Full length motorcycle tire change. In this video I talk you through a real-time tire change for one of my bikes I am doing service on. Join me as I swap a tubeless Pirelli STR to a Heidenu K60 Ranger on the front of my Ducati DesertX
If you use both spoons when remounting the tire you don't have to use your knees to hold the tire in place. The tension by leaving one spoon wedged keeps the tire in the center of the rim. The other thing is to put the wheel on top of a bucket so you can't put weight on a rotor. Change the rear with the rotor facing up. Knees on the tire is a very common thing to do, but it's honestly not needed at all if you use a good set of spoons correctly. Changed my own tires since the 90s. I'm still using the same set of spoons. lol
Bead breaker/tire changer and actual bead lubricant with a brush make it so much easier. Not sure why more riders don’t just buy bead lube for the home garage. It’s $13 for a gallon that’ll last forever. It stays wet for the perfect amount of time and and doesn’t leave any slick film once dried. Way better than trying to do it with other lubricants.
I just use silicone grease, not cheap but you don't use much of it, and the silicone conditions the rubber so it won't dry out, and just of little of it stays behind so removing the tire in the future is much easier.
Thank you, thank you, thank you! I consider myself fairly well skilled in maintaining my motorcycles but keeping the tire slippery while I mount was always an issue in bone dry Arizona. I just mounted a new tire on my Goldwing and using WD40, it went right on and seated easily. You saved me lots of frustration and kept money in my pocket and out of the swear jar. God bless
Thanks Bret! I had to flip the front tire on my 890 this morning. Based on past experiences with tubed dirt bike tires I was dreading it. Your tutorial helped a great deal! I was done in no time, and the process was absolutely drama free!
I think that the most important thing you should impress on newbies (I have made this mistake and seen many others too) is to make sure (as per your socket trick) that the “knee side” is in the low point. If not told, most people will just use more force and more swear words.
Bought the same spoons, took my courage and mounted successfully a Trailmax raid on my front rim (R1250GS). Your video, patience and technique did the job. Thank you very much!
I did my first tire change few weeks ago. And man, I struggled. You make it look so easy, on Heidenaus even! 😅 Now I'm looking forward to my next tire change and I will certainly follow your instructions then. Only 14 minutes (with talking) and not a drop of sweat... I'll get there!
I wish you did this video 2 years ago when I tried to change the tire on my own for the first time. After many trials and errors, pain and blood I agree that WD-40 is the best way to go. Works way better than soap. :)
I have been working on bikes for 34yrs and owned over 110 bikes at one point (school bikes and rentals). I have tried every trick I have heard and this is the easiest process I know. I often even skipped the machine when I had one.
I’ve changed a whole lot of tires in my time and yet I still picked up some valuable tips. Like the way you use WD-40 and the way you removed the second bead looks brilliant! Can’t wait to try it myself. Thanks again, Bret!
Success! I changed my GS-1200 front tire using this method. With new confidence I'm ready to change the rear tire. Saves big $$ and time doing it yourself rather than going to the shop. I'm 74 years old and can still change a tire! Whoop Whoop! BTW: The socket trick is just awesome.....
I was fighting the last section of the second side of a new tire. It didn't look like It would go on. I came upstairs for a break and watched the second half of your video. Your tip about the sockets got me going again. I was constantly pushing the bead down on the top of the tire, but it wasn't going. Raising the bead on the bottom side did the trick. Now I've got a tip for you. If you're using spare sockets, cut about 1 1/2 feet of strong cord for each socket and tie it in a loop through the socket. This will give you a handy tail to pull out the sockets when you're done.
Idk, I’ve always favoured starting opposite & FINISHING at the valve stem because internal tpms sensors &/or tube stems can impede the tire from dropping into the centre of the rim to help make that last bite easier.
Have done al lot of tires but after fighting the front tyre of an old bmw r1150rt for half an hour, I decided to consult your video. Taking the tyre off was easy as well as putting it almost back on. Your advice to use sockets made the difference between a possible and impossible job. I realized the tyre needed extra space to make the last jump and the sockets ( use small ones!!) made the last part easy as well. Many thanks from Holland!
Obviously the main aim is don't catch the tude with the tyre levers. But apart from that it's no different really. I've only had one bike without tubes and I sold it before I ever had to change tyres.
Just changed my dr650 rear tire for a dunlop d606 which i was told is difficult to mount. With your instructions and tips it went VERY well. Many thanks for sharing Bret! Cheers
THIS! Watched many videos and just changed my first moto tire with no drama following your video. The tire was the notoriously hard Tusk D Sport on the rear of my Honda Rally and you method was ace! Try to leave your new tire in the sun to warm it up if possible, take SMALL bites and the WD-40 was key and IT did evaporate with no issues. I am now confident to ride solo in the back country knowing I can fix a flat if it arises. Thank you for your excellent instruction.
