Such a large site with long distances requires more depth at the outfall. Lot of work, but I like how your guys hang in there and how your concrete team can help with the grading.
The best part of your videos is showing the “fruits of your labor”!! That’s what us “water-aholics” and civil engineers want to see!!! Where was the concrete 12-14” culvert pipe coming from? Looks like a small retirement facility…..I bet they were enjoying the entertainment for a few days……. Thanks again Shawn and the boys!!!
the place I rent had the same problem, no drainage.... had water plants growing in the flood areas, until I cut trenches to the storm water drains, now its nice and dry.
Best drainage videos I’ve seen. PVC is the best! I converted all my old corrugated french drains and yard drains to SDR35 (PVC). It works much better! Also, I love seeing the drains in action at the end of your videos. Great work, sir!
You guys should invest in some Rigid straplock strap wrenches for seating those larger diameter pvc lines when gluing! They make it so much easier 🙏🏼 great work as always
I did residential construction, remoding, framing,roofing ,siding, windows, doors, cabinets, sunrooms, 12 yrs ago. Economy went bad again so I got my cdl. Enjoy what you do 👍
I’d love to see what your new installation looks like inside from a pipe camera, the type the jetters use. Just for us watching. Also to make sure nothing is crushed after machinery drives over it.
Really enjoying your videos, like seeing contractors with proper well maintained equipment to perform the job in a professional timely manner. Your crew also seems to be switched on and work well together. I worked for a company about 20 years ago doing water mains and concrete storm drain pipe. The machines were in such disrepair it seemed like something broke every hour. Stay safe, cheers from your new subscriber in L.B.I. N.J.
I might suggest that you scrape the outlets with a sharp blade so as not to leave a burred edge- a clean edge looks more finished and professional--JCB-just an idea, it’s nice to see a conscientious contractor overseeing his handiwork
There's an interesting illusion towards the end. It looks like the one pipe that caught a handful of gutters is flowing a lot more water than the one that is catching the entire back side of the building.... But the one on the back is a 6" pipe, vs 4". It's interesting how the pipe looks the same on camera.
It’s amazing that so many buildings are constructed with no consideration of water damage and where the water will go from guttering etc. Have builders and architects heard of a thing called precipitation?
You could have stayed shallow the entire way "provided" your sealed pipes extended all the way to the gutter itself. The water would have flowed just fine thanks to gravity.
Watching these videos keeps me wondering if building constructors disobey rules for rainwater disposal or if there simply are none in the US - and also that the water is led to the street making it somebody else' problem. Here in Denmark, if you make a construction with a roof you have to lead the water either to the rainwater sour system or to a fascine on your own ground - never out to the street.
Hi Jesper - Keep in mind you're seeing the worse problems on my channel. The streets are all part of the stormwater management system so we use them as such.
@@GCFD Thank you for replying. If the streets drains are already prepared for the water from all the houses, then in makes perfect sense what you are doing. Thanks for clearing that for me.
Shawn, I just found your channel and really like your vlogs. You’ve got a new subscriber for sure. I appreciate the filming and narrative. I also like when you revisit a job site when it’s raining to show that your fix is working. Would it be possible to catch the outflow and work out the flow rate (litres/min) please? Thank you.
you must be from a desert area. all that water goes to a collection tank, the ocean, then it gets recycled, in to clouds, and delivered, as rainwater. exactly how do you think we can improve on that system?
Everyone does it here. The thing is 99% of those don't cause problems. You're seeing the worst cases on my channel because I specifically do drainage work.
Been watching a few of your videos and like you attention to deals and quality of work. One thing that I think would help with quality is investing in a Sod Cutter. I think if you cut and roll up the sod in the places you are going to drive over and spots that you are going to trench, then once the job is completed, unroll and replace the sod instead of setting new seed, you would have an much better final product.
Nice advice Rob! I did buy a sod cutter and added a 24" blade onto it. I offered it to lots of customers just like you said, but no one ever cared about the sod being replaced instead of seed. I sold the sod cutter since I never used it once.
@@GCFD definitely makes sense. I figured there was a reason behind it as I can see you attention to detail and taking the extra steps to make it right is on point.
Great advice. We have been wondering about getting a sod cutter. I think I will have to do lots of country club work before it would pay for itself. Most jobs folks just want the seed and straw and keep moving.
10/10, 6in smooth-wall only needs .49% slope to self-clean so your 1/4-bubble(~2% slope) is plenty. You probably didn't need the extra inch but on my DIY-setup I regret not using eccentric-reducers, as the deeper-discharge would have increased my CB's discharge-rate.
Shawn, much of what you're having to do should have been done when the building was built. However thankfully for you it wasn't because it gave you and your crew some money for groceries and fuel. Great Job You Guys 👍
First of all , love the vids. With that said , I cannot believe it’s not a code to plumb downpipes to stormwater in the states , or at least your state Seems like half your vids are about tackling this simple problem that could have been avoided at construction
That would create way too much surface water if they were all plumbed to the creeks. Keep in mind you're seeing the worst cases on my channel since I specialize in this type of work. 👍
I watch many of your videos and I have to ask one question; why do you always use the straw on top of the dirt? It doesn't look very nice but I am guessing it fills some important function but I don't understand why?
Hi Leif - The straw protects the bare soil from raindrop splash, it protects the grass seed from birds, it holds moisture, and releases nutrients as it decomposes for the grass seedlings. We cover all disturbed soil with seed and straw.
