Thank you Tim. Like I said in the video, I would not have done this if it was not for your prodding me on Facebook! I valued your help and comments too when my first attempt with the ultra-sticky photo labels failed. I'm glad I didn't wake you with my early-morning messages! :)
What a fantastic effect and so easy. No more ordering window frames. You could also color the frames with a marker any color before cutting out the holes.
It was a revelation when I found this technique, and I have used it so much. I would not advise colouring them BEFORE cutting, as you will end up with a white inner edge. I use watercolour paints AFTER cutting. This is brilliant as the paint can be very easily wiped off the glazing and just left on the frames. See an example here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-g0K-DQB5C70.html
I used a technique like this for a cab for a Right of Way tie crane in HO: I drew out the cab flat, put Tamiya tape on my acetate window stock, cut out where the metal framework would be, removed the tape-- leaving the tape over the "windows" then spray painted the acetate yellow. When dry, I removed the tape, folded the cab up and glued it to the crane body. The thickness of the paint simulated the thin metal framework that I couldn't achieve any other way! Cheers!
Oh wow - I happen to be working on a scratch build station and was not looking forward to the windows!!! NOW I AM :) Challenge accepted :) Thanks (You and Tim) for sharing :)
Nice result. I used this technique when I worked for architects making architectural models from bristol card, and still use it for PVC or metallic windows. I used the technique also to cut elements of styrene sheets to build wagons or coaches parts in OO and O scale. I simply draw the pieces with a CAD program like Qcad and print it on A4 label sheet before sticking it to the styrene. Once finished i removed it by soaking the label with alcohol and scraping with a plastic chisel to remove the parts not peeling away. To paint the frames, i used stabilo markers as the ink colors also the edges while not sticking on the acetate (cleaning with cotton bud lightly moistened with a mix water + alcohol).
This technique is a wonder as well as inexpensive. Over the last 10 to 15 years I have attempted it myself. HOWEVER, as you pointed out those of us with limited vision, or a less than steady hand, cutting the sticker paper can turn REALLY BAD really quick. I am now approaching 71 years old. And I, or anyone with like dexterity issues, may wish to alter the process. What I now do is follow your steps up until the cutting. When I get to that point I leave the window framing attached to the backing paper. Here I make my framing cut-outs. Right through the sticker and the backing. Then with a scalpel tools, hobby knife, tweezers, and patience I gently remove the backing from the cut-out. Apply it to a sheet of clear acetate. It is as this point I will add window dressing, glued inside the window glazing.. This could be paper printout of curtains, blinds, or even objects (like flower pots). I also, in a pinch use the backing paper of adhesive plasters (bandages) or therapy strips. They provide a variety of variations to the windows and avoid row after row of sameness. Here is where I cut the entire window and frame from the acetate. Then you and I are back on the same rails, attaching the windows to the interior. Just an alternative for those who may have difficulty with small object cutting. Or your an old goat like me. ~Jim in the U.S.A.
Thank you Jim - that is really interesting, and inspiring. Thank you very much indeed for watching my video and commenting. It's great to meet a viewer from the US and hear about alternatives to a technique I've shared. Thank you for watching. Much appreciated. --Michael.
Michael, you are a an absolutely brilliant scratch modeller and very generous person to share your techniques with those of us less advanced human beings. I REALLY appreciate this tutorial as well. Even if one is fortunate enough to find a supplier of windows, the size needs to be correct. Custom 3D printing is expensive, and for me, too time consuming. Why reinvent the wheel? This is a perfect balance of realism, inexpensive cost, and convenience. WOW!!!! Thank you, sir!!!!!
Welcome aboard! Thank you for watching! I assume you mean you're not into railway modelling? If so, I am honoured that you find my videos watchable! :) All the best, -- Michael.
@@Chandwell Hello! Correct I'm not into train modelling, but I have a deep admiration for such levels of skill and commitment. I sometimes watch people paint Warhammer models too, because those guys do some amazing work . I'm too ham fisted for such delicate work, so I like to live vicariously through those that do have the skills. I also like to explore things outside of my own social circles because I love seeing strangers light up when you can engage in conversation with them about their passions. I can can say to you for example, "oh, I've heard a little about that, can you explain gauges to me?' and off you will go happily! That kind of thing makes my day. Lastly, as someone who is working towards a job in the video editing market; your video editing and vidoeography is * chef's kiss *. Nice clean work. Good job :)
Thank you - that is very kind. I love the video editing part as much as any of the rest of it. In fact the videos keep me modelling and the modelling keeps me making videos. I love your outlook on life and I agree - the Warhammer modellers can achieve such magical and truly amazing results. Thank you very much indeed for commenting - it’s great having you here. -Michael.
