Mauricio Corleto LoL, yes you are correct, use side cutter to pull spring back and hold... good point... for others... do not cut the cable off :) just enough pressure to hold.. thanks Mauricio...
Thank you for posting this video. Idk what I wouldve done going into this not having a clue. Disk brakes, easy. These - NOT easy. The rotors were cemented onto my 03 Saturn, but after lots of banging they came off and then I just followed the steps through. THANKS man again for posting. Great video very informative
ha! exact same thing happened to me, both linings separated and it locked my rear wheel up, i was doing 60 when it happened, not a fun experience when youre 20 miles from home. finally got her home and after about 20 minutes of pounding/prying and good ol fashioned cursing, i got the drum off and saw the single spring and said "what the -- is that?!" so thank you for making this video, i really didnt want to pay for a specialty tool (thanks GM, always making life harder one specialty tool at a time) i finally got her repaired but now there is a weird clacking noise coming from the very side i repaired...at first i thought it was the adjuster working itself into place but it hasnt stopped after several miles of stop and go driving...i really dont want to tear into it again, i rewatched your video and i feel like i did all of the steps correctly but i guess we will see
Zap Actionsdower pads are made so cheap these days. Glad you made it home and hopefully the repair worked out.. thanks for the comment, hope you have a good Christmas.
Oh, ps, the clacking sound, not sure what that is, might be worthwhile to knock the drum off and take a look, just loosen off the handbrake and the drum should come off pretty easy.. plus after you drive and not doing much braking check the temperature of drum..
John Vega it could be a bearing,, I’m not saying always. bad bearings often just start being very constant noisy. I’d check the drum condition again, that failure at 60 might have cracked it. I’m also suspicious if perhaps the parking brake spring cable detached, the new brake pad slot is pretty sloppy until you get some tension on it, it could pop out. I hope we hear back.
@@kd_enterprise3404 my single spring on mine broke in multiple places and locked up my wheel, your video saved me and helped get my Smurf blue ion back on the road
First thanks for the video. I popped the spring off with a bar,rebuilt the pads with the litte spring used a long zip tie to hold in place. Then slid the spring into place
Thanks for the video. Any time someone says "Trust me" I immediately become suspect : ) But thanks, its been a long time since I did drum brakes and this helped
Very helpful coverage….A Saturn Ion came into our possession….as a result of it sitting outside a rear brake seized and the “U” spring snapped . The way you positioned the one side, pinning the shoe without fully dropping it into the hole and then inserting the other side, made all the difference in my frustration level…did it without the tool….so glad as I’ll probably never do a drum brake repair again …..thanks so much for your effort in making this!
They’re not supposed to be this hardc, this drum brake is by far the worst I have ever seen. Just never by GM (General Motors) garbage. I curse their engineers, I know the car was made a long time ago but honestly there is no excuse for such terrible designs…
Great video . Yes he had problems with the cable but you learned what not to do . I like the box trick to catch the crud . And the white lithium greace is a plus .
Good video..thought I needed to buy a special tool to do them. Like how you didn't cut corners like telling people safety precautions and lubrication points..🖒
I did not replace the spring this time, normally they do not break, but rather become weak, and don't hold things together, if they get hot, they get weak.... mine were fine so I re-used them... thanks for watching and the comment!
Just changed my rear drum brakes on my ION . think I did it correct but now my brake pedal almost hits the floor with very little stopping power. What you think I need to do to fix? Thanks great video!
Most likely you have air in the brake lines, the first step to try is called .. bleed or bleeding the brake lines. Do a search on RU-vid, the procedure is very generic so find I high rated vid. It’s best if someone can help you. Once you complete the process check for leaks. If you live in a colder climate where they put salt on the roads it’s possible a line could be rusted out.. generally most common, air got in somehow… or the brake fluid reservoir was low and let air in, or a damaged brake line.
What is it on the bolts of the hub, it has light green color. Is it green threadlocker, or it is a residue of the blue one, but faded? Thank you for the good film.
Olena Erhardt actually that’s some lithium grease in the threads. It’s not required but I do that so the lug nuts don’t rust on. Where I live in winter they put salt on the roads and everything gets rusty...
@@kd_enterprise3404 I started to guess, bcs in one film I saw now he placed some white litium grease on those bolts. But thank you very much for the confirmation. You know I recently removed a wheel from a car for one job, saw that greenish blue staff on bolts, so when put back the wheel, added a bit of blue threadlocker (since didn't have a green one). I'll be removing it after a few days for another project, would be interesting to see the effect. Do you happen know what is a preferable threadlocker for the Inner Tie Rod (red or blue)? Thank you for the great film again.
Olena Erhardt I actually have never used thread lock on a car. Most things susceptible to coming apart use cotter pins or lock washers.. Not saying don’t use but my guess would be a type that resist oil and fuel. Not sure which it would be. Thanks for checking out the vid!
@@kd_enterprise3404 Thank you for the replay. Yes, there are many opinions, that if a certain torque specification is assigned, just better not to use any threadlocker. Some people (me including) do both. Thank you again for the film.
I appreciate you showing your mistakes and redoing things to make sure it is correct to the best of your ability. Super long video, but you did a good job.
What happens if i can't get the drum back on? Emergency brake is off and I re-tightened the bolt by the handle. The drums are just too tight to fit on.
