So many questions for you guys, do you want dirt, how much is a resonable cost for dirt, any more resin ideas and what are all the film clips from (which judging by comments is not my greatest idea but can't win em all haha)........can you guess the main channel project to????????
Colin you should put your model of the garage behind the window embedded into the rock and have mini colin building it. So a mini model of you building the garage in the wall behind the window in the garage. Maybe you could even box the window in and have it temperature controlled so u dont have to deal with condensation. That way when people go into the garage they can look thru the window and get a feeling of how much work you put into all of this
The year is 2055. The town of Stamford is home to the most extensive tunnel network outside of London. Nearly all residents had moved underground by the 2030s after rapid expansion of the Colin FurzeTM underground living system. In the late 2020s Colin decided to extend his bunker system to the local corner shop. Seeing what a good idea this was, all the residents demanded that they too should be able to pop to the shop for a newspaper and curlywurly without stepping outside into the grim British weather. The town of Stamford is now the largest importer of steel in the western world.
Great job, Colin! I’m a plumber/pipefitter/ gasfitter and I take my hat off to you, Sir. You’re an inspiration to persevere when chasing a dream. Thank you.
Run to Jesus! Trust in Jesus Christ, not antichrist. Amen! + If you have defected from God then read these Scriptures: (Lost Sheep, Luke 15:1-7 - Lost Coin, 15:8-10 - Lost Son, 15:11-32 - Rich Man and Lazarus, 16:19-31) Jesus is calling you back home, read His word, believe and repent. Saved by grace alone, through faith alone, in Christ alone! + The world is racing toward "AMAGEDDON" !!! And people need to get right with the Lord! If you have not read the books of (Daniel chapters 7-12), (Ezekiel chapters 37-39) (Matthew chapters 24:1-51 + 25:1-30), (1 Thessalonians chapters 1-5), (2 Thessalonians chapters1-3) and (Revelation chapters 6-19), now would be a good time. They will explain a lot about what is going on right now! These books will cover the "Wars" about to come, the catching up / the blessed hope, World judgement, hence the Tribulation and the Great Tribulation! These books will also be the most ominous and scary for the unbelievers and the most exciting and uplifting for those who believe in Jesus Christ as Lord and Savior!... + (Romans 10:13 > For whosoever shall call upon the name of the Lord shall be saved.) + It is my hope and prayer that people would repent and believe on the Lord Jesus Christ before all these things take place, because it is going to be very, very scary if you do not and you decide to wait and see what happens. + May the Lord encourage you to seek the truth, in Jesus' name. Amen and Amen. + (Acts 17:29 > Forasmuch then as we are the offspring of God, we ought not to think that the Godhead is like unto gold, or silver, or stone, graven by art and man's device.) + (Romans 1:20 > For the invisible things of him from the creation of the world are clearly seen, being understood by the things that are made, even his eternal power and Godhead; so that they are without excuse.) + (Colossians 2:9 > For in him dwelleth all the fulness of the Godhead bodily.) + Jesus is God, (Father, Word, and Holy Ghost), (1 John 5:7) 3 in 1 Amen Amen Amen
I received two letters from the council within two weeks. One of my neighbours tried to have a garage (that was built more than ten years ago without permission) approved to remain in situ. The later letter states that the garage cannot be used and must be demolished...
@@Nemozoli Trust in Jesus Christ, not antichrist. + I hope and pray that folks change their view and invite the Lord Jesus Christ into your life to rule and reign. + (Proverbs 16:18 > Pride goeth before destruction, and an haughty spirit before a fall.) + Satan is referred to as the prince of the power of the air for good reason, he owns the airwaves on planet earth and is the god (little "g") of this world. It is my hope and prayer that you choose the God (Big "G") of heaven who controls the destiny of your eternal soul. + (Matthew 10:28 > And fear not them which kill the body, but are not able to kill the soul: but rather fear him which is able to destroy both soul and body in hell.) + (Proverbs 9:10 > The fear of the LORD is the beginning of wisdom: and the knowledge of the holy is understanding.) + (2 Corinthians 4:3-4 > [3]-But if our gospel be hid, it is hid to them that are lost: [4]-In whom the god of this world hath blinded the minds of them which believe not, lest the light of the glorious gospel of Christ, who is the image of God, should shine unto them.) + (Romans 10:9-10 > [9]-That if thou shalt confess with thy mouth the Lord Jesus, and shalt believe in thine heart that God hath raised him from the dead, thou shalt be saved. [10]-For with the heart man believeth unto righteousness; and with the mouth confession is made unto salvation.) + (Romans 10:13 > For whosoever shall call upon the name of the Lord shall be saved.) + (Ephesians 2:8-9 > [8]-For by grace are ye saved through faith; and that not of yourselves: it is the gift of God: [9]-Not of works, lest any man should boast.) + (Revelation 3:20 > Behold, I stand at the door, and knock: if any man hear my voice, and open the door, I will come in to him, and sup with him, and he with me.) + Is Jesus knocking at the door of your heart? Is this your opportunity for eternal salvation? If it is, I hope and pray that you open the door and invite Him in to your heart and life, in Jesus' name. Amen! + All glory be to God
Not gonna lie Colin, the rock window is a bad idea. I work with resin, using that much clear resin... Will cost you a fortune 50k+ probably because that's 100+ litres
I got 1 bit of robocop, running man was obvious, didn't get Commando until I saw your post, didn't get the rest at all... damnit, now I need to rewatch this one for the THIRD time....( which is ok, cause it's good... )
Said it before, I'll say it again, I love the 2nd channel. It's like chatting with your mate down the pub about the latest project he's working on in the garage. The simple fact the Furze community are having an actual impact on the project by offering advice etc, makes it all the more engaging.
