Say Goodbye to Rising Damp - A Simple Solution!

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Dryrod Damp Proofing Rods
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Dryrod Damp-Proofing Rods - The Ultimate Rising Damp Treatment
Dryrod Damp-Proofing Rods are patented fibre rods that carry a powerful water-repellent material. They are simply inserted into holes drilled at regular intervals along a mortar course. Once inserted, the rods diffuse their water-repellent material along the mortar course, curing to form an effective barrier to rising damp.
They have been scientifically proven to eliminate rising damp even in highly-saturated walls. This performance has also been internationally tested and approved.
- Eliminates rising damp without needing specialist pumps or injection tools
- Simple installation procedure - Just drill, clear and install
- Outperforms competing treatments, even in highly-saturated walls
- 100% active ingredient patented technology
- Extensively tested and internationally approved
Find out more from Safeguard.
www.safeguardeurope.com/produ...
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#risingdamp #damp #dampproof
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Опубликовано:

11 окт 2022

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Комментарии : 541

@Nettsinthewoods 8 месяцев назад

I’ve just been installing the rods. I’ve not done anything like this before. It’s amazingly easy, but hard work for a small female like me. I’ve got the Stormdry express waterproof mortar to tidy up the holes. It’s always so helpful to have tutorials like these and see what the professionals do. Thank you

@medwayhospitalprotest 6 месяцев назад

"Every day's a school day" must be one of my favourite expressions ever. I love learning! That's why I love this channel. Thanks bro.

@mikeraphone6745 Год назад

The old pub in East Hagbourne called the travelers welcome had a unpainted brick exterior. When the property was sold and converted into a house the owners complained about the damp . It was there painting of the old clay bricks stopped the wall from breathing and it was down hill all the way. The solution I told them is to strip off the outside paintwork as that was causing the problem.

@rodmills4071 Год назад

I see people here in australia paint old houses and decks with acrylic paint. If it's no maintained, that's the end of the timber... dryrot. The moisture gets in and can't get out. Like wrapping it in plastic. 🤔😎🇦🇺👌

@Mr_Kenneth Год назад

Wow! Not seen these rods before and going to check them out. Have progressive damp that looks like its come from old mortar thats crumbled away due to a large bush next to the outer wall. Thanks boys. As you say - every days a school day!

@waynewinky2754 Год назад

As an architect following investigation if the root cause of the damp cannot be identified and remedied on site, then we sometimes specify an injected DPC resin system into the masonry applied at around 150mm above floor level. Internally we then specify 2 coats of a painted waterproof coating system, whether it be bitumen based or liquid tanking applied to the exposed brick/block from the floor level up to and 50mm above the injected DPM line so that their is a continuous barrier at the base of a wall if water is trying to move upward. However, we would then specify a lime plaster scratch coat and finishing coat as it allows the plaster to breath compared to standard gypsum plasters. Lime plaster is used in damp and cold environments like churches as it doesnt show any inherent damp or tide marks visually caused by a damp masonry substrate.

@halbrauncertifiedtherapist2426 4 месяца назад

Could you make a video on this

@daves4026 Год назад

Used it on a terrace chimney breast which was salting on the plaster surface. So far so good. Viewers should note the rods have a best before date as the chemical has an active ingredient so there is a shelf life to unopened rods

@kevinhancock4064 Год назад

Good to lmow buddy I may get these to help our issue I believe similar to yours .

@flumoxeduk2379 Год назад

Same here got the rods, and about to do it over the weekend. Did you chase off ALL the plaster upto say a metre? Or just tidy it up and repaint?

@huntergatherer8972 Месяц назад

How have you found having the rods in? Has it worked?

@Asgardsteve1 Год назад

I was trying to remember what these were called from your last video on these for a a couple of clients I need them for, good timing.

@bp4682 Год назад

i had severe rising damp on an internal fire breast wall i used the Dryzone rods , 7 months on the wall is Bone dry....thanks to watching one of your videos Roger

@RLFWE1 11 месяцев назад

The external cement render is probably a big contributor, not vapour permeable. Well done on putting the "french drains" in that's definitely going to help.

@m4inline Год назад

I used these on my garage wall but miscalculated the wall thickness and drilled straight into my winter tyres.