Thanks for doing this video. Watched the one on the Ball Room which was well clever. You've inspired me to have a go at this tomorrow. Cheers, Rick the Bulldog
i'm a member of Romford model railway society and this idea is interesting, we are building a new layout "north weald" (as it is now) so i build the station i'll defo use this idea and see how they turn out. many thanks for posting this idea.
I just love this technique, you inspire me, I model in N gauge, my goal is to build something as grand a the hotel!, maybe you would like to send me some of your windows? Lol
What a great way of making window frames. Having moved from O scale to N scale I was wondering how to achieve frames that were fine enough, must get some labels ordered.
A very useful video Michael and your windows look great! Tim’s technique will save money, even though it takes a little more time. I only hope my old eyesight doesn’t fail me 😂😂😂
Did have a go at it. Rather fiddly at first but with patience and time I did okay. Haven't got a design or build to put any into at the moment, so that's my next task. Thanks again for doing the video and hopefully inspiring many others. Cheers, Rick the Bulldog
Oh my, that looks great, and I've been hand cutting window frames from white card for the last five of my scratch builds. I saw Tim's cottages on a web forum and wondered what his technique was when he said he'd cut his frames from sticky labels because they looked so well done. Thanks Michael for explaining this brilliant method.
Thank you Paul. I was surprised by how easy this one was... Well, the curved bits were not easy, but the rest seemed to work far better than I hoped. (Between you and me though, it took a bit of practice!)
Wow! What a simple technique. I'm making buildings for a layout at the moment and this will make the creation of window frames so much easier. I'm intending to scratch build a windmill and this will certainly help with the windows for the mill and buildings. Thank you for sharing this.
This technique will work brilliantly for your mill. A scratch-build of a windmill sounds like an excellent project. What scale? Would love to see the end result. --Michael.
@@Chandwell I am working in N scale. The sails are going to be rather fiddly to say the least, but I think I can work out a way to make them. The rest of the mill will be straight forward now that I know how to make the windows. If I succeed, I will certainly be posting the results!
For anyone looking to make N gauge curved windows using this method , I’ve just bought a small circle maker for just £3 from The Works with a pin on one end and a knife on the other , the radius can be adjusted to any small radius and it comes with five spare knives. Much better than cutting freehand
This is brilliant news Geoffrey - how do you find it? Does it work well? My concern with something like this was that it would be too fiddly at this small size. For the 0.2mm wide curved window frames on my station, I'd need to cut concentric circles with radii of 3.4mm and 3.7mm. Is it possible to use them at such a small size? I would have expected it to be too fiddly...?
Oh my goodness Michael, that is so clever and looks so easy. Definatly something I will have to bear in mind when I do the windows in the station building. Regards Chris
Hi Chris! It is really clever, I can't believe I was resistant to giving it a go. It worked so well, I was really surprised/happy with the result. I've not forgotten your station glazing, but I think you said there was no rush. Let me know if that changes! --Michael.
I find all such cutting work to be much easier using a metal parallel rule (the rolling type as used for sea navigation) as there is no need to align every cut - they are always parallel. You could also glue a metal cutting edge to a plastic rolling parallel ruler. Model looked very good!
You're very welcome! I am so pleased that you're making it work. If you get chance, watch my video this Friday (25 Mar) to see the largest single window I've made with this method! It never ceases to amaze me what can be done with it.
I cut N scale windows using a cheap laser cutter from Banggood. You have to use a laser with a super thin beam, and I use Inkscape to create the frames, and then convert object to path and then use an Inkscape extension to create the gcode files which you send to the laser cutter. The best paper for windows is low gsm 60 or 70 type stuff to avoid burn marks.
I’ve seen people do really good things with a laser cutter, and also a silhouette cutter but I’m sticking to hand techniques for Chandwell. I like the challenge and the resulting “look” of the layout with its slightly crooked feel. -Michael
Hi, Michael, another inventive tutorial which is well presented. Thank you. I noticed at around 4.08 of the video some platform canopies which you have created with sort of a dull opaque weathered look. For my first foray into modelling I wanted to reproduce my local station as it appeared in the 50s/60s when I was a youngster. My local station had a canopy, or valance, over the entrance and part of the platform, which, from old photos (unfortunately only black and white), look something like those on the video. The present state of the building does not retain the canopy. I have tried all sorts of materials and limited effects but the canopy sticks out like a sore thumb. However, I believe, yours on this video would do the original elegance of the building some justice, Is there a video of how you achieved the look of the canopies? NW
check 0:48 ''He heard from this guy claiming they where easy to make'''.. then after trying it himself (again: after hearing it was fairly easy to make''), He came to the conclusion that they where SUPRISINGLY easy to make. and trust me this guy isn't one that you suprise fast! THANX!
