Seating Drumheads: Necessary? How To? Hazardous? | Season Two, Episode 18 

Do you seat your drumheads? What's your method? Also, be sure to let us know what drumheads/drums you're using!

In my 50 years of playing experience, seating drum heads was more important years ago than today. It was a way to get uneven glueing in the head to release prior to tuning and thus render a better, more stable tuning. With todays better construction methods I haven't heard a head release tension (crackling sound) in a number of years. That said I still seat new heads just in case. The first step in making sure a head is seated properly is to put the bearing edge on a perfectly flat surface and ensure that you have a perfectly flat bearing edge. Without that you'll never get the optimum sound out of your drum! After ensuring I have a good bearing edge, I place the head on, then put on the rim and finger tighten. Seating is done by placing force down on the rim at the lugs across from one another, making sure you get every pair of opposing lugs pushed. This method assures you'll seat in the same manner that the head will be used in once fully tensioned. I've never had a head release after doing this and they tune up fine and resonate nicely for the life of the head!!

I attended a masterclass with Ross Garfield (The Drum Doctor, no1 go-to studio drum tech in L.A. since the 1980s) last november. He told us that he had tried a lot of things, but ended up using the method of over-tightening, let it sit and then tune to desired pitch.

Thanks. Best channel for drummers. Great playing, by the way.

Benny Greb does that collar crushing stuff. It's on his dvd. I tune like Gavin Harrison. 2 keys, across from each other. So the head gets pulled evenly. Look up the protean video from Sonor. He explains it in detail. Simon also does the 2 keys thing. I recommend it. Buy the Sonor protean key or the tama tdk10. Btw... CPR is not with the knuckles 😉

I’ve watched this video multiple times just to hear/see that beautiful sounding and looking Noble and Cooley. Fresh heads, flawless tuning. 👌

Good video! I recently experimented by waxing the batter edge of a birch snare (a Tama Silverstar) between head changes. I used high quality furniture wax in a small amount, applied with my index finger, and then carefully buffed to a gloss with a microfiber cloth. The danger in this is pulling splinters out of the bearing edge, which would damage the ability to tune the drum. But this was an extra snare to me, so I was willing to take a chance with it. I was quite surprised at the improvement in the sound of the drum after I did this. The drum acquired an authoritative "bark" and tone it had not had before. I assume this is due to the lowered friction between the edge and head allowing more head movement when the head is struck. I am planning on doing this to all the drums in this kit when I change heads in the near future. Decades ago, I started wiping the bearing edge of my metal snares with WD-40 before putting on a head, to let the head slide over the edge. I would have used snake oil if I could have found some! But I think the WD-40 helped the head glide over the edge. So I still use it, albeit randomly. As far as cracking glue is concerned, 40 years ago there seemed to be much more epoxy in the counterhoop channel and it was not consistently applied. I would tension a head a good bit above the desired tension, let the drum sit for a day or two, and often I'd hear a loud "crack" and find the head detuned and have to tension it up again. But I don't have that happen ever nowadays, with any brand of head. So I seat the head, go a turn and a half or so with two keys (if I can find two), and fine tune from there, and I'm good. At least to my failing hearing!

I forgot all about this. I used to when I was young but that last 15 times or so changing heads I have not done it and I have not had a problem.

For me, seating the drum head means putting on a new head and using a cross-pattern tuning method to ensure everything is relatively close tension wise. After I get it around where I want, I'll play them for a bit, but then switch to a different tuning method (clockwise or counter clockwise, depending on how each lug sounds relative to one another) . I did used to press down on the heads about 5 years ago but I've stopped, i didn't notice any difference in sound and it would make the tuning the drum more difficult!

Evans specifically makes the whole seating issue relatively obsolete with the Level 360 concept - just one of the many things that makes them a great and innovative company.

Evans heads I’ve never had to break them in, but definitely Remo I do because they don’t seat Like the Evans

In my experience, i found that drumheads last longer and sound better without seating them. Yes, you do have to be re-tunning it on a constant basis but just for a couple of days, after that the head does sit perfectly, last longer in tune and offers extended life. Again, this is something that works for me, not making any law or statement around this topic. Great video as usual!

The drumheads we have today are so much better than years ago. You can just tune them up evenly and play. Usually, overnight some settling in may occur and small tweaks the next day along with some playing time will get the head seated properly.