@completepreservation Год назад

WOW….Must be the only house of cavity construction without a physical damp proof course. At least eliminate bridging of the damp proof course by plaster, solid floor, or debris within the cavity…. What about drains, or even a mains leak. All of these are common problems that an averagely competent damp specialist should eliminate to find the root cause🤷 not a dig Roger, but you have massive following that you normally educate. I’ve learnt plenty from your vids over the years though 👍

@coxy1984 Год назад

Couldn't agree more. Taking the skirting off and having a quick check for bridging could of saved that customer a fair bit of money.

@GavinLawrence747 Год назад

@@coxy1984 but that doesn't sell damp proof rods!

@twmd Год назад

totally! find the root cause.

@johnmusgrave3179 Год назад

I live in a house 20 years younger than the one in the video. The dpc is slate as was normal in those days but the sides of the chimneys and window bays bridge the cavities. There is only so much you can do!

@hunchanchoc8418 Год назад

My 130 year old house surprisingly has cavity walls. But no dampproof course. Or foundations. They just laid big flagstones on the earth and started building the walls on top. The soil is only about 14 inches below the floor. It's very very damp.

@johnclowes3894 Год назад

Love your vids always so informative. Thank you.👍

@wendymaybury6329 Год назад

Thank god I saw your video. My old house was built in 1880 and suffers, 😭 so do I because of the damp! So cheers 😁

@vooveks Год назад

Wow, zero downsides, caveats or bad user experiences! I Enjoyed that infomercial, and I’ve immediately ordered 300 of them 😵‍💫. Order now, and receive a free set of steak knives!

@stevenmarquiss9213 9 месяцев назад

The outside skin of brickwork with a cavity was designed with a view to take the rain and then dry out. The air gap between the inner and outer skin may have been bridged with mortar etc on the wall ties. Thus encouraging damp to traverse these "bridges" making the inner wall damp. Insulated cavities use other technology together rid of moisture build-up, ie drip vents in the perpendicular motar lines.

@bruce-le-smith Год назад

super helpful thanks, I like that tube on the cement drill bit trick. I'm new to using the Bosch Bulldog and I find it's quite easy to accidentally overdrill (once the stop bar wasn't fully locked and moved on me, and once I changed from a 12mm to a 14mm bit and didn't realize they were slightly different lengths). I assumed it's cause I'm a noob, but I like those tricks that take the thinking/fussing out of work.

@kevinhancock4064 Год назад

Many drills come with a depth stop does same thing tbh but def good idea

@sarahjones753 Год назад

I just use a piece of yellow frog tape on my drill bits to mark the length. Easy

@flashtheoriginal Год назад

Superb stuff. Proper Craftsmen, total professionals

@chasnbons Год назад

Brilliant video. I've just bought the kit and it arrived today. I wondered if you or any of your subscribers could tell me what the opposite end of the rod cutter is used for? Thanks

@dave1secondago Год назад

brilliant info and vid guys

@kevinp4771 5 месяцев назад

Your channel is amazing! Thanks for everything you are doing! Hoping to move into an old Victorian place soon and damp is an issue in the rear section which is basically half the house underground. Do you think these could be installed internally as well and plastered back over?

@klaxon68 2 месяца назад

Great video, I've never heard of them, great when you explain how they work too. Thanks

@bobhindle7958 Год назад

Geat video thanks. How do you know you've hit the mortar line on the inside wall ?

@everydaybiker Год назад

Magic. Thanks for the video

@niceiceman Год назад

Thank you for your another great video

@houseinavan194 Год назад

My thought's....many cavity walled houses I have worked on had the BPC bridged by decades of debris, the solution is take out a few bricks at intervals scuff your arms to pieces getting in there to clear the Debis to below BPC, one I did has 400mm built up!!!, then put in several air brick's along the wall, no return of internal damp after severe years, keep the solution simple in keeping with the construction of the building.

@SuperRomanHoliday 2 месяца назад

This is such fantastic information

@swift_learn Год назад

I have had the exact same problem on a Victorian built house 1911. The plasterer said it was salts but its come back after. This video is brilliant but is it 9 inches for all houses that need to be drilled? Thanks

@billrook829 8 месяцев назад

Will this technique work if you have damp coming in from above.I have s flat under s house snd damp comes in from soil surrounding and from associated contact with steps and structures above?