Thanks for sharing Michael, would never have thought of this. The results look good. Will have a practice when I'm off work next week, regards Bobby'T'.
Cheers mate, awesome video. I've been struggling with doing my own windows for the last little bit. Your video came in at the perfect time! I definitely will be giving this technique a try! Thank you so much for sharing this! Cheers, from the east coast of Canada!
Many thanks Stephen! Give it a go definitely, I feel like it has opened up so many new opportunities because I'm not stuck with what can be bought commercially. I think the station is going to look good. I've taken a pause from it at the moment while I try to sort the backscene out. Simple clouds behind the buildings, but having difficulties with an approach that is simple enough to do, and cheap enough to not require anything to be spent on it! I feel another video coming on! :) --Michael.
Wow…. I’m really impressed with the outcome!!! I think it looks as realistic as you can make it given the odd shape you had to work with!! Nicely done!!
Many thanks. I found this extremely useful. Not sure about the ‘easy’ as I went all the way and learned from scratch how to use Inkscape! This in turn taught me how to cut a section of canopy valance from a Victorian photo, extend and warp it to a curve then print to a sticky label! Superb modelling on your video too.
That beats the technique I've tried to use, painting thin lines on clear plastic using a toothpick. And I've been doing that in HO scale. I'll definitely give your technique a shot, and may even redo some of my past attempts (especially the most obvious ones).
@@Chandwell you certainly have natured a skill and what impresses me more is that you’re not scared to give it a go. Top modeller, top modelling, keep it up. 👍🏻
Great technique. A variation on this is to make the outside frame as suggested and then the horizontal/vertical bars using (white) cotton thread stretched across the frame. Looks good on cottages, country pubs etc. I am modelling in 00 scale but I think it should work equally well in N scale.
Go for it! I put it off too but suddenly realise that it opens up a whole new world of opportunities because you're not restrained by what is produced commercially. --Michael.
Thanks for this video, I have been trying this method on some n gauge buildings, the results have not been as good as yours, but I reckon I've been leaving the labels stuck for too long, as Im finding it hard to remove the sticky residue from the 'glass'. Using your advice, next time I'll work on it as soon as possible, also maybe I'm using labels which are too sticky. again, thankyou for this tutorial, you have some great tecniques!, cheers, Dave
Thank you Dave. Yes, I had the exact same problem on my first few goes, but now I'm getting excellent results all the time; it's taken a lot of practice. I have not counted how many windows there are on Chandwell now. But there are a lot!
Great technique which clearly works well. The over all effect is amazing and very convincing. I use similar but cut tiny strips of label or coloured vinyl and stick them on, and again for road marking and alike.
Thank you John! I've seen some of the excellent results you get. Not seen a video from you for a while - I hope all is well down at Piccadilly... All the best. Michael.
I wish I'd seen this a few months ago. I picked up a second hand Silhouette cutter mainly for making window frames, the difference with using that is I then have to peel off the bits I want to keep (i.e. the window frames themselves) rather than with your technique which discards the bits you don't want to keep. With the risk of tearing as high as it is trying to get everything off a super sticky cutting mat, I can only get down to lines which are about 1mm in width and I have to use thin acetate which is the only thing tough enough to take the strain of the whole process from cutting to peeling. Have you thought of using a coin or washer as a template to cut out the arched window frames? A joy to watch and thank you for posting - that station is going to be another special build.
Thank you as ever, Paul. Yes, the technique like this allows lines to become very thin. I had considered a coin or a washer, but my windows are unusual sizes (9.57mm for example). The arched window frame has an inner radius of 4.3mm and an outer radius of 4.6mm, so getting things the right size, and then getting them centred would be just as fiddly as the freehand method, I think... Still open for debate that one, I think. Thanks for watching as usual! --Michael.
Another great video, kept me entertained while doing some lead flashing. I have prepared another set of window frames for when I make a third version of Mossdale station building , it’s on the list of upgrades to do one day. I have used a different technique to the current station building which is ok but could be better. I will give your method a try before I decide which one is best. It’s unfortunate that Metcalfe do the correct window frames for the station building in OO but not in N gauge.
It's so nice to follow your advancements on the layout. I love your honesty when you talk about mistakes and the subtle jokes like rain in Chandwell and the hours it took to cut the beams. I have a couple of questions too: 1) Do you construct all buildings from card/paper? 2) How do you prevent the card/paper from splitting when you paint it? 3) How do you create bricks/brickwalls without just printing them on flat paper?