I've always kneaded the collar of new heads before putting them on. Then again, I usually use Remo heads which are held on to the flesh hoop with only glue, so I've figured it's mainly cracking the glue at the junction, loosening the tension up a little which I suppose helps shorten the break-in time. I've found kneading the collar is almost necessary when using old heads that have sat in the same tuning for a long time, like reso heads on a house kit for example. If they don't seem to take a new (usually lower) tuning that well, taking the head off and massaging the collar will help it conform to the new tuning better.

After 40 years of playing I'd never seen anyone crack their collars until a youtube video a couple of years ago...was a bit puzzled by that. I do a mild CPR compression though--maybe for psychological reasons...I don't know. In any case, to my ears a new head doesn't usually sound the way I like it until it's been played on the drum for a few weeks...seems to have a bright "boingy" sound at first. Also, I finally figured out that my maple snare had uneven bearing edges as I was constantly having to tune one lug a lot tighter than the rest to get an even pitch. Funny how that never crossed my mind until taking the rims off and placing the shell on a granite counter top--shining a flashlight inside revealed a nice little "wave" in the edge. Yikes.

Another fantastic video! Becoming a patron soon!

Back in my Remo days I always use to 'seat' my heads (push out bubbles, tension very high, let sit over night, take head off next day, then tune like normal) because they would stretch and fall out of tune constantly if I didn't. After switching to Evans I have never had to do this once. With Evans I simply tune a fresh head to the spot I'm looking for and tweak it up one more time after a couple hours of playing and it's good to go for months. What ride are you playing in the beginning? It's got a similar sound to my Uptown Ride but a little more 'life' and a louder bell, I'd love to look into that cymbal more!

Videos are looking really nice lately! Nice a clear and maybe a little warmer? Seems to not have that "haze" they used to have. Of course great work on this topic as usual. Evans heads ftw. Perfect contact with bearing edge every time! (No I don't seat my head's just put them on, tune, play)

With the consistent quality of both heads and drums manufactured today I would think so long as your shell and edges are in the round and you tune sensibly (in whatever pattern you prefere), any benefit from seating techniques to be placebo effect as far as making a discernible difference in tuning, holding a tuning, or the resultant sounds. But drummers can be ritualistic and when this is part of your routine, I can't see any harm. I think seating the head was likely pretty important when everything was more organic - from individual drums with hand cut edges before the tools of today ensured accuracy, and when actual skins wereuniverally used as membranes.

I sometimes to do the overnight seating thing, but sometimes I just don't have the time. I honestly haven't noticed much of a difference, if any. If I don't, I just put the head on, tension it a little bit past where I'd normally have it, apply a little pressure with my palms, then tune. I don't really understand how the head is supposed to conform to the shell, because that assumes the point of contact is static for the life of the head, which it is not. The one thing that might make some sense to me is Bob Gatzen's trick of using a hair dryer to shrink the plastic into place. However, that seems risky - very likely one area will be shrunk more than another.

Another excellent, well presented video. See you in a week !

You don't need to apply pressure to any drum head, tune it up to taste or use a drum dial. Remo heads hug the shell 3:54 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-xy8kCKNKlyU.html Evans sit on top of the shell. If you want to especially for a bass drum, apply pressure to the hoop if you want but it's not necessary. Drums can get out of tune with temperature, time and transportation. A quick tune up with a drum dial before a show is a good thing.

With regards to waxing bearing edges; I've had drums where you could hear the head scraping across the edge as the tension rod was turned. Rubbing a candle (or some chapstick) over the bearing edge reduced the friction enough to allow for silent and smooth tuning. I don't do this as a general practice-only when the drum requests it.

I never stretch them out by pushing on them, or using any forced pressure. I just put them on as even as possible (and the rim as even AP), tune em up and play em. You'll have to tune em a few more times when new, but tuning is lickety-split for me, so no biggie. I like the idea of stretching them out more naturally vs forcing them and possibly stretching them unevenly.

My most used head on the batter side is Remo Emperors. Being two ply heads, they seem to fall in line quicker if I do the tensioning way beyond where I'll be playing that at thing when installing new ones.