Before you do anything to the rock face, I would take a 3D colour scan of the surface. If things don’t work out, you might still be able to make a 3D replica of the surface at some point in the future and just attach that to the wall of the cavern. Not the same as the actual thing, but better than nothing if things don’t work out.
@@2MuchColinFurze If you want to make it extra fancy you could consider printing it in parts and create a moving sculpture. Some stone could open or slide away to show a hidden scene. Mini Colin digging perhaps? Lighting from the cracks with LED stripes? Many things could be done if you 3D print a rock wall replica.
Was thinking along same lines, while the rock face via window would be cool it's going to be a maintenance headache. I'd settle for a full wall mural and be happy.
As cool as it would be to have the real rock wall, unshielded it can slowly erode or shift without the tunnel pushing back. If all else fails, a sculpted concrete facade could work.
@@2MuchColinFurze You don't really need a 3D printer. Just get a scan, make it out of foam, then have a miniature YTer do the model of it. They'd love the chance to do something big scale like this. They all do, as it's a challenge they don't usually hit, being that they work scale.
Regarding the soil, if you disinfected it, say put it in a hot oven for an hour, then sold it as "Colin Pedological units" rather than soil, there should be no problem.
I was a scenic artist in Hollywood for 20 years. I could absolutely recreate that exact rock wall with plaster so well that you could not tell the difference between mine and God's. That being said, seal it off and recreate the rock wall in the sealed area, thus producing the exact same effect without ANY of the downsides. Give it a noodle Colin.
I commented elsewhere, yes this. You can get a detailed 3d scan of the surface, and get that 5-axis cnc'd in a light weight material (polystyrene, plaster, medium density foamed plastic etc)
Recreating it removes the whole purpose of having a window there. Then he can spare the hussle and simply put it inside the box. The main point is having a view at the real "outdoor"
He has mentioned in the past that he is following all permit and procedures while doing this process, If you watch the Part 2 vid he has several officials out testing the soil strength and making changes to his structural plans
He does have a permit for the tunnel. However he applied for it AFTER he started excavating it. And it was approved off the strenght that he already had a permit for the bunker or store under his shed in the back of the yard.
Colin, there is no reason for you to apologize for the length of your videos. Sir, I could watch a livestream of you working on a project. You could have multiple camera angles and I would watch it. Your videos are informative and entertaining, they are something I look forward to every time I see the thumbnail. Thank you, sir, for you being you.
Trust in Jesus Christ, not antichrist. + I hope and pray that folks change their view and invite the Lord Jesus Christ into your life to rule and reign. + (Proverbs 16:18 > Pride goeth before destruction, and an haughty spirit before a fall.) + Satan is referred to as the prince of the power of the air for good reason, he owns the airwaves on planet earth and is the god (little "g") of this world. It is my hope and prayer that you choose the God (Big "G") of heaven who controls the destiny of your eternal soul. + (Matthew 10:28 > And fear not them which kill the body, but are not able to kill the soul: but rather fear him which is able to destroy both soul and body in hell.) + (Proverbs 9:10 > The fear of the LORD is the beginning of wisdom: and the knowledge of the holy is understanding.) + (2 Corinthians 4:3-4 > [3]-But if our gospel be hid, it is hid to them that are lost: [4]-In whom the god of this world hath blinded the minds of them which believe not, lest the light of the glorious gospel of Christ, who is the image of God, should shine unto them.) + (Romans 10:9-10 > [9]-That if thou shalt confess with thy mouth the Lord Jesus, and shalt believe in thine heart that God hath raised him from the dead, thou shalt be saved. [10]-For with the heart man believeth unto righteousness; and with the mouth confession is made unto salvation.) + (Romans 10:13 > For whosoever shall call upon the name of the Lord shall be saved.) + (Ephesians 2:8-9 > [8]-For by grace are ye saved through faith; and that not of yourselves: it is the gift of God: [9]-Not of works, lest any man should boast.) + (Revelation 3:20 > Behold, I stand at the door, and knock: if any man hear my voice, and open the door, I will come in to him, and sup with him, and he with me.) + Is Jesus knocking at the door of your heart? Is this your opportunity for eternal salvation? If it is, I hope and pray that you open the door and invite Him in to your heart and life, in Jesus' name. Amen! + All glory be to God
Condensation occurs when warm, humid air meets a cold surface. So if you intend to heat the bunker then condensation may occur on the inside of the window if it's single glazing. If you heat the air outside of the window with a lamp it will cause more water to evaporate from the rock, which may encourage condensation of the hard-to-access outside of the window if the temperature within the bunker drops.
Just a suggestion .... install two or three sump pumps for removing excess water. Like all equipment, a pump will eventually fail. Having more than one pump will keep your tunnel from flooding.
I would have a gas powered high gpm pump for emergency. gpm = gallons per minute. 100-500gpm wouldn't be bad. I've been on a sinking ship with one and it kept the water below the bilge board. The inside was dry as long as I had gas.
Like all things in life, when it fails, the pump will fail under load. In other words the pump will fail when it's hammering down with rain and has needed to be running continuously for some unforeseen reason. 2 pumps are a very wise precaution IMO.
Window wipers. Specifically old delorean window wipers for the window. Have it set up so when the lights come on then the condensation gets cleared away with a few seconds of wiping. It's a fun bodge job that solves the problem and suits the project
@kungfuhskull I'm sure you could easily engineer a removable panel in the Wall that gives you access to the wiper motors and let's you pull the wipers out too.
