I got the RD6006 today. Really nice lab PSU. High Voltage to charge e-bike power packs or check led strips from TVs with 40-50V. Only the noise wasn’t tolerable. I modified the power supply. Removed the cover and the fan and connected the NTC from the fan control to the main transformer. It was the hottest part and this way the fan has a long delay.
The temp probe was included to measure cell temps for the battery charging function provided through the incorrectly coloured 'green' terminal. My power supply arrived with a dent in one end and DOA. It had been dropped hard enough to break the transformer ferrite core and shear off all the connections from one side. I received a refund but managed to araldite the core and repair the connections. I've been using it a year now with no problems. The fan in mine only runs when warm.
I did my 6006 with a 500VA toroid that gives me a few other isolated outputs, and with a 20000uF 100V smoothing cap it required a soft start on the primary, but the performance and noise level is excellent, and it was great to have a use for some archaic and massively heavy components. I also repurposed an old piece of perfectly sized lab equipment for the case, milled a new front panel and fitted a fan to the rear, triggered to higher speed from idle by the Riden onboard fan, I was also able to source from the junk box a few extra identical binding posts which I removed the collar from a red and replaced the green on the Riden, then fitted a front panel (green) ground and also added a pair of 12Vac ports vertically aligned with the Riden posts, as I find isolated AC quite useful on the bench sometimes. I also then added a mains switch directly below the Riden soft button. Another feature of this supply is the refresh rate of the display, it tracks voltage and current variations at amazing speed, making a nice change for digital readings where analogue would otherwise be better. Another small detail, the supplied temp sensor is not what's showing live on the home screen, that temp is the Riden's own internal sensor. To get the external sensor temp you need to scroll to page four 'i' where it is the last item listed. Great review anyway, cheers.
@@akhurash I used a 10 ohm 10 watt resistor on the primary side, and a 24v relay energised from the secondary using a 1.8K series resistor for the coil to achieve 24v from the 65v rectified secondary. The relay contacts bypass the 10 ohm resistor once the secondary voltage comes up,. in use it takes about one second and the primary current draw only peaks around 5A now, down from about 30... It was more essential than I anticipated, I also tried a NTC thermistor, but it didn't work well at high loads, although it could have been bypassed the same way with a relay, the resistor softened inrush right down, so it stayed put. Cheers.
They have released the RD6018 now. I got the 65V PSU, which has a raiser board next to the blue pot. The fan has only 2 levels, 0 volt of 15 volt (it's a 12V fan). I replaced the diodes at the heatsink next to the terminals, it has 1x MUR3060PT, I replaced them with 3xSTTH30AC06C which increases efficiency. I also added a 12cm fan running of the 15V board power to keep everything nice and cool
after watching some russian youtubers i saw that theres a chinese company called 100MHz that makes custom aluminium cnc'd cases for those rd series powersupplies, really nice looking ones. but unfourtainly only on taobao.
I also use the RD 6006-a wonderful power supply, beautiful, solid, convenient. It can even use the PC software to have programming. By the way, very well done calibration of voltmeters and ampermeter, not just +/ -, and using the function y=a+bx. Chinese guys well done - very good device!
An important isolation to check is the ground of the USB port. If it is in any way connected to the power supply electronics having 2 of these units connected to a single computer can create a dangerous ground loop.
Just bought one thanks to your review on them, The "newer PSU" statement is not correct as I still got the 70V with the resistor model. Guess its a tossup if you get the new 65V or the older 70V unit. Thanks for the review though!
the switch that came with the chassis kit welded 'on' during a long durtation operation for me... I've replaced with a better quality switch. Also I replaced the diode with a pair, as per another youtuber, as the single diode can suffer rapid temperature failure for prolonged high-power usage. Other than that, no problems otherwise.. although I have purchased a toriodial transformer and eventually will get that going to reduce switching noise.
I would've loved to see the output scoped under different loads to show the difference in noise levels. Maybe try to fix the 70V model in a separate video? I bought one of the smaller DPS3005 and it blew up from a back feed of the batteries I was charging. So yeah... don't do that. It has no protection. Also, the switches were cheap membranes and the pokey bits came through the plastic cover of the buttons. This one looks like it has a better quality front end, and can withstand the daily use.
The reason I didn't is because I've noticed most of these electronic loads add their own noise to the waveform. It ends up not being a particularly representative test
the newer ones come with a small board to mount to the rear of the housing but this then eliminates the thermistor you have Mounted on the psu. i installed the small board on the two 6012pw models I just got and I'm not sure now if I should remove that and tape down the thermistor. I may drill a small hole and wire it so I can use either the external one they give you with the case now or switch it for the internal one ill have to test it so e to see if its needed. the one at the rear allows you to plug the thermistor into it for things like charging up batteries etc
I like the NVVV label that if you weren't paying attention could fool you into thinking it said Mean Well. MW. They picked the same color too. Pretty shitty if you ask me.
Pretty common too... I'm currently living in Mainland China and this kind of stuff is very common with most brands. And then you gave cases when they straight copy away their branding and products without any remorse. I normally say that they aren't even good for their own brands. Mentality is simple, if there is a buck to be made, there will be people doing it. Ethics are out of the picture.
Very well done. I have been looking at these as well. Pit falls... Thank you for your time and effort! Nicely done! I may have mised it, car the supplies be configured as + - rails? Thank you again! Joel
Im being super 'picky' now ! (love your channel) but I personally would not restrict the airflow even a tiny amount with the cables...all comments add up right ?...cheers.
Have recently bought a large, salvaged center-tapped transformer for experimenting with audio power amps. I get 64V DC, after rectification and smoothing ... the voltage is a little too high. I worry that high frequency buck converters will introduce noise, necessitating another round of capacitance multipliers to remove it. Unsure what audio hobbyists use to drive chip amps, when a very smooth, symmetrical center tapped power source is needed.
@@GnuReligion Capacitance multipliers? Perhaps you mean (LC) filters? High frequency buck converters should have low ESR (ceramic) capacitors at their inputs and outputs to contain the noise and ripple. For audio circuits in most older commercial products and hobby projects you will find a linear supply (50 Hz transformer) and linear regulators providing the supply for the pre amplifiers (often +/-15 V). Switched supplies aren't that popular for audio, maybe that's just because people think that switching noise will be an issue. I have a more modern receiver on my desk from Denon which uses a switched mains supply and a class-D power amplifier. The outputs of that amplifier are in a bridge configuration (like an H-bridge) so a symmetrical supply isn't needed.
Had purchased a 60V Power Supply for their new RD6018 Power supply module I had purchased before on AliExpress. They told me they could not ship the Power Supply but did not refund me either. It took 3 months to get my money back through PayPal. I'd stay clear of their Aliexpress Store if you don't want to waste 3 months of your life.
For the fan always beeing on, I've made the resistor modification. We just have to replace the 60 ohms resistor by a 160 ~ 180 ohm resistor. source comment: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-lsnD56XJxlY.html&lc=Ugzbey5DzjMiqAswQBB4AaABAg.9CaGezCvOFB9CcK5tGE2EP
