Seb Takes On The Unrepeatable 9a's | Seb Bouin's Vintage Rock Tour Ep.4 

yeah but he shouldn't have skipped the 9a+ grade, that was a big mistake and doing so he lost all his credibility

Fred said the route has changed so it is now 9a hold breakage I think ( I’ve climbed a very little at les eaux claire it’s nails

@@8Hidan8 He didn't lose any credibility at all. What he did was brilliant and there is nothing more to say really.

@@matthewgallagher4913 that's history of climbing ,you can't deny it. He lost all his credibility and there is nothing more to say really.

@@8Hidan8 That's a great way to end any argument.

True 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣

hahahhaha, so trueeee...hahah

C'est clair, quel dommage, s'aurait été top d'avoir un peu sa vision des choses et son récit, mais je pense que Rhouling a été un peu échaudé des média grimpesques en général, donc bon s'exprimer sur un film où un grimpeur décote sa voie ça a pas du lui dire grand chose.

thought exactly the same, 7a boulder with mono in a cave. I doubt it :D

7a boulder = 8a

Yeah I lost my shit when that was said and then proceeded to do multiple nasty crimps, pinches and massive dynamic moves, and then a mono campus to top it off, all in a full roof hahahaha...

@@tutecalmesoui No...7A =7c at most. Looks more like 8A =V11+=8c=14b which matches better with overall 9A

@@terraflow__bryanburdo4547 the hardest boulder is 8c+ and the hardest route is 9c

Chipping can be artistic in the right situation. The Dark Art.

​@@terraflow__bryanburdo4547 Why not bolting some holds, like in a gym. And if route is repeated without them, remove them. Chipping is so egoistic and permanent.

Il s'est expliqué à ce sujet suite aux répétitions !

Il y a une interview qui vient de sortir sur une autre chaîne d'escalade française

I wonder if he took crap for chipping and washed his hands of climbing?

Oui monsieur :D

Tout a fait!

I really don't see why anyone cares if a literally blank piece of rock at a crag that wasn't some destination gets chipped. It hurts no one and nothing.

@@ohhhspanky We already bolt everything we can, I don't see how adding a couple lines at a cliff that is already established as a climbing cliff is an issue.

@@krakenattackin7617 The current ethics almost everywhere in the world is to not chip, and the reason is as such: just because it's too flat and featureless for you doesn't mean it can't be climbed by somebody stronger, or the next generation of climbers when they're 2-3 grades stronger than anybody is today. If we decide it's okay to chip, routes that could have been climbed without it will be destroyed before their time, and finding routes pushing the limits will become impossible. Chipping isn't something we should see as okay for the sport, even if you don't think it's a problem environmentally. With the advent of modern plastic holds, there's little reason to make your own problems from the rock. If you want to create so badly, do it in a less destructive fashion. Bolts are as minimal as it gets for protection, and most people don't notice them or know they exist if they're not climbers. Especially in areas with climbable rock, it's not ethical to chip new routes (or old ones for that matter). The ethics of climbing are to minimize impact, not to have no impact. Chipping is unnecessary, whereas bolts often are the only way to safely climb an area.

@@krakenattackin7617 if you can't climb it, you can't climb it.

@@andrewscott5059 I had the same question as to why it wasn't acceptable. I figured the ethical problems with chipping fell in the same category as people who believe you shouldn't climb anything that you cant protect with trad gear. Your explanation makes a lot of sense though and has helped me understand why chipping is a harmful practice. Thank you.

Heck yes!

Pre tied figure 8 to locking carabiner is my guess. It’s very safe just shouldn’t use it a lot cause your knot will never come undone, and puts wear on certain spots on the rope only. If you are worried use two biners for redundancy.

But bolting is okay?

Your dream came true, an interview was released on another french climbing channel

@@The0casanova0 I watched, and it was great! I had to laugh how soon it popped up! I have put up almost 1000 routes myself (no 9a's lol) and only two chipped holds, but I respect Fred's work, looks like some real beautiful and futuristic stuff, too bad the bad vibes turned him off.

Is it actually Seb's car?

That's what he has done. If you look closely, you can see there is a carabiner between the knot and the harness.

The translation is misleading. Seb said that each move would not be above 7A.

If you were to take each move separately, no one would be above Font 7A

Maybe those seem like 7A boulders when you have 8C strength ;)

Or 9b/+ strength... Yeah, a ton of 7a moves add up to a hell lot more than a 7a-boulder. Easy to understand. Admittedly, the transition on the roof mono looks really hard...

do you understand this was done in the 80's/90's and no one does it anymore? ..now, what? save the bees???