Have you tried describing what you're doing differently? Might get people to think it's less crazy. Maybe like this? Bunker in my back garden => Detached basement Tunnel under the house => Underground hallway
A heat lamp wont stop condensation, it increases the air's capacity to hold moisture but once its at 100% again from moisture coming in the condensation will come back. Pair it with a vent fan to get moisture out and you'll be good.
Have some moisture related experience and after two beers I'm the expert :) . @julianarmeni6497 comment here is spot on also fellow @JamesRWard-gq4nq is sort of correct. Solution first: Use camera and frame TV to show rock behind. Reasoning: Temp difference and moisture content. Think of it as "sauna experiment", summer will not be the problem. Winter in other hand is different matter. You will have internal or external condensation on window anyhow because of delta-Temp and moisture content. Rain and cold will condensate moisture. You can elliminate internal condensation by internal ventilation if temp is 20-24C, moisture up to 60% and airflow 50% in hour. External in other hand you cant control = winter condensation guaranteed if outside temp is 2C and moisture 98% (to avoid that you will need to heat up limestone wall). What I can also tell you that limestone will "sweat" in winter and over time it will get ugly (dark brown iron drips). So, my second solution is to have massive 3-layer class window that you can open and clean if needed. Preferred solution is to shut it tight, drop wide angle replaceable camera in and have frame TV to share nice rock wall ... no huge d-Temp and minimum condensation only. Price vise probably the same or cheaper. Experience: live in north where winter temp -20C is norm. Autumn and spring rainy seasons bring lots of moisture and condensation... with shitty ventilation windows are always moist. Limestone here is building material and sauna hose drying will take 3 days.
it could stop condensation in the scenario where it's a heat differential causing it to be a thing. But then again, we're underground, and it's cold underground so lol.
Its a bit late, but I am a Volcanologist in England - I ship rocks around the country all the time especially to Edinburgh and Geneva. Within the UK I've never had to sign off on anything special just in a box wrapped safely. Out of country I've had to declare it but mainly they're making sure its A. Not dangerous (Radioactive, hazardous) B. Not valuable (Gold, silver)
@@WorBluxthe rock can have those exact same issues, so I don’t see why they would see a difference. I would think if they had an issue with the soil, then they’d have the same issue with the rocks and the chap above would have had the same issues.
What about making the window into an aquarium? If you put water in to the water tank, the water would naturally prevent condensation, plus it would be pretty cool to see fish swimming in front of the rock face. You could also do something with the filtration, and everything as well.
1. moisture and steel is not a great combo 2. the rock would quickly drain the water. remember that is how they are currently draining the water from the house runoff
@@MichaelThe-Pyro Ummm, I think you misunderstood, I said 'AQUARIUM', which means that it would be a container of water that holds fish. The water would not be in direct contact with the steel or rockface.
Architect here, very simple. You’re going to rout a channel into the rock which you can embed a gasketed brake metal edge so you won’t get any residual moisture coming from above, below, and through the sides of the assembly. Next, you are going to drill vertically from above 3” cores every 24” o.c. from above, line them with perf pipe, and connect to a continuous pipe below the brake metal gasket seal. This will take and moisture escaping through the rock and intercept before it hits the rock face. Next, you’ll cover the entire rock face within the gasketed area with an elastomeric concrete/masonry sealer this will keep and residual moisture from escaping through the rock face. Last, you will put a removable tray in the steel wall below the window where you can a dessicant filter, this will absorb any moisture that enters the space Last but not least, for comedic effect, you can add windshield wipers to the exterior of the window
@@leocurious9919 indefinitely, humidity is constantly changing, rather than removing all moisture which would cause condensation to accumulate on the inside, it basically provides a reservoir for it to be stored and equalize. We are talking a minimal amount of humidity. There is weep piping behind, sealed gaskets all around, and a fluid applied vapor barrier on the rock itself. We are literally talking about mitigating what’s in the air cavity and allowing it to breathe with the internal space of the garage. Seriously, if you are not a professional and don’t understand how this kind of system works, just keep to yourself and move along.
Hi Colin, Myself and 2 friends have built a planetarium which took us over 3 years to build. We kept the planning office informed at every step. They did the final inspection in August 2023 and passed it off. We got the completion certificate this week. They moved at their own pace.
In regards to car fumes, please note that carbon monoxide is actually slightly lighter than air and diffuses fairly evenly through the room. You will likely want some active extraction rather than just a floor vent.
The wiring regulation allows the use of three core flex for a ring main it's perfectly acceptable and 1.5 millimetre is also acceptable so long as it's covered by a 16 or 20 amp circuit breaker.
It looks like h07 flex which 1.5mm will take about 20amps as a radial so as a ring wouldn't be an issue. Prob still best protecting it with a 20a breaker which will still be more than enough for a kettle
@@docziszilard200 dunno the UK regulations, but remember why are those in place: overheating risk. These cables are not inside mortar, they exchange heat differently. This 1.5mil is ok for 16 amps for in-air applications even in my local code, which does not allow ring mains. And ring mains were allowed in UK specifically to allow for thinner wires (due to ww2 related shortages)
30 minutes wasn't enough... I could listen to talk about the tunnel all day, I can't wait for it to be comete to binge it all! By far you are one of my favorite channels on RU-vid!
It's a sign of a really good engineer, and really just solid person. Anyone who likes to be wrong and learn new things is a joy to work with. Working with humble folks is great.
