Scraping a Tapered Gib to a Lathe Cross Slide: Monarch Lathe Restoration - Part 22 

When oil is magnify it resembles tiny ball bearing. An so, the oil will find it way into the scrape marks, and lubricate the gib in the cross slide.

Thanks for the explanation about scraped vs ground surfaces!

I have learned a lot watching your videos thanks for sharing

Thanks Keith!

KIETH you forgot to tell everyone I showed you how to do that,. Amazing workmanship that I showed you how to scrape and straighten the gib,

Amazing workmanship! I learned more in 30 mins than in the last 10 years about scraping/alignment etc. Thank you! Eric

Accurate? Hell yes! That lathe is going to make some beautiful music Keith!

Many years ago I was taught how to scrape ways. I was taught to hand scrape all surfaces using masters for tight places like this. Large areas also had masters. I was taught to use an orange rubbing paste to find the high spots. I was also taught to make the scraping tools. I was just a young electrical engineer

Excellent running description of what you were doing and why, Keith. Nice results, too! Richard King will be proud of you...

Wow good to know on keeping a slightly rough surface. I thought a perfectly smooth surface would be much better. I’m glad I watched this!

Great stuff Keith! Thanks

Congrats to the this step in the restoration!

Nice job! Thanks for the video.

Good video. Several related topics covered in short order.

Amazing how nice work you do. So fun to fallow this work. I learned a lot.

I had my Brown and Sharpe screw machine scraped in again after 30 years. What an improvement, money well spent.

Keith, Awesome video thanks for sharing.!.!.!.

Great video. I know you are a busy guy so i appreciate it when you are able to get out another post and you do a nice job presenting and informing us. 😊

Great video Keith. Good to see all that hard work paying off. Cheers from the UK

Excellent video/discussion......looking forward to chips!

Great video.

Great work, hoping we'll eventually manage to get our lathe up to spec in the same way. Learning a lot from you in the meantime!

Your in the home stretch Keith! Can't wait to see the first chips fly!

Keith nice work.

Enjoyed Keith! ATB, Robin

Its been a fun project Keith, I have learned alot watching you on this one.

Very nice, the accuracy of this lathe is gonna be top notch.

Wonderful work, the lathe is ever closer to the final restoration and therefore be in operation, and I can not wait for the restoration of the other two monarch lathes. Congratulations great work, and as always very interesting thank you.

Thanks Keith for all of this. I will be a great guide for me when I tackle my Colchester Student this winter.

Nice job!

I enjoy the passion you and others like Adam Booth and Brian Bloc show when restoring your machinery.

Nice Job Keith! Steve

Hi Keith, Great video I've done a lot of grinding in Coventry factories UK,but it made me smile at 4.55 when you touched on it made you jump when it flashed on the end.

The demonstration you are giving is the next best thing to having experience, very clear very concise. This has been a very good series well worth my time watching twice. video quality is excellent I might add.

It will be great to see that lathe cutting some chips, I think I could hear the excitement in your voice.

I guess having something down to the "Nth precision level" will make fo a whole lot of fun down the line on future projects Keith...Kudos

Excellent!

That is going to be one great lathe when you finish.

You are certainly doing a really good job on that Monarch and your scrapping skills are coming in handy, she is looking really good. 2 ground surfaces sticky like Jo Blocks Gauge Blocks. Nice oils groves wondered how those got done when I come across them.

One major step closer!! You have to be tickled about it coming out still aligned. :-)

Hi Keith If you are going to make a new cross nut . You should look at making the nut longer if you can because it would last longer with more bearing material. I have done this and I use Aluminum Bronze for the nut . Good Luck

Again, this is a fascinating project. Looking forward to the 10EE

Good explanation why scraping is needed. It's all about matching the geometry and stick and slip. Static friction (as when things aren't moving) is always greater than when the parts slide along nicely. It's like compressing a spring, you build up force until the static friction can be overcome (stick) and then the parts suddenly move apart (slip) and it can be sometimes more than what you intended.

good content

Getting there Keith. Looks like new and possibly better than. Des

Scraping is identical to an Abbot bushing as to roughing the surface contact to allow oil to percolate between the surfaces.

Excellent video, very nice that the lathe is where it should be in regard to perpendicular, but it begs a question: What do you do, and how is perpendicular corrected, if the perfect situation is not the case, and the cross-slide is out of alignment ?

Look forward to seeing this lathe make chips

Ta. Have to do mine now.

loved the Video Keith but Have you thought of using your magnetic chuck to hold small parts like that while scraping

Keith, Thank you for the info on scraped surfaces. I'm about to try almost the same process. Only the Gib on my machine is installed in a Vertical Orientation. I've already been cautioned about the possibility of jamming the Gib. But I cannot find any info on how best to avoid a jammed Gib condition. Can you offer any advice on how not to jam the Gib while checking the Bluing process?

Are you thinking about that Tool and Cutter Grinder yet ? Acme threads...nice job.

Would the mag chuck on the grinder hold that gib firmly enough to scrap with part of the gib held by the clamp?

Hi Keith, is there a path from those oil grooves in the turcite to some oil fitting? If not how do you get oil in there? Nice work!

Wouldn't you want to put a flat surface in a chuck on your lathe head and run your indicator off of that seeing as how they work surface will be chucked up there? To make sure both are parallel to each other?

Just a quick question - do you think that the weight of the apron will have any effect on the cross slide alignment.

I don't know how Keith finds the time and energy to do as much as he does.

another great instructional video Keith i have just got my sticky hands on a Chinese mini lathe so am expecting to end up stripping it down and re building it I just hope my efforts are as accurate as yours

FYI Keith, your new video thumbnail pictures have a red line along the bottom when they show up to watch. This matches youtubes red line showing that i already watched a video . Might want to remove that art too not confuse viewers.

