I found the article in F&C recently. Love the design and attempting to use this as the bones for my new bench. Thanks for the effort you put in David. your passion and dedication to perfection inspires me to do better.
Definitely going to have to make one of these when I get a bigger space, I'll end up with the best of both worlds then. Cracking videos as usual David, well worth the wait !!!
Maybe you could do a video showing the Scandinavian bench in detail. It would be nice for a couple of reasons. First of all it would be really interesting to understand how all the various bits and bobs are integrated into it and how they work together and individually. Second, seeing it in detail would inspire someone (me lol) to replicate it in a build of their own. Thank you for the video. Cheers mate and happy trails
I particularly admire the way you modified the traditional fifth leg. It looks graceful for such a large timber. I like the unobstructed foot space. Thanks for your thoughts on the inset tail vise, too. Interesting to compare the Veritas and H.N.T. Gordon versions.
I've found it's best to laminate one board to another, rather than try to glue them all up at once. It's slower but you get far cleaner gap free joints. All the best, David.
I'm waiting on my wood threading kit to start building this bench. I'm building a bench top version with maple and walnut without the tool tray. I wish I had the space for a full size bench but I can't wait to finally have a good bench to use
Will do when I can get round to it. Currently nursing a broken thumb back to working order but will be ordering the wood as soon as I'm back to ten digits.
Great bench David. Did you say the legs and stretchers are 4 inches square? Out of interest, what size tenons do you use to join them together? Cheers.
I must confess I had to watch this twice because I was simply gob-smacked by that beautiful book-matched cabinet back there, and I missed about half of what you were saying. Excellent work, sir!
Hi David, as a starting but elderly woodworker I think I must had read about every design of workbench and your variant of a Scandinavian workbench is the one that makes most sense to me. I will be making the base from kiln dried Douglas fir and I would like to know if you think it would also be a suitable wood for the top. One day I might change it for a hardwood top but I need to build a basic bench before I improve it. My other question is about the finish, I notice that you paint your base rather than use an oiled finish, what sort of paint do you use and would you say it is better than linseed oil or is it just a personal choice. It is nice to see unpretentious common sense from the UK.
Hi David. Although very much an amateur I am keen to build a half decent workbench. I really like your version you made. Is the top made out of beech? (You mentioned the legs were pine). I have one of your dovetail guides that I'm itching to use! Many thanks
Hi Keith, yes the top is 4" thick beech, achieved by laminating up 2" boards. The underframe is 4" square pine from a timber merchant, best to buy this 3 months in advance to let it settle. I'd like to see some pictures when you are done. All the best, David.
I really like this version of a bench, and you did a superb job. I have two questions: I find conflicting info on determine a proper bench height. The video by Jim Tolpin is helpful, but so many videos show conflicting information on proper height, so I'd appreciate your take on the matter. My second question is regarding the cover plate over your vice. I would have thought that the plate itself might expand and contract across its grain, making the fit different at various seasons. Is that not the case because of its relatively small size? I plan to redo a bench this fall, as my first one built nearly 20 years ago was meant to accommodate more power tool use and panels as material. I've evolved to more hand tool use and need perhaps a lower bench and one in which the dog holes are closer to the front edge. Thanks much for the inspiration and insight. I learn a great deal from your video work. Steve
ottarvendel thank you, and how tall are you? I've seen so many formulae that are completely different. At 6'6", everything from 32-38" has been suggested. I'm leaning towards a taller bench.
Steve Rochon having only just come across your response in relation to Bench heights, I too find myself considering that question for my new bench. I note your response is 3 years old Now. Did you ever get around to building your bench? In addition, at 6'6" you are taller than the average bear! although, your height alone does not always determine the bench height, as I found out several years ago when being fitted for golf clubs. I am 6'3" but have a long back with unproportionally short arms and legs, which means my hands are further from the ground than for an individual with arms/legs/ back in proportion. Therefore, I prefer a slightly taller bench, so I don't have to stoop or bend, which is a real back saver if working at the bench all day. I established (through my golf club fitting) my hands hang 1.5" further from the ground than that of an individual fitted for the standard golf club. What I have done for other shop benches is to stand upright with my fists clenched loosely and hanging by my side. The distance from the base of my clenched fist to the floor is the approximate height. Required for the bench top. Personally I may add 1/2. - 3/4" to that height as I do not like to stoop as I have a tendency to do so naturally. Anyways, should the final height not be ideal once built then it's not the end day of the world to increase or shorten the height marginally provided you factor that into the build at the design stage. Hope things worked out well for you. Regards, David.
Cool stuff, you want to google the word Hyvelbänk (Swedish) or Høvelbenk (Norwegian) which translates to "jointers bench", or poissibly "planing bench". There are numerous versions and traditions in Scandinavia and there are several small scale manufacturers available, Målilla Hyvelbänkar, Sjöbergs. Other European manufacturers have also adopted the design, Holzmann has their own for example which is pretty much identical to the first one you show.
I'm the lucky sod that bought David's lovely Roubo, it's a stunning piece and I love having it to use and abuse, it's like an anvil, so heavy and solid !!!
You asked the question I was about to ask, and was answered. I built a Roubo a few years ago after watching David. I'm thinking of updating, but will stick with a Roubo. I will consider the HT Gordon
Klaus, the link is interesting, but based upon the primary observation that the deep dovetails and wooden vices are not part of this design, then it is hardly a traditional bench and is more akin to the one being proposed in this very informative video.
I did an article for Furniture and Cabinet Making magazine with plans, if you contact Derek Jones the editor he will send you a copy. All the best, David.
Very pleased to own it. I work wood in Estonia in the summer so it's going almost back home to my workshop. Thanks for your videos they are inspiring and help fuel my love of my hobby.
No offence, it’s beautifully made but I could never get used to a shoulder vice and I don’t like tail vices. I’d rather use a Nicholson bench. It’s a good height though. Yours is marginally better.
Hi Lialalou, I've checked on their website and I can't find this style of bench being advertised. It would be good if they were still available. All the best, David.
Thank you, I can see it in the schools section with a tail vice and it mentions a shoulder vice can be fitted but I can only see a front vice being offered as an option, not a shoulder vice. All the best, David.
. I dont get that "wGon vise"? teeny little knob you have to use your finger tips to open and close it....it takes so long to open it and close it. and the short little handle on the face vise. Ive no idea why Lake Erie tools did that. When you xompare the two workbenches here in real world conditions...id have to lean on Leif's bench for real world use.
after using Leif's benches at school for long peiods of time...to suddenly not have that tail vise is unthinkable. Its the best though out bench ive seen yet. full size, length is designed into the vises..unlike most all others. Even Ulmia's benches have the space robbing front vise. Thank the gods that you can actually buy one of these sweet Swedish benches, still today from Leif, at Malilla !
@@missionron I did build one but I made the tail vise longer and moved the leg right, perhaps the first guy in 300 yrs to do so. It stops the overhang wobble you can get. It also evens out the wear on the tail dogs as more get used. The tail vise opening is just over 13" so when needed you make the bench over a foot longer. The long tail is less prone to droop also. Can't seem to post a pic here but 'long tail Danish workbench' might find it.
