Heading back East to PA with the '79 Yamaha XS750 in tow! We have three more cars to look at on the way back: -'98 Saturn Crank No-Start -'06 Nissan Titan ABS -'08 Cadillac SRX Catalyst efficiency codes Enjoy! Ivan
Ivan it’s nice to see their are still people in this country like yourself that will take the time to help other people. Lately that is rate and I commend you for that. Yes I’m sure you get paid but you are still devoting your time to help others. I’m not a motorcycle fan but am still looking forward to the repair videos on your new toy. You and wife stay well and safe Artie 👍😊
One common problem with the Saturn engine was a poor connection at the coolant temp sensor. This would cause hard starting and rich running problems. A poor connection would make the temp read cooler than it actually was. The problem was so common that many aftermarket coolant temp sensors came with a new pigtail connector for the sensor also. The problem was sometimes intermittent so you had to wiggle the connection with the engine running to find it.
On the Saturn you need to pull the vacuum line off the fuel pressure regulator and check for gasoline leakage. If it leaks just a little bit it will result in a flooded engine when it sits for a while. Each time you try to start it the fuel pressure is restored and the flooded condition remains if it doesn't start. A good check for a leaking regulator is to plug the vacuum line and see how much change you get in the fuel trims.
First car it seems like the engine was flooded. You used to fix that by choke off, push the accelerator to the floor, and lots of cranking. (From memory - it's been awhile.). When it started it ran very roughly and there was lots of smoke with unburnt fuel. In these computer controlled cars many are programmed to see the full accelerator at crank as a 'flooded' signal and respond by injecting a much reduced fuel volume. They can become flooded by two very short trips when cold (eg, in the morning you drive out of the garage, wash the car, then drive back in). The next time you go to start it is flooded. I don't understand why this floods the engine, but I'm now careful to let it idle for a little while.
Glad you had great trip ama got to see several places! I wondered how it go with the cats, defouler and purge? Fun filled diags! Haha. Enjoyed the series! Many thumbs up!
flooring it while starting is flood mode. it basically cuts the fuel injectors so that it can let any gas out. That would explain the excessive smoke. Any kind of leaky fuel (in the injector) means they need to be cleaned. i had a similar issue on a 3800 series II, the MAF was broke, I ended up doing a parts Canon and after unplugging the maf it started finally! all that for that...
Had an 02 Saturn SL1 1.9 dohc in the shop with TPS codes and low rpm/ stalling codes, 105k, original owner. Complaint was stalling then a no start hot. And this is what I'm saying about older OBD 2 systems.. Don't trust codes. Look at data with a grain of salt. Prove what you're seeing on scan data. 2 other shops put new Delco TPS and IAC motors in this thing, based off codes alone. Turns out the car needed a crank sensor which I caught scoping the crank sensor, engine red hot. No signal, no start. After the crank sensor was replaced, the IAC and TPS codes never came back.
I noticed the MAF reading on the Cadillac was 1.27 g/s with the engine off, something going on there. I think that's the least of the problems with the Christmas tree lights on in the dash. The Saturn is a 98 model year with 96/97 model year wheels and it has the metal camshaft cover(91-95 model years) not the black plastic one(96-02 model years), funny the things I notice🤣. The P1624 is from the cruise control switch being turned on/off about three times. The PCM takes a "snapshot" of some of the engine sensors if you have an intermittent problem that is hard to diagnose. Kind of like a flight recorder as some people call it. The S-series were prone to bad ECT sensors as well. The sensor would crack and allow coolant to get in the connector causing corrosion. It makes the fuel mixture go haywire. I see the ECT and IAT readings were pretty much the same before running the engine so it probably is ok for right now though.
Good catch on the Saturn. That's my car... the plastic cam cover warped and was leaking oil. The ECT was replaced within the last year. It is working properly.
The first two cars were frightened of you ha ha :-D I've had the same effect with electronic devices, they behave themselves untill you give it back to the owner. They usually last 3 to 5 days then stick out there electronic tongue to the owner. There never seems to be enough screen space on your scanner for all the monitors required.
On that saturn I would have looked at the coolant temp sensor. The original ones were made of bakelite and would crack and tell the PCM the wrong temperature and the engine would flood and most would corrode the connector as well. The new sensors, released around the year 2000, are made of brass and Don't crack but would still get screwy from time to time. And to test them the air temp and trans temp sensors are all the same part and can be swapped in a pinch.