That is going to be a sweet lathe when your done. Do you even use the lodge and shiply at museum anymore? Got myself one of those mini mills cheap. Slightly used guy was cutting aluminum when a screw came out of circuit board and toasted board. Less than one hour of use. Packed in that slimy none grease stuff to prevent rust got to take it apart to clean everything. Reason for it? Cutting key ways on motor shafts. Got any good but reasonable advise for a vise four inch? The amazon ones all have reg metric thread screws instead of acme.

Hi, Keith. Awesome stuff. I was thinking don't you have to also blue your gib on your surface plate alternately because tapping the dovetail into your ways doesn't necessarily blue the 4 corners of the gib, i.e., the perimeter of the gib's surface is not blued when test fitting?

Keith, can you please make that single tooth acme internal threading tool ? I have no clue how to make an internal cutting tool so it would help me immensely. Thanks!

One think that I don't think you checked for was any curvature in the gib. When you ground it, the magnetic chuck would have pulled any curvature flat, so the result would have been accurately tapered but perhaps a bit curved. The printing you did during the scraping would have done the same thing: pressing the curvature flat. A curved gib will fit ok, but the pressure between the gib and the ways will be concentrated in one spot (or two, depending on the direction of the curve). This will produce increased resistance to movement and uneven gib wear. You could test for this by trying the pivot test on a surface plate, for both the front and back of the gib.

Great work Mr. Rucker! The smoother the surfaces, the more likely they are to wring together. Gotta have scraping. I have a compound gib problem myself. The one in my lathe looks like it was scraped with a roughing mill. LOL I am ordering a new gib, but it will have to be ground and scraped. It just never ends!! 'Til next time.

is adding the additional oil grooves an improvement to current practice?

Keith did your yard dry out. Thought you might have to bring the Ark out.

Getting closer to being able to use the lathe

YAY

Would have done this by hand used to put blue on with felt pad spent 50 years building machines mainly thread grinders

in relation to the question about ground on scraped...when the machine came from the factory, where both the surfaces scraped?

I'm assuming you want the gib to wear out before the ways but just in case I'm wrong... Why do you use cast iron as opposed to a harder material?

6:00 what that’s telling me is anything he’s gonna machine in Ga. will be within tolerance until that 90 year old man wants a new winding stem made for his pocket watch

The precision is awesome but I am curious (and I am not a machinist I just love this sort of stuff) how often do you machine things where this level of precision is truly needed?

At the end of video, when you check perpendicularity of slide, why you said that you want to the indicator to move?

and somewhere on here lies a happy blue sky sorry a little bob ross lol

Wouldn't a pair of adjustable cylindrical linear bearing blocks be better than the dove tail slide in terms of reliability and longevity, since linear bearings are a lot more affordable and readily available!?

How do you scrap and ensure flatness and straightness on something larger than your straight edge or surface plate? They've made some massive lathes and mills in the past, there's no way they had reference surfaces that large.

20:51 Did you just lay the cross feed screw on the ways?

This is the small monarch, right? there's still a big monarch to restore as well? (and a 10EE?)

Quite honestly, I have never seen a ground surface used when both are the same material, both the gib and slide are cast iron. You need the oil pockets and as you say to adjust the angle etc. for proper fit

can you use an angle grinder as a scraper?

Why does the cross slide not need to be machined so it is 'square or parrellel" with the chuck and spindle to tailstock axis?When you set the angle to "0" shouldnt it be at a 90 degreese to the spindle /tailstock asis? Wont the angle reading be off this way? You wont be makeing square 90 degree faceing cuts this way.Nice lathe by the way. Keep up the good work.

Can anyone comment on approximately how much 'slop' or variability the oil on the ways would produce? Seems like I remember Keith commenting on that years ago but I just cannot remember.

i wouldn't have the patience to do that :0)

Hmmm- clamping one end on a wood bench with other end up in air looks like a good way to warp that gib- why not put it on your magnetic table for the scraping.

Surprised you did not use a magchuck to hold the gib for scraping :) otherwise very instructional.

Sorry but I didn't understand the explanation of why you don't want the cross slide running 100% perpendicular?

Dude! That is not a brush! That is a sponge!

looks like you made it threw the flood, all most chip making time

Keith, you totally lost me with having a 5 thou run out in towards the headstock. When you do a facing isn't it supposed to completely flat and not have a dish to it? When your using a cutoff tool, then it is cutting on a taper, or am I not getting it?

How long does the gib last?

Keith I don’t intend to be critical, I’m not sure how you can accurately scrape the gib without a proper work holding method. The gib seemed to be springing up and down during your scraping process. Recently Dale Derry posted a video where he employs a surface grinder magnetic chuck for work holding while scraping. I’m not a scraping expert but the magnetic chuck scenario seems more plausible to me than clamping the gib unsupported on a wooden bench, especially after you went to the pains to surface grind the gib. It appears it turned out just fine though. As I said before, not being critical, just an observation.

NOT READY TO RUN :-( :-)

I still don't get the scrapping...if the wedge is tightened in place and there is no slop on the top piece and it still slides back and forth with no binding, why is scrapping necessary? It was a perfect fit and then you hack it all up by scrapping..? Seems like there is nothing precise about hacking willie nillie by hand on a flat combined angled surface...? That guys comments at the end are exactly making my point....so oiling is the reason I guess....

I don't get everyone's fetish for scraping everything

You don't have two dovetails on it. Both tapers equal one dovetail.

The read line in you thumbnail make me think I have already watched your video. You might be missing out on views.

@21:31 I see you Keith.

At the rate you're getting on with this job it will take you years to restore your 10EE.