I know this is an old thread, but I have to say you did a fin job repairing that Dolby board using spring pumps and solder wick. Back 30 years or so ago I used to repair computers and high-end VCRs with similar ribbon cable/pass-through issues. Since then I have invested in a Hakko desoldering tool that saves me gobs of time and does a much cleaner job than those old cheap spring pumps ever did. Less than $300 and well worth it as I have easily spent that much in solder suckers alone over the years.
I've had one just come into the shop. Thanks SO MUCH for doing this video. I got a push from Audio Karma to look at the dolby-evil and then, found your video. God bless ya. This will save me hours.
Nice job... But if you dip your solder wick in liquid flux and they use it, it will make the wick suck the solder better and you get a better and cleaner solder pad.
I suggest a ZD-985 desoldering station. Its affordable and you can get consumables, I have had mine 2 years and it has not let me down, this unit would have cut your desoldering time considerably. thought I would share
Great video, I really liked the detail in the description of what was being done. I have an 8080DB I'm working on with a similar problem, the protection circuit on this unit goes green when power is applied, but I get nothing, no sound, no meter movement, NOTHING. I went ahead and performed the work on the Dolby board, just as described here - reworked the pass-through holes on the PCB, and replaced all the caps with brand new ones. However, I'm still not getting anything, same as before, no sound, and no meter movement, does anyone have any suggestions on where to go from here? Thanks.
Awesome video man thanks for the info I'm about to get my 8080db recapped and this is definitely a question I'm going to ask them if they rebuild the Dolby board also
I know this is off the beaten path but I am having trouble finding repair/service info on a 1962 Telefunken Hymnus 5328 MX on you tube as well...I don't want to rip into it without any knowledge
Would anyone happen to have a current parts list for this job including the newer style black ribbon type cables? I'm going to be doing my 9090db dolby board soon.
a lot easier using a heat gun on the Pops you can use a paint stripper gun just redesign of the nozzles to a small nozzle for it. put some Flux on first and wave it over the pins and it'll fall out
why do you need to take the old pins out just check for continuity if there's none just re-solder them. can't see its beneficial to take the old connectors out and replace them
If some failed, assume the others will too given time, then you have to take it apart again. Also it is easier to touch up all the rivets at once, then it is test them and touch up the bad ones especially if you got a false positive and have to go back and troubleshoot the mistake. Just do them all and dont worry about it.
you should use WD40 or penetrating oil on your pots and switches after you clean them this protects them and lubricant resistance surface and stops micro arcking from happening
WD40 is not a good solution. Deoxit was engineered specifically to clean and lubricate electronic contacts like pots and switches. If a lot of oil residue is left on the component it will adhere dust and create an abrasive slurry wearing out the contacts over time. WD stands for "water displacing" and its main use is as a solvent or rust dissolver. The lubricant-like properties of WD-40 come not from the substance itself, but from dissolving components.
I'm not a big fan of WD40. I've seen it do way more damage than good after servicing thousands of units over the years. The 1/4th mineral oil composition leaves behind a residue that collects dust that turns to gunk over time.
