Searching for the Fastest Tire / Rim Combo 

Your standards are obviously very low...!!!

But tan walls are 64% cooler soo....

@@zoid88 I concur!

it does appear the tan sidewalls are not quite as fast, but sometimes you can find them for half price!

That's odd I didn't hear any music, but I'm on drugs currently.

I got the Shimano C46 (105 version of these wheels). They are so much easier to mount on than my older Mavic and DT Swiss wheels.

I think you should change to something faster. GP5K vs 4 Seasons, that's the mass gain here. That will offset any of these marginal stuffs. If possible, deeper wheel then. Obviously that's not cost effective but in terms of gain, that will still offset anything about this ratio thing.

@@xuchenglin6256 Yeah agreed 5000s would be fast for track and crit but the roads around here... i need that puncture resistance and assurances for Time trials.

nothank you, 25s feel so harsh and unless you have super narrow rims they will be slower too

I would also like to see test with 30 mm external width

I think I have heard of people doing this before on tt bikes, 23mm front 25mm rear

I believe the air flow is ALREADY turbulent by the time it gets to the rear wheel, so having a more comfortable, lower rolling resistance tire (consistent with the frame, of course) makes sense.

I'm also a couch engineer, but I think the idea is to keep the airflow attached as long as possible, whether in front or in back. This is why aero bikes have deeper sections. Attached air is always good. The light bulb effect is never desirable.

it wasn't particularly windy this day, but yes in general lightbulb is more susceptible to poor crosswind performance

ya it's possible, but the 25mm test duplicated gave me some reassurance, and so did the consistency between these tests and the tests done with the wider rovals (discussed towards the end of the video)

@@NorCalCycling - great video. My first thought was similar. Nearly all the runs had the same time (within 2 seconds) except 28’s. Was it the tire or the variables … Either way, great job on your videos and congrats on your channel. Actually have a set of Winspace Hyper wheels being delivered today. External width of 28. Sitting here trying to make a decision on tires.

tubes because changing tubeless on 8 wheels in a day seemed like a bad option

it has to do with the internal width of the rim, not the tire

@@NorCalCycling I’m riding the same 21/28 width as those C50 wheels. My GP5000s are an absolute balloon.

we did! check the last video about tire size where we changed average speed

@@NorCalCycling Ok perfect thanks!

Not necessarily - it depends on the outer width of your wheels. If you have wider wheels like the 35mm wide rovals in the previous video, 32mm tires would be faster.

Not very fast to be repairing a flat on the side of the road 😢

CLX50

@@NorCalCycling cheers

Or remove the music. Unnecessary and annoying

Yeah RC120 is a very good bike, only thing you need to change is the tyre (just like any bike except the super bikes). I learn that the hard way. I jumped on some GP5K TL when I got my new deep wheel (new at that time, $1000+, on a different bike), because all I heard is "a wheel is the best upgrade you can make to your bike". Because that wheel is tubeless, then I have to get some new tubeless tyre, hence the GP5K TL, new wheel, new tyre. After setup, I'm shock at the speed bump and I thought it was the deep wheel (50mm front, 88mm rear), only later found out that it's more as a effect of the tyre.

If you can pair that power meter to your Phone or Watch then it's more than enough. The only thing to concern is the battery life. With a bright screen, the watch and especially the phone won't last so long. But you will carry a battery brick anyway. The bike "computer" is really just some really primitive "computer" that are largely overpriced. A "bike computer app" on a phone will make a very suitable project for anyone who is just learning programing... There's really nothing going on in there. They are priced similar to a phone but with let's say 1/100 of the performance/tech. The only upside is probably the battery life. If you really want a dedicated device without ever worrying about the battery, I'll say get some basic Garmin watch like the FR255. You can strap then to your bars -- there are special accessories for this purpose. They cost similar with their "head units" but at least they have more use cases. With the head unit it's collecting dust 24/7 when you are not riding. With a watch at least you can wear it 24/7. And you can swim/bike/run/hike... Even though from a tech perspective they are still 1/100 of a cheap phone, but at least the versatility and huge battery life justifies it.

tubeless ready, but i used tubes so i could perform all these tests. In my usual riding i run them tubeless.

there's no reason to assume that the results would be any different. Same with tubeless which is what I usually run. had to used tubes for the sake of completing all these tests.

@@NorCalCycling I would argue that TPU tubes and even to a higher degree latex tubes will be faster and lighter than the regular butyl tubes. Though more expensive, if you look for a negative.

latex and tpu are faster, but across the board, so just shave a few seconds off all these tests and the conclusion remains the same.

it's a factor when calculating optimal pressure. also just generally really important in cycling performance because of gravity, and because of accelerations.

i would like to, but i've yet to find a safe way to do a blind test. I have another method coming soon though...

