The transmission "kickdown" (this name is improper, it is actually a throttle valve or TV cable" controls pump output pressure, which in turn controls the shift points. The moral is, if you leave the kick down unhooked, your transmission pump will put out minimal pressure which is OK when idling around, but if you go to a higher power situation like this (higher throttle setting) your transmission will not have sufficient holding pressure applied to the clutches and bands, and the transmission will burn up the internals. If you are going to remove the TV cable you will need to permanently tie the TV lever forward (simulating a higher throttle setting) so that there is sufficient hydraulic pressure to ensure the clutches and bands have enough holding clamp up force. Also, you need to ensure that the converter (or converter eliminator) is ALL THE WAY engaged. This is tricky because the pump inner gerotor drops when you remove the converter, and you usually have to spin the converter several times before it picks up and engages the inner gerotor. If you do not have it slid all the way in to the transmission, and use the engine to transmission bolts to force it in you will fracture the drive lugs off of the pump gerotor, and you will be pulling the transmission again. After the engine and transmission are bolted together you should have to pull the converter (eliminator) forward to meet the flexplate (flywheel) and then install the bolts.
Came here to say the same thing, that cable is important even inf your just locking in 1st gear, youll burn out any clutches/bands in the gearbox once it gets under load. Its trivial for a man of your ability to just connect the cable up. so connect it up :)
l was waiting for someone else to tell him . when he cut the cable i shouted O NO . l was trying to think of away to explain it to him i checked the comments and you did a better job . l wouldn't want to be around went he reads what he did . great job explaining it . thanks
On some transmissions the TV cable does double duty. It controls the pump pressure and the kickdown. If it is always in 1st/low, kick down does not matter. Is the pump pressure is to low clutches will slip a d wear quickly.
Great episode Doug and crew. Hope that bolt you lost down in the bottom doesn't become one of the rattles you used to get back in some of the new cars of the early 80's. Had one and could never figure out where it was coming from. finally let it go with my wife in the divorce. Thank you for the inspiration Doug and thank you to the crew that came by to help. All are amazing folks.
My dad knew a guy who worked in an auto plant. He said it was common knowledge that "some" people when having a bad day, would toss a bolt/nut into a vehicles void space before welding. One of our neighbors bought such a car and was going insane trying to find the rattle. Dad sent the man to the local garage who drilled holes and sprayed undercoat into the void spaces till the rattle got fixed.
Doug, I am exceptionally happy you purchased a Whaly Boat. Not in a million years did I imagine that happening. I think you will love it. Now you just need a diesel outboard motor for it!!!!
We used that same paste when we pulled salt water for frack tanks. Got to pull the water and no the condensate. Excited you got her on the water. Safe travels!
Do yourself a favor so as to eliminate heartbreak later. Go to a truck supply house or maybe a fuels distributor and get a 5 gallon pail of diesel/jet algicide. One trade name is Prist. Algi grows fast in a nice warm water in fuel tanks. Been there done this.
I would start getting upset when theres nothing left to work on! Not that i wish for my things to break but its the fun of building and fixing or upgrading that toots my whistle! Boat is really coming into its dream Doug! Love it!
A good friend built a 60 foot by 27 foot pontoon house boat mounted a Burmese teak railway carriage on it we travelled up and down lake Kariba in Africa lake is about 200 miles long. We did many maintenance trips and holidays on this vessel. Had two ford tractor engines with torque converters. In this hot climate the torque converters were big trouble always over heating. We simplified every thing possible to make it robust. It was a blessing fitting borg Warner velvet drive marine gearboxes with stainless cables to the helm for changing forward to reverse. Simple and no more headache’s. When some thing breaks in the middle of nowhere it’s great having simple fixable systems with basic parts on board.
From a retired engineer, you have a great show in the making, I would love to see more of your journey and human interaction. Remember, no one is like you and I totally get it, my wife’s complaints about me!
My Dad worked at a large terminal on the Colonial Pipeline. He would climb to the top of the huge tanks and check for water with that stuff on a looong telescoping stick.
For the water in the tanks. if there is any venting then dry tanks will condensate and collect water, Airplane owners follow the rule to top off the tanks so there is little air space to condensate. Those black storage bins with the yellow tops you have, I keep one in my car and found everything soaking wet in it from the condensation on the lid. So it wasn't rain water. Those tanks sat empty in your boat for years, condensating from the changing temperature.