Nick k I’m guessing, see the purple piston in my video, I’m guessing the they are not compressed in all the way, and the metal adjuster that fits between the two shoes needs to be turned in, it’s probably set to the old shoes...which means it will be too wide for the new shoes,, I actually explain this shortly after I put the drum on...
Yes both front and/or both back… I might not have mentioned, sometimes I forget that what might be obvious to some, is not to others… thanks for the comment…
Awesome video, I’m replacing the wheel cylinder since the last guy rounded off the bleeder screws. I really hate drums, might convert the rear into rotors ;)
So rge 2007 saturn ion 2 I bought would skid with both front tires when hard braking. Replaced calipers rotors and pads. Still did it. Took off rear drums. Bad cylinders both sides. Replaced cylinders and shoes. Now no more skidding front brakes when braking but now my rear driver side skids and locks up on hard braking. Never had a vehicle do that. Any suggestions?
Im on my 3rd new wheel cylinder. Everytime I put the left pad on and in place. Then every time i try to put the right side on the pressure from the left side shoe pushes the right side out too far befire a can getvthe spring in the right shoe hole and they bust and start leaking. The o rings keep busting. Only reason i wanted to change the shoes is cuz i bought the saturn with 2 bad rear wheel cylinders. What a pain.
@JOESMITH-bx8qv this sounds unusual, you should be able to compress both pins in before putting the shoes on, my only suggestion without actually being there would be to lossen the bleed valve slightly and then compress valves/pistons in at the same time. It sounds like one side when compressed is pushing the other side out too far and damaging the oring. Hope u get figured out...
Whoever designed rear brakes in Saturn ion - I hope they end up in Hell replacing rear brake shoes for the rest of eternity. It took my so and I 2 hours to slip that emergency brake link on the new shoe, including 45 minutes when my wife tried to help. I ended up having to file a lot of that new brake shoe....
Why is your hand brake spring so loose and easily pushed back. Took me almost 2 hours to try and get that spring back. Took 2 strong people and 2 sets of vise grips. My arms feel like rubber and tomorrow I have to do the passenger side! Ugh. What am I doing ao wrong😢
@@kd_enterprise3404 ahh. Musta not heard you say that. I will try tomorrow. Also had a bad cylinder but that was easy. Itctakes an e8 torx which i had to wait 2 extra days from prime. Im 42 and was always affraid of drums and shoes. But this W spring looked much easier. Also was so fustrated that it took so much strength and energy that I didn't grease anything. I dont have white lithium grease but red tacky #2 which is lithium based. Thanks for the advice. Makes sense but like I said I never touched drums or shoes so I didnt know. I was having the hardest time trying to get the drum off that my neighbor came over and said you dont have handbrake on do ya. I was like F**k!😂 Thanks for the advice and great informative video! Take care brother🤙🇺🇸🙏🔫
Guss Indica That is odd.. keep the tire on, jack up that tire off the ground so you can spin by hand.. turn it and listen close, give it a few tugs also, if the lugs are tight and some movement is felt then it could be the bearings.... not being there to see and listen makes it very difficult to diagnose.. but ya first things that comes to mind would be a bad wheel bearing, even if no back and forth movement is noted, and you hear a grinding is a good indication.. if so it needs repair ASAP.
@@kd_enterprise3404 checked it. Turns out my spare tire is a different size than the original. The Circle that holds the tire to the the drum won't go all the way in.
Lucas Garber The story dates from Classical times, but, since it was recorded only in Greek and not translated into Latin until the 15th century, it only began to gain currency after it appeared in Heinrich Steinhöwel's collection of the fables and so spread through the rest of Europe. For this reason, there was no agreed title for the story. Caxton titles it "Of the child whiche kepte the sheep" (1484), Hieronymus Osius "The boy who lied" ("De mendace puero", 1574), Francis Barlow "Of the herd boy and the farmers" ("De pastoris puero et agricolis", 1687), Roger L'Estrange "A boy and false alarms" (1692), and George Fyler Townsend "The shepherd boy and the wolf" (1867). It was under the final title that Edward Hughes set it as the first of ten "Songs from Aesop's Fables" for children's voices and piano, in a poetic version by Peter Westmore (1965).[9] There is also a musical interpretation among the ten on David P. Shortland's Australian recording, Aesop Go HipHop (2012), where the sung chorus after the hip hop narration emphasises the fable's message: "Never cry wolf - telling those lies, it’s all the same".[10] Teachers have used the fable as a cautionary tale about telling the truth, but an educational experiment in the first decade of the 21st century suggested that reading "The Boy Who Cried Wolf" increased children's likelihood of lying. On the other hand, reading a book on George Washington and the cherry tree decreased this likelihood dramatically.[11] The suggestibility and favourable outcome of the behaviour described, therefore, seems the key to moral instruction of the young. However, when dealing with the moral behaviour of adults, Samuel Croxall asks, referencing political alarmism, "when we are alarmed with imaginary dangers in respect of the public, till the cry grows quite stale and threadbare, how can it be expected we should know when to guard ourselves against real ones?"[12]
Okay do not ever I repeat *DO NOT EVER EVER EVER* apply lubricant to your brake system without extreme caution. Even a small amount of lubricant on your rotors or brake pads can easily cause your brakes to fail. If you must apply lubricant make sure to clean your rotors and brake pads with brake cleaner. Good video though, thanks for the help