This video made my mind wonder to the seating on the bearing edge. You almost never see an angle cut facing outward as the bearing edge, but wouldn't that logically guarantee the head seats properly because it would be inward of the head collar? Or really how much more of the head is even touching a rounded over edge at the tangent point vs and angled point?

I basically tighten it slightly tighter than I want then bring it back to desired tension. Never seen a benefit for mylar.

Ok, so I can stop ruining my heads by stomping on them :D

@Sounds Like A Drum my high school battery instructor used to crinkle the edge of the head to “stretch” it out before putting it on and actually stretching it (CPR style). He swore it made it tune up easier and stay in tune more. I didn’t really notice a difference but then again these were high tension drums (I saw him do this when we changed a set of quint tenor heads. Maybe they needed more stretching because they are high tension? Just my 2 cents.

I have an old set of Rogers and a pretty new set of Tama b/b's. I do use minor pressure only if I "detune" something prior to tuning it to a lower pitch than it was or just retuning. Other than that it never seemed necessary or logical to me, on either set or with any brand or style head.

Evans heads are the best. The 360 technology makes them have perfect full contact with the bearing edge all the way around. Easier to tune (no wrinkles) and widest tuning range as a result.

Cody, when you tune the "out of tune" I guess head, back up higher, than the actual pitch you are going for, would you reccomend turning all tuning rods the same amount for the head to realign itself even if it sounds wonky at first? Or would suggest to try to tune the head at a specific pitch regardless? My best guess is the first method since it would sound like it does for the reason of being out of alignment to begin with and then it will change pitch agter being left to sit overnight. Is that correct? All the best!

Cody has a cozy appearance in this video

Hi guys. Ive got a 60s round badge kit and the heads for snug. Would you recommend treating new heads any differently to get them to conform to the drum as I guess, fitting snug can lead to them not sitting totally flat? Maybe tuning them higher than desired and letting them sit as you mention in the video? Absolutely love your channel, I’m definitely notching up the hours watching all your vids!

I wonder what the drum head companies Evans, Remo, Aquarian etc have to say about these different seating methods. I would like to know if they think the CPR method is or isn't necessary to seat the drum heads properly.

I won't get in a dispute over what heads are better than the other competitors but I will say,regardless what drum company one may choose!!! Round shell,great bearing edges, well made hoops usually creates great Drum sound.Alot of people got this mindset that if you buy a mid level kit your throwing your money away. Now days there are drums being produced at very affordable prices that are built extraordinary well,great edges,and perfect round shells.The biggest problem that gets over looked is the hoops,not the heads.You get a drum with a bad hoop and HOUSTON YOU GOT A PROBLEM.!!! I bought a brand new Dynosonic.I could not get this beautiful crafted drum to toon right.Come to find out the reso hoop was bent just enough to cause major tunning issues.ALWAYS CHECK THE HOOPS, if everything else is up to par.As far as tunning drums,I have always just increased the tension on new heads about a half turn each.Let them set for a couple of days,retune and Presto they sound beautiful.

A little bit off topic here, Cody, what do you think which stick tips will ruin drum head easier:round or oval? Thanks

Should I seat my snare reso side? Or is it batter exclusively?

I lightly roll a tennis ball a few inches in from the hoop.

Seating drumheads by using hand pressure only damages the head and possibly the drum itself and the bearing edges. Once you pull the wrinkles out, it’s done. No other pressure needed

Might be crazy to try, but how about an episode that attempts to bring out dents in a head using a lighter or blow dryer?

Can you talk about tuning deep snares like tom? and which heads are best for that?

I used to always seat my drum heads. Then at some point after a number of years, I just kind of... Stopped. Don't know why. I feel like I actually get a better tone without doing it. Even on my old Ludwigs which definitely are not in round or have good bearing edges. Modern drum heads are made so well, there's no point.

It's sort of like "tilting" a pinball machine

Any interest in doing a video on working with mesh heads for a practice kit?

So what’s your take on the JAW bass drum running method? Not a lot of pressure, but definitely pressure on the head...

I tighten the heads until there is no "play", or crush space between the collar and the bearing edge. I like Remo, and they need a little time to accommodate to the bearing edge. From there I will deal with the pitch and feel.

Dont want to sound like a salesperson BUT haha - with Evans, there´s no need for that at all.

I like that you don't seat your heads. Thank you for not seating them. It's ridiculous IMO lol