Hi I have been watching the channel since the first build and have enjoyed all aspects, populated by the highs and lows. This issue you have with the transmission I do not understand. I owned a Falmouth Pilot 9 ton sailing yacht and...... I hear you say. Well it had a variable pitch prop. Ahh ! I now hear you say. The point is with a prop of this type, a direct drive works with constant revs whilst docking. Feathering the prop holds the craft steady and simple adjustment of the pitch, causes the craft to move forward or astern. Cruising works being able to balance sea conditions with revs and fuel consumption. Keep going Chris
Yeah that’s a horrible idea. You don’t learn that way. You end up doing all kinds of things people imagine. For example I’ve learned at 90% of that shit is wrong. And 100% of it is exaggerated.
My dad had once great idea to find leaks. This might be helpful for you to find your's. Put some parfume to the suspected areas ( probably on deck & wash it with some water) and the day later you walk the inside and sniff around.
I love to read all about boating repairs, I’m working on a Ford leehman as it’s over heating, everything has been checked, just about to strip down the heat exchange to make sure no weed in the system..
I'm sure you already know but there are diesel fuel additives that will remove any residual water from your fuel tanks/system. Great video and best of luck.
There are people that go to the extreme of putting air dryers on the vent lines but I think it’s a waste of time. A good filter system and paying attention is plenty. We sure as hell didn’t get 40 gallons of water from condensation.
40gals is alot 3'4 of an inch was all I had to go by. Is the rain water catch getting into the transfer station? Or main fill maybe?I remember something like this in the fuel transfer setup video, like "we will have to see."... Hope this helps, and as always thanks for the video.
I'm no auto mechanic but I do know that a common mistake it not lining up the tangs on the pump with the notches on the output shaft of the torque converter. Many a transmission swaps have gone to sh** over that simple mistake. The measurement from the torque converter to the bell housing for just about any transmission in the world are out there and it's worth a Google search if you are unsure of your setup. I think the torque converter eliminateor was a good idea but we will have to wait and see.
Some of the water in your fuel is probably due to condensation from the air in the tanks. Adding a little Methanol every now and then might solve some of your woes
We used a similar Gasolia product for tanks, trucks and fuel tankers in the Army back in the 90s. But the product we used also could tell if there was diesel scum in the diesel. Can't say what it was, wish I knew.
Hi I re-read this and realized that the diesel scum to us meant the algae that will grow in the tank and sometimes float on the surface. Every vehicle was topped off for diesel 24/7 and sometimes sat for months and the scum would grow. To much algae would clog the filters and stall the engines and clog up the fuel lines after two or three days of active use; and always at the most inconvenient time and location. We checked monthly as part of preventative maintenance.
Can you use some ethanol mixed with the diesel fuel to emulsify the remaining water? The whole E10 thing in fuel these days is why we don't have to worry about water in our cars, but I'm not sure if it works the same way with diesel.
My project right now is doing some scrapping and bringing in enough to get my vehicle registration. Just what in the exact hell does registration really do anyhow? Heck with it. Soon enough here I'm going to cast a brass bell.
From all the comments on how you can fry the truck transmission in a boat application a marine transmission might have been a wise investment . But not my money and if you can reliably make this work so much the better!
my concern is coming out of gear, stern drives have a temp grounding switch to stumble the other ignition long enough to reduce torq on prop to allow disengagement but the trans is hydraulic so should be Ok I hope good luck
11:42 you should consider getting or building a Hydrolysis fuel generator and destille to seperate light gas and gasoline from diesel and light oils - the thingy where you can make fuel out of floating plastics - burn some plastic or use exhaust heat to heat a reaction vessel with plastic waste- without oxygen to burn the plastic bonds fall appart into shorter hydrocarbons- diesel gasoline and lighter gasses- these gasses can be destilled into the different fuels with seawater cooling circulation - if you burn plastic to react other plastic you can install a catalyst ceramic comb like used as replacements for wood gasifying stoves to get as clean of a reactor stove exhaust as possible, no sut and no heavy smoke or CMX/NDX - save fuel money and the ocean from plastics pollution - that way you can remove water from diesel - also a fuel filtering centrifuge - so you can filter particles from motor oil and other waste oil to run it as fuel and it seperates out all water, you will need it to seperate the tar and clay dust like stuff out of ship bunker oil if you ever have to run on that - also you should add a heating coil - like from a hot water boiler to your daytank - bunker oil like from ships needs preheating to be thin enough to run in normal engines - and it needs to be centrifuge filtered to prevent abrasion in the injection pump or clogs in the injector nozzles
Waste oil is ok as fuel if properly cleaned but bunker fuel would be way to thick for that engine even when heated.. i have a generator (cs lister clone indirect injected) that runs my machine shop and i had to up the injector crack pressure significantly to atomize waste oil properly but i run 100% waste oil in that engine, most people mix waste oil with diesel or petrol to thin it out and make it so the engine starts easier when cold.. my generator was almost impossible to start when running oil by hand cranking so i had to make an adapter to mount a car flywheel and starter motor to spin it really fast and give it a shot of degreaser as a starting fliud to get it running, hopefully I won't need to spray degreaser in it when i get around to fitting a glow plug.. indirect injected diesels handle waste oil better than direct injected.. I've noticed a difference in how the engine runs on thicker oils, the thicker the oil the harder it is to start and i get more soot on the injector too along with more smoke on start up
sudden"/emergency shifting be carefull the shock to the transmision will stress it to the limit look into what is called clutchflite show u a idea of the posible stress loads
Great that progress still going on! That's going to be a long seatrial before you get to the Gulf of Mexico. Will SV Seeker have to undergo a Coast Gaurd inspection?