Great job on catching and directing the water. Only problem I see is those piles of rocks at the end of the drains gonna make it a bitch for the lawn mower guys. Maybe in the future you can work on applying some type of popup end caps that the mowers can drive over instead of using a pile rocks. Just saying. :) Thanks for the Vids
Great point James. I like my pipes to end up in the air so any debris will easily flow out of them. I prioritize function and less maintenance of the drainage system over other things, though the rocks will be a hassle to mow around.
If you been watching some of Shawn's videos you will know why pop up caps are a bad idea .. they look great, but greatly restrict water flow and having water sitting in a pipe will cause failure down the road even in PVC I would imagine.
Great job! So I've got a question, I've seen other guys pipe the gutters into a French drain, won't the gutter water just go through the holes in the French drain? Seems like gutters shouldn't be tied into a French drain?
Great question! You never, ever, ever want to take water that's already contained in a pipe and send it into a french drain (pipe with holes in it). I see this all the time and a confusion that a french drain is a *place* to send water to. A FD is a collection system for non-point water. If I catch gutters and run then in a FD's trench, I always keep the gutter water in a solid pipe, separate from the FD perforated pipe.
I've been trying to figure out how to make that work for me. I need to find a mount that will attach to the trencher and stay vertical as the boom pivots down deeper. Still trying to make that work.
I could be wrong... But isn't the rip rap generally supposed to go UNDER the outlet of the pipe..? Isn't it supposed to help hold the soil in place where the water hits it..? I mean obviously you can put some on top too to help hold the pipe down... But I thought the whole point of it was to give the water a place to land that isn't just soil. That way it can't just wash it all away...
Yes Kyle - I would never, ever, ever send surface water into the footer. Around here we have clay, so the water doesn't percolate down through the soil very quickly. In this case, we had surface water that was hanging against the foundation, so our solution kept the surface water as surface water and moved it away from the foundation. If you have sandy soils then a footer drain might work better, but not in our area.
@@GCFD Aha! thanks for getting back to me, I have clay soil here in NJ. Besides re-directing water I also wanted to re-waterproof my blocks so I figured I would install french drains while I had it dug out. Sounds like, I re-waterproof, back fill, tamp it down and than dig a trench a couple feet away from foundation. Separate pipes for gutter vs perforated schedule 40. That is how you would do it? Thanks! And If so, that would also make getting it daylight easier too.
So many of your water disposal end points would be a bad idea in a Northern climate. (I have to stop a comment, frequently, and remember in the South water freezing is a non issue)
How has this site faired since completion? Has the low spot in back dryed out some? What about the soil near the building...How's the courtyard doing? They still ok with the discharge lines landing at those parking bumpers? just wondering as I watch this for the umpteenth time..
I do if the customer wants me to. We use 14/2 outdoor rated romex or just a bare copper wire. We duct tape it along the pipe ad leave it sticking out at a cleanout.
I disagree. If the pipe has no fall, the water that holds represents back pressure that takes away from the flow. Flow is extremely important because the faster water moves the larger particle it can carry in suspension.
@@GCFD it may slow flow a little but think of the high spot like a dam wall. Once the dam is full it flows over the high spot. This principle is used to fill water tanks with rainwater when the pipes are underground here in Australia.
@@GCFD if you're draining ground water I agree but off a roof it'll flush through being mostly clean. I would aim for fall but wouldn't be bothered with a slight hump. Setup a test and see how much difference it doesn't matter
Shawn you’re right with the continuous fall. No humps or dips. Roof granules, dust, (several weeks of no rain builds up dust in the gutters then the first rain washes this dust into our pipe) and leaf debris add up fast in any low spot in a subterranean drainage system. Then this will clog. Then the property owner is wondering why he paid me to build a system that wouldn’t self clean. The humps and dips in flex pipe is part of why they clog.
8:15 Wouldn't it have been faster to trench with the chainsaw trencher to dig the bulk of the trench and then widen it where needed with the mini-excavator?
11:47 I notice when you're gluing the 4" white PVC, you only use 1 chemical but when gluing the 6" grey pipe (PVC?), you use 2 different chemicals, what are they?
@@GCFD I have always heard it called a bush hog here in Kentucky. Regional differences in language is always interesting. Great job with the drainage fix as always!
The way to fix this is not a conduit to the parking lot - but to bring up to grade where the the land dips all around the foundation wall - which is apparent all the way around the building. It looks like when the foundation was back-filled it was not tamped down properly - so now it has sagged and sits under the level of the high point of the landscaping (which the sidewalk is sitting on). By simply adding soil all around the building the water from the drain pipes will sheet across the sidewalk and across the landscaping away from the building. EDIT: Top the berm and push it against the foundation; seed and straw; done.
Hi Michael - we did top the berm and push it against the foundation. that was for rainfall. But there way way too much water coming off the roof that was discharging in the yard with nowhere to go. We gave that water a path out of there where it is no longer a problem. Thanks for watching!
Documenting yourself jackhammering a foundation footer on video could eventually come back to haunt you, just sayin. Unless you first got permission from the owner - in writing or filmed/recorded to prove it in court.
That footer is none the worse for being clearances a little. Especially given their is no weight bearing on the top of it there. The foundation overall however is much better off without the erosion.
Like Caffine said above. That was extra concrete from the footer away from the foundation. The water was what was causing the foundation to deteriorate so the property manager chose to address the water.
@@mitchjones2821 I was just pointing out the lack of his safety glasses which would help keep flying stuff out of his eyes which would not only cause blindes, it would most likely be painful.
Everybody knows you should wear safety glasses, ear plugs or muffs, chainsaw chaps, helmets and condoms! It’s a simple fact of life. People like yourself all over the internet think they’re are intellectually superior by pointing out this disregard it is getting old.