Thank you Bret. I was very wary of using WD-40 on the tyres as there is much controversy around the subject, but in the end I decided that I would take your advice because I just couldn't get the bead to seal. WD-40 all round, some bouncing of the tyre and I was able to get the bead to seal so I could procede to seat the bead, balance the wheel etc. I look forward to my next wheel change so I can follow the rest of your advice.
at 5:36....my humble suggestion to avoid scratching your rim with levers is to lever off the tyre on both sides of the wheel so the wheel is 'inside' the tyre. Then stand the wheel vertical between your thighs. The rim will then sit inside the tyre, at the bottom, revealing a massive gap at the top near your thighs....Just pull the rim out, a chosen side, by hand and assist by kneeling on the top of the tyre and pushing the tyre downwards at the same time.....Works for 17 inch rears and 21 fronts...(XT660Z Tenere).....and lube is always your friend..
I've changed a lot of motorcycle tires and enjoyed watching you work and demonstrate that when the technique is good nobody has to break a sweat. One tip I have is to bounce the tire 3 or 4 times to the floor while rotating impact positiion (in the vertical position of course) to set the bead. Some tire rim combinations can be stubborn and the air fill will not set the heel in the bead on a tubeless tire. Some pros use Bead Blasters but I have found my method to be reliable.
Good video. Enjoyed the trick with the sockets. Your point about this being about technique and not force is very valid, keeping the tyre in the well of the rims being one of the most important things. I'm spoilt, as having worked with tyres for years I always have access to a tyre changing machine. Now ummm, you just have to do it again so the rotation of the tyre is actually the right way around - don't worry, we've all done it! 😅
I use 2 buckets(1 inside the other) and a old car rim on top of the bucket . I put some gorilla tape around the car rim so it won't scratch cast mc wheel. The car rim, in my case an old jeep wrangler oem rim is wide enough on the inside to accommodate the rotor of the mc wheel. Wood clamp work well to break the bead.
thanks i thought you was just trying to make it look easy but after following your way iv just don two brand new timers big big thanks for taking your time doing this video
I've changed a lot of tires. I've never thought of using the sockets like you did. Great trick! Thanks for sharing. I bet I'll need lots of tricks when I decide to install Dunlop Trailmax Missions on my GS...
This is again a great video that gives people a good look at what to do and how to avoid struggling. One question: When you use WD-40, aren't you worried the tire will slip on the rim under heavy braking? I am a automotive technician and have seen some colleagues use it on stubborn tires. Sometimes, they get away with it. But I have witnessed a tire come off the rim when driving out the garage. To wrap this up, a tip I have learned myself: A right side wheel always rotates right (clockwise) and a left side wheel always rotates left. (counter clockwise) Same goes for which side the rim is facing you. Also, face away when you seat the beads! Some dirt or sand may fly in your eye when it pops. You wouldn't be the first...
You will never be able to change your RT's tyres using this method, not in a million years. You will struggle and f**k up your RT's rims in the process. Having given up you will take your bike or it's wheels to the local bike shop admitting defeat. Been there done that. Get yourself a proper tyre changer. I did. Changing tyres literally takes a few minutes now, no struggling, no damaged rims from tyre irons. Repainting damaged rims is expensive. Spend the money on a decent tyre changer instead.
Thanks for the vid but especially for explaining how and why to use sockets. I've seen them in other vids but you explained why and how to use them. Thx
When putting a tire back on the rim, I have found that the Baja no pinch Tire Tool is the best and easiest way to remount the tire. As far as converting tube type rims to tubeless, most rear rims do have the raised bead retention, but the front rims do not. And if you are working with tubes, the best way I have found is to pump a little air into the tube and then put the tube in the tire, and then pull the portion with the valve stem out of the tire a little bit so that you can insert it into the hole in the rim and then you can go ahead and start mounting the tire, this way you're not having to use a fishing wire which can be a royal pain in the ass
When you say use soap or WD40, I want to emphasise, tyre soap, not ordinary soap or washing up (detergent) soap as this will rot the tyre and inner tube. Great tip about the WD40, great vid, thank you!
Thanks Brett, the WD 40 is a gamechanger. I used to use Windex before, but the WD 40 is so much better. Having to remove both the tires on my, new to me, 2016 FJR1300. Both wheels need the balance beads removed and rebalanced with weights. The bike has a high-speed vibration after the previous owner was talked into balance beads by the dealer when he bought new tires. 🙈
Thank you for showing your technique! I’m hoping you’ll consider a future video of a rear tire change of a wheel with a TPMS as I believe many modern machines run those. You do great work!