@antonyporter5045 Год назад

great video + great feedback on Amazon too

@SimonHunter1959 Год назад

Key moment at 1:49 "we decorated the outside to stop any penetrating damp". Presumably with the bitumen? The salts on the inside wall look fairly recent so it is plausible that they only appeared AFTER the bitumen was applied. Bitumen won't let the bricks breathe naturally so the salts (carried via moisture) have to go somewhere. Was the bitumen applied as a response to damp issues elsewhere? But yes, would agree with other comments that the source needs to be established first eg remove the skirting, check for bridging of plaster to floor, floor coverings, floor, water/drain pipes etc.

@twmd Год назад

but its a cavity wall. so the main issue in these houses is rubble and cavity wall insulation - it's an absolute must to inspect the cavity - should always take out a few bricks

@davidhunt1760 Год назад

I agree, the second I heard him say they had painted the outside I was thinking a different way to Roger. Sounds like the mositure is pushing out around the sides of the slab. I would ease off the skirting boards and check the plasterboard wasn't touching the slab also. First time I've disagreed with Roger however

@vimtohasatoe1 Год назад

Hi we've had vinyl floor in the passage there was damp in the floor so we had a damp proof membrane and finding slight damp coming up surrounding walls. Will the rods be enough to sort the issue? Thanks

@BealRutcher Год назад

Wow, thanks, never heard of this.

@philprice12 Год назад

I believe the small amount of damp would be dispersed if you had sandblasted the useless bitumen coating off to let the wall breath. Also cleaning out the debris from the cavity would solve this. Pointing the holes with cement rather than lime mortar will also not help the wall breath. Last job we did was an old Manse that was dripping wet. We dug out the floors and fitted underfloor heating . After cutting 3 foot sections through the 9 inch solid walls with a concrete chain saw . Fitted 9 inch dpc through the wall repointed and came back 2 weeks later to cut out the 3 foot in between and over lapted the pieces of dpc THen did the 4 inch internal walls the same way . So the whole house was sliced through and a perfect damp barrier installed. 3 chains used at £290 each. Saw cost 2 grand. Was water fed so a messy job. You could sell the saw on after doing the job. Doubt you can hire these. Brilliant tool slices concrete/ mortar like butter. The only way to do a perfect damp cure on an old house. Phil

@SkillBuilder Год назад

Hi Phil I have one of those saws but you can cut out lime mortar with a block saw of recip saw with tile cutting blade. I don't like the bitumen but the damp is on the inner skin so your theory is not applicable to that. The damp was there before the bitumen. breathe not breath.

@kevinhancock4064 Год назад

@Skill Builder hi mate love your channel so informative and how you meet woth other skilled people . I'm a qualified brickie I do mostly jobs I fit in around main job 4 now (family and security wins here ) I can run my hand over bottom of front room above skirts and paint will be kn my hand it's clearly not dry snd tbh fed up of trying to make good that wall . I've in the past (past house with an ex) had damp done . And a good job was done. That time the walls were hacked off a metre up and tanked and replastered. . I think those pods be an easier place to start 4 now I'm not to bad at plastering but if I can get it done easier I'd like to . And maybe a water proofer on outer skin. But bearing in mind I have a pebble dashed house with 100mm gap at bottom where red tile has been fixed(easily removed)

@SokHuyLau-iz8yq 6 месяцев назад

Hi! do you such works? How can I contact you to carry out such works? Do you cover W2 area in London or know anyone who does?

@AliMohammed-tq8ym 11 месяцев назад

Hi Roger Wonder if you can help I need to do the dry damp rods but don’t have a mortar line to drill in to as it’s all rendered up . Thank you Regards Ali

@carolinemcgreal2382 Год назад

Great info guys,.. thanks for sharing'

@mickandrews9458 6 месяцев назад

Great video, thanks. Spoke to the dryrod people who said that attempting to hit the inner wall perps from the outside was hit and miss. I note this is what is done in the video. If it works, it is a far better for the owner than having to do from the inside, potentially removing kitchen units and all the rest of it. Every had any issues with the outside in approach? Thanks

@leemacgregor1 Год назад

Hi Roger, I've literally just ordered these rods as I'm currently converting our basement and adding an extension onto the house, the house is 2 story at the front and 3 at the back, the basement was an open area before from garden level. The walls of the house are brick cavity which go all the way to basement, DPC level was 600mm basement level, I have used tanking slurry to waterproof the internal walls then foam grabbed 37mm insulation plasterboards on. I drilled a hole through cavity wall this morning which was the original external wall now part of interior as extended out 2.4m. The external bricks (now internal) were damp, so I've ordered these sticks and tanked tat wall too. Any help advise would be much appreciate. Cheers Lee

@joncarolepaish2899 Год назад

Tanking a damp/wet wall is only hiding the problem! The answer is to let the moisture naturally out by using a properly breathable lime plaster and mineral based paints which also breathe properly. By tanking the walls you'll trap the moisture in and the salts from the ground will eventually cause the bricks to crumble. The se dry rods might stop further moisture ingress, but you've got to let the existing moisture out!