Yeah but we are judging the ethical decisions of someone in a totally different time period against the ethics of our time period. When Fred was climbing, manufacturing climbs was fairly common practice at the top of the grading scale. With the growth of climbing we have seen some things go by the wayside and be declared unethical, manufacturing climbs being one of them. I think that it is a great thing that we are growing as a community but why hate on people who were making the best decisions they knew how to make with the ethical standards and knowledge of their day. It doesnt make it right to chip holds and we certainly shouldn't be doing it now but we should extend some mercy to those who did these things simply based off the time period they lived in. They hadn't been taught better.

I wouldnt say gravest sin but people who say it wasnt a problem back then are wrong. In the excess Rouhling did it, it was quite the exception even as other top climbers as Menestrel did it on a lower level sometimes. Fred is a very creative person and he basically sculpted his own routes by working the rock. I dont think we should judge him for that. He created beautiful lines but I am glad this did not turn out to be trend . Otherwise a lot of rock walls and even big walls would imo be completely changed from their natural beauty.

​@@listrahtes how about bolting a couple of holds and not chipping the rock. why permanently altering a route. egoism, that is why.

I don’t think anyone disagrees with you, not even Fred himself (read the famous climbing world article about him).

Actually, I think you are wrong: www.grammarly.com/blog/apostrophe/ The plural of "a" is "a's". Thanks for trying to make the world a better place and thus obliging me to look this rule up.

@@Onmywayto8a Sorry, I'm still right. The title doesn't say "a's" it says "9a's". There's no danger of misreading it as "as" because of the "9" in front of it which makes clear that we're talking about the plural of "9a". Apostrophes for plurals are always wrong with the one exception: when there is danger of misreading, which is not the case with 9as. You also don't write "the 1980's" to take a grammarly example.

@@masterpropper2485 "the 1980s" is not a good example since it is not ending with a lowercase letter. If we are talking about bouldering grades, then yes, it should be "I sent three 8As yesterday". Apostrophes for plurals are always wrong with the one exception: when there is danger of misreading, which is not the case with 9as. > This is not true since the same rule applies for all lowercase letters. Example: "Notice all the w's in the sentence". There is not risk to misinterpret since there is no "ws" word in English. we're talking about the plural of "9a" > 9a is an acceptable word in the English language therefore the plural morpheme (mark) will be carried by the last compound. I am a linguist and during my studies, I have been told something that was very liberating (I used to be more conservative language-wise): there are two "right", what the linguists/specialists think and the common usage. If the vast majority of people use a rule a certain way, it can be considered as "right". This said, in both cases "9a's" is correct. Google "9a's" and "9as" and you will get your answer. when there is danger of misreading, which is not the case with 9as. > That is not true; if you present "9as" to a non-climber, they will read it as such.

@@Onmywayto8a I'm a linguist as well (nobody else would care). And I'm definitely not giving in to this, sorry. It doesn't matter if you know what 9a means or not, the correct plural is 9as and not 9a's. The rule of "common usage making wrongs to rights" (which mostly apllies to the English language) is something I absolutely try to refuse to accept, especially in our modern times of social media and messenger services where people (thanks to auto correct) write the craziest stuff...

@@masterpropper2485 I'm a linguist as well (nobody else would care) > I was almost sure you were :-) And I'm definitely not giving in to this, sorry. > You do not have to "give in". I gave you my arguments but you do not have to accept their validity. especially in our modern times of social media > I was referring to less deviant usage of the language. Just because many people write "there" instead of "their" does not mean they are right.

C’est le tour des falaises de France

Yea everybody knows that, thanks. With this tour, Seb is doing the historic routes of France, so he's obviously talking about the first FRENCH 9a.

Who cares? The rock was literally blank, this wasn't a popular destination crag at the time it was chipped.

@@krakenattackin7617 yeah let's let this one slip and next thing it's chipping holds at a popular crag, but kind of out the way from the main area you know? chipping is totally fine if it's away from popular areas.

Manufacturing routes (ie chipping, glueing, etc) was a common and totally acceptable ethic at the time this area was developed. It's obviously no longer acceptable. This wasn't stated explicitly in the film, but I think most viewers are probably aware of this. No one saw this clip and got inspired to go chip some new holds at their local crag...

@@nicwilliams9709 for all you know.

​@@krakenattackin7617 bolt some holds like in a gym. reversable.