My impression of British town council/bureaucracy has been derived mostly from The Hitchhiker's Guide to the Galaxy. I envision it all to operate like the Vogons. I'm happy to hear that you live in a place where that is not the case, and they have generally been cool about it all. This is the best long form build series on the 'net! Keep Digging!
better than our planning department which says a different thing each time they come on site, and are as helpful as a porcupine in a room of balloons. I call them the "unplanning department".
My impression is that while they have a lot of regulations like we do, their municipal councils are a lot more open to letting you do things of your own plans by just asking, and then they give permission. Where here we end up with a lot of Karens in government. My dad had to sue his city to let him put a drain in his garage floor.
@@captainobvious9188 unfortunately, unlike a building warrent, which at least has standards to follow, planning consent is subjective, and sometimes planners forget they are public servants. They like to come up with "required improvements" to your design which have the sole purpose of increasing the cost or changing it or adding restrictions so it becomes something you never wanted to build in the first place. If you have a helpful person you are indeed fortunate.
Hi Colin, I have a suggestion that could be something of interest. Have you considered using EGLAS? It’s a type of glass that can be electrically heated thanks to a metal oxide coating. When electricity is applied, it emits infrared heat, transforming the glass into a radiant heating source. This technology prevents condensation on the glass surfaces and also heats the room. I don't know how expensive it is, but maybe something worth looking into.
Here's a fairly simple idea that might solve the window / rock face moisture issues - Seal that area off and install a huge window as planned but have the ventilation system go from the interior space into that small area between the window and rock face first, and then vent outside from there. That way the warm dry air from inside that you're already venting out will help dry out that space. You could maybe even install some type of one way air valve so the moist air from the damp area can never backflow into the interior space.
Hi Colin, for your rock wall problem, there is a preservation technique used on the Swedish ship they pulled out called the Vasa, it was sprayed with something similar to glycerine which creates a barrier to protect it/coat it. it should help with your moisture/permeation problem.
Maybe late, but for the feature wall. You maybe box it up. 1.Drive steel sheets from 4 sides from the inside going out. 2. Then one from top down from the outside. You boxed it, from the sipping elements. That part will eventually dry up, i guess. Its crazy but it cant be more than what you did. But you won't need to drive too far into the wall with the sheets to make it easier.
Colin, for ventilation, I'd suggest installing a small-medium sized preasure regulated industrial blower to provide constant overpreassure ventilation of the whole bunker and hallway so that all exhaust fumes from the garage will only ever get pushed out through the car elevator hatch or exhaust vents, just like how the French designed the Maginot line ventilation. (And how the Swedish cold war defense command bunkers and costal artillery fortresses provided CBRN protection.)
Don't use float switches, use ultrasonic tank level sensors, then you can calibrate it to turn on at a set percentage of a sump being filled rather than being limited to the size of the and height of the switch. Secondly if your going to use a sump pump, you will need a sump with enough capacity always filled that way your pump can be primed and fill the hose/piping with enough liquid that the pump doesn't run dry and the liquid runs back down into the sump. Alternatively you could look at a lift pump in stead that way you wont have to worry about priming the unit.
I'd pay 20 USD for a jar. I want a little wall shelf with a jar and a 1/10 scale delorean and the blueprint poster on the wall behind it. Lol, I kinda feel emotionally invested in this project at this point. I've seen every single episode. And I think you deserve kickback and recognition.
Same thoughts exactly. $20 seems reasonable considering the work they would need to put it. Maybe even REQUIRING it to be a package deal with the blueprints etc. To make it a bit easier to deal with rather than piecing each order together. Can't imagine someone wants dirt but no blueprints lol
Same thoughts exactly. $20 seems reasonable considering the work they would need to put it. Maybe even REQUIRING it to be a package deal with the blueprints etc. To make it a bit easier to deal with rather than piecing each order together. Can't imagine someone wants dirt but no blueprints lol
To help prevent moisture and eventually mold buildup, coating the rock face with a sealant like a thick coat of spray epoxy would help a lot. A combination of cooling and that vibrating tool to clear the bubbles may help with the epoxy filling afterwards (fill by multiple layers obviously). The complication with a second pane and ventilation is that mold will inevitably build up, unless you have a complicated closed system of ventilation and dehumidifiers that drains the water away somehow. Alternatively, maybe see how far you can get by power washing the clay away until there's just bare rock (to clear off organic materials that microbes can feed off of). Dig a little drainage ditch and use a sump-pump to remove water while cleaning. Preserving that surface will be far less complicated, and maybe look nicer too!
You know colin? I think you misunderstand why we watch. We LOVE the process. The finished product is great and all, seeing the progress is awesome, but really we're here for the ride. We're here for the journey!
Really good on the city for not getting all butt hurt about you not asking first and torching the project for something that has nothing to do with the merits. Props to your local council.
For real.. Can't even imagine the power hungry decisions my local city admin would go for in northern CA.. Colin, build as long as theyre approving stuff lol
@@liammhodonohuewe don’t really have HOA in the UK if you wanna mod a building the council is all that matters now granted there are some caviats such as the fact that people have time to take issue with it, neighbours and such mainly (if you’ve ever watched/read hitchikers guide to the galaxy that’s what the whole hyperspace bypass joke was in reference to) But ultimately if you get it by the council your good to go as it’s very rare for people to take issue with it We all don’t have constitutional rights as we lack a constitution
@@dontwannabeahero1570 I'm British I was imagining the trouble our friends over the pond would have to contend with if they lived in a HOA area.... and wanted their own secret bunker. They have right to bear arms and freedom of speech but HOA can force the sale of your home to recover fines for your lawn being untidy
@@liammhodonohue Beean there.. HOA's threatened to fine me for working on my vehicles inside my garage. I ended up working on a car for over a year with the garage door closed, until I finally moved out.