@itfben 7 месяцев назад

amazing video. thank you.

@st6217 Год назад

Thanks Roger! Am just confronting a cowboy job without any damp coursing on a new build that some expert wants to use paste on. Problem is that one whole external wall can't be accessed. Since those rods can be inserted from inside - problem solved.

@DOCTORDROTT Год назад

Got a question, on the second floor we have very old plaster that has a dusty surface, what causes that ? can a pva solution be brushed onto the plaster to stabilise it ? thanks

@kranson8514 3 месяца назад

Brilliant option 👏

@Dave-in-France 5 месяцев назад

Excellent, clearly explained video, as always. These dry rods seem to be a pretty good product, I'll have to get some.😃😃

@Bonsaicrazy Год назад

Hi fella if you had a fry patch in the middle of a wall. Would these work

@johngreen8693 10 месяцев назад

Interesting, many thanks!

@matthewsachaullymce279 Год назад

Yes.. very simple 👍🏻

@theK174 3 месяца назад

I have a similar situation but on stone cavity walls. Can this be applied in the same way ? Regards

@willdrake6646 9 месяцев назад

I have used the dry rods, and I'm still having issues. I even put a second layer under the floor on my Victorian terrace in Brixton. What would be your other suggestion? Re-render with Slka 1 on the interior or add a membrane-like your other video?

@SkillBuilder 9 месяцев назад

I am sorry to hear that DryRods haven't solved your problem. Can you send me photographs? I will come and look if you like because I am not far away but I would need to film if for Skill Builder

@willdrake6646 9 месяцев назад

@@SkillBuilderno problem at all. How would you like me to send the photos?

@Mike_5 Год назад

Bridged cavity is the arch enemy of all walls but very nice skilled job done here

@mikesmith1485 Год назад

LOL, was the "blood pressure" comment from you, Dylan? Great content as always, boys. I learn so much from your channel, and you make me laugh into the bargain. Keep it up, lads!

@only1kingofsing Год назад

Will these rods dampproof the last inch as if you think the damp could be seeping up from inside floor it could still make its way up through the inside inch the rods never covered....

@eugenemcgowan2575 Год назад

Would dry rods work in a stone built house. Our house. has 1m thick walls and we have a damp problem.

@robertkavanagh8202 Месяц назад

Roger i have problem on reveal next to my patio which as sodden one piece of m d f but not showing sign of damp on brickwork reveal

@dannylong8382 Год назад

Hi I’ve got rising damp from a block internall wall , but it’s bin layed on a concrete pad, , how do i get around this please ??

@tonyfrancis9793 Год назад

How do then deal with the hygroscopic dampness in the internal plaster🤔

@hoperegenesis8553 7 месяцев назад

We have rising damp on a cobb wall cottage . Can we use rods ?

@Matrixresin Год назад

Good video Roger, get that block paving up and get some resin down to help with the water away 😂😂😂

@beccahart2087 Год назад

What can I do about this happening on an internal wall of a 300 year old house? The wall in question is the original external wall but with an extension built approx 40 years ago, hope that makes sense! Thank you for your time and great video as always

@fimack8279 Год назад

Watch Peter ward videos. Don’t drill holes in the walls etc etc

@DavidOwen1978 Год назад

Would you use the rods on a single wall construction?

@TineBeo 2 месяца назад

good team there!

@tullgutten Год назад

Outside drain below house foundation and waterproofing the foundation is really the first and number one option but the concrete/brick can hold in water for many months

@willbee6785 Год назад

Be brutal. Check rainwater down pipes under the ground at the point of dampness. Take out some plinth bricks to see the cavity detail and to check for a d.p.c. Dig a trench at same location for clues. Lift that room flooring and do the same; dig down below expected d.p.c. height to investigate build details. Use your technical X-ray specs (knowledge) and using process of elimination to eventually come up with a permanent solution. Specifically in the video, that plinth paint is definitely not helping, plus the wall paint; what type is it? There’s a lot more things you can do, but each building has it’s problems and solutions. It’s having the knowledge and experience to solve them.