Thank you Jacob! I will try to answer your questions... 1) Yes, every structure on Chandwell is made from card and paper. The only exceptions are the windows which are made from clear acetate, and the station roof panels which are also acetate. 2) I don't know! It's never happened to me, and I don't think I've done anything special. 3) I do just print onto flat paper, but I find that using layers such as ledges that stick out, or arches that are recessed in, takes the eye away from the fact that the bricks are just "flat". I hope this answers your questions! Michael
Brilliant idea and fantastic description 👌 Really enjoying watching your layout come to life, hoping my n gauge layout comes somewhere close when I get the time to crack on with it.
Hi Michael, I shall try this technique, I’ve been thinking of using thin strips of styrene and making up a template but this way looks just as good. Like you say a subtle 3D effect to. The station is looking really good and I’m really looking forward to it coming together. Cheers for now Michael, John
Thank you John. Yes, I am over the moon with how well this worked. I was surprised by how thin I could get the window frames. Give it a go, and I am looking forward to seeing your results. Cheers! Michael.
Just found this great video and it's certainly a great idea which I will try for my n gauge buildings. I've used my silhouette portrait for making HO scale industrial windows and I'm now wondering if this would work with white vinyl in my cutter as the vinyl can be transposed onto any object, well almost any! Thanks for the tip and well done you.
Good idea. Let me know how you get on. I considered coins but with the difference in diameter between the inner and outer part of the frame being only 0.3mm I wasn’t sure what to do. Maybe just angle the blade differently.
I shall be needing to make windows for my Ongar Station building. It’s very likely that I’ll use this system to make them. And by the way, have you ever seen a Footwarmer Hut? We have one of the last four on the platform at Ongar Station.
I have heard of old footwarmers that used to get swapped out at stations along a route but never a foot warmer hut. It's great you have one at Ongar. Hope the technique works for you when you are building your station.
@@Chandwell There are only four left in the country of the Footwarmer huts, one in the National Railway Museum in York and three other including that at Ongar. It’s a small brick hut with a window to the side of the building to which the FIRST CLASS passengers went for their Footwarmers.
Brilliant videos. Just subscribed and well impressed. Do you sell any of the designs you have done, I really like the windows as i did find it difficult to cut these out but your idea was great. Do you have a download for this at all. Thanks and keep up the great interesting work. Thanks Ken
Thank you Ken, and welcome to Chandwell. I don't sell any designs and I don't have any downloads either. It's something I do think about from time to time, but my designs are a bit "rough and ready" for public consumption. Michael
Cheers Adam. I had not, but someone else suggested it too. He said it could be fiddly to use, and I was concerned that the tiny radii I needed, it would be difficult. For example, these curved frames would need one cut at 4.3mm radius, and then another at 4.6mm. Not sure it could cope with that... Any thoughts?
@@Chandwell I just tried it on some Kleen Edge masking tape. The thin section was fine with a nice sharp blade, but unfortunately my cutter on goes down to 5mm radius. It is only plastic so could be altered for the small difference I would think. Best of luck.
For arched windows in N scale I want to try out the sticky label method for the first time (yes, I cut my thumb...). How do I remove the remaining adhesive residue without damaging the delicate framework?
Nice video and cool technique. Question please. I need to build a lot of shallow background buildings for a (1930s-1940s era) large city area. I have currently been making them out of mat board. Is there an easy (or good way) to cut out windows both in the mat board and also in thin wood clap board walls made for smaller buildings? Is there a special tool or method to cut these opening? It's hard to cut out straight and square corners for window holes. Again, super nice video and great looking buildings. Phil NYC/Jersey Shore Area
Hello, and thank you for commenting. I only use a scalpel for all my windows, so I am not aware of any special tool. The thickest card I cut windows in is 1mm greyboard. I tend to cut these by overshooting the edges so I am not struggling with right-angled corners. I then take a lot more care when cutting the window apertures out of the paper which wraps the card.
It passes my mind every now and then... But at the moment, whilst I have a steady hand and decent eyesight, I'm not going to shell out on one. I actually enjoy the cutting; it's my favourite part of any build. To me, it's the cutting that gives me the greatest sense of satisfaction when I look at what I've made. I'm a glutton for punishment, that's for sure! :)
@@fx1c333 Gerrit plugged in and cut some stuff. Mines the Maker and I find it brilliant. I use it with Inkscape. Takes a bit of time to sus out the software (it did me anyway) but it's worthwhile. I'm recovering from a stroke and my problem is memory, takes me a few days to figure out how to do things and the day after I've forgotten and have to start again.
I'm afraid not. I don't do much painting. My own small brushes were just whatever was cheapest on Amazon at the time I bought them. I think I spent about £3 for a pack of 6.
