I have some recommendations if I may be so bold. Tramex moisture meter before your grind and after. We use Penntek products and our moisture readings must be below 5.5% before applying product. Expensive but save one redo it’s paid for. Grind the outside edge first. Hand grinding is the least consistent grind and doing it first then the big grinder over that as close to the wall as possible gives a smoother surface. Get a weed torch at Home Depot. We hook it up to our propane tanks from the propane grinder when we have moisture to high or in outer cracks. The mender will fail and lift up sometimes if it too wet in the cracks. Won’t get good adhesion. Sorry so much but we have been doing this a while and these things make a difference. Hope it helps
Oh and acetone will help evaporate water so we also pour it over cracks that or too wet or when something is too close to use a torch. It’s actually our first go to then the torch. We run into moisture a lot here in Louisiana
It's a night an day difference lol, glad you enjoyed, you can also run your grinder up against the walls first so that you will only have like less than an inch to grind on the edges as well, I'll be making an advanced video here soon enough too
Great to see you doing the grind re-surfacing method...a little more work...but the only way to go. The acid etching prep being pushed by companies like Rustoleum is a scam. Since the 1980's virtually every suburban home built by contractors is sealed. Acid etching doesn't work on sealed concrete floors. No pores, no bond. They even say it on their bottles, but in small print and don't tell you that it's almost certain your garage is sealed. They are afraid if customers knew they needed to rent a diamond grinder, set up a dust system, and then do the actual grinding, they would be much less likely to buy their product. I see so many RU-vid DIY videos of acid wash etching....and they are doing it on a sealed concrete floor and don't even know it. Crazy.
I almost wonder if it is intentional so that they can keep having people buy more products over time or just that it's "easier" for the home owner than to have to do the work necessary lol, thank you for the comment and awesome to see another person taking the actual time to prep the floor right!
@@CoatingCohortYes, it’s intentional to sell more product. They know that most homeowners would be too intimidated to use a grinder on their floor and would never purchase their product.
Hello, My question to you is can I start up my business with just my 2 angle grinders (one 7” and 4”)? I know that its a lot of intense labor but it’s what I have to get started. I also have a shop vac for cleaning up dust. Also what do you think is the best epoxy/floor covering to get for beginners
Most people dont appreciate the importance of the termination point with epoxy. I was starting to think i was the only one trenching for cut offs under the door
It looks great, keeps the consistency of the concrete when the garage door is closed and also helps with any of the yellowing that can occur with epoxy over time, a win win win we believe lol
@@CoatingCohort I use poly eurea as a base usually and aspartic for top coat. Done probably 500 garages and about a dozen shops that were over 3000 Sq ft without a hint of ambering. Even did a bob cat dealership and that floor still looks new too! Incredible flooring systems, very under rated
I have a shot blaster. My only issue was being so dam small the beads some stayed behind and became visible on the primer. So i need to keep a close eye on that. But would you say a shot blaster is faster? I cant really tell with it being sped up
If you have something like a blasterac you can probably move 400sqft an hour, that will give you a higher CSP which would help with the coating sticking more, but could lead to corn-rowing on the floor, we can grind about 600sqft an hour with our 25inch Sase machine for reference Extensive vacuuming like I was showing at the end can help, maybe even going over it another time to finish OR finish your pass with a grinder to help with any of the left over shot, hope this helps!
Shot blasting has its advantages but the corn rows or wind rows can be annoying if you aren't good with it. I can do a out 1000sq feet in an hour with our shot blaster and you can get larger shot for yours if it's too small. The advantages is the shot blasting profiles with minimum removal and is completely dust free even inside the pores of the concrete the dust is just not there at all. At the end of the day it's like comparing a nice chainsaw (grinding) to a slightly nicer chainsaw (shotblasting) and we use blastrac
Thank you for showing and old dirty oil stained floor. This is what you will usually see so staging a clean brand new slab for a prep video is misleading
@@CoatingCohort exactly! I've had multiple jobs that used a full 2 gallon Crack repair kit and I mix mine with sand for volume and abrasive purposes 🤣 Tbh I was hoping you were going to do the stub walls too. I developed my own install procedure for vertical surfaces and wanted to compare lol
