My uncle was probably on the Exeter when it was sunk in the Java sea. He was definitely on the Repulse when that went down a short while earlier, but I don't know which ship he was sent to afterwards - I just know he ended up as a POW. He survived the camps, but the Japanese looked after him so well that he died shortly after the war from the after effects of their hospitality
You should paint a number of parts before assembling, those that are very small, or will be hard to reach later on. But your video special effect with the ocean waves is insane, wow!
@@jimcarr4007 Zvezdas new kits are most of the time fit well and are more or less easy to assemble. Revell kits are also always a good choice for newcomers. Do you want to build ships? Revells miniships are a fun build tough they aren't of best quality otherwise try 1/700 scale ships from Revell.
Holy moly man I've been binge-watching your videos and I'm absolutely blown away by your skill and attention to detail. I have been building Gunpla, Bandai Star Wars, and Revell Star Wars models for a while now but they're the snap models and seem like child's play compared to the things you do. You've inspired me to take the hobby further and attempt some more difficult builds. Keep up the fantastic work my man, much love from Chicago! - Colton
Hey Colton, thanks mate. Very kind of you. By the way, my brother lives not far from you...Champaign. I have visited him a couple of times, you live in a wonderful part of the world friend....well at least when its not snowing... lol.
A nice piece of work her on a 1/700. with all those small details, but as a retired captain i would say that no ship will be in open water with its gangway out and lowered as you have on her starboard quarter, good seamanship says that when you leave port you secure the gangway ;), nitpicking thats what old seadogs do best. Keep up with your good work.
Thanks Helge...I know very little about ships, but even as I was gluing on the gangway, I felt that it did not feel right. That's why I glued in on one side only...he he he. I know I should have done a little more research but...you live and you learn. Thanks again :)
Thanks Bill. I am currently working on the Fly Hawk HMS Prince of Wales, that is one super detailed kit. I have never seen plastic detailing that fine, ships, aircraft, tanks...just really good.
Beautiful work, I just came across your channel and like what I see so far…so I subbed and hit the bell…looking forward to watching more of your builds.
This diorama is amazing. My brother has just started building a HUGE battleship - the Yamato - which will probably take weeks or months to build. I'd like to make the seascape at the end for him. As I don't have an airgun, could I sponge on the paint, could I get the same effect. Thanks for a great video
Very nice job mate! However you missed the rigging and the flag(s). I refuse to built waterline kits...and I know there are a lot like me...it constrains you to put it on a see diorama and only in calm waters since if it is a bit rough you need to sow some of the hull which does not exists...
Thanks mate. I really tried to find a rigging plan but could not find one. Also i have little experience with ships.. too little to rig it on my own. any idea where one can get rigging plans.
Thanks Jan. The water movement was done using an app on my phone. It's called Pixaloop. The app is free and comes with some basic functions, you have to pay for the more advanced options. This animation was done using just the basic functions :)
Excellent construction of model and water diorama. However, I think the weathering is too heavy for such a small scale. Ships were not this dirty/rusty. I think just hints of wear and tear would work better for such small scale project.
I agree....but his was my first ship kit and I don't think I judged the scale for weathering correctly. The other problem was that when I tried to keep it subtle, the damn thing would hardly show :) But I guess next time I will keep the weathering more subtle.
Hi Jim thanks for watching. So, when it comes to ships I have started leaning more and more towards two brands, FlyHawk and Aoshima, though I am sure there are some really good kits by other manufacturers out there as well. The kits are not that hard to find, the challenge often is finding the accompanying after market PE set and the wooden deck. I live in Singapore so the two places I search (other than our local hobby shops) are Hobby Link Japan (hlj.com) and Hannants (hannants.co.uk). Also, if you get friendly with the hobby store owner, they will often help you find a good kit and the after market parts :)
The railings for this ship came from a PE set that was specifically designed for this ship, so they were already cut to size. Else, when using generic railing, I use a thread to measure out the length. Then cut a few centimetres longer than required, to adjust for bending or curving. I hold it in place and then make a final cut if any adjustment is needed :)
what a lovely job you did, as a fellow 1/700 ship builder, that's an outstanding job, with a lot of helpful techniques displayed. Why did you not rig her?
Hey William, thank you. I am glad that you liked the video. I really wanted to rig her, but despite a long and exhaustive search I could not find any information on how this ship was rigged. For a little while I thought I would just rig her using my imagination, but that did not seem right, so I left the rigging off. I know it would have really added another dimension to the kit.
@@scalemodellingmadness4114 I asked as you did such a great job on the rest of it, and I picked up so many tips (thank you) that I was looking forward to seeing how you rigged her, as rigging can be patience testing.
Thanks Leonid. I did not remove the plastic deck. The wooden deck is actually a very thin laminate layer that is self adhesive. So, all I did was remove all the extra bumps and knobs on the plastic deck that were not required and then glued the wooden laminate in place. Also, there is a four part series of this built on the channel, it's much more detailed than this complete build video. Hope that helps :)
Hey Spence, the painting of the kit black first is called black basing or priming. It helps in a couple of ways. Firstly, a unified paint over the kit helps one spot any mistakes (like bad seam lines, finger prints, etc.) easily. If such a mistake is spotted one can correct it, by sanding or puttying, and then reapply the black base to check again. The same would be much more painful do to if you have already applied the final coat of paint. Secondly, the black base helps create natural shadows. If one controls the application of subsequent layers of paint, once can use the black base to achieve nice and subtle tonal variation. Hope that helps :)
Thanks before that I use to go to Local Home depot purchase a spray primmer to apply to the model. Now I know spray the kit "Black Basing" is a better way and the result are better. Other question is do I need to spray a coat of clear gross finish to the whole model before I apply the weather line to protect the paint I apply before and after I apply the weather line. I spray another cost of Flat clear cost and call that complete.
Thanks buddy. The open cup is a bad habit of mine, I have tried to be more disciplined about it, but after a few sessions I am usually back to the open cup...lol. btw I have ruined more than one paint job on this account, but never learn my lesson.