I've never done that to my 06 Frontier when flushing the system. Maybe the light came on when the leak started and no one bothered to reset the ABS before Ivan got there.
I had a GMC Jimmy with 4.3 and the EGR was always getting carbon nuggets in it. I used to take it apart and clean it. I discovered I could put it in 1st and accelerate then let off and that would clear the clog.
Yes it is possible, don't wait, book your appointment now for extremely low cost of 99.99, but wait, if you do it in the next 15 minutes, the price is only 49.99 per session.
Had a Toyota Camry do the same thing as the Saturn. Had a bad coil in the distributor. Replaced it tried to start the car and it would not start. Thought I had got a bad new coil but I checked and had Spark. Still would not fire, like you I pressed the accelerator and it started ran rough for about 20 seconds and cleared up. Has ran fine ever since. I still wonder why it would not start, only thing I can figure it may Have had excess fuel in the cylinder from cranking when the coil was bad??? Remember that scooter uses you as the bumper. My sister who’s an RN calls them a donorcycle
Although two or three perfectly plausible and valid reasons have been posited for the initial Saturn 🪐 issue, I firmly believe that the reason Ivan was able to effectively remove that issue was the following. The Saturn owner or mechanic must have inadvertently let slip the fact that Ivan was going to visit and decided the best course was to give up and fly right immediately before Ivan showed that poor little red car 🚗 who was boss in no uncertain terms. 😂👍🔧🧰
Yeah, some cars won't work right after a repair until all the codes are cleared. Simple code readers often aren't enough. Found this a few times on my own cars. Had to have my local mechanic delete the codes, my cheap code reader couldn't handle it.
@@dosgos Unless I misunderstood you, it is a problem. 'Engaging content' does not consist of showing up to somebody's home to tell them they have no issue. Maybe he gets paid each time, but it seems insulting to his intelligence.
some cars run rich when fuel tank is filled lol, that purge solenoid can be a pain and also, some cars hesitate and even shut off when the vent solenoid does not seal during a purge command lol. All have their symptoms but we all get used to it.
I'd guess bad gas and it had a big gulp of water-alcohol in the lines and injectors. then again a Saturn that age, who knows what other issues are lurking lol
I was wondering the same thing but didn’t want to appear stupid. At 73 I sometimes wonder if my ECU is still functioning according to specs. Glad someone else asked! 👏👍🔧🧰
I have a 2000 Saturn and a computer module is mounted on the engine, and the ground for the module is very sensitive, and I had to run a separate ground to a better ground source.
Seemed that the compression was low due to cylinder wash. Maybe the crankcase oil had some fuel in it from running without an O2 sensor and excessive cranking :)
**wait a minute, on second thought, didn't they have a fuel filter/pressure regulator combo around that year, maybe it stuck open and had low fuel pressure, then started working again or too high now or even fuel pump going bad and filled the filter/regulator with junk? I remember something goofy with them around that year, maybe I'm thinking wrong vehicle lol *** there was also tons of bad coolant temp sensors and plug corrosion on all gm platforms from back then. they often act intermittent and goofy, especially after driving in rain/salt/high humidity overnight.
i had a 1995 sc2 do the same thing, just cranked and cranked, finally i gave it some gas and it fired, it just was flooded, and i tried 2 days to get it running and it only has 110k miles
The map voltage at idle is wrong....in gear 1.50 volts max....you had 2.50 to 2.95 volts....while you were driving you had 4.75 volts...max is 5.0 volts.....low engine vacuum...cracked map vacuum hose...ect..ect...it started hard because it was flooded.....trims were correcting for over fueling from map voltage.....
Do you think an "Italian Tune Up" or manifold Seafoam treatment might awaken that lazy catalytic converter? I have witnessed so many cars run poorly because of short, slow driving trips.
Those were the single cam motors, for a few years they would crack in the I believe the #3 cam journal and dump oil into the cooling system. The dual cams didn't do that. I replaced several under warranty back in the day.
And here I thought all owners read the manuals. But yes, that is correct about the sohc engine. Thus to me making it just less reliable. That and just less pull and power. I have never worked on one as I like to maintain the dohc instead. If I remember correctly the crack is a casting defect and is usually located near cylinder three just as the fellow above said.