Good video and I love seeing guys like you and Birch change tires by hand and without some well-marketed $600+ changing machines (which you don’t have trailside). One thing I struggle with every time on my 1090 is being able to get the sidewalls to seat the bead enough to hold air. I always have to use a ratchet strap. And even then it’s so much of a struggle I’m tempted to just fit tubes. This is my first tubeless bike and I’m just not sold on it.
Use more lube to seat the bead. Silicon spray works better than WD40. Dish soap mixed 1part with 6 parts water works great plus for trailside it makes for clean hands. I carry it in an old 1/2 liter water bottle.
As a ypung kid, I was sire that Fad spraued my pushbike with WD40 before storing it in a shed while we traveled for a year. Tyre walls blew out when we re-inflated them on returning. Kept the stuff away from rubber ever since!
great video ! thank you ! Didn´t expect, that I can use WD40 as well, and the sockets! .. and the Heidenau K60 Ranger is on my Husky701 as well... good choice :-) quite stiff... but it looks very easy, how you changed it. wish you happy and safe riding ! cheers from Germany
Be very careful to NOT damage the ABS ring when working on tires. I recently changed the tires on my bike and put a small dent in mine and it cause some scary issues with the ABS system activating on its own.
Good stuff as usual. Question. Why start at valve ? If a TPS is installed it will prevent you from dropping it into the trough. If you start at the opposite side from stem the bead can drop into trough without anything in the way. Or am I missing something here ?? Thanks
@@onemileattatime2642 Get an Olmax tyre changer instead. Much better and cheaper. Very high build quality and very very robust. Will still be going strong in 1000 years.
The trick to avoiding the sweat is to be a teenager, who is fit and agile. As I've got older, I sweat a lot, and 99% of my energy is spent holding my own body weight when leaned over. Don't get over weight, stay off the wrong foods and never get old, just be a teenager forever! Only if...
I would recommend a threaded wire inner tube "fish" if you are trying to insert the valve stem into the rim hole, especially if it's a thick heavy duty tube. Insert the end of the wire fish through the valve hole of the rim and screw the end of the wire fish into the inside of the inner tube valve stem (core removed). Then pull on the wire fish and the valve stem will follow into the rim hole.
A yellow dot is the lightest spot on a tire. The red dot is the flattest spot on a tire. Some wheels have markings indicating the high spot, so that is where the red dot should be in line with.
Would like to see you do a rear adventure tyre as there must be a trick to getting the beed off to replace the tube….. I had a crack with the gear I carry on my bike and failed
I started using wd40 for tyre lube, about ten years ago...Reason being - the soap, "or whatever it was" that was being used for tyre lube by my dealer, was corroding my rims, what a mess....I change all my own tyres now, as well as friends..... I've also used ArmourAll, which works well, bit pricey..... Can't wait to try the socket method....
Love the socket idea. All seems like great logic to me. Interesting about the WD-40. So many conflicting views out there with the effect of it on rubber. So is it safe to clean O & X-ring chains with WD-40 ?
Instead of sockets I have been using small blocks of wood to keep the bead in the rim center hollow. There have been times trying to remove a Motoz brand that after I break the bead I Zip disk cut the bead cable and boom the tire just falls off the rim then
my only concern with wd-40 is that it wouldn't dry off like other lubes leading to the tire slipping on the rim. this is a good video for the technique of tire changes people definitely need to practice this at home a few times before getting stranded on the trail. your first couple of tire changes will have you cursing!!! also use your trail tools to do it so you can see what tools you need for certain. thanks bret for the friendly informative video you do great work
I've used WD40 for years on all my tire changes from a 2 stroke 125 to a tubeless 1290, works wonderful. Also easy to carry a small can for the road/trail. Thanks Bret for doing this using only the MP bead breaking tool as your only bead breaker/tire spoon.
I'd love to see someone do this easily with a Dunlop Trailmax Mission (TMM) tire on the rear wheel of a CB500X. I gave up in frustration after tearing the bead a bit, took it to the local shop, and the guy struggled with it for 40 minutes on his machine before finally getting the tire mounted. He told me to never buy those tires again, they just don't work for my bike. Short version, some tires are far easier than others. Having said that, this looks like a good method. I used 1" wood blocks to keep the tire away from the rim, I used Windex as a lubricant, the same tire irons you're using, and otherwise a similar technique. I did manage to get the front TMM mounted, the rear was impossible.