Best guess for the clips: Alan Todd - Prized pigeon returned to the UK - Channel 5 Delia Smith - How To Cook Alan Titchmarsh - Ground Force (or Love Your Garden) Robocop The Running Man Grand National Commando Lock Stock and Two Smoking Barrels
What's really disappointing is when you get to the end of these videos and think 'Damn, it's going to be a month or so before the next one!' Superb, and so very well made. 👍
Colin for corrosion prevention on the internal surface use ACF50... it was developed for aircraft spaceframes and none conductive , very good stuff 👍..... keep up the top work
I can't believe how fascinated I am by all the behind the scenes stuff! I love all the notes about council interactions and the drawings and mould on plywood. I must be getting old, because I can't get enough of it :)
You're very lucky to have a council planning committee formed of normal people rather than the pencil pushing jobsworth scum we have in SW London. Even the most boring works are arduous and painful to get approval for and they can decide unilaterally that your house has a special "listed but not listed" status (effectively a free licence to reject all applications) while adjoined properties even with shared walls do not.
Suggestion for keeping the exposed rock wall dry. Use a positive pressure ventilation system to keep the airflow moving, with vents at the top for the moist air to be expelled through. The air being pushed into the space by the fan should be dry, but won’t need to be bone dry. The continuous air movement is what dries the area, (very loosely) like washing on the clothesline on a windy day.
@@techheck3358 I used to work in a shop that (amonng other things) did a lot of parcel shipping and because we were near the University, we'd have a lot of students sending their belongings home at the end of the year. Australia had a "Shoe declaration form" to prevent soil contamination
@@techheck3358 my thoughts, too. Even in the US, taking fresh fruits and plant cuttings to and from Hawaii is illegal because of agricultural pest problems.
They are curved and quite small, this would not look very nice and be a nightmare to mount. But there are probably companies producing bigger flat glass panels with this tech.
For the exposed earth you can use a clear coat masonry sealer. You would need to spray it on. Probably use an hvlp (high volume low pressure) sprayer. And it would need to be several coats thick. Then you can but the frame up to it. You’d have to make some dance cuts to make the metal kiss the earth properly. With enough clear coats it should also help to keep it stable. If you want to have a rough texture you can add an anti slip powder to the last coat. I hope this helps. Love the stuff you do!
Suggestion for your stone wall: Completely seal off the interior (where your car is) from the exterior (where the stone wall is). Then make two separate ventilation systems: 1 for the interior going up and towards the outside, and 1 for the exterior going up and towards the outside, too, but they don't mix. This way moisture won't get from the stone wall to the interior and also there won't be condensation on the glass window.
Agreed, just a very low flow, could even be triggered with a humidity sensor like the ones in your shower. And of course make the glass removable with nice industrial looking glazing beads on the inside and a good rubber gasket around should isolate it properly and give you access to the LEDs and exterior ventilation system on the rare occasions you need it.
As may have been mentioned, moisture will only condense on surfaces that are COLDER than the air it comes from. So if you tunnel wall and rockface window glass is WARMER than that air. So for example double glazing will allow the outside air to equalise the glass its in contact with so condensation won't happen there. If you then keep the inside smidgeon warmer than your soil temperature, then you won't get any condensation there either. Good luck!
If you do decide to do lighting or heat lamps on the other side of the glass, do yourself a favor and plan for how you are going to replace them when they inevitably fail. You could do a hatch. That way, you can use a gasket to seal back around it, hopefully keep the mositure out.
"I didn't get permission because it's a secret tunnel," he says as he broadcasts his plans to 1 million subscribers. Lol, you do you, Colin. Love the update, as always! Can't wait to see the garage when she's ready!
As a FedEx UK employee there should be no problem in shipping your rocks. As long as they're packed in the container and a box with adequate packaging you shouldn't have a problem. As I don't deal with international shipments I can't speak on this. Hope to see your rocks flying through the warehouse at some point in the near future 🤞
It isn't a packing issue it's a microbe issue. Soil contains billions of microorganisms existing in a delicate balance specific to it's location and you don't want to introduce non-native soil that can change that balance. Even though it isn't going to be dumped in people's yards (probably) it would have to go through a sterilization and certification process to make sure there are no pathogens that could negatively impact local plant and animal life.
@@euskryhtbnfvse4i7ehs4hnvf Interesting...it might depend on where it was going, I'm really only up on US regulations. Just a rock all by itself would be okay, if it has been completely cleaned of soil so a rock in resin would be fine. Soil in resin I think would still require permits and sterilization at a US customs facility at which point it is going to cost far more than anyone is willing to pay for it.
For the rock face - either just seal the rock and area with resin or some clear stabilizing sealer - don't fill the whole void with resin. Or leave it exposed and let it condense. There are plenty of tunnels / dams that you can tour that manage the water, and seeing the natural process is part of the fun.
With the rock face. Step 1. Create a temporary housing Step 2. Fill with a mold (silicon) Step 3. Remove from wall now you have a mold. Step 4. Fill mold with resin try and get bubbles out away from the wall in the mold. Step 5. Slot resin mold created into pre-built housing. Step 6. Frame with silicon/caulk and frame with nice wooden framing. This way you have a perfect mold that will slot into the wall, you'll have the entire wall sealed and should hopefully prevent any mildew. Hope this helps.
