Very clear and logical guide; well done. I particularly like the tip to use two spirit levels (on the rifle and the scope) to get the cross hairs perfect.
Way better explanation then on Sako's site, I just purchased yesterday a Sako 85 Hunter Stainless and will be mounting my Swarovski optik with Sako's Optilock myself thanks for the great video 👍
Excellent video! I just ordered a set of Sako rings and mounts for my Sako 85 Bavarian Carbine .308 Win and this video will be a great help. Thank you!
Nice video. But the thing I don’t like about this levelling technique is that you’re assuming the reticle inside the scope is level to the turret cap. Better to level the reticle itself to a vertical line by looking through it.
Why is it important to have the front base far back like you did? I just mounted a Swarovski with these on a Sako 85. I ran out of elevation clicks. Any idea why that would be? I used the correct rings per Sako
TBH I ended up torque with base to rail (weaver base) with 63 in/lb. At first i did same as base to rings which is 45 in/lb but later found out specs of that it should be 80 in/lb. I have a tourque wrench with scale up to 50 in/lb which i turned over the scale 1 more rev of micro adjustment and stoped around 63 in/lb progressively tightened base screw up to that value. 63 in/lb felt so tight i wasnt sure i should go any further with torque.
I installed Warne Maxima rings directly on the receiver dovetail in a Tikka T3x...no bases needed since the ring has the recoil pin that fits in the Optiloc hole in the receiver.
The Optilock two piece mounts that I just bought say to drive the front mount all the way forward with a plastic hammer, until they won't slide any farther. I wonder is this something that has changed since this video was made?
@@TheFlyingPlectrum This is correct. The front mount must be slid forward until it is tight. Otherwise there is too much side to side movement. If you don't believe me just try it ... set the mount flush to the rear as shown and wiggle it back and forth. Loose right? Moving it forward eliminates that play. If you keep it there the base screw will tighten against the right side of the dovetail, pulling the mount against it (to the right). Meaning that is where the scope will ultimately point. I tried and tried to follow this and others that say the same and my shooting so far left I didn't have windage enough to zero it. (Zeiss 1" HD-5) Shove it forward ... you'll thank me.
@@outdoorquesttv9946 well of course it makes it tighter … that’s the definition of a “dovetail “. But you’re right, it does move it to one side because the tension screw is on the right. Therefore, logically, when you tighten the screw to take up the slack the center of the mount moves to the right, moving the scope to the right. If you have the windage to compensate it doesn’t really matter. But my 1” Zeiss HD5 did not so I have to make sure I’m all the way forward. BTW, you can see this easily if you note that the dovetail is even … it does not cant either way. Then look at the bottom of the base … no cant anywhere. Only variable is the screw.
Hi, nice video. I find it very helpful. I just bought a set of rings and bases for a T3X. They aren’t cheap. My question is: does it matter which way the base/rings face? I ask this because I usually point my rings backwards to have my scope as far back as possible. Thanks
I had these rings and bases mounted on my sako 85 black bear with a vortex viper pst. I was never able to get a consistent grouping and eventually the magnification on the scope stopped working. I disassembled the scope from the rings and found two dents on the bottom of the scope where it was in contact with the lower rings. How was this possible if everything was torqued to spec?
You dont seem to mention that the top-caps require 'equal' gaps, either-side, between the top-cap, and the bottom base. This ensures equal torque and holding-pressure on the plastic-inner-spacer-ring and ultimately, the scope-tube. Cheers, Dave , NZ
Great video, 80 lbs is a lot huh, Can you tell me what model of Optilock rings you used and the height of them and the outer diameter of your objective scope end. Have a 30mm tube and 58 mm objective end on my scope and mounting on a Sako L 579 Forester👍👍👍👍
I have the Sako 85 Finnlight. Just bought it. But I'm a rookie so a question...the Optilock rings & bases are for the Zeiss scope only or a scope of its dimensions or ?
What is the part number on those bases. Looks like they make a few different ones. Theres a short action, A long action and an extended action. I have the same rifle. Great video. Thank You
Just to get a bit of perspective as to what I need, I was wondering what size your scope is. You said you were using the "Low" rings, but you didn't mention what the bell diameter of the scope is. I like to keep my scopes close to the barrel. I will be using a 3-9x40 scope, but I don't know what rings will give me the approximate height you have there. Thanks.
Hi, would you suggest what exactly optilock bas and rings i need for Sako 85M Bavarian with Vortex scope diamondback 3.5x10x50 1'' tube, id appreciate your help since I couldn't figure out Sako optilock chart.
I actually translated the manual to english the small screws for tightening the rings around scope tubes is 15 in lbs, the lower ring to base of optilock is actually 44 inch lbs and the base to the rifle is actually 80 inch lbs (how you get that much torque from a hand turn wrench is another question) I think there is some minor confusion between hd and standard model rings and bases and the finnish only manual. These are also max torque values, i can't see how 65 inch lbs of torque would not be enough to hold the bases on the rifle.
