You usually have some screwy subjects to photograph, but your explanations are so good you don't often get peppered with questions. You are a Force too be reckoned with for your chewey content. You've outdone yourself this time!
Helicon Focus is great. I tried Helicon Remote which adjusts the lens focus slightly for each shot eliminating the need for a focus rail. However it was not compatible with my Sigma 105 f2.8 In the end went with a WeMacro automated rail. Very affordable, well built and easy to use with extreme accuracy. Happy camper ever since.
Hi Ben, as usual an unsuspecting subject made interesting! I recently bought a macro rail to try out and this looks like a great subject to practice with. I am also going to have a look at the helicon software as I’m always trying to get more of my macro pics in focus. I honestly learn something new every time I watch your videos, all the helpful tips and tricks, my macro has Improved so much! (Still saving for my own adaptalux studio too) ,,anyway ,,stay safe,,Andrea (Australia 😊)
I'm very very similar looking Focus real to the one you're using but I can't seem to find a way that mine attaches to a tripod. Mine doesn't have a one-day 1/4 20 hole unless I have to remove something from the bottom it's just pretty much flat
Sorry to be 2 years late with my question, but I just found this video today. It's very interesting and informative as I am just becoming familiar with focus stacking. I'm a bit confused though: When you slowly move the camera closer to the subject with the rail, doesn't the perspective change? In other words, the screw would be smaller and farther away in the first shot, and then larger and closer in the final shot. Can you explain this? Thanks.
You're right, the perspective changes a little, and the software usually handles this. You can change the focus of your lens to move the plane of focus through your image too, but this has slightly different effects and can cause a similar issue. Essentially, the framing of the closest image will become the framing of the final image the excess image around the edges will be cropped out of the final image. You should be able to see this happening in helicon focus as your image stacks and is finally cropped down to remove the edges. Helicon focus does a great job of accounting for this, but there can occasionally be ghosting effects around the edges of an object if the perspective changes too much.
For those who get into this seriously you will quickly tire of a manual rail. I use the StackShot by Cognisy. It is not inexpensive but makes things so easy. Focus on front, focus on back, choose step size, hit start and go away and have a coffee.
Don I also have the same focus rail Absolutely brilliant for indoor but I recommend a Premote control for outdoors promotesystems.com/products/promote-control but since this is a discontinued product I recommend keep any eye out on e-bay
@@johnkantar3082 I have the Olympus M1X which has in camera focus bracketing. It also has focus stacking but I never use it because a)it takes too long b) result is only jpg c)Helicon does a better job.
Hi Rob, no mirror lockup, it would be a drop in the ocean compared to the vibrations of the trucks driving by my house! I found that the images were nice and sharp and the stacking worked well even with considerable instability in my setup. It's usually best to do everything you can to prevent vibrations though. A remote trigger and mirror lockup (or mirrorless camera!) is a good way to go, especially if you can't get your shutter speed fast enough to prevent camera shake.
Hi Adaptalux! Been intrigued for a while now... If you can prove to me that you can take a low iso, sharp photo of the human iris, I'll buy the whole kit! Looking for a setup with minimal reflections and best quality results!
hI.. Just found this gem :) New sub :) Can it be done with a extension tubes, I do have a rail, but no macro lens. And I also only have a speedlight, I guess I can use speedlight for projects like this here in winter time :)
@@Adaptalux i mean to say are you using any focus staking slider to get the exact focus. Also i am wondering this light. Do no weather it is shipped in India or not
It's a cheap Neewer one. I can't recommend it though, it's good enough for the money, but if you can stretch a little further with your budget, I'd get something more solid.
It's no good Ben! I'm just going to have to invest in an Adaptalux! I've been saying this for nearly a year now and I still haven't got one! Nice 'Lockdown' haircut by the way! lol
You had a warning on your render. Did you investigate? Usually this comes from having images out of sequence of images with a focus point beyond your object. Also you mentioned you could use Photoshop. Photoshop is not likely to succeed with 150 images in a stack. It would take forever.
Hi Don, I agree that Photoshop would struggle with stacks this size, especially RAW files too. Some hardware might be handle it though, even if the processing times are excessive. As for the error, it was just a test photo in there out of place, I didn't have to re-process it. Well spotted though!
