Betty body is awesome, but yeah definitely deadbolt body. And yeah c10 front end deadbolt rears, absolutely the way to go. That extra length big gains alone.
Two questions for you Adam: What is the motor mount used? The one originally sold on MofoRC with the SMP appears to be forward facing… Also, what is your comparison between the SMP and the ROP, which is better and why? Maybe that could be a whole video on its own actually! As always, thanks for the great content per usual.
Hey David, I used the Mofo mount but turned my skid plate around so its rear facing. The ROP is double the KV rating, making is significantly faster. But in doing so, it sacrifices the low speed smoothness of the SMP (although it's close).
Personally, I prefer the ROP but that's mainly because I under drive my axles...and yes, you gotta run metal driveshafts. Mine was cannibalizing driveshafts like crazy until I went to metal driveshafts but be careful....my entire drive train on my JLU is 100% bomb proof metal components with the brass transmission.
I like the Deadbolt body because it resembles the real full body crawlers more. I really like your videos, I'm a noob in rc world but already got a SCX24 Deadbolt and gray C10. I would love a really detailed series on this Snaggletooth 2.0 build over maybe some episodes. For example like what parts to get, how to match them together, how to assemble etc. Other then that keep up your good work. This is my go-to mini crawler/ SCX24 channel. Cheers dude
Thanks for watching, I appreciate that! The build videos seem to be very popular. I would be happy to do a short series breakdown of the trucks. And I also agree with you about the bodies.
Hi! I have upgraded my SCX24 C10 chassis to Mofo Ugly AF chassis. I hope you can share with me how you install your magnetic body clip on your Mofo Ugly AF chassis. Thank you 😊
Why do guys remove the springs from the shocks? I have big bore oil filled shocks on my cr18p t hunter souped up mod but didnt know if I should take the springs off like alot of guys i see
That's an awesome build! My 1:10 build is 4WS, Would that tx/receiver give me the same options? Looks easier to select what option you want rather than just 1 option at a time
Just under 600g. I think 400-500 is the sweet spot in my experience. But I also think it's less about total weight and more about how it's distributed (assuming you've got adequate power for the weight)
Does the stock deadbolt body fit on the C 10? I have a modified C 10, but I really like the look of the deadbolt body. I am wondering if it would be possible for me to buy a deadbolt body on its own and then attach it to the frame of the C 10.
Yeah Adam, I run Nick's Carbon Fiber Ugly AF Chassis on all my builds and Swamp King tires are my favorite. I wish they'd make 1.9 or 2.2 Swamp Kings for my Vanquish Phoenix Straight Axle......hands down, Swamp Kings ROCK!! Anyway....nice build. I especially like the paint job....😂
Not sure if you’ve ever done a step-by-step build-along video but I think that would be awesome. As a noob, it would be helpful to follow along in detail for the first upgrades of each component to learn the process!
@@CapeCrawlers Ah - awesome - yes that’s a lot closer to what i was thinking. I probably even need to work out how to fit parts, I am a 100% noob, so even need to learn how to swap the parts, but I’m sure I’ll figure that out when I get the truck and parts. Having the step by step upgrade series is really cool though - it’ll help a lot!
They rub slightly. I have the deep dish wheels with the negative offset, stock hexes. I use the shock location and preload adjustment to reduce the rubbing
Snaggletooth did not get along with the Mofo portals. I kept snapping dogbones like crazy. Interestingly, after I put the portals on the Warthog they work perfect! So to answer your question, I prefer the Mofo RC portal design because its cleaner and is less prone to hang ups on the portals. But the RCAWD units look great and seem to function really well on this build.