@AQIB32 9 месяцев назад

Help!

@lksf9820 Год назад

"We decorated the outsides" There is the issue right there, they've locked the moisture into the walls and it can't get out. So they've charged the customer for causing a damp issue, then charged them again to try and cure it. If you took the paint off you'll find the brickwork is sopping wet. Looking in the background in the first few seconds shows similar houses with no paint on them, i'd be asking them if they have any issues first.

@Scott-cm8sv Год назад

Completely agree. Good intentions, lack of research.

@patrickhouston2610 Год назад

And you know what happens to brick when you lock in the moisture, the brick will eventually fall apart, collapse and some moisture through evaporation may still escape into the cavity air space, especially if there is no decent ventilation.

@jhutfre4855 10 месяцев назад

@lksf9820 True, they also didn't say anything about the temperature in the room. If it "feels cold." Already an indication if a cement render was used along with obvious question if the issues were there before.

@RogerThat2021 Год назад

Will these dry rods work with a stone built house ? Our mortar is not in a straight line like brick.

@michaelburgess2993 4 месяца назад

Hi. I have an internal wall in a bedroom of an old cottage, that is built with stones. It’s is a cupboard at present but I want to convert it to an up stair toilet and sink. The out side walls are good and a new roof and tiles have been replaced. The inner wall gets damp in a lot of cold or wet weather. My question is, can I fit dry rods in the wall from inside the house. Many Thanks.

@MrTanahmed 10 дней назад

Is this limited to external walls or can it be used on internal shared wall as have what looks like rising damp on shared wall with neighbours house

@user-lo3qb4gh9k 8 месяцев назад

Can this be used inside homes? Between two walls that divide one house from another?

@pjmoseley243 Год назад

My house was built in a slight dip where rain pooled looking back I remember the carpet underlay would always smell damp. many years later far past the 10 year NHBC Its still damp. and smells damp. I missed the chance to get it properly surveyed by a soil specialist I imagine its lost alot of value due to this. Is all Lost for me?

@spencerphillips983 10 месяцев назад

Interesting, so for this job it's purely exterior? You don't have to do this on the inside?

@jimh4072 Год назад

I had dampness on an upstairs bedroom wall caused by cracks in the render. I was told the wall had to have breathable paint to let the moisture out. After two years of problems I bought some wet rot hardener that is basically a very liquid plastic. I sprayed it on the outside of the wall with a cheap hand sprayer (thrown away afterwards) two months later and the inside wall is almost dry. I am painting over it with some stain block paint then normal masonry paint. Saved me a fortune in re rendering costs.

@johnburns2940 Год назад

Right on man. Want a job done right? Think about it, ask questions, then do it yourself.

@UnseenSpirit Год назад

May I ask what brand you bought? I have the same issue now

@jimh4072 Год назад

@@UnseenSpirit Hi, it was Ronseal wet rot hardner for wood. Buy the larger size as it works out cheaper. Make sure to wear a good mask and eye protection if spraying chemicals like this. You can paint it on with a brush, but beware as it’s extremely liquid (just like water) so can be messy.

@UnseenSpirit Год назад

@@jimh4072 hi Buddy, thanks for that. I'll look into it. Seems serious stuff so I'll have to becareful for sure

@AmbionicsUK 8 месяцев назад

Thanks gents. Just subbed

@SkillBuilder 8 месяцев назад

Thanks for the sub!

@phillacey926 2 месяца назад

Dryrods permeate through mortar joints..i worked for Surrey timber preservation for 40 years..also called Gulliver' timber treatment run by roger Gulliver' 👍

@davidvestey6014 Год назад

As a Chartered Building Surveyor I make my living diagnosing damp problems. The house wasn’t damp when it was built so often it is a question of just reversing all the “improvements” that people have made. Now you have tried to insert a DPC just above the internal floor level so if it works (which I doubt) you have trapped all the rising damp in the skirtings, exactly where you don’t want it. Ask a Chartered Building Surveyor… we don’t sell products.

@JackSmith-kp2vs 10 месяцев назад

@davidvestey6014 Why not just lime render and plaster the wall and use a breathable paint. What is the obsession with trapping damp in. Walls have to breath

@izoyt 7 месяцев назад

do these work on stone walls also? probably it is better to do some filling/injecting of the cavities first (usually, stone walls have gaps in the middle etc), so this thing can disperse via fillings, right? thank you.