Possibly, the other way around that would be to infill the concrete first, leaving a suitable "port hole" which could be then filled with resin using a frame work to seal said "port hole" 🤔 But again, with that, you would need to consider the structural integrity above the resin and ensure that will be solid without too much reliance on the resin. The other thing to consider, is any shift in either substance (if not joined properly) could cause major issues down the line
The problem of it being a massive epoxy pour remains, it'll be almost impossible to control the heat and stop it cracking. Assuming you've somehow managed not to have it destroy itself in curing you've still got to manoeuvre a massive, heavy slab of relatively brittle material into a place where it'll only fit in a specific orientation which likely includes irregular shapes that can't simply slide in.
You know, if you keep having trouble with rust on the main steel structure, you could always chuck in a few galvanic/sacrificial anodes. They will rust away and keep the steel rust-free mostly. Only problem is that you have to replace them every now and then.
I think the best way to deal with the visible surface bit is to use model glue first, spray it allllllllll over it, do a thin layer of resin second, then a third layer, and so on, remove excess to have a flat face, and finally smooth and make see-through. I think this is your best bet because each layer has the problem of heat and bubbles, but in a thin layer and with you going over it with a heat gun, it should be clear and smooth at the end. If you also did too much resin all at once, the heat will warp it and make it wavey even if you did it against a surface. The glue at the start idea is from seeing videos from miniature model builders that use it on real dirt, rocks, sand, and grass. They spray the glue on and let it absorb into the dirt which makes it solid. I figured you'd want this since you don't want to remove all the dirt from the surface before doing resin. When you do many layers while being careful to not leave bubbles, you will get a bumpy surface which you can then smooth into a flat surface. This prevents the warping/wavey problem. You should absolutely test this on another area that you don't care about, maybe a wall you plan to remove just so you can make sure it gives the result you want before messing up the real wall.
The worry about people not being able to see your vision is definitely well placed. You can’t expect a lot of people, especially those in a more corporate position to fully visualize and understand the finished product of something creative. A lot of creative works like films and such suffer from that phenomenon. Glad you were able to circumvent that as best as you could. The garage is going to be awesome
I'm not sure on this idea but, to fix your window solution. Take a picture of the wall you like the most and have it enlarged to cover or wrap the whole wall
Idea for the rock face! Long glass light prism, like they use on boats. Solar extraction fan to keep the wall dry, access from the top to clean window. The natural light filtering down the wall will give the room more depth and handy having natural light in a power outage. Love ya work Collin, 53 used to dig tunnels in my teens with the local kids, then the parents would find out and cave them in, probably why I’m still alive.
To keep sight glasses in autoclaves, tanks etc. clear of steam or condensation, nearly invisible electrical traces are used, which can heat the glass to clear it up quickly when needed. That might be a solution for the window without the need to keep the entire area dry/ventilated always. I do not however know if it feasible for multiple square meters of window.
For the rock window, before you dig out that section of the room, pre-dig a void 1 meter or so further behind where the rock wall is supposed to be and back fill it with concrete to create a buried concrete wall in the ground. Then when you excavate the room, stop digging 1 meter from that concrete wall, and you'll have a 1 meter thick section of rock face that is still in it's true state, but with a concrete wall hiding behind it. You can then carefully dig above, below, and on the sides of the rock wall and encase that in concrete too, leaving a 1 meter thick section of rockwall that is boxed in on 5 sides with concrete creating sort of a rock wall diorama.
It sounds like a great idea. Was also thinking why not also pre dig out the sides as well, and have them connected to the main structure with rebar. It won’t matter if the concrete sides are not covered by dirt.
Also, you could commemorate your efforts, celebrate them, by placing shovels, tools, laminated copies of the tunnel plans, etc. between the rock face and the glass or polycarbonate, maybe a short note, started this date, finished to this point this date, etc. other laminated photos, etc., as a display case type of look to it, a monument to your efforts! LOL! A secret archive of it all!
Window Solutions: 1. You could fit a double or triple glazed panel, and to deal with the condensation issue, you could furze up a wiper track that cleans the glass on the rock side. 2. You could pour a concrete opening and fit a tilt and then upvc Window. You could cover the upvc frame and handle so it just looks like a glass panel, but then remove it it open the window to clean the rock face side. As a family we are loving this project, and followed it from day one.
Colin, nice to see you did actually take action on my suggestion to offer the dirt to your fans! Unfortunately I can not come to pick some up and would love to add some to my collection of soil and stones from all around the world. I even have soil from the other side of the planet (Australia) it’s cool to be able to hold earth in the hand when looking at the map with coordinates where it is actually from! I love your digging projects and the other cool stuff you come up with👍
Rock window solutions: 1. Fake it: make an impression of the face you want. Make a mold. Paint it up. hang it or place it in a recess. (this is the easiest solution. It allows you to seal space and compromise nothing.) 2. Plan for a vent/access: moisture is going to be a large enough issue. So instead of trying to seal everything off perfectly. Just throw the glass up. As things heat up and cool down the air and water will need somewhere to go so vent it. This will cause some grossness on the rock side of the widow. So you just need to access that space so you can clean it. Doesn't need to be big. Just enough to get back there. And you will need a way to access the lights anyway in case a bulb goes out. two birds and whatnot. 3. Windows that swing in: As in #2 just stop trying to fight it. instead, work with a solution that makes it easy to maintain. Windows that swing in will provide that. ggwp
Just fake it with a big screen, you could than switch it to whatever you want. I am sure there is some tricks you could use to make it really convincing I could see some really cool views like a view of earth from the moon.