Still think Richard at Precision transmission youtube channel/texas shop , could build you a trans to do exactly what u need. Not with billet parts(unless needed) but with his knowledge of how they work. He can modify them to do anything you need.
If you do find the point of water ingress then fill the void with inert gas. I’ve welded on plenty of diesel tanks via inert gas filling the void prior to welding. I’ve never blown up.
Diesel tanks can be welded when full and i mean chocks full of fuel safely.. welding over the leak can have a small fire on the outside of the tank but a wet rag takes care of that
Yes, the other way to do that is make sure that it has so much diesel vapor in it that it is way over the combustion range. We did that in the skeg. This time I think it’s just a seal around the hatch.
@@SVSeeker that sounds like something that will work right up until that one time when it doesn't.. I've been a welder and machinist for over 30 years and I've never seen any professional who would use that method, everyone i know has always done them when full of fuel because they can't go bang without air.. even air compressor tanks have exploded when people have tried to patch them and air compressor oil has a much higher flash point than diesel.. if you want to take the risk, that's up to you but i wouldn't recommend that method
@@markshort9098 Glad I could teach you something new. Go research the combustion mixture requirements for diesel or just keep being afraid of the dark. That works too. : )
@@SVSeeker have a look at how many have been killed by welding diesel tanks that were empty or partially filled, there's a whole heap of them online.. as i said, it'll work right up until that one time when it doesn't.. it's not a matter of being scared, it's a matter of common sense
I commented that cable was a kick down cable for going down a gear when you put your foot down on the gas on the video when you were stumped about what it was but nobody listens to me 😢 Good job, can't wait to see the SV seeker stretch its legs in the high seas. Poke your eye out, cut your leg off and get a stump and get a parrot Doug, it will suit you.
Hi Doug, would adding a ball valve to the day tank drain be useful since you'll likely need to test quite a lot until that water source gets found ? Perhaps a water separator below day tank to show when it needs cleaning or a clear plastic hose loop so water would be more visible ?
I started my RU-vid channel fifteen years ago today. I can't take a picture of that, maybe a screenshot of the main page, but it would be easier for you to chase my name. There's just under one thousand original sound scores with video, you might even find a few of my prototype blueprints if you dig long enough. I work on this between building gas stations and auditoriums. yes it's loud and angry most often, perfect for those screw up moments, but there are some real gems in there. if you find anything interesting or would like to use any of it in your productions, go ahead. It would cost you nothing and keep the copy write hounds off the trail.
i thought i heard you say you will only use first gear in the tranny . i dont know if that tranny is any different from other automatic tyranny's but i do know if you run first gear at high rpms it will fail as the planetary will be spinning to fast .
has the prop shaft and system been tested spinnin as fast as SECOND GEAR would make??? or has it not been tested for balance at those rpm's??? would puttin it in D !!!! GOGOGO MODE make her go up on PLANE??!?!?!?!?!?!?! LOL HAHAHAHAHA oh my!!! waitin for the TRY LLOOLL
I don’t remember what you made or what we changed. Everything in life is transient. The most permanence we obtain is being apart of the force of transmission that decreases the chaos.
Doug Just a thought ARE you using a transmission cooler if not bad news you need to! I worked for Transmission shop and heat will kill any transmission!!!!
we want more videos ! i wonder what you did the past week, you are certainly did not fix the bus transmission for a whole week ? Thank you for what you do.
We do. First gear is actually 1-2-3-4. But you do not want it to shift gears. So if we are going to push it, we shift all the way forward which is first gear only.
