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0:00 - Grinding
2:25 - Prepare the Mower
3:19 - Square the Reel
3:55 - Zero-Contact Set
7:55 - Test and Repeat
11:30 - Back Lapping and Blade Facing
Before setting the reel, have it professionally ground.
For a rebuild, we typically grind both the reel and bottom blade (your reel can be sharpened without removing it from the machine but this option will typically cost more and your entire mower needs to be sent out).
Paint the reel prior to grinding. Paint or powder coat on the cutting edges of the reel will grind off--normally without chipping (your sharpening service may object to grinding off your excess paint).
Bottom blades are cheap and should be replaced if necessary. A new bottom blade will need to be ground. Your sharpening service can help remove the bottom blade to replace it but penetrating oil, an impact driver, punch, or heat will help if you want to try it yourself.
The bottom blade is ground in place on the soleplate to achieve a straight edge. Once mounted, the bottom blade conforms to the shape of the soleplate, which may or may not be perfectly flat.
We set our reel so it doesn't contact the bottom blade at all and the approach shown involves five steps:
Step 1: Have a professional grind your reel and bed knife
See above.
Step 2: Prepare your mower
Loosen the nuts securing the forward pivot bolt on each side of the machine. Loosen the inverted nuts locking each adjuster screw in place but don't back them off too far.
Tip: Find a long screwdriver with a wide, thick blade that fits your adjuster screws to avoid damaging the slots. Our driver also has a rubber coating along the shaft, which avoids damage to the paintwork.
Step 3: Align the reel to the bottom blade
Drop the reel down on each side so it rests on the bottom blade. The purpose of this step is to start with the reel square to the bottom blade.
Step 4: Set the reel
Raise the reel evenly on each side in small increments until no ticking or shearing noises can be heard.
Step 5: Test and repeat
Tip the machine back to access the underside. Avoid tipping it back beyond 45 degrees if you have a motor installed (some engine designs can be tipped without problem).
Our goal is zero (or very little) contact between reel and bottom blade. We don't need to cut paper to achieve a clean cut on the grass. Use a thin piece of paper to confirm the set. The objective is to ensure the reel is set evenly across the entire length of all blades and the blades should either cut consistently at every test site or, as in our case, fold over.
Examine the cut end of some of your grass clippings to confirm the set using this approach and you should see a clean, angled cut with no tearing.
To finish, tighten the nuts on each adjuster screw and then both nuts on the bearing housing pivot bolts. Tightening these nuts may alter your set so adjust if necessary.
🎬 Watch all the rebuild videos here
• Scott Bonnar 45 Rebuild
🎬 Watch all the teardown videos here
• Scott Bonnar 45 Teardown
🎬 Check out the SB 45 walkthrough videos if you're new to cylinder mowers and Scott Bonnars
• Scott Bonnar 45 Walkth...
⚠️ Your safety is your responsibility. Don't forget to disconnect your spark plug before starting work on your machine and always read and follow the instructions/labels on your equipment, tools and chemicals. ⚠️
#ScottBonnar #Reel #Setting
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Additional Resources
🌐 Scott Bonnar Restorations FB Group
/ 1801521490103765
🌐 Scott Bonnar - Buy, Sell, Swap Australia FB marketplace
/ 1207116562722291
🌐 Scott Bonnar Addicts FB Group
/ 791569104336316
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About me and this channel: I'm Michael, a homeowner and aspiring lawn addict. I make these videos to share as much as I can, as best I can, from my recent experience rebuilding two Scott Bonnar 45 mowers. Although I'm a passionate wood worker and ex-IT guy, I have zero mechanical training. I'm no expert on these subjects but I learn by sharing and it encourages me to grow a better lawn and build a better mower if I know you're watching!
© 2020 Michael Hanes. All rights reserved.
30 июл 2024