@genonandre9072 4 месяца назад

Un mur de pierre doit respirer ;ils sont montés à la terre et chaux ;pour les anciennes maisons +- deux cents ans. Les enduits intérieurs a la chaux et sable ordinaire, la façade rejointoyée et peint doit avoir des grilles d'aération tous les soixante centimètres pour éliminer l'humidité montante. 🤟

@rosskennedy8895 9 месяцев назад

Why do we need to DPC the external leaf, as this wastes the rod material. Surely the internal leaf is sufficient? The externals can dry from wind and good drainage? Am I missing something? maybe they drill almost through both leafs as they cannot do the job from the inside?

@andriuxandriux4818 8 месяцев назад

What if the inside wall was block and the mirror line did not match ...will the rods still create barrier on inside wall? What if block was used for both walls ...can I drill I to old dpc..insert rods and create new barrier or next mortor line above old dpc...which would seem pointless to stop damp

@jamespaterson9801 Год назад

Hi Roger, a bit off tge subject, but what do you know about fitting trickle vents to existing upv double glazing? Any tips?

@SkillBuilder Год назад

Yes it is possible but you have to work out where they can go. The best thing is to buy one and play around to make sure you know where to drill so you cover the holes. A multi tool with a plastic cutting blade is very useful for this job. Drill a hole at either end and join up the dots with the cutter.

@jamespaterson9801 Год назад

@@SkillBuilder Thanks again Roger, brilliant advice as always. Super star you are.

@andriuxandriux4818 8 месяцев назад

Can't find any info as to inserting these into block at dpc level

@frankellymusic Год назад

Can Dry Rods only be used on brick walls. My walls stone. Would they still work?

@barcusful Месяц назад

we have rising damp. Had it for 15 years and now really want it sorted. The floor is concrete and that is damp and we can see mould forming on the carpet tiles. Is there anything which can be done (a treatment) for the floor? Then paint the brick work outside to stop penetrating damp...? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thank you

@danmorrison1691 Год назад

Do these work on granite walls ie a French property thanks in advance

@montyloads 4 месяца назад

Im getting a little bit of that salt in a upstairs toilet room in 2 or 3 locations around the top and side of a window... its not much and not large amounts, maybe 3-5 inches max.... what could this be? Im guessing it cant be rising damp as it would effect the downatairs also? Any ideas?

@brookesenfrance3852 5 месяцев назад

What membrane should be put in the floor to control rising damp

@williamholden7573 2 месяца назад

Are these inserted above the damp course.

@knowitall3503 9 месяцев назад

Clear cavities to ground level are key. Especially in the corners. The drive to "save the planet" by turning your house into a fluff filled hamster house will have a negative impact on your house. Like the pipe over the drill bit tip. I'd leave the drill holes to vent.

@GlennPierce Год назад

Can you do a video on the digging of a French drain mentioned in thus ?

@awilderireland Год назад

Loads of vids on French drains on RU-vid. Although some say you shouldn't put one right against the house. Fecked if I know. Like so many things building related there's lots of conflicting info. Sorry if I've made matters worse! But the RU-vid vids would at least give you an idea.

@johnburns2940 Год назад

Ok, I misunderstood. Roger's explanation @5:45 to 6:10, is worth listening to a second time. Thanks lads!

@djpaulsid Месяц назад

Do these work on concrete walls?

@julias-shed Год назад

I’ve had good results with these on a 200 year old property recommended!

@mrai9199 19 дней назад

What's the update, did it do the job?

@raymondnawarauckasgraham9112 6 месяцев назад

Excellent Viedo Rodger, I recently purchased a Dry Rod kit to tackle rausing damp in my 175 year old sandstone home. Great to see a job start to finish done buy a professional. I now feel more confident in tackling this job myself. Thanks, I love your content. Reg

@timetogopsycho4502 10 месяцев назад

Hi, I've been looking at these dryrods they seem amazing. I'm just about to repoint my house and I was wondering if I could do two jobs at the same time repoint and do the damp proofing together, as in I've taken out the old cement and before do the new stuff could I put these dryrods in and cement/repoint around them? If that makes sense, I'm no builder, I believe I do the damp proofing above my air bricks IE two bricks above the ground? I like to give DIY ago because you get a good feeling from it.

