It is definitely a Driver. Never, ever change anything. No restoration needed. Just maintain for safety. Great tourer car. I own a 31 with indented firewall. Mine has the factory roll down rear window. Owned for 52 years. Never been restored original. Live in Tallahassee, Florida.
This is an awesome car! I sure would love to own it. My Mom and Dad had this exact same car and the same year. When they got married in October of 1947 they drove it to Niagara Falls for their honeymoon. I still have some pictures they took of that trip. That was quite a drive back then even though I live only an hour an a half from the Falls.
I can’t believe those hinges on the ramps were strong enough to handle the weight of a car! 👏👏👏 Great truck and hopefully another great project to come. 🤙🤙
I think you need a booster seat for the hauler , it looks like you can hardly see over the dash. 😅 Glad to see the truck used as intended and Jen did a killer job on the art work!
I just bought my first hot rod! A field find 1938 Chevy pickup, the plan is to build a late 60's early 70's "high school hot rod". Keep it simple with primer paint , a small block , drop axle and de-arched springs. You like earlier stuff but I gotta start somewhere .
I absolutely love this car. It's almost the perfect starting point for my dream car, although I would rather have a trunk than a rumble seat. Do the Old Yankee flathead swap. Add early Ford juice brakes and a '39 trans. Add a set of '35 Ford wheels with some rubber rake. No body mods, at all. I'd drive it that way, grinning from ear to ear, for the rest of my life!
Hey Guys, It's been a pleasure watching you progress from cars that the bottom half was rotted away to today when you are buying whole, running cars. The salvage of those basket cases was definitely cool and informative to watch, but the work you had to put into them made for slow projects. You've got a great crew Matt! Can't wait to see what you get into next. PS, I'm not averse to chopping running cars, especially those that are never going to get a 100 point restoration. Your money, your choice.
Not crazy about those light duty ramps. Looked like they would fold the wrong way (i.e. collapse) under a not-too-much heavier load. I get the attraction of being light weight and easy to handle, but the risk of failure seems probable. Maybe as a third component, you could fab a lateral support that folds up for stowing to nestle under the hinges preventing a catastrophic collapse. And, while you're at it, weld "lips" on high side to lock into tailgate cavity so they stay put.
The ramps are rated for over what the car weighs. They also have anchor straps that pull them down tight against the body to avoid having to add additional anchor points.
You should find a Model A club member in your area and he would be glad to explain the spark and throttle levers on the column and answer any questions about it!
That's really cool that a model A fit in the back of BIG RED perfect that's what y'all are into. The more you run the BIG RED you know what you need for it.
So much i could say but its all good i wouldnt walk away from it if i had the money and like you said its a driver not a show car keep it just like it is👍👍
Dude Matt I love you and what your doing saving all the old antique cars and trucks and keeping a party of America history live again, I'm the same way, I keep buying everything I can, keep up the great work brother
Lowered suspension, V8, steel wheels. On a screen, the black paint looks okay. And the interior (once the floor is on) is sweet - love those 'olde worlde' door pockets!
Call it the first popular epoxy paint's name.... the Imron A? Perhaps per johna1160 suggestion, aluminum sandwich a frames having a chain spreader with hooked turnbuckle for elevation level adjustments. I would add flanges to the inside, either flat aluminum plates or rectangular tubing projecting 3 or 4 inches. If you need high centering clearance for dragging something on or off the ramps could be exchanged side to side. The alternator mounting fix? Improve the bracket's rigidity, adapt a popular modern motor cam chain idler spring to the design and let the nator pivot? Might have include a flex pigtail to your kit ...... we were molding alternator winding bobbins for the Big 3 during the 90,000 warranty era. They were getting 120,000 miles minimum before any failures. One introduced a high performance 4 valve 4 cylinder engine, when many of those models passed 60,000 the alternator died. The engine was so responsive when the ignition was turned off the winding solder joint would flex, work harden and break! We had to add an anti-rotation lug in our mold to the bobbin's wire entry port to stop the failures! 24:24
What a nice foundation for a 1950s style hot rod with a dropped axle, reversed eye spring leaves and juce brakes and with or with out fenders. Add an Olds or Caddy engine and it would be period correct as many of us did so we could keep up with the 55 Chevys.
Thank you Matt and Steve for the update on how things are going there ! I read all of the comments on here , noticed a few telling you to things or negative things ! Why they be nice and understand that you thought stuff through before doing it ! Besides it your life and your truck ! Take care , stay safe , healthy and the tires underneath you !
You guys need to have a positive attachment point for those ramps I’ve seen cars fall off using ramps like that 😬 especially when driving a car on . Be safe 👍
@@IronTrapGarageSo, if you were up in North Dakote, or Montana. doesnt really matter, its January, and you really need to go to Houston Texas. You have two cars, a Model A original, and one with a Flathead V8, and lets be real, both converted to 12V, you have your spare parts like a distributor and a carburettor (at least for the stock car Ive been told), would you choose the V8? Really?
The fan built on the Model A might be too long. The alternator should be bolted down tight and that bracket should be pushing against it. Leave about a half inch playing in the belt.
Those rumble seats is a great way to get rid of your mother in law when needed, I guess thats why it's only called a mother in law seat over here. One hard tap on the break and shes gone.
I don't have any money, but I am wondering what price ranges a person should expect to pay for one like that one, or one that's just a body or a collection of parts?
15K assuming it doesn't need anything major. He'll probably get more for it, though. It's a late '31-has the indented firewall. Body and collection of parts? who knows. I bought one that was a basket case back in the late 80's for 3 grand.
5-8k for a nice body or a solid “barn find” roller that needs everything. Expect 10-15k for a running/drivable “driver quality” car and 17-25k for a really nice one. Coupe and roadsters bring these prices. Sedans bring a bit less.
If I may ask,what did this 5 window set you back ? Im wondering because a guy I know has a 1931 model A convertible hes talking about selling, its in decent shape , all stock . I dont really know about condition of the body .
Not saying that’s not a good idea but it’s fairly easy to load cars as is. Maybe if we get all the other upgrades done on the truck I’d like we can get that done!
F600 from early sixties with a diesel engine.? I never heard of such an animal. It. Should be hauling dirt not cars. Sell it and use t.he money to buy a nice tandem car hauling trailer and you won't risk rolling something off the side of those cra
That the worst hauler I’ve seen … it’s to high .. ur going to callaps thos ramps or if u ever loose ur cable ur going to have a runaway car … should be a low boy
@@tomkrisel4493 jus thought him being a pretty top HOT ROD builder he’d be more knowledgeable about something simple like that .. I’ve been building 45+ yrs
Ramps are rated for over what the car weighs. Why would you loose the cable? Hook your winch correctly and it isn’t a problem. I think we demonstrated here how quick and controlled loading a car is onto our truck. Sure it sitting lower might be a bit more ideal but this works just fine as-is.
