold off to get the heat exchanger out?

@SVImpavidus 9 месяцев назад

No need on the D1-30, and some of the early D2's. The matrix will come out easy. Sail Safe mate. Ant & Cid

@stephenpurkis5051 2 года назад

Thank you. Have you had any issues with the exhaust elbow getting obstructed or blocked?

@SVImpavidus 2 года назад

There are two videos on this here is the link to one of them. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-WXPG6XaWvF8.html.

@stevejmorrow 2 года назад

Thanks for sharing - I have the same engine and the Volvo engineer spotted my o-rings have a slight leak on the heat exchanger. Now have the confidence to have a go at it myself. Question, did you do the alternator mod? I’m looking to upgrade to a 120A Balmar but need to upgrade the pulleys on the D1-30. Did you have these made or can you share supplier details. Great video- thanks, Steve

@SVImpavidus 2 года назад

Hi Steve. The standard D1-30 Alternator is 115 Amp with Serpentine belt and pulleys (Sometimes called Multi V's). That's the D1-30 A through to D1-30F. Standard V belts cannot provide the friction needed to drive anything much above a 60 Amp Alternator. Spending a lot of money on a Balmar is not going to get you much more than the standard VP alternator. You can get these on Ebay for a quarter of the price of a VP part or a Balmar. 115 Amp is more than enough if your set up in the right way. Take a look at our Lithium video it will give you a better view of how to set up your system. where you are not reliant on the alternator so much. Sail Safe mate. Ant.

@stevejmorrow 2 года назад

@@SVImpavidus Thanks for the speedy reply Ant, really appreciated. I have a D1-30F on a Hanse 385. I clearly need to do lots more reading and research. I'd read that the standard alternator was rated 115A but would only output anything like that when cold and at high revs. Somewhere I read that Balmar and other high output alternators would put out nearer to their rated max output under a great spread of conditions. However, my alternator on my engine is driven by a single relatively small v belt - so my concerns were that upgrading wouldn't be possible without a pulley upgrade. I'm not a fan of solar arches etc or wind vanes or hydro vanes so I'm committed to being reliant on alternator and shore power for charging. I'm planning to upgrade my 200Ah AGMs to 400AH LiFePO4. I will retain the AGMs for the Engine Start and Bow Thruster and I want to install a Victron Inverter/Charger. I'll binge watch the rest of your series now I've found it. Whilst I studied electronics at Uni - that was 35 years ago so I'm having to start from first principles. Your videos are super helpful - so thanks again. Steve

@leenova9087 3 года назад

Great video! Did you use deionised water for the coolant?

@SVImpavidus 3 года назад

We use the pre mixed from Volvo. However the manual is very good in explaining the mix and water type with a parts per million chart. It suggests distilled water. Sail Safe mate. Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.

@ichiva193 3 года назад

Hi,for give me, my English is not so good. I have volvo penta d2-55d. In the beginning, You open sea cock valve, put in fresh water inside the strainer. And then what did you do exactly? The purpose is, to clean salty water in the heat exchanger??? And then how you drain this sea water in the exchanger??? I can drain coolant but sea water, i dont know. Thank you

@SVImpavidus 3 года назад

Hi. The purpose is to clean the sea water out of the exchanger, then when you restart the engine you close the valve and fill the strainer with water. Put the top back on and open the valve. This primes the pump and hoses so the pump can form a good vacuum and goo water flow as it starts. Hope this helps. Ant,

@kevinbond3858 2 года назад

Have you seen a product called “Blu Thru” tablets - you can put them in the raw water strainer and they will apparently clean the cooling system when the engine is running? Considering giving them a try.

@SVImpavidus 2 года назад

Yes we have seen the Kevin. They will apparently remove scale but not bits of impeller or shell. Thanks for watching. Ant.

@kevinbond3858 2 года назад

@@SVImpavidus Maybe I’ll get some and drop a couple in every 10 hours just to keep the exchanger clean but yes as you say still need to open up and check for large bits causing a blockage on the routine maintenance. I have also discovered a broken bolt head on the impeller cover - I’ll have to remove the unit and see if I can machine it out as it won’t budge with “easy outs”... always a job to be done

@fredsousa4020 3 года назад

I have twin volvos one is running at 200 the other is 170... Cleaned coolers, and oil cooler... No impeller blockage....

@SVImpavidus 3 года назад

Hi Fred, When you say 200 & 170 we are not quite sure what your referring to. What engines are they? Get back to us and we will try to help you out.