@SkillBuilder 10 месяцев назад

Yes, absolutely that it the perfect time to do it. Don't repoint your house with too strong a mix. I use 1 cement, 1 hydrated lime and 6 parts plastering sand. Push the rod into the hole so it is not protruding and point straight over it

@timetogopsycho4502 10 месяцев назад

@@SkillBuilder thank you so much for your reply I really appreciate it very much, I just used that ready mixed were you just add water simple to store and I get the same mix all the time. My house is a solid brick wall that doesn't have a cavity wall. Would I need to cut the dryrods down a bit would you know? Many thanks James 👍🏻

@biomorphic 9 месяцев назад

I bought this product, but for me it is going to be a bit more complicated because the walls are 70 cm. I had to buy a lot of these rods. I hope they work. In addition I bought special hydraulic lime and a special paint.

@jannenreuben7398 Год назад

By "decorating" the outside wall with what looks like modern plastic paint all you've done is seal in any moisture in the wall. It's like putting on a plastic mac immediately after a shower. The bitumen on the brick plinth will have the same effect. The concrete floor will likely just push more moisture into the walls which now can't escape because of the coatings and those damp sticks you've just fitted (if they work at all). This house looks like it has had everything done that you should never do to an old house. I bet someone has done the pointing in OPC as well.

@gilespanton9354 Год назад

Great vid showing your techniques but Cement is one of the main reasons those old buildings suffer from damp, using lime based mortor is so essential to maintain breathability throughout an old house

@benedictearlson9044 Год назад

You can avoid that by only painting the walls when they are fully dry, after months of hot dry weather, difficult that in the UK. Masonry waterproofing liquid rather than bitumen paint is the thing to use, it's breathable and rain washes off the wall meaning the walls above the DPC will be much drier and the house warmer. Or try breathable masonry paint.

@jannenreuben7398 Год назад

@@benedictearlson9044 Waterproofing liquid is the worst thing to use on old porous bricks because, like plastic paint, it only seals moisture IN. Remember that water exists as a vapour as well as a liquid and if that vapour condenses in a cold wall (i.e one below the dew point) then those coatings will only stop it evaporating. That's when you start getting damp pushed through internally. If the water freezes it'll spall the outer brick face. The only paint you should ever use on old brick is limewash. The trick to treating damp in an old property is to accept that the fabric probably will get damp and doing your best to help that moisture evaporate with ventilation and appropriate materials.

@jannenreuben7398 Год назад

@@gilespanton9354 Absolutely, where I live there are soft sandstone buildings literally dissolving away through the use of cement.

@springy2670 Год назад

Great comment, it amazes me how many mistakes people make when it comes to damp.

@charliewhite6369 Год назад

When you get time would it be possible to explain how the floor could spread the damp up the wall , and correct floor insulation. Thanks 😊

@SkillBuilder Год назад

Will do

@garychadfield552 Год назад

It might have been a timber floor that rotted out & replaced by pouring a concrete floor that doesn't allow the damp to evaporate before it reaches floor level, I dobt that it would have been a flagstone floor in a house that was built with cavity walls, I certainly agree that damp, low down on a cavity wall is likely to be debris in the cavity.

@charliewhite6369 Год назад

Thanks Gary

@towerdave4836 Год назад

OK for a cavity wall but what about old stone walls?

@Shaggy-8392 Год назад

So what about the new silicon render used in external walls now? I thinking of getting that done to my new ground floor extension and the rest of my 1930's semi detached. Will that cause any damp issues. I don't have any so far?

@SkillBuilder Год назад

Silicone render is fine and it should not cause any problems. Just be aware that the scratched finish attracts dirt and algae. Traditional smooth render stays cleaner for longer and it easy to paint.

@fafunvideography Год назад

...that's hard core right there, tasting the salting, which i believe is the same as what we call "efflorescence" in the USA. i'm here seeking answers, to seal or not to seal the concrete block foundation in my 1950s home, seal from the outside, or seal from the inside? then, what to seal it with? i've watched lots of videos, read lots of comments. mixed answers about this.

@zlatkolovrencic5506 Год назад

hi i have a rising damp on the concrete wall in basement, 2-3 cm from the floor.can I use dryrode to fix that ? thanks

@SkillBuilder Год назад

No it is not the right product You need a cementious tanking slurry. Safeguard Europe has plenty of advice on cellars www.safeguardeurope.com/applications/basements