Easier to change and cheaper for testing

gotta use tubes to get these tests done in a reasonable amount of time. TPU or latex wouldn't make a difference in this testing.

Sepcialized did this with Segan in the wind tunnel. Turns out the face is so un aerodynamic that a bit of facial hair doesn't matter.

@@h4rdcor31 okay how about sunglasses VS no sunglasses

@@zachhughes8123 everyone knows you are more aero when you look cool. And your mom's opinion doesn't count.

it didn't - you should watch the whole video, especially towards the end I address it directly.

@@NorCalCycling gotcha.. Missed that.. I'm getting new aero 50 hunts in 30 external, so 30mm tyres will be ideal I think!

I believe the limit approaching 1:1 is best. 31.99 on 32 external width would be optimal. I don’t understand saying rule of 105 over and over again like it’s 1995.

Elitist much

I would be wrong but wasn't the other video saying that the 32MM was the best tires to use? @norcalcycling Can you explain the sudden change in tires?

@@irvingabbott6 because these kinds of outdoor tests are almost meaningless. Unless you take the exact same line, put exactly the same power into the crank for every second of the run, hit the exact same pebbles, deal with the exact same wind gusts, etc., you're going to end up losing or gaining a few seconds here and there no matter what.

just watch the videos, 32mm was correct on the rims we used in the other video, 28 was the best on these rims.

This video was another banger. What I would like to know next is if it makes a difference to have a larger tire on the rear wheel than on the front wheel.

@@irvingabbott6 In that other video he was using 35mm wide (front) Roval wheels. That would seem to favor the 32mm tire. It might be interesting if this test had been performed with the Rovals. Then we could see if the fastest tire moves towards the 32.

I was wondering the same thing!

I use 28(29mm actual width) front and 30 (31mm actual width) rear tyre combo on ~29mm external width rim and it is soooo much better then 28/28. No testing on my side, but average speed on routine courses is quite similar, yet control is better and fatigue is substantialy lower.

Same question for me. If you tested again with 28mm at front and 30 then 32 at rear, my guess is that you could improve on the straight 28 results. Could well be wrong

Interesting fact: They have that pattern because it supposedly improves aerodynamic performance of the tire.

it is actually fine to run them any direction. originally the Continentals had that arrow just to prevent people contacting support to ask. It is possible that today its oriented for the best aerodynamics of that sidewall pattern but I bet it still doesn't matter.

You want the front wheels to be wider to break more air and this has already been accomplished by changing the arc of the tires surface usig varying rim widths. The outer rim width on some newer wheelsets have been wider on the front wheels than on the rear because of this actually (see CRW and Elitewheels Drive) by an insane 5mm (34-29mm) on the CRW cs wheels.

I agree I would love to see different tire pressures on each setup in the next video

We all know what happens when you change tire pressure. This entire comment is like, "ok?" Lol, the video is about the fastest tire and rim combo, rolling resistance and aero obviously matters here Also slicks tires have always been a thing

I made a video about tire pressures already, check out the channel!

Silka, SRAM, etc. have already done the work of computing the optimum pressure for a given tire and rim width, rim type, riding conditions (wet, dry, rough, smooth), etc. The seem to recommend the same pressures for the same conditions, so it seems likely they're all pretty accurate. They could each be wrong by the same amount, but it seems a better use of Jeff's time to tackle questions that the calculators don't answer.

@@darrellstyner0001 I'll be the pessimist. You mean how every road tire manufacture, every pro bike team, and pretty much everyone in the industry believed 180 psi and skinny little tires were faster for many decades? I'd rather see a test to add to the body of evidence that we are heading in the correct direction.

This would by a good test

I'm with ya!

Business in the front, (comfy) party in the back - the mullet of tire width combos!

trailing edge of rear wheel having a bulge is still bad, but might be worth it depending on the bike/rider/speed

i have seen people do it with these same tires and it really didn't make any difference which make sense because these specific tires have very little thread and really all the thread it has is mostly just for looks. with tires that have actually functional thread the tire direction makes alot of difference and it is very noticeable.

It might not make a difference in rolling resistance but I'm very certain it will make a difference in grip especially while cornering at high speeds downhill

@@sueghdsifbvjvn I look forward to seeing the results of your test of this theory on your RU-vid channel....

@@oplkfdhgk It makes a significant difference on GP's, because the tread contributes to the low aero drag of the tyre.

@@joebusby1 i can see how that could be real.