the small spheres on the vertical spring supports were indicators of encumbrance. They had the width of the most protruding parts of the vehicle, to indicate to the driver whether he could go through narrow passages Are used today also.
Yep...started by Packard in the early days. They were indicators so you can see how wide but also they were used in trucking to tell weight when installed on the rear. It wasnt very reliable but it went like this: A larger circle was painted on the wall of a grain barn or a post was put up with a ring on it. A stopper post was received slightly in the ground horizontally at a 90 deg angle. You pulled up to the loader and when the ball centered into the ring or circle they knew it was full when loading from the side or back if closed. Packard saw this and used them on the trucks in front as a makeshift fender indicator. It's still used on some farms in the rear but everywhere in the front.
Another masterpiece. You make them look so easy to make and finish, but anyone who has ever built a model knows how hard it is to make a kit look as good as you do.
Truth. I love Plasmos 1/72 scale because I build these too, and its very hard to reach his level. I am still trying, and I been building models for 43 years. A true Master.
I built my first model at 14 years old about... a week ago. I am getting a new one to work on soon, and I, by no means, have anywhere near as much experience as you guys, but I think I understand what mastery of the arts you need to create builds like this.
the balls show the driver if he can pass the gap with the vehicle. They are showing to him the width of the vehicle. The rear of the vehicle is widther the the front. If he fits into the gap with the front without toughing the balls with the obstacle, the whole vehicle will get tru. They can be aslo used as help while uploading the vehicle on the train or when you pass ponton bridge.
8:03 "I don't like putty." Oh come on, we all know you love that shit! :D I've seen you filling in and sanding even the most microscopic gaps, so don't even start :)
Since i found this page, I've watched every single one of your videos. Your work is truly remarkable. Also enjoyed looking at your models getting better and better and the dedication and patience you give to your craft.
"... or painkillers." xD it will never cease to amaze me how you'll take an already detailed kit and be like "ehhh, I can make it better." brilliant job, as always!
Hey PLASMO- plastic models. This was a SUPER EXCELLENT BUILD! I liked and shared. I said this to my Twin Brother: This Guy is so talented and such a Pro at building models. I pick up a lot of tips, tricks, and I'm in AWE every time I watch his videos. Excellent Job. Enjoy (Thank you for sharing your time, talents, skills, tips, knowledge, SUPER Attention to detail, and Fun Creative Videos. Take car and have a great weekend.) :D
This model is stunning. Really well done :) I really hope you'll do a locomotive one day. Seeing all of your detailing and weathering techniques on a loco would be amazing
Miss you Plasmo! Hope this long pause is only you on vacation or busy with something else. Can't wait for the next example of modelling genius! Stay well!
hi, you were saying there if anyone knows a good way of making the width bars on front what we do if doing them Ball bits on the end is, using your punch and die set punch out a small round disc just flat and glue it to the tip of the copper or brass rod, or if doing the chains on the IDF merkava glue the flat disc to the end of the chains and just dip them in a bit of enamel paint! turn them upside down the paint actually beads up perfectly in to a ball on the end's it works perfectly! i actually found this out with hobbyboss's merkava they had flat disc on the bottom of the turret chains so dipped them into paint and let them bead up! hope this small tip can be added to your memory bank for future reference's!? at least it's another good way of getting a perfectly Ball shape of any size in seconds!
Plasmo, please , read it. Videos which you offer for watching in the end hamper me to see the name of compositions and their authers. Please correct it. P.S. model are really impressive
Your attention to detail is second to none, and the fact that you do these kits in 1/72 scale makes this even more remarkable. I'm honoured to be learning from a Master. 10 out of 10 !
Only good kit I saw of one was a 1/35 Trumpeter one, and they cost ~$60-$80 a pop; there are many good kits for less and better kits for the same out there; it's grim.
For all the modifications you do on your models with wire and such you need to get your hands on a Jewelers Anvil. They are very small and it would give you a hard surface for shaping. Amazon carries them and they are under $20 USD.
I know this goes without saying but your skills as a modelist are the finest I have ever witnessed. If I may say sir, I believe your style is of the "Ultra Real". Most Excellent. Perfection. Your skills with panel lining and especially your Weathering Work is far better than any I've encountered. Every Piece I've seen makes me want to be able to paint at this level. Someday...
The matchbox really shows how tiny this thing is. Amazing detail. Many years ago I used to try painting some of the Airfix 1/72 soldier kits - pretty much impossible, I found. I'd love to see something similar in a larger scale - but I understand they cost money, take up room, and take more time.
David...as always, an inspiration. Even down to the empty creamer packs. I have enlisted my co-workers (who drink gallons of coffee) to give them a quick rinse and put them in a special cup on my desk. It won't be long before I have a year's supply.