@womackke 3 года назад

@@SVImpavidus temperature Fahrenheit is what he is referring to

@SVImpavidus 3 года назад

@@womackke Thanks for that we wondered what he meant. It would be good if Fread got back to us with the engine types etc. Sail Safe mate. Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.

@loseby63 4 года назад

Nice one Ant. I have a Ford Lehman 80hp but I’m guessing the system is the same. Quick question though, I’m re doing the battery bank with AGM x 3 house and a agm starter, with a regulator, temperature sensors etc and a new alternator. Sound good to you? We’re on shore power mostly right now, but will be off the grid in a few years so. Currently only one 145w flex solar panel on the dodger. Will add a bigger panel to the davits next year. Keen to know what you have onboard. Cheers

@SVImpavidus 4 года назад

Richard, Hi how many amp hours of house AGM will you have? Where abouts are you located and then sailing to? Do you know roughly how many amps or watt hours you draw on anchor? To give you a decent answer we would need to know these 3 things. Best regards. Ant.

@loseby63 4 года назад

SV Impavidus they’re 115 amps each, with just an electric fridge burning 6 amps on full whack. Might add a freezer like the one you bought to stick under a seat. B&G 9 inch Chart plotter and wind/depth instruments, SSB as well. Going to Tonga. Maybe add AIS?

@loseby63 4 года назад

Sorry, starting in NZ. Thanks Ant.

@SVImpavidus 4 года назад

@@loseby63 I would say your a little light on battery power and would suggest your need around 400 Ah as only 50% is usable without damaging the batteries. With that amount of Ah you are going to need 500 Watts of solar as a minimum to be totally self sufficient. If you can get some energy into the batteries first thing in the morning by running a genny or running your engine the solar will cope over the rest of the day. Our advice would always be go bigger than you think you need! Get as much solar as you can and run the freezer at full tilt during the day, turning it to a higher temp over night to save power. Sail Safe mate. Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.

@boardelia 3 года назад

Hi, there, nice work ! So when you fill with the new coolant, you fill both the expansion tank AND the heat exchanger ? Or only the expansion tank ?

@SVImpavidus 3 года назад

Filling the coolant expansion tank fills the whole system as this is the highest point. Any air trapped will return to the expansion tank as the coolant pump pushes it round. Sail Safe mate. Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.

@boardelia 3 года назад

@@SVImpavidus Thanks for helping me understand how things work, fait winds to you all !

@SVImpavidus 3 года назад

@@boardelia No Problem: Happy New Year.

@boardelia 3 года назад

@@SVImpavidus Happy New Year !

@martinmorrison2415 2 года назад

My impeller broke some blades and I'm worried some pieces may have travelled towards the heat exchanger. Is it possible to remove the exchanger end to clean without draining the coolant?

@SVImpavidus 2 года назад

Martin. Not really. It can be done but the slightest disturbance of the heat exchanger tube pile will leave coolant everywhere. You only have to drain the coolant below the heat exchanger body not from the whole engine. Sail Safe mate. Ant.

@martinmorrison2415 2 года назад

Thanks for the spot on recommendation. Keep on with the cool D1 30 maintenance tips. Cheers, Martin

@freespacexl 4 года назад

Hi, how many hours do you have on this engine please? So clean!!!

@SVImpavidus 4 года назад

We have 1230 hours on the engine. It was new in March 2015. we always keep it clean and also keep the paint in good condition. It makes it easy if there is a leak or a problem to see where it is. Sail Safe. Ant & Cid.

@freespacexl 4 года назад

@@SVImpavidus thanks, I remember you saying in a previous video that was your reason. Really looks like new still, you'd easily spot anything leaking/out of place for sure!

@frankj5947 4 года назад

I don't own a boat yet but years of watching these videos tells me Volvo engines are a rip-off to maintain and repair. Yanmar and others much more reasonable. Any thoughts on this? Thanks.

@SVImpavidus 4 года назад

Hi Frank. The parts pricing on Volvo Penta is certainly geared to extracting the the maximum they can get away with for OEM spares. The same parts are available through other retailers at a fraction of the price. There are known faults laike the exhaust elbow and the exhaust muffler that Volvo are undoubtedly aware of but choose to ignore. Both of these parts are easy to replace and with a better made and longer lasting part that is cheaper. We think that while the engines are good and based on other engines that are marinised by Volvo such as Perkins. They could be really good if Volvo would wake up and smell the coffee. To see what these few choices in sales strategy are doing to what was a good reputation. And why people like us recommend the Beta Marine engines over Volvo. Sail Safe mate. Ant, Cid & the pooch crew.