Yeah, I think faking it (with a mold or a 3D scan) is about the only way that's really going to last a while without becoming a mess. That's what I'd suggest.
This is what I was thinking. Making a fibreglass mould of the wall and colour it up like the copies of the prehistoric caves in France. Not really real but no issues with damp
Hello Colin, I'm an Engineering-Graphic and -Design teacher and I love your videos. And I would love to see more of your CAD drawings for the projects you make. Kind regards Willem.
Something I've seen builders in Spain do is make a feature wall of a stone wall by exposing a large irregular patch of the stone and plastering the rest around it. They spray coat the exposed stone with some sort of resin/varnish to protect it and stop moisture coming in through any gaps in it. So possibly that might be an option for the stone wall? Spray seal it with resin rather than encasing it, then a window on your interior wall.
Most likely it won't be enough just due to the nature of the soil which, unlike brick or stone walls, has irregular gaps everywhere and secondly I have a suspicion water permeates this soil easier than brick walls or stone walls.
I'm wondering if there's a way to take an intact slice of the rock face, maybe using resin to keep it stable. You then remove the slice, build a recess in the same fashion as the rest of the construction, reinsert the slice, remove the stabiliser and put a plate of glass over it. It could be vented into the room then to cut out condensation.
I think with 'rock vase' there is no need to come up with anything complicated, concrete around the window on all sides, put lighting and an ordinary double-glazed window. I don't think there will be a lot of condensation (only in autumn and spring, and even then not much as you already observed) - you will always have time to roll it up in epoxy resin!
For the interior rust issue… Boeshield T-9 works very good, albeit a bit pricey. I used this product on unpainted cast iron surfaces for woodworking equipment and have yet to see any rust. It doesn’t discolor the metal , but does add a slightly waxy surface. I started using this while living in western Washington state, which is a very similar climate/weather as the UK with lost of humidity.
some of my favorite moments in your videos is when you just plainly state how things function, your thought process, and where things are headed. just interesting stuff.
I worked in an underground Power Station for 35 years, drainage was a big deal, you need a main and standby sump pump, operated by float switches with a high level alarm as well, ( 3 float switches), we tested the system weekly to make sure it was OK, switchung main and stanby duty at the same time. The pump discharge must have an air break so there is no risk of it syphoning back, Flygt or Weda pumps are decent quality.
Regarding the window, if you trybthe resin route, multiple pours could help with heat control, if youre using clear resin, the divide may not be visble, then heat guns or blowtorches can help get rid of the bubbles between pours
Preserve the rock face with a large format high res photo. Display it in a large lighted display box/window. Will look like the original. You can still correctly fill the wall with concrete and avoid the expense and possibility of future water / moisture infiltration.
Robert Moses would be proud of your dealings with city planning. Drive stakes, don't submit anything, overwhelm them with architectural schematics when they do, and let as many people as possible pay for it. Perfect!
If you do use a heat lamp of other light source for the rockface window, make sure you have some accessible panels where you can replace the bulbs. (Which will add to the complexity if you're trying to isolate the rock face.) Fascinating stuff.
the unsung hero of this whole journey is truely the vw transporter. btw if you are still looking for a 1/10 scale model of the delorean, there is a etsy shop that sells a delorean body for 1/10 scale remote controlled chassis.
Colin - I will come and make a super high resolution photograph of your rock wall. Then close up the wall and we install three flat panel ‘windows’ [LCD screens] and these windows can show the rock wall as preserved in our imagery. Furthermore at the flick of a switch the view can change to your virtual window to the world [or F1 or whatever]. No damp. No trouble. Ever. You are welcome 😜
This is possibly the next best option to a 3D model. You could rotate through all kinds of environments. Make it look like a giant in wall aquarium. Star fields. Anything 😆
And you could also use it as a drive-in movie theater screen that you could watch from the comfort of your DeLorean by just rotating the car ramp 90° toward that wall.
With that option how about: a) slowly flying through outer space, b) moving in the deep ocean c) view of the ground below as if from a massive airship...etc.! Awesome :)
I love this idea. But, why stop at still frame? Create the wall, then have an animation of Colin bursting through the other side with pick in hand and a mad look on his face? XD
For the window, a plate steel box like what you have been building might work - in the right order. If the depth of the feature wall is 1 - 2 foot or so, a box could be built around the feature in stages so that the finished project would eliminate all of the problems you mentioned in the video like humidity, weight, structural soundness, etc. It could even be left open without a window if it is completely encased in steel and concrete as moisture and gasses shouldn't be factors anymore. Dig around what you want to keep in stages, weld in plate steel sides, back fill with concrete. Start with the sides. When digging behind the feature, plywood could be used to keep it in place to drive steel plate under it (if you want/need to). Then do the back and finish with the top. This idea is like carving out a cake to keep a slice from the very center without moving or disturbing it. Also, if I had a turntable garage like that, I would want to be able to wash my car and do maintenance on it inside which requires a separate drain for waste. This would mean you couldn't install the sump pump in that area. Keeping the pump in a location that is secluded from that would be ideal in my opinion and based on where you were pointing at your model in the video where you were talking about the lowest points, you have room to install a sump and keep it away from waste water and fluids. As for the tunnel drainage, it may collect water at too gradual of a pace for a single pump at the end of the line from being adequate. It may be better to have 3 pumps, one by the bunker, one for the garage and one in a central point of the tunnels. These are my thoughts man, I hope they can be of help and I love the project!
Hi Colin,, regarding the open rock face desires,,,,, how about completing the mild-steel walls around the total perimeter as you have been doing already (1:1 the same design) and getting the place 100% sealed,,,, then,,,,, put in a "fake" rock face inside. once the moisture within your internal rock-face has stabilized with the humidifier on (2-3 months???) , you could add some clear-coat to stop dust migration,,,,. onto the DeLorean 🙂, could also add some cool lighting,,, + secret passage back under the house?,,,,, BTW, when you dig in front of the house, assuming you will put in enough supports under the foundation,,,,,,, far more subsidence risk with the next digging stage vs the corner section you have taken out already,,,, Congrats on your channel btw,
So let me get this straight. You are allowed to dig a giant hole at the front of your house, but you are not allowed to send a small jar of dirt in the mail?
@@timbaker6239I saw devastated woman having to give up her first flower from her boyfriend when entering Australia (on TV) the customs guard explained the biohazard and then said if it had been incased in resin it would have been fine 😮 so maybe @colinfurze can incase the rock/soil in resin for export?
You can spray the wall with spray lacquer to seal it clear. Then use plexiglass to form the 'window' and pour polymer between the plexiglas and the sealed rock/ You will need to use a vacuum(not a Hoover) to pull the bubbles out. It can be done in layers. Use clear tubing to run string LED lights so they can be replaced if necessary. Fifteen to thirty centimeters should be thick enough. You could make it into a sitting window.
I wouldn't use the plexiglass as a form, (heat issues). Instead I would just create a typical removable form. After curing, remove the form and then install plexiglass.
@@alankott3129 The plexiglas is supposed to be removed after they polymer has hardened. It is a temporary form. Think of it like a form they use when using concrete.
A fun idea for the window since it is a garage, a giant windshield wiper for any moisture buildup. Might be a good idea even if you do figure out a way to keep the moisture away to clean the window. Have a way to spray wiper fluid onto the glass, then the wipers wipe and you got a clean window. Another idea is to let the moisture be, put fake plants, or even real plants, on the rocks, and have it appear to be some sort of terrarium. Or, do a test to see how much water does condense on a double walled glass and see if the moisture would be bad enough to block the view. Sometimes the best solution is the simplest and just having thick, double walled glass and letting the moisture condense on the glass is aesthetic enough that anything more complicated is unneeded.
Nah, don't worry about the condensation. Install the double insulated glass and a small wiper so you can use it as a prop in your videos. It would also be freaking awesome if you had a lit neon Colin Furze Garage sign hanging on the rock wall as the back drop behind the glass.
Also it would be a great opportunity to add a windshield sprayer too that you could 'clean' the rock wall with cleaner if you need to clean off mold/mildew/etc. Sounds like a great video!
FYI: Sump Pumps... in the USA there are restrictions on where a sump-pump is allowed to "out-flow". You cannot have it piped out to the street gutter. It should obviously be piped away from the edge of the house. So it typically must be piped to the middle of the open property so many feet away from the house and so many feet away from the street. It absolutely cannot be piped into the sewer system.
Depends what age colin's housing development is, some cities still have 'combined' sewers, where surface water can be discharged into the sewer, other newer areas have separate surface water/sewers, not aware of any restriction on discharging a sump pump into surface water drains in the uk, but then again i'm a sparky not a plumber :)
@matthewhickok4421 said "in the USA there are restrictions on where a sump-pump is allowed to "out-flow". You cannot have it piped out to the street gutter." I'm in the USA (CA) and I pump it to the street and got permission. Punched a hole through the curb right near the storm drain. In my city lots and lots of people have done the same. Walking along and ... whoosh... water appears next to you. Love it.
Colin is SO lucky with his local authority allowing retrospective planning. Many councils would have ordered it filled in and made back to original for no other reason than not being asked first, while other local authorities would nit pick and fault find simply to make the entire project not viable. Some councils do things like refuse you a dropped kerb and therefore legal access to a driveway you prior installed and refuse to account for their obnoxious decisions, so I’m pretty sure secret tunnelling would be prohibited and heavily fined by certain councils. However, jolly good show for Colin successfully pulling it off👍
Agreed. Ours can be vindictive. BUT also very weak at enforcement. A local example is a barn .. with Dormer windows ! that theoretically didn't need permission being agricultural .. High enough to become 2 story, was decreed unacceptable and instructions issued to be removed is still standing. Watch this space .. bets are in on .. Will it ever happen ?
Same here in the U.S. and fine you. Then the building planning office will blackball you on any future build plans. Was having problems when I bought my house 18 years ago until I met the buildings guy and he realized I wasn't the previous owner who built a cabin dug a well and septic with no permits until they wanted an addition that he started but health forced him to hire out and they refused without the permit. Big hassle. Freedom you know requires governmental permission.
As a town planner that is not how part-retrospective or retrospective applications work they are considered exactly the same as any other application, the issue is at that the end if it is refused it has to be taken down or filled in etc, whereas if it wasn't retrospective you wouldn't have to if it was refused. I'm not sure what you mean by nit pick, but if you have had a planning application that required amendments look at the supplementary planning guidance, national planning policy framework, national planning guidance and the local plan and you'll quickly see why and that if you'd just follow it in the first place they would not have had to ask for amendments, I understand this is a lot that is why hiring a planning consultant would solve all those issues. Dropped curbs are both planning and the highway authority we defer to their opinion as they are the highways authority. I'm sure bad decisions have been made before, but to paint everything with a broad brush and say things that are factually incorrect (understandably so it is not your job) I have to correct them.