The Heidenu K60 is well known for being a difficult tire as is the Dunlop Trailmax. I had intended to video the rear as well hoping it would be more challenging (and it was) but time didn't allow it. I have changed 7 sets of Dunlop Missions now and they are never fun but all of them go on and come off with patience and technique
@@BretTkacs On a rear wheel of a CB500X? If so, you have worked a miracle! I'm not ever going to try that again, but I will try a different tire next time around as the TMMs are pretty heavy. Having said that, I suspect that if one of my TMMs got a puncture that I couldn't repair with a plug, I could limp back to a repair shop just because the sidewalls are so stiff, which is a definite plus. For a more powerful bike, I wouldn't hesitate to buy TMMs as they are an excellent 60/40 tire IMHO.
Hey Brett, Love your videos. Question/hypothetical: Say I’m out in the woods, alone on bike, rip tire (2-3” rip). I can remove tire, put “external” patch on inside of tire (will it stick?; feels like silicone in there), but my tiny electric pump won’t deliver enough air to push out the sidewalls and hold air. So I can’t inflate tire. Now I’m wishing I had a tube to put in there. Is it safe to use a tube on a tubeless tire? Is it safe enough to get me home (on the highway)? Are there better options? I’ve learned a lot from watching you. Probably kept me out of a lot of trouble. Thanks. David A.
Won't WD40 contribute to the tire spinning on the rim and tearing the tube apart (on a tubed setup) or will rim-locks solve this? Or don't use WD40 on tubed setups?
I've used WD40 changing removing/mounting most tires for years from a tubed 125 cc to tubeless 1190. The smaller bike did have rim locks, but the +690 cc did not have rim locks and haven't had any tire slippage problems. Granted most of the big bikes I'm running 25+ psi vs 6-12 psi for the small dirt bikes. No problem on 890 and 1190 running tubes without rim locks at 25+ psi.
What he forgot to do after filling air into tire is to spray windex or soapy water around the tire bead and valve checking for leaks. Nothing like getting the wheel back on the bike and finding a slow leak three days later.
I've never got my head around this - when levering the second bead down over the rim (at 9.01 mins), why do you spray lube on the OUTSIDE / upper side of the tyre??? What does that achieve? So many videos show this method and yet it seems to me that you'd need the lube on the INSIDE edge of the tyre to help ease the edge of the tyre down and over the rim. The way it is shown, the underneath of the tyre bead is dry, surely? I spray underneath instead and can usually push the second bead over the rim by hand until the last 1/3rd of the tyre. Love the socket hack though :)
I challenge you to repair a flat in 48 degrees heat on a rough gravel road. Even getting your fingers into the tyre to position the tube valve stem is a challenge. Also to break a bead on a tyre that has numerous river crossing and high milage is another story. Your tyre levers have no chance under these conditions.
48c? I have changed tires like this in both Africa and South America without issue. Not at 48c cuz who wants to do that but at 35c... No problem. Also rough roads and river crossings make no difference when it's time to swap tires
I was just with my tire guy, and he was suffering changing my gs tires to put new missions on, and I say to him" is a crazy guy (you) that changes tires in a parking lot! And he was looking at me like "sureeeee"
I don't understand why a guy who would buy a $1000+ motorcycle lift to make working on bikes easer, would not also build or buy a changing stand to make it so much easier. Even 30 year old me (50 now) didnt like crawling around on the floor, kneeling is hard on knees...
Nice might instead of just spraying small spot with wd just light spray around the entire circumference of rim crack and could possibly save a couple minute respraying ¿
This worked on the front, but needed my no-mar tire changer for the rear. Scratched the shit outta the rims though. My tires were so much stiffer than yours. Maybe temperature difference? Either way, it no worky.
Agree. Use this method with tyres irons if you want to f**k up your bikes's wheel rims putting scratches and gouges in them. Getting them refurbed and repainted will cost a fortune, money which you could have spent on a quality tyre changer such as an Olmax tire changer.
Hey great trick with the sockets I've changed many tires and used all kinds of other tricks but the socket one is great especially for on the side of the road or someplace where you have limited tools thanks for that tip I'll use it for sure!
Evening Bret, have you heard or worked with the Desert Fox Easy Tyre on Tool (mounting tyre back without the risk to pich the tube) Would you suggest such item perhaps to carry with you or is the Beadbreaker Pro efficient enough not to pinch the tube (especially the last part when it starts getting difficult to mount the tyre where it is known to pich tubes). Thanks
You were mentioning that when you convert tube to tubeless rim, then it will not hold air when it is flat. Can you confirm that one alone please. Am planning to make my bike from tube to tubeless. If you think it is not worth for long term benefit then I will not do it.
I always carry a amall 12v compressor. I also carry a 21" tubr I can slip in in case the tire isn't repairable are I end up with a seating issue. Luckily a full tire removal on the trail is normally for tubed tires, but not always.
