Don’t be mean. Sometimes there are nuggets of wisdom in the chit chat- I either fast forward or listen for nuggets. Tap twice and it goes ahead 10-20 seconds.
@@CKArts.studio6 I doesn't say Chit Chat and Secret Techniques of the Micron Prisma pen. I'm all for witty banter and insights, but do it and demo at the same time. BTW I fast-forwarded too. That's how I knew how much time it took to actually get to the meat of the video. So if you're done policing the comments...
@@grumblemarv Oh my! In all of my years- if not decades- of watching youtube and commenting no one has ever replied to me with a snippy quip. I humbly apologize if something I said seemed offensive to you.
Thanks so much, Rich! Your advice has helped me to turn a huge corner with all of my drawing tools, and has even helped my painting, too. As a fellow guitar player, I have found that a lot of concepts from music apply to art, and vice versa. Here's an anecdote that relates to the 'light pressure" topic: I had a guitar teacher that told me "You are using way more left-hand pressure on your strings than you need to, and that's causing strain." He had me hold my finger tip above the string, and lower it slowly until I was barely touching the string. Of course, when I picked the sting there was no note, just a muted thump. Then he had me increase the pressure litle by little just to the point where I was making a clear note, and no more. "That's exactly how much pressure you need!" He said. In the end, I found out exactly how much pressure was really necessary to make a clean tone - and how much was excess effort and steain. It was easier, less likely for injury, and it sounded better. That's a win/win. :) Thanks for all the great content and advice! Mike
Thank you very much for your videos. This is exactly that I was looking for all these years. It’s very rare to find someone talking about these things. Learned so much. Thank you!
I knew this video would get thumbs downs. But I also knew most people would never explain this. It's actually a great series of tips that fall into the so obvious they are often overlooked. Inking like this with this touch is excellent technique. It will give you great line quality, preserve your tools. and is gentle on.your hand and why I can draw 80 hours a week for months with no days off and no hand problems.
I have learned, over time, not to use them anymore to clean out the pencil shavings that get stuck under my fingernails (BUT THEY WORK SO WELL!). How do i fix those pens? If you answer this, I’m sorry, could you tell me in a couple sentences? I am around 8 minutes in and still don’t know anything about them that i need to know (i use them for writing)
Thanks for this. I've been using Microns for my comic and illustration work for years, but I always destroy the tips faster than the ink runs out. And no matter where I look, I couldn't find anything other than the angle to hold them at and how to fix a broken tip. Hoping I can master this pressure issue for better (life/quality) results. Cheers!
Yes! This is gold! Thx. Somehow i had split the tip of my 005 ?!? Got a new set and NOW I know how to prolong them AND get the right pressure on the paper. Gotta try to budget a Patreon, but in the meantime, thx for YT.
It really will help. The thing is. You're learning 3 things at once. A good grip for both your hand and countless hours of inking. Longevity of your pens. Perfecting the line placements into the paper where it's down and won't deteriorate when its erased.
Thank you for the video I just got a Micron 005 for zen tangle. It really helped me. I am heavy handed with pens. I think it will extend the life of my pens.
I used to work with Copic Multiliners a lot, but as time passed I've replaced them with Rotring Isographs, because of that problems of breaking the nibs. Yes they are replaceable, also the ink cartridge but my sizes of choice were 0.05 and 0.1 at that point, dotwork mostly and large pieces. So in between several weeks of dotworking on a piece I had to change at least 5 to 8 nibs for the 0.05 and a bit less for the 0.1, because they are really fragile if you use them that way. For lining however they are great, as long as you don't push the nib to hard on the paper. Wasn't using bristol, but other types of heavy papers for mixed media techniques from Canson. What I did liked about that breaking the nib part is that some of them were acting like a brush after so decided to keep them for some edge cases of texture renderings. They're good tools but I wouldn't rely on them now for my works, and use the Rotring Iso's as my primaries. The Rotring ink is also darker than the Copics and Microns, except for the artpens cartridges, which have a tint of blue or red in them and I kinda hate that. Decided to go with the Isographs because the nibs are made from metal, but they can be very tricky too and if you tend to put pressure on the pen it may scratch the paper surface. Not to mention the maintenance required for them, it's a pain in the ass and not a "plug and play" thing like the copics or microns. That thing when you mentioned regarding the level of pressure is more like creating a ditch in the paper when you tend to press and also the ink is leveled in it. Cool part about the Microns or Copics is that the nib feels somehow like they're having a rounded cap, and not like it's a block of cylinder with sharp edge(rotr. iso). The edge is a little beveled unlike the Isographs and due to that particular shape you can do feathering a lot easier with them. Still good tools but nothing compares with practice. If the hand is properly "calibrated"... oh well... you can create stuff even with a piece of stick dipped in ink. Cool video and I appreciate this technical part of using tools that not most tend to share. Subscribed, keep it up! Thank you!
exactly what I was looking for! I crimped the end of my 01 just enough the first time I used it and it completely ruined the ink flow. Good to know where I went wrong,
I have like 20 microns and I've always loved'em WOW! I mean seriously, this is exactly the kind of stuff I was looking for, and THANK YOU SO MUCH for putting this together and sharing it with us all, and for free! I found your channel, not so long ago and I'm glad I did! Thanks mate! SUBSCRIBED!