The kit looks just so freaking amazing, _just one thing though_ I hate to be that guy, but the wood on those rifles should be much more, well, _wood like_ Like that it just seems like the rifles are full of dust, which is never particularly healthy for any firearm
Fantastic out come of the Revell 8ton half track,David. References are important when trying to get realistic result. The scratch building tutorial of the tray was great. Making tiny handles,wow.
Hi plasmo I am a cardboard modeller I have seen ever single vid of yours and I also tried to make the sdkpfz from cardboard this is a salute to an modeller to an modeler
Špina, olejové škvrny, známky opotrebovanosti počas prevádzky v poľných podmienkach.... to je známka majstrovstva na všetkých Tvojich modeloch. Špičková práca a nie len ta tomto modely....🌲👍👍👍
Hello!!! This little ball thing on top of the frontal fenders of "every truck" defines the width of the truck, so if doesn't fit the passage, the truck can't go through. Cheers Brother!!! You smash!!! Do the "Gustav" (ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-As3NzDQknVc.html)
pre "policajtov" na blatnikoch pouzivam nad svieckou vytiahnutu nitku z plastikoveho ramceka. Biele gulicky ziskavam z MAXTRA filtra do BRITTA konvic na vodu, v kazdom filtri ich je x tisic.
Once more... very good. I like yours little details adictions... the care and concern to make the most real possible, following a real model... Why do you not build a warship model? I'm looking forward to it.
What model Harder Steen do you use? I’m still using a 1982 Paasche H But i can’t get results that I would like!! It’s a good solid tool!! But it can’t handle the fine , low pressure, fine tip work! Thanks Dean
Hello plasmo. Your videos make me want to start into this Hobby. I´m interested in Aircrafts (WWII and pre 90´s) Whats the best scale to start? 1/72 are larger and maybe easier? But it takes more place on the shelves too. What do you think? Thanks in advance
One question for anyone. Could you use an empty Tamiya extra thin quick setting cement bottle or an empty Mr. Cement S bottle and adapter for the Revell Contacta? Nice job on the build.
Are we allowed to make requests? Can you show how you balance aircraft landing gear? Whenever I put my models together the wheels are never balanced and the plane ends up wobbling. I've asked other people and they've told me to just eyeball it, which obviously I can't do. Any help much appreciated.
Should do a video (or videos) for very beginner's. Iv built one model before and it turned out semi-ok (didnt paint, paint stuff costed a bit) and I was curious about techniques, tips, and possible easy improvements.
It is my understanding that the small posts with the ball on top which were painted white (just the ball), served as a visual marker for the width of the vehicle while driving at night with blackout lights so that on coming vehicles could gauge the width of traffic approaching them. It was also done with painted white stripes on the widest point on the front, rear, and side corners. These often became so dirty, that they didn't really accomplish their intended purpose. Although never officially discarded, troops often ignored repainting these markings, especially after 1942.
Hi David Those 'balls' you mentioned in your video are for the driver of the vehicle to see how far the vehicle stuck out so he would know if he could get through a tight space. It was common on armoured cars of the German army during ww2. Also could you please build a Willys Jeep they are quite cute little cars to build.
ineccepibile l'interpretazione più raffinata e dettagliata del vano di carico. Incredibile addirittura le maniglie per l'apertura del cofano o i canali anti sdrucciolo longitudinali sui pneumatici (anche se neanche nella vecchia 600 FIAT o su auto degli anni 60 di mio padre mi ricordo un tale accorgimento tecnico che venne molto più tardi) ma su una cosa mi sono bloccato: il vano di carico mezzano, quello solo per i materiali, hai fatto uno stupendo gabbiotto rialzato sacrificando tutto lo spazio sottostante. Ora non credo che la milizia tedesca rinunciava ad uno spazio facilmente accessibile abbassando solo le sponde laterali. Sarebbe stato un tocco geniale in più se si intravedevano anche sotto i materiali, questo avrebbe permesso di evitare d'infilare una cassa sotto i sedili dei soldati. Comunque un ottimo lavoro, anch'io patito del 1/72 e sulla perfezione non sono ancora ai tuoi livelli, anche se in un modello elicottero Boeing CH-46, ho disegnato sulla lunga pedana che non ti permette di vedere le impronte dei pneumatici dei mezzi imbarcati o le impronte degli uomini.
The only small criticism I can make on this incredible build and paint job, is in the wearing of the wood. It would have bee interesting to wear the paint of were men might have been sitting mores than evenly everywhere. Like where feet would be rubbing on the floor or butts on the seats. It's a small small thing. This is a beautiful build as always!
Heres a challenge for your next model with diorama. Try making a model with wet effects, as though it is in the rain. Would be interested as to how you would accomplish this
Hey. Its easier to cut wheel tread if you put razor saw on a sheet of styrene horizontally and turn the wheel. then add bit of styrene for another line. this way you have same spacing every time. You can use balsa trimmer tool for that. Anyway, amazing video as always.