How do you get the ink to come out in the first place? I am working on fine details on 28mm miniatures and I cant even get ink to come out in brand new pens.
What about pages penciled with regular graphite? Doesn't the marker ink sit on the lead, such that when you erase the pencil art the ink wants to pick up too? At least that was my experience when I worked traditional...
big user of Copic Multiliner SP myself, and definitely frustrated with that sliding felt nib.. get especially frustrating if you draw on watercolor paper that has more of a tooth to it, so I always buy spare nibs to replace. Curious if there's a good technique to achieve that liteness of line with the quill on watercolor paper as well
The guitar technique is very interesting. I also learned that controlled light handedness leads to technical mastery in music! I brought those same principles to art years later. Especially with graphite shading it almost feels like strumming a chord and shading a page are the same skill.
Been looking for ages for a way to save my inking efforts from fading. The irony is I press too hard with pencil, when I wasn't pressing hard enough with inks! Thanks.
WOW. Brings back memories! Not all good, either. ;) Some of my first pro inking (and uncredited) was doing backgrounds (read: inorganic subjects) for Robotech, which of course included the mechs themselves. Keith S. Wilson did the main inks of human characters and bigger foreground things. This was either before Microns and permanent markers, or I simply didn't know about them, but I was always up on the latest trends, the way I am now with digital tools. I did most of the inks with that very Gray-banded #0 Rapidograph you showed, pretty much my workhorse, go-to tool for technical inking. It worked great with all my templates and French curves, and I used it for the "how-to" and "features" drawings I did commercially back then. These are some very good tips, Rich! Good stuff for traditional inkers.
i doubt if anyone will see this comment but here goes: i bought a box of 5 micron pens for about 7 bucks on amazon but after about only 2 months or so if medium usage they seem to have stopped writing properly like how a felt pen with low ink writes( scratchy and light) i've opened the bottom and looked at the ink and like expected it's full Does anyone have any solutions? (They are real btw)
Could be full of dried ink, or the tips got dried out or clogged. Sacrifice one pen, cut it open to see. Or, like we used to do with regular oens thar stopped writing, wave the tip over a flame. Or, try a hair dryer on the tip.
Oh my word. This video could easily have been 75% shorter. To really master your video production and light it up try taking applying some of your guitar techniques. Like figure out what your going to say first, then edit, practice, edit more, practice, edit again, rehearse in front of someone. You wouldn't just grab your guitar go up on stage and wing it.
You have absolutely right about that when i was start drawing systematically before 5 years i was having very hand with pencil with pen with everything, but with exercise this problem is non existent, thanks for sharing, its means a lot.
Im trying to find a pen to do smooth outlines for my tattoo designs a tattoo artist told me to use micron pens but i dont like then. I cant seem to do a perfect outline without messing it up.
I never liked the ink in the Microns. It's a little tacky/sticky when it dries and it winds up 'catching' my hand as it scoots across the paper. Not a problem working digitally. LOL---- Now, can you help me with my tremolo picking, because mine sucks!
@@RichardFriendartist -- Well, 25 years ago, I didn't... Started teaching myself about 12 years ago or so when I dropped out of comics for a while. My rhythm playing is 'ok' and I know the blues scale---so as long as you don't want lightning fast technique, I can get along. I'm good around a campfire---or maybe it was just the beer...
It's hilarious to see all the comments complaining about how "the video doesn't start fast enough!" and throwing around unwitty quips and unnecessary ad hominems. Dudes, instead of ranting needlessly, just use the preview in the progress scrubber and skip to where he clearly starts drawing. It's really not a big deal, especially given you paid zero dollars to watch this video. If you want a highly-optimized inking course, go buy some videos from Gnomon or something. Alternatively, you could just listen for the meager 5-6 minutes he spends talking, because it's a story about his industry experience and it's honestly pretty interesting. What are you going to do otherwise? I'll tell you what you're going to do. You're probably going to go waste time on Twitter or other videos on RU-vid. Because honestly? If you're spending your time ranting on RU-vid videos, then I seriously doubt you're spending it drawing and grinding and upping your game.
Here, I'll save you 14 minutes of wasted time. Start by marking with no pressure, just the weight of the pen itself, then very gently increase pressure just enough to ensure a solid line. Don't press so hard that you crush the tip. Got it? OK, Good luck! Please spend the 13.5 minutes I saved you to spread joy in the world. Thanks!
You should have your material ready for a video production. It is a waste of time waiting until you find something in your drawer to continue your explanation. Also too much talking and little action. What you are intending to teach seems interesting but a messy video kills the attention of the viewer
my channel at this time was mainly for fans of my work (and a very small subscriber base) who knew the artists etc I worked with (and referenced) and might be interested in how the tool came into my workflow. thanks